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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • cdacscdacs Posts: 3
    To all,

    I just had my villager serviced. changed the four tires, shocks and struts, all four wheels aligned and balanced....SOLVED!

    ran the new jersey turnpike at 80 mph and it was running beautifully!

    If i had to narrow it down though i think the alignment is what the problem was.

    Hope this helps those with the same problem
  • marku1marku1 Posts: 11
    I replaced the timing belt because it was the cause of the engine performance problems. Actually, I was lucky because normally the belt does not give any clue that it is about to break. The only way to know it is time is to look at the mileage. This is the basic truth about timing belts- You will replace it, now or after it breaks. It is easy to delay because you think "I'm doing O.K." But this is not a belt you can open the hood and inspect for damage.
    As for the motor mounts, they are inexpensive, around $30. each. They are not hard to replace yourself as long as your jack can get the van more than three inches off the ground! The mounts are not traditional mounts. They are essentially motor "hangers". They are made with a steel body and a rubber insert. Sounds normal, except the rubber is not solid, it has gaps that allow the engine to remain "suspended". I assume this was done to provide a smoother ride. What is does is make for some weak mounts. Even if the mounts break, your engine will not "fall out". The engine mounting bolt goes through the steel sleeve on the mount. So if the rubber shreds, like mine, the steel will "catch" it. Just a theory but I think the excessive movement from the broken mounts was the reason my exhaust studs broke. The studs are a REAL problem with this van (read the tales of misery).
    To summarize, if the odometer reads 100,000+, change the belt, even if you pay someone to do it for you it will be cheaper than the tow when it breaks. As for the mounts, $120. for a new set is hundreds less than replacing exhaust studs. Bite the bullet or wait and pay BIG!
    Advice from a guy who has been there and done that.
  • cdacscdacs Posts: 3

    Just curious. How much did changing the timing belt set you back?

  • dougmacdougmac Posts: 3
    I have a 93 Mercury Villager with a timing belt.
    Owners manual says replace every 60,000mi. Is the engine the interference type?(which will self destruct if timing belt breaks). The van has 162,000 miles, I bought it with 117,000--I'm assuming(hoping) the first owner replaced it at 60,000.
  • marku1marku1 Posts: 11
    I had to replace my water pump (leaking), so I already had removed the covers, belts, and hoses. The belt was less than $50. The mech. wanted $450 and $100. of that was for the water pump. Five hours for $450., no thanks. If you want, this IS the type of service you can do yourself. If the money is not an issue (around $350.), have a mech. do it. One thing to remember, if you do it yourself, you will need a crank pulley strap to hold the crank pulley still while removing the bolt.
  • dougmacdougmac Posts: 3
    I have a 93 Villager, and am trying to answer the same question. Any help would be appreciated.
  • dougmacdougmac Posts: 3
    I found timing belts on the internet yesterday (brand new, of course) selling for 25 to 35 bucks, depending on the manufacturer (shipping included).
  • jw1096jw1096 Posts: 2
    Thanks to everyone for their inputs.

    I have four new tires all balanced, new struts and new axles and still have vibration at high speed. Did not change shocks nor align the wheels though. Do you think alignment will fix the vibration problem? I can understand doing alignment if vehicle is pulling to one side more than the other. What do everyone think? Still trying to fix the problem. Help!
  • lampwalklampwalk Posts: 17
    Help with whether to fix this. 93 Nissan Quest with almost 200,000 miles had timing belt break. Owner will let us have the vehicle if we pay for the repair. Does this mean a new engine or rebuilding the old engine? What else will/can go wrong at this mileage? Supposedly, transmission has not been rebuilt or replaced.

    This is a Maxima engine, so, if rebuilt, what additional mileage can we expect, also what cost to rebuild transmission BEFORE it blows and what else could go wrong?

    This will be a vehicle for my daughter and her husband once repaired, so don't want them to get a whole new set of problems!

    We were the original owners of the van and sold it to some friends 4 years ago and they just forgot to change the timing belt.
  • lampwalklampwalk Posts: 17
    Did you ever get an answer to this problem? We have a similar vehicle in mind--a 93 Quest GXE with a little over that mileage and the owner said the timing belt broke, damaged the engine and to repair it would be $1000, but wonder if the damaged valves could also do something to the computer control module and if this would jsut be the beginning of problems? A year later, if you are still on board, what happened with this Quest?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Sounds like a bad idea all around. The engine probably is damaged, and rebuilding it would cost more than the entire van is worth even in perfect condition. You'd be much better off just buying a good used vehicle. I think this van is done for, given the mileage and the situation.

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  • klowklow Posts: 1

    I have a flashing airbag light that came on on my 97 Quest after I replaced the blower motor during which I had to unplug the two pin connector of the passenger side airbag that is on behind the glove compartment. I did not think I had done anything to the airbag system other than by disabling so it will not goes off accidentally.

    Please advice on how I can reset the flashing airbag light. I hate to bring in to the dealer and have them charge me $$$. Thanks a lot in advance!

  • theflushtheflush Posts: 100
    I'm considering buying an 01 Villager Estate with 73K miles.

    What type of issues do I need to worry about with this van?
  • activex111activex111 Posts: 41
    :confuse: Hi,
    may sound like a stupid question but i had problem on my 96 villager where a/c was not coming on. I checked the switch located on top of a reservoir towards rear-left side of the engine compartment. I unplugged the switch and using a cabel jumped the contacts and my a/c came on. Now is that a low pressure switch or a/c relay switch ? and also if has anyone replaced it, can you please share your experience?
    here's the picture
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,004
    All in all they are pretty good vans for the money. Some seem to have electrical glitches (power locks, blower fans etc.) And it seems like a lot of people have had problems with a sticky throttle body, which is easily fixed with spray cleaner. Some of the earlier models had exhaust studs that broke, but I think that was fixed by the '01 year. Just don't expect the features or refinement of an '06 Honda, Toyota, or even a Chrysler.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • azadazad Posts: 1
    I've had a squeal in my 95 villager also. After careful observation, I found an IDLER "pulley" which was making the noise. Cost at local auto parts store was under $30.for the new pulley(installed it myself) and squeal was gone.
  • stephen16stephen16 Posts: 4
    A few weeks ago I took my 2002 Quest in to have the breaks replaced. Now my rear brake lights don't work, but the rear lights are fine. I took the van back in to the shop that did the brakes, and they checked all the fuses and wires and told me that they couldn't find any problems. The little brake light at the top still works.

    Any ideas on what I should check and where I should look? I don't know for sure if the lights were working before the brakes were replaced, so I'm not sure if this was an existing problem or a new problem.

    I'm am also noticing that whenever I apply my new brakes to stop, they squeak. Is that normal for new brakes? They weren't making any sounds at all before I replaced them.
  • ggroot30ggroot30 Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 2001 Quest along with the built in tv/vcr unit in the console. Can I tune in to local television stations, or does this unit only play vcr cassettes?

    A couple of other questions:
    Is there a way to prevent the gear shifter (the lever that you use to select drive, etc.) from incessantly rattling?

    Is there a way to adjust the lumbar support on the driver's seat? It feels like there is a metal bar pushing against the small of my back!

    Thanks for your help.
  • dpfmbadpfmba Posts: 1
    Thought I would throw this out before heading to a mech. 2001 Villager A/C compressor intermittantly cycles on and off (every 5 to 10 seconds) when turned on. Low side pressure was low so R134a was added but the compressor continues its start/stop cycling. Could a switch be causing this or is the compressor shot?
  • dmbslcdmbslc Posts: 2
    it is supposed to cycle. If you added too much R134 it can cause the high pressure shut off switch to cylce it even quicker to avoid damaging the pump.

    hope this helps.
  • oilman78oilman78 Posts: 3
    Preparing for a trip, I had a mechanic check my '95 Villager and he said the brakes were fine. Not having to pay for brake work, I had him flush the brake lines and probably created a problem. My left front wheel was smoking after a few miles. The brakes were locked and the wheel would not turn in neutral. The lines were bled repeatedly and the vehicle tested. The left front and right rear would still be locked. The problem was solved by removing the "valve" on top of the master cylinder and cleaning it.
    To bleed: The ignition switch must be off and the electrical connectors for the ABS actuator disconnected (or battery ground disconnected). The order of bleeding is left front, right front, left rear and right rear.
    Your mechanic may need to clean that valve (flushing my system probably clogged it) and make certain the 'out of the ordinary' bleeding order is followed.
    I bet some of the poor mileage posts for these vehicles are due to locked brakes.
  • questerquester Posts: 3
    This sounds to me like a break in the flex line for the brakes. If the line is broken inside, it could act as a 1 way check valve, holding the brakes on for a while after use, and whats worse it may not do it every time. This could act as a frozen caliper as well, and is something that nobody ever thinks of because the flexlines will appear to be fine from the outside. I'd look at having those lines replaced.
  • questerquester Posts: 3
    Hi, have a 1997 Mercury Villager with the 3.0, changed the timing belt yesterday and today the engine is running very rough. Is it possible that I am one tooth off on one of the cams? It was impossible to see the left side cam mark, so I'm not sure if I got it lined up just right. Also when I did the rotate the engine 2 complete turns bit, the marks were no longer lining up on the belt. It seemed to crank up fine yesterday but today ran very rough. Any assistance would be appreciated.
  • mulnhdmulnhd Posts: 1
    We just traded in a 2001 with the VCR and it only plays tapes. You can, though, use the RCA inputs on the VCR to connect a portable DVD player or game system to it.

    As for the the gear shifter -- it should not rattle also I don't think that there is lumbar adjustemt on the seat.
  • oldarmyoldarmy Posts: 27
    Yes the TV works but only does so clearly if you are sitting still. When the vehicle is moving the picture on the TV is pretty unstable. I have a 99 and the TV/VCR still works..pretty good for an Audiovox product.
  • m6chem6che Posts: 18
    Back in 2004, I paid for Duane Harrison's expertise. He has a web site, instructions and parts to repair Ford and Nissan Quest radio displays. I had the same problem with the dead radio display in my 1999 Quest. I have no relationship with him except my radio display was fixed and is very bright two years later. I considered his service extremely valuable and paid for a replacement power supply rather than doing the work myself. I recall a rebuilt power supply was around $99. The cost of the instructions to do the soldering repair yourself is much less, but you have to be pretty good working on tiny soldering points. The web site is:
  • Ive owned a 97 mercury villager for about a year now. When i brought it the dealer said the previous owner had said he thought there was a brake problem but when it was checked out nothing could be found. The car always seemed to grind a little when taking off from a standstill but i really didnt think much of it. This past week i noticed it shuddering more at high speed. Then my front passenger brake caught fire. I have no abs warning light showing. I replaced the calliper still it overheats. And i noticed that the right side has been overheating too. Where should i start????Thanks James
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282

    I'm no expert, but here are a couple of possibilities. If you replaced the caliper, it could be a collapsed flexible brake line. These can restrict the flow of brake fluid back to the master cylinder and cause the same symptoms as a stuck caliper.

    The Villager/Quest also has some sort of valve on the master cylinder that can clog up and cause the same symptoms. I'm sorry I don't recall exactly what it's called. I belong to an email list that discusses these vans and I recall this same problem happening to a couple of other members. One (handy) person was able to get it functioning properly by removing and cleaning it.

    You might want to find a place that is familiar with these vans to get it worked on. In any case, this does not sound like it necessarily has anything to do with the ABS if it is otherwise functioning, and is not tripping the ABS light.

    Hope this helps.

  • Hi, I have the same problem with tires as everyone else, crappy OEM Goodyear's ! I was wondering if anyone has actually put different size tires, particularly the 235/60/16, on their van and have driven a fair amount of mileage. Wanting to know what results you have gotten from driving, handling, too big for the wheelwell??, etc...and what brand tire you put on the 04 quest. I am needing some new tires here soon and looking for some info.
    Thanks for the help!
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 118
    I stayed with the same size on my 2k Villager and went to the Firstone FR30's (80K rating, I think). Thay have performed lightyears better than the Goodyears that cams on it. Within less tahn 35k miles, I have gone through 2 complete sets of tires due to the belts separating. I have out 25-30K on this set of Firestones and they ride and handle like new. That is just my opinion, but I happen to be satisfied with they. I use Brigestones on my 2k TC with the same results.
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