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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • My check engine light stays on and I have replaced motor mounts 3X in this van, also, my timing belt just broke, not sure if the engine is FRIED or not, mechanic says he won't know until he replaces the timing belt which is 59.95 and labor is 300.00...grrrr :sick:
  • I just checked the NHTSA website for recalls and see that these models were recalled for a defective fuel vent hose in 2001. Anyone know if this takes care of the fuel smell in passenger compartment? I have it too. FD
  • Hi Revka,
    Where exactly the wiper switch is located? I have a 1998 nissan Quest and the wiper does not work. I checked the fuses and they are fine. I suspect the wiper switch/replay is bad. But I could not find it. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • Hey tony28, I know this is a old issue for you but I had same exact prob in 97 villager. After about 3 days of tracing a ground where there should not be one, found that the wire underneath drivers seat going to rear o2 sensor was some how a ground to power in turn blowing the fuse everytime you turn the key to on position. To easy though, just cut wire underneath carpet, spliced in good one and good to go.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    The fuel smell you are experiencing may be from aging fuel lines under the hood. Particularly on 95 models, the material used in the hoses does not hold up well over time.

    Owners have reported making the smell go away by tightening the clamps attaching the fuel lines to the fuel rail of the engine, or by replacing them. Some of them are hard to get at.

    This might give you or your mechanic a place to start. Hope this helps.

  • glow1glow1 Posts: 3
    Had vent hose replaced by dealer after seeing recall on a website. Had some fuel smell before, and after replacement it was fine. Has lasted about 4 years with no problems.
  • glow1glow1 Posts: 3
    The back cargo door of my 1993 villager will not open . It was working fine for many years and now stays shut. A friend of mine had the same problem which he solved by forcing it open, but now it does not close properly. The only other symptom involves the "door open" light flickering intermittently but that was when the door would still open. I figured the door was just out of rig or the sensor was defective. When the door seized shut the light stayed off and was not flickering as it had done previously. Is there some electromechanical interlock on the door? Any help would be appreciated.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    Our '93 Villager never had a problem with the door sticking shut, but we did have a flickering light once. It was solved by adjusting the latch mechanism, which was holding the door shut, but not as tight enough for the indicator switch to de-activate.
  • mottsmotts Posts: 9
    Hey Kevin, I have 94 Quest. The rear heat stopped working and I have also replaced the front master switch,the rear fan switch and nothing yet. If I find my problem I'll get back to you, Motts
  • I had the same problem with my 1995 Nissan Quest. Have taken it to three shops. The first two did not fix it. The last one charged me $158 for labor when they replaced the fuel line between two fuel rails (near the passenger side under the hood). If anyone of you had the same replacement done by a mechanic, how much did you pay? Does $158 sound reasonable for the job? Thanks.
  • hay man iv got a 200zx wit avg 20 in it would u b able 2 help me out wit a wire and turbo pipeine diagram
  • sjs58sjs58 Posts: 3
    I'm a little stumped on what OBDI code reader will work with my wife's 95 Villager. Should it be the Ford or Nissan reader? The local auto parts guy says it's the Ford reader, but I'm doubtful that it would hook up. Looks to me that the data plug is by the fusebox while he says it's under the hood like my wife's old Ford Tempo. Which of course can't be found.

    Thanks in advance.
  • thanx motts as soon as I get it fixed we r trading it away..With this rear blower motor not working it depreciates the value by 1500.00..
  • I have a 99 Nissan Quest (automatic) which has been pretty much a driveway ornament for the past few weeks as I cannot get the key to turn in the ignition. The key goes in and out of the ignition cylinder just fine - it just won't turn. Car is parked on flat driveway with no obstructions or potholes causing interference with wheels. I have tried the following:

    1) removing the key from the key chain. (working on the heavy key chain theory) RESULT=nada

    2) jiggling the key and turning the steering wheel as I tried to turn the key in the ignition. RESULT=worse than nada; all this did was lock the steering wheel, and now I cannot unlock it!

    3) checked the shift lever to be sure I was in park (the shift lever is on the steering column). RESULT=nada again, and I should note that I cannot move the shift lever at all.

    4) bought graphite powder and graphite spray, sprayed into ignition cylinder, on key, all over self, etc. RESULT=key still will not turn, out of pocket $5, hands are covered in black stain and have black smudges on face from rubbing forehead trying to figure out what to try next. feel minor headache coming on.

    5) drove to auto parts store with black stained hands and face and bought Haynes manual and 'universal ignition cylinder assembly' thinking maybe I could just replace the ignition cylinder. RESULT=customers at auto parts store look at me strangely and guy behind counter who sold me graphite stuff tries hard to stifle laughter.

    6)I was further tortured into thinking relief is in sight since Haynes manual makes changing ignition cylinder look very easy, until I get to the part where it says that I have to turn the key to the ON position in order to slide the cylinder out. RESULT=Headache is getting worse. Out of pocket another $30 for manual and ignition cylinder assembly.

    I should add that this vehicle has been cursed since day one, but mostly with electrical type gremlins. You can imagine how thrilled I am to have a new challenge...

    While here in Vermont it is fairly common to have at least one if not several non-functioning vehicles in one's front yard, I would prefer to use this piece o junk to get to work as originally intended. Any suggestions on what the problem is and what to try next would be most appreciated.
  • My 96 Villager has the same problem. I have traced the problem to a ground not coming out of the front control panel. I have decided to just add a ground wire to the rear blower control switch that is located on the front control panel. Much cheaper than replacing the front panel.
  • I just had my water pump and timing chain replaced on my '96 Villager. It ran fine for a little over a week, but is now running hot again and leaking like it was prior to replacing the water pump!

    Of course its headed back to the mechanic, but I fear he'll say it's something else!!! Wadaya think?
  • i just pulled up the same recall notice regarding the fuel vent hose on our 1996 villager. take heed, my van caught on fire this afternoon and is now totalled. has anyone else had this problem with their villager catching on fire. the tires are melted, all wires are burnt. towing company said to total it out. please, advise, anyone. thanks.
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,221
    Hi, jimboj,

    You can check with the NHTSA to see if there have been investigations or complaints about this. Either way, it would be a good idea to file a report with them.

    NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation


    Need help getting around? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • I have a 99 Mercury Villager with 140K+ miles on it. Have had the ignition switch replaced once and the computer replaced, both unrelated, and both over two years ago.
    Recently noticed that the automatic headlights were turning off immediately and not delayed shutoff like they're supposed to do. This has been intermittent, and has not been a real problem.
    Then last night I pulled in to the gas station to fill up, and when I turned the key to restart the car, nothing happened. No dash lights, no warning lights, nothing. I retried, still nothing. I moved the wheel and shift lever to see if the interlock was stuck, and the wheel turned, but not the shift lever.
    Tried my wife's key, still nothing. Then after several more tries, I noticed the airbag indicator light blink, then after a few more tries the lights came back on and the car started. It restarted okay after we got home.

    I'm wondering if the ignition switch and interlocks may be at fault. Has anyone here had similar experience? If so, what was the fix?

  • 1995 Mercury Villager GS

    Passenger door had some of the key issues noted (had to turn twice to unlock with key) but worked for the last year.
    Last night - passenger got out, and then latch would not work at all. Dorr just bounced open. I had to move out of the way, so I pushed the electic lock button to unlock then locked. And door latched.

    Little did I know - I would never open the door again.
    Nothing will open the door. (no keyless entry on this old one).
    Just acts like the door is locked.

    I was going to pull the door panel and replace the latch (I am assuming it is the nylon cylinder in the latch that sets locked/unlocked)
    But with the door closed - can not reach the 2 screws covered by the edge of the dash.

    This is a tough one.
    Not really worth spending several $100 to have dealer figure it out.
    I have a new latch part on order.

    Anyone had this issue?
    Anyone know of a way to get the door open? (Short of cutting out the door panel)

  • Our 99 Villager will not allow me to turn the ignition key unless I have my thumb on the shiny side of the key. No kidding! My wife's key works okay, but mine will only work one side up. Both keys are duplicates, as we never got the original keys when we bought the car used.
    It also once had a remote starter, which was apparently ripped out by the original owner. I didn't know that when we bought it. Dunno if that makes a difference or not.
    Anyway, try the key in both orientations. Maybe you'll luck out.
  • sjs58sjs58 Posts: 3
    First(and easiest)thing I'd check is the battery cables. Sounds like you could have a loose clamp. I've had this happen over the years with any different cars. Out of nowhere, you've have a totaly dead vehicle without even headlights as if there was no battery at all. Or you would have interior lights but when you would turn the key, everything goes out. Dash, interior, warning lights, buzzers might return after a couple seconds up to a minute. Whenever your headlight and interior lights fail, head straight for the battery. Give each a good twist and if you get one to move, it the one. At that point twisting it should restore good contact to get you going.

    It only happened last summer on vacation with my 99. Those cheap factory clamps were the cause.

    I have to add it's never happened on a morning start. Only after the car is driven a short distance and turned off to run in for a cup of coffee or pay for gas.
    Good Luck!
  • gbmlsgbmls Posts: 1
    I am unable to shift out of park Again! This problem started a few years ago. First the Solenoid was replaced and the problem was resolved , I thought. Last summer the same problem reoccured. This time the Ignition was replaced, again the problem was resolved until yesterday. I cant move the shift lever out of park without depressing the break multiple times or jiggling the ignition switch. Do I need another ignition with or solenoid? Can anyone tell me what causes this, and can it be prevented form happening again? Please help!!!
  • When my 1997 villager rolled 100,000 miles, the check engine light came ON. It was carried to a local mechanic for service. It has been returned 4 times, but the mechanic cannot isolate the problem. I am told that all parts for the EGR system have been replaced. I hope so with over a $700 repair bill.

    I ordered a code reader and have cleared the P0400 code twice. So far the code has not changed. It appeared after about 120 miles were driven each time. I am recording the information to see if anything changes.

    Does anyone have any ideas? I was told that the car was safe to drive, but I want to be sure.
  • I just put a downpayment on a 1999 Quest GLE. While checking it out, we found the rear vents didn't deliver heat, only cool air. Sales guy said they were just for A/C, but this doesn't sound right. Is it true, or does the vehicle have a problem? Also, the stereo's display is out. Can't see station, etc. Is this a costly repair, or not a big deal? Thanks so much... great forum here.
  • kenatakenata Posts: 4
    Here's a good one. My drivers' side door lock/window control panel does not illuminate with the lights switched on. 96 Villager. The internal lamp is burned out. It looks nearly impossible to replace that lamp and the dealer thinks that the whole control switch assy. needs to be replaced for that problem. I have a hard time believing that a 25 cent lamp is not accessible. Plz tell me it ain't so. What kind of an engineer would allow that to happen!!?? Anyone able to replace this lamp?
  • Ok guys, help me out here. 1st problems was no heat. Husband replaced the thermostat. While working on it, went to reverse the car and heard a loud thud. Then, no reverse. Took it to the crook, auto repair shop...rebuilt my trans $1350.oo. Went to pick it up, ran horrible. Told me I needed a knock sensor and TPS throttle position sensor. Would be a few days, bring the car back. Tols me I could drive it. Went 4 miles roundtrip to the store, no heat again. Car overheating. Came home to find no coolent, all over the garage floor. Took it back, they claim it was the gaskets replaced, $250. Called yesterday, they don't have the tps sensor, and now feel we can wait on the knock sensor. CAR WAS DRIVING FINE, IDLED A BIT HIGH...BUT NOW ALL THIS!!! Any suggestions?????
  • By the way, when taking it to the shop for the 1st time, I had heat after the new thermostat. Forgot to mention, I only have 46,000 miles on this!!
  • I own a 2005 Quest with approx 18,000 miles on it. Have been to dealer 2X, told both front axles had to be replaced, van still vibrates over 60, my teeth actually chatter!!!
    Gets worse as you go faster, totally goes away at 58 MHP. Tires rotated, balanced, brakes new.
    Going to dealer again!
    Any thoughts.

  • Gets worse, the TPS sensor was put in. Test drove the car.. ran like crap. Came home parked it. Went to move it, wouldn't go reverse or forward!!!
This discussion has been closed.