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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • budman007budman007 Posts: 3
    No, haven't tried that, I talked to a Nissan tech yesterday and he said it sounds like the Air Flow Meter, but will have charge me out the gazoo to check and see. I did clean the throttle body yesterday(which was simple with the instructions here) Thanks for that peeps!!! Anyway, it does seem to be a bit better, but not sure the problem is. I might be able to change the Fuel Filter myself, not sure...will have to look it up...anyone know? Thanks ALL!!!
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    I, too, thought it might be the bad solder connection. But, I wonder if maybe something else is going on because the rear air does come on 5-10 minutes into the drive every time. And, some of the time, the rear air comes on as soon as the a/c is turned on, as it should. Very unusual problem. Thanks for any ideas.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Maybe it's one of those "cold" solder joints and works fine until it warms up. Then the gap widens and the connection quits. Nothing more fun than a sporadic problem to try to troubleshoot. :confuse:

    Steve, SUVS and Speed Shop Host
  • gsusinmegsusinme Posts: 12
    I was thinking that also. Heat expansion of the solder joint could cause an intermittent fault. It's definitely worth checking out and it should take less than 1 hour.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Thanks for the advice. I will check out the solder joint. The web site link Steve gave me is very helpful. It still seems strange to me that the air will turn on after about 5-10 minutes, but does not work at first start-up. I will check it out in the next few days. Any other thoughts will be appreciated.
  • Pretty good guess. Don't who started this thread but let me tell you what I know. Mounted behind the A/C control panel is a circuit board with a couple of relays. I suspect that its vibration that cracks the board. One or more traces will be broken. Fixing the board is relatively easy, just bridge each break with a short length of bare wire and solder. If you don't know how to solder then don't attempt to repair. The hard part is getting to the circuit board. That requires removal of the bezel that surrounds the a/c control panel and radio. There are two screws that must be removed. As I remember one of the screws in the ash tray compartment. Then the bezel is held in with snap fittings that will give if you pry carefully. Use a baord flat edge to pry with or you will damage or crack the bezel. If you get this far the a/c panel is held in with four screws. The panel wiring has very little give. The battery should be disconnected at this point cause there is more than one high current circuit that you could short. You may have to remove the electrical connectors from the back of the panel in order to get to the circuit board. If you got this far then you are pretty handy and should be able to figure out the rest.

    I know this much because I have a 1994 Villager with rear air that had a similar problem. I had confirmation of this problem because I also fix a friend's 1993 that had been diagnosed as costing $1000 to repair. His was not fixed for a few years and resulted in the fan switch going into melt down twice. If your's is warm or even hot to the touch I strongly suggest you get the pc board fixed or replaced.

    By the way there are three lamps in the control panel, two of which you can replace. Those two light the two knobs on either side of the panel. The third lamp lights the panel itself but is not available as a replacement. That bulb is behind the pc board and the back of the control panel. You wont even see it if you dont remove the pc board mounting hardware. However,I know how to replace/ :) fix that lamp but that's another story.

    Good luck and by all means be careful!
  • motonationmotonation Posts: 34
    Remember that the blower resistors only come into play on the lower 3 fan speed settings; your blower should work on high (4) even if the resistor(s) is bad. Selecting high speed on the blower bypasses the resistor electrically.

    The resistors are located right near the fan motors and are held in place by (2) 8mm head-size bolts; each has a 4-wire electrical connector on it, and is approx 1"x2".
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Just took my panel off - wish I had a digicam. There's another screw to remove on the top right of the door panel. Ease off the bezel around the door handle above the switches. I always forget to do that and they break easily. Got lucky this morning.

    After removing the screws go ahead and pull out the switch assembly and remove the two power connectors. A screwdriver helps to push in on the release to work them free.

    There's a gap in the bottom right of the panel that looks like the best place to start popping the connectors loose. May as well disconnect the puddle light so you can move the panel across the room out of the way.

    If you get this far, the rest should be easy.

    Steve, SUVs and Speed Shop Host
  • ktrjcktrjc Posts: 4

    We have a problem with our front A/C blowing warm air. The rear is working fine and blows great cold air. Any idea what could be creating this problem and how do I fix it. Help it is too HOT :(

  • I am in the same situation with the door locks going crazy. It only happens when I have batteries in the remote. Any solutions? Thanks, T
  • baffled5baffled5 Posts: 1
    I don't usually need to do any rapid accelerating but when the van makes a hissing noise in third gear as it gets near the upper end of the range. Any ideas what might be causing this? It seeems to be a consistent pitch. The van has just turned over 100K miles. :confuse:

  • Do your front vents blow hot air even when the AC is off? Yes, I know it is summer, but what I mean is that, is the incoming fresh air being inadvertantly heated by your HVAC system? (Is heat being commanded regardless of the temp knob position?). You should easily be able to determine this at night or first thing in the morning.

    Since your rear system blows cold air, we know that your under-hood air conditioning components are ok, but it sounds as though there is an unwanted heat command...and his could be caused by your front control panel, a stuck heater valve, etc.

    Post back with more info and lets see if we can get you pointed in the right direction Ken :)
  • Say where is the EGRC Solenoid on the 99 villager with CA Emissions? Haynes manual gives no reference.
  • For all who have asked before, here are the part numbers (Nissan & Ford) for the two blower motor resistors. These were purchased today for our '97Q...rear was inop, front changed just because it was starting to corrode. They were about $15 each from the Ford dealer.

    Front: Nissan p/n 27150-0B001, Ford p/n F3XH-19A706-BA
    Rear: Nissan p/n 27150-0B002, Ford p/n F5XH-19A706-AA

    Happy motoring!
  • The control panel has an automatic button and also can control the rear AC fan speed. However, the only thing wrong is the fan switch for the front area. I turned it on and it went high and could not turn off. Next day it would worked okay then stopped blowing. Dealers says I can only replace at $600+ just for the part (they say I have to purchase the entire panel). Can I find the fan switch somewhere? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Reading my service manual for my '99 Quest can be a bear - it has a diagram of the EGRC-solenoid valve with two hoses going to the EGR valve and intake manifold collector off the throttle body and one hose (near the wiring harness connector) connected by a hose to the throttle body. Wiring goes to the ignition switch and ECM. There's another diagram that indicates the solenoid lives under the intake manifold collector on the left side of the engine as you face it. I'll try to dig my scanner out tonight and post it on my CarSpace album.

    Steve, SUVs and Speed Shop Host
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Here's the link to the EGRC-Solenoid Valve stuff:


    Steve, SUVS and Speed Shop Host
  • sakevsakev Posts: 2
    Easy answer Ebay. Bought one for under $50. Easy to install. This site gives you instructions on removal installation under "inoperative rear blower".
  • I bought the complete panel from a junk yard today for 25.00. I had to take it out myself but it is easy. Remove the trim panel by pulling it off and take out the four screws holding the entire panel in. Unplug the wires and it comes out. It took 5 minutes.
  • ktrjcktrjc Posts: 4
    :sick: You hit the nail on the head. Warm air seems to be stuck in the on position (it appears as though heat is coming in from the engine). Even when the knob is only on vent. Thank you so much for posting back.
  • Thanks Steve for going to the trouble; mystery continues....probably a fault with the ECU; cannot explain the code 1400 otherwise, after checking circuits, etc.
  • ktrjcktrjc Posts: 4
    Oh yeah,

    This morning we noticed that when the switch is off "nothing" comes out as usual but when the switch is on the warm air is flowing!
  • Glad to see you are still on this Ken - many forums have people posting problems but no follow-up info.

    Anyway, that brings us back to my first post - either your front control panel is stuck in heat mode, or the actual heater valve is stuck. Unfortunately, I haven't dug into the bowels of this particular HVAC system, so I couldn't tell you how to get to the actual heater valve itself. Perhaps someone else can chime in here?
  • ktrjcktrjc Posts: 4
    Been a little busy working on my bike and another vehicle, got side track :-)

    Hey any help would be great. I am ready to take the dash off and look around. How can I tell if its the control panel? Anyone have any advise on the easiest way to get to the heater valve?

  • Thanks and I agree. The flex lines, front calipers, and pads were the first parts replaced and did not solve the problem. It seemed to come to that "nut" on the master cylinder. The brakes have worked fine since.
  • See my post #2362. Check a "Haynes" manual as you are supposed to disconnect some ABS stuff before bleeding. That nut on top of the master cylinder has one inlet and four outlets (or vice versa). It could be one or more channels is plugged resulting in one wheel/brake operating as designed and the other dragging.
  • Did you ever get your flashing airbag light solved? I have a similar problem when I had to work in the dash and disconnect the computer.
  • My drivers side window quit rolling up this morning and I have called all auto parts places in the book for a new motor, $60.00 bucks! It will roll down, so it seems the motor is fine, but will not roll up. Hubby said the mechanic told him it was the switch, would that be it? Please help! :D :confuse:
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Those switches are a bit notorious for failing. The best thing to try first is some electrical cleaner spray to blast the carbon out of the switch. Try a Search This Discussion in here for more details.

    Here's a photo of my switch when I cut into it - the idea is to get the spray in this area to float the gunk out. And it's not necessary to dismantle the switch to get the spray in (now they tell me :shades: ).

    Steve, Host
    SUVs and Speed Shop
  • See if your catalatyc convertor is clogged. I know this sounds crazy, but my hubby's dodge was doing the same thing and that was the prob.
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