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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • Sounds like it is leaking from the the little brass fitting/actuator I mentioned above? If so, you shouldn't need to replace the whole throttle body; the actuator can be removed and the o-ring replaced. (I didn't do mine personally, my mechanic did while he was fixing the broken exhaust studs last winter). It was less than one hour of labor and a few bucks for the o-ring(s).
  • I have exact same problem with 96 Quest with 130k mi. Just replaced thermostat and flushed radiator at Midas. Also, I had a new waterpump put in last year as part of regular maintenance. Didn't make any difference. I am leary about replacing heater core due to cost but don't know what else to do. On road trips, it pours out heat. Back heater not working though.
  • I'm headed into the second winter with the problem of intermittent heat in my '98 Quest, with 133K. It cycles on and off; just when it starts getting really chilly, it comes back on. I also have a '94 Quest with 187K miles on it; the "old" one has not had this problem. (There are electronic gremlins recently inhabiting the radio/casette player, however.)
  • Went to replace the speed sensor on our 99 Villager and the sensor is seized in the housing . Top of the sensor is now broken off . I have tried everything I can think of . Thinking of making some kind of a puller . I have even tried a screw in the middle and trying to wedge it out . Would appreciate any help. :cry:
  • Fixed the van made a puller out of a piece of 1/4" flat bar . it was the only way to go , took out the sender easily. :)
  • When I am accelerating the car when driving, it misfires. the engine is works hard to pick up speed and i can hear the misfiring. But when I accelerate from zero (stop), it works fine. I got the tuning done but observed very little improvement. Any suggestions?
  • I have a 1997 Nissan Quest with 103,000 miles on it and have been struggling with a problem for 3 years and about $200 later for having dealers use their gas sniffer around it finding no problems. In cold weather when I start the car up and move down the road I start smelling a very strong odor of gasoline in the passenger compartment. The smell is so bad I have to roll the windows down. When the problem happens it is about 30 degrees or less outside. Dealer now thinks I may have an injector sticking but does not know for sure. Any thoughts or suggestions on what it might be?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Here's a great tip; are you out there to take credit for it Mozey?

    mozeydozey, "Forums Discussion Finder: Get Directions Here" #5231, 23 Nov 2005 5:38 pm

    Steve, Host
  • Have you tried flushing the cooling system out ? Also replace the thermostat.
  • Maybe your front brake calipers are dragging ? If you jack the front end up are the front tires hard to turn? If they are replace the calipers . :)
  • I have a 2000 Quest and recently the front blower switch only works on level 4, tested the switch but that was not the problem. Any know what causes this?
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282

    I've had the same thing happen on our Quest twice now. It's an easy repair, it's the blower motor resistor. It's located under the dash on the passenger side, secured by a couple of hex head screws. The part is about $20 US I think, takes just a few minutes to replace if you are into that kind of thing.

  • Probably not the switch. Most likely is the resistor for the blower motor. If you look under the passenger dash the blower is to the far right and the resistor is a small box with wires plugged into it just to the left. The resistor is a dealer only item. For a 2000 model it cost about $34 at the Ford dealer. Remove 2 screws, unplug wires, put in new one tighten 2 screws and plug wires back in. Took about 10 minutes working in the dark and works great.
  • I have a 1995 Mercury Villager with 126,000 and have had similar issue with the strong gas smell when the vehicle is first operated in cold temps. I will not yet commit to a full fix, but for the last week we have had no gas smell. I added a second clamp to the connection of the rubber fuel lines where it connects to the metal lines on the end of the fuel rails. I also had been plagued with an intermittent check engine light since June of this year, which finally became an always on issue about a month ago. Code said egr solenoid/circuit fault, then about 2 weeks ago added code knock sensor defective. After changing vacuum lines with no change and egr solenoid checking good per tests, I felt that the amount of vacuum at the source/port on the bottom of the throttle body may be a bit weak. I cleaned the port and interior of the throttle body with carb. cleaner, cleared the codes once again, only this time they have not yet returned. I hope this helps you and others out there which may have been battling similar problems.
  • cam6cam6 Posts: 1
    If the you get the smell from the front vents, you can check the rubber fuel lines that connect to the fuel rails,the rails themselves and the injectors (maybe a seals). There are two lines, one on the driver side from the fuel tank to the fuel rail, the one on the other side connects the front and rear fuel rails. These areas can leak ever so slightly and allow vapors to build up in the engine compartment causing the smell. Turn the car on and look for drops of gas at the connections across the rails and around the injectors.
  • I have a 99 Villager . The tach no longer works . I checked the wires going to the dist. they looked fine. Thats about as far as I've gone . I talked to the dealer and they say it's probably the tach itself . Has anybody tackled one of these ?I would appreciate any help.
  • I Have 1995 villager,the ET switch do not work how do i fix the problume?
  • did you ever figure this out? i have the same problem with my 99 villager with 120k miles. it is very annoying!
  • did you figure this out?
  • I had to replace all the rubber fuel line in the engine compartment to get rid of the fuel smell/leak. I believe there are 3 sections past the fuel filter. One on each side of the engine (passenger side is a real pain) and the rubber line going from the filter to the fuel rail. I recommend just replacing all of those. I originally replaced just the hose clamps. That worked for a year but then the hoses started to get cracked and would slowly leak under pressure when it got cold. The colder it got, the worse it was becasue rubber expands as it gets cold. Be sure to use High Pressure fuel line or else it will blow a hole. Also, if you are having this problem with the rubber fuel line, look at replacing the rubber cooling hoses as well. Rubber does not last forever. My cooling hoses went first. Replace both of those as well. I done one and had to do the second within four months. Dusty
  • Go to this site and follow links to "No Heat in Heater"
  • marku1marku1 Posts: 11
    Appreciate your entries. I have read several references in the forum about trouble with exhaust studs but no details. I have an exhaust leak that I just cannot locate, so I am thinking manifold gasket or broken stud. Can you tell me about this issue or point me in the right direction (i.e. how to ident., degree of difficulty, helpul hints, approx. cost, etc.) Also, if this is the problem could it also be the reason for the engines impaired performance?
    Thanks, Mark
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Hi Mark,

    Check out the first thread in All About Exhaust Systems.

    Any wrench turners, please jump in!

    Steve, Host
  • Appears that the problem was low coolant level. Check - top off the fluid at the radiator cap. Unscrew cap and add fluid til it overflows. Make sure you are putting fluid directly into the radiator and not into the overflow tank. You might also want to release any trapped air by "burping" the upper radiator hose, ie, loosen the clamp and pull the hose off just enough to allow any air trapped in the system to get out. I've now got plenty of heat at low and high speeds, plus the engine is running a little cooler too. I found this was the problem when I replaced the lower radiator hose. Apparently the shop did not put enough fluid back in when timing belt and water pump was replaced. fd
  • Just had this happen on my 95 Sentra. Parts guy at the dealer said it a frequently replaced part. $20 from the dealer and easy to replace on the Sentra.

  • try replacing the resistor located near the blower motor
  • I replaced front and rear controls..The fan and all fuses and the resistor..Still nothing..HELP..
  • 95 Villager is missing at idle and while cruising at highway speeds. Problem is erratic and does not start until its been driven at least 10 - 15 miles. Code reads #32 and #34, knock sensor and EGR control solenoid. WHen you stomp the pedal the engine catches and takes off then the miss comes back when you settle down to cruising speed. Prior to this problem I was getting the knock sensor code but engine ran fine. Car has 160K miles.
    EGR control solenoid checked out perfectly according to procedure in Haynes manual. Hose from EGR to Back pressure transducer was completely destroyed (looked like it partially melted) so replaced that. I don't have a vacumn gauge to check transducer pressure and dealer wants $144 for a new one. Anyone have any ideas - could it be a faulty backpressure transducer? Bad egr? something else? thanks, Frank
  • Our 95 Quest, 130K, also with gas smell and uneven heat, so this thread a help for guiding the troubleshooting. ANOTHER ISSUE: Check engine light is on intermittently, a mechanic friend told us to check the code(s). Went to Autozone and they could find no hookup for the OBD I&II. Is Quest 95 equipped for this, if so, where is the plugin located?
    If not equipped to read OBD externally, how do we determine the code(s)?
  • My radio is completely dead, and I'm considering an aftermarket replacement. Has anyone done this with a Quest/Villager? Mine is the top-line radio with steering-wheel and rear seat controls/headphone jacks, subwoofer, CD Changer, etc. I know I will lose the steering wheel and rear controls, but I wonder if it is possible to control the CD changer with an aftermarket head unit? Also, will an aftermarket wiring kit hook up the speakers & sub properly? Any advice? Thanks
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