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VW Golf



  • sroundssrounds Posts: 5
    I have a '96 Golf 2.0 and ever since I bought the car, after sitting in rain for a while, it's hard to start but once it's running I have no trouble. A couple days ago, I washed the car and started it up, but a minute later the car stalled. I would crank it over and over and this went on for severl hours. The car sounded like it was starved for gas but wasn't. I checked the distributor cap and it seemed all right (no water inside it) and after about three hours, got it towed to my house. I then tried starting it again and it would caugh as soon as I let go of the key. After sever times, I started up and seemed to be running great. But after about twenty minutes, I got into the car to leave and it would stall. This went on a couple more times and so I decided to get a new coil for the car since it always seemed to have trouble starting after getting rain. As soon as I put the new coil in, the car would start up but seemed to be running on three cylinders and was very smokey. I then thought it might be the plug wires that went bad so I bought a new distributor cap, rotor, plug wires and the car will only turn over like before, with the bad coil. I checked the plugs and found I was only getting the #4 plug to fire and now am not getting any spark from all four plugs. I'm thinking that I might have another bad coil but am not sure of this. Could any of you tell me what your guess is on this problem? And by the way, the timing belt is good, so that is not the problem. I have ordered a new coil and am waiting to get it back in the car.
  • kyle617kyle617 Posts: 2
    Hey does anybody know where the 91 VW Gti's are in MA??? I'm looking for one but can't find one.
  • shelley2shelley2 Posts: 17
    Hi there, my golf has developed a recent prob, on turning key and starting, the clock and trip mileometer reset themselves. The clock goes back to 12.00 and the trip to zero. Everything else seems to be working ok, and all fuses seem ok. Also the other week, the starter motor was intermittently failing to engage, but it has not been a problem this week. Are the two linked at all?
  • wbawba Posts: 3
    I've been doing some research in the forum trying to find out if someone else had a similar situation as mine. My 2001 Golf has a rattling noise, which I only noticed a couple days ago, that seems to come from the drivers side, or maybe the engine. It doesn't seem to happen all the time but when it does it will still do it even if the car is stopped. It also seems to happen (or I notice it) at lower RPMs. I'm not sure if its from a loose part in the door, from the tire, the axle, or the motor. I'd appreciate any help or suggestions you can offer. Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    All of those symptoms sure sound like a whimpy battery or poor conneciton to the battery.

    It is also possible that your alternator is not charging the battery.
  • gfeehangfeehan Posts: 1
    did you ever get a response to this problem - my daughters VW has the exact same problem and will not pass inspection - it just started out of no-where!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    poor ground to rear lights.
  • sroewesroewe Posts: 1

    I was driving my 2004 Volkswagen Golf today and I heard a scraping sound, It seems the plastic protector under the engine is coming off.

    I'm calling the dealer tomorrow and hoping this is covered under my 50,000 mile warranty.

    Does anyone know what this piece is called, if it is not covered under the warranty, I'll want to get a few estimates.
  • The underbody plastic is considered 'trim' and thus is not covered under warrantee. However, it also isn't super-expensive. There's actually three pieces - one on each side near the tires and one in the center. I had one of the side-pieces replaced for about $80, if I remember correctly.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The plastic skidplate under the engine aids in cooling by directing airflow out the rear of the engine compartment. It also protects the expensive aluminum oilPan from road debris. A small stone, speedbump or chunk of ice, can easilly make a hole in the oilpan and cause sudden loss of all engine-oil. (read sudden death to your engine!!)

    Unfortunately, the thing has to be removed EVERY time the oil is changed and is a hassle to deal with. That is why I do "topside" oil-changes by sucking the oil out the dipstick hole. That way, I can change the oil from under the hood.

    That said, I know some folks that have REMOVED tha plastic thing altogether and have run over 80K miles with it removed. (living on the edge?)

    If you decide to replace that plastic peice, consider replacing with one of the steel or aluminum ones which do a MUCH better job of protecting that expensive aluminum oilpan. (and is priced about the same as the plastic one from the dealer.)

    Here are a couple links to the steel -or- aluminum skidplates.
  • nerooonerooo Posts: 2
    hi, i just discovered today the trip\ display screen is blank, doesnt show any information, i have tried resiting etc...but nothing happened, any idea what is the problem.thanks lots. :confuse:
  • nerooonerooo Posts: 2
    i just discovered the trip display screen is blank doesnt work any more on my golf tdi , any help please, i have tried resiting it but seems is frozen. :confuse:
  • I just bought an 87 Golf in pretty good shape. I would like to know if I can swap out the factory grill and rectangular headlights for the GTi grill with round headlights with little to no modifications ? Thanks. Charlie
  • bankmanbankman Posts: 2
    I have just bought an automatic 2003 VW Golf 2.0 Generation. As I am not familiar with this car, just wanted to check with others whether the following is "normal"?;
    - When idling, it revs at around 1,000
    - Seems to switch into 4th (top) gear at around 60km/h where it revs at around 2,000, but when going at 100km/h, the rev counter starts to get towards 2,500-2,750
    - Once going, the temperature gauge basically lives on the halfway point, regardless of speed.

    Any thoughts out there?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Since the idle is NOT adjustable without a computer connected to it, and yours is not throwing any CEL, I would have to assume the idle speed you are seeing is normal.

    I can tell you that it is normal for the temp guage to stay at 190 (straight up) all the time when at operating temp. The cooling system on VW engines is "bypass" type which is VERY good a maintaining consistant engine temp.
  • bankmanbankman Posts: 2
    Well bpeebles,

    Something was definetly wrong. ONly a few weeks later, the engine light is on (continuously) and theres a definite problem with the gear changes (yes, its automatic) - it feels like its 'slipping' into the wrong gear occassionally, and sometimes does not have the power to get up hills.

    I found all this out on a long trip and had to nurse it all the way home.
    Next stop...the mechanics.
  • Anyone have an opinion on which is the better buy? I have a budget of 10k... I owned the 1997 VW_Golf and drove it until the wheels fell off. I drove that poor car to death. I love the feel of a VW but think the interior of the Mini is sooo cool, gadget wize. ;)
  • seamistseamist Posts: 4
    Didn't read all the posts, but I just had that fixed. Do you have a sunroof? There are two drain holes that can get plugged in the edges of it and drain out near the bottom of the front of the front doors. Take an air comressor hose with a blow gun and blow out the hole. That fixed mine in about 5 minutes.
  • Sorry I'm not technical and would like your help.
    My display has just gone blank today, I was hoping it is just a fuse but haven't a clue really.
    Can I ask if you had any joy, or know what the problem could be?
    Appreciate any help/pointers you can give.
  • Hey guys I was just wondering what everyone's thoughts were on the 05 Golf GL ...solid car or what? A local dealer is selling one from VW Canada for just under $8 grand with only 59,000km. I took the car out for a test drive and it felt very solid and they have done an outstanding job keeping it great condition. I am going to have my mechanic have a look over but does anyone have any thoughts on this car be it positive or negative. Thanks for the input guys.
  • Get a diesel! You get more zip, 40-50 mpg, and it will run on biodiesel (even treated used ff grease). Best to get 2005 1/2 (first half of 2006 before the ultra-low sulfur engine). I installed a HHO system in mine and although the fuel mileage is the same I have a RACE CAR! The engine will last forever and it purrs very quietly. The exhaust doesn't stink like the inefficient pickup ones do. The interior is nice, quiet, solid, and converts to a wagon while still looking sporty. So to answer your question, yes and no. Be picky! Get a diesel or don't bother. :blush:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I beleive you will find most folks that follow the VW forums may feel positive.

    I can tell you we have several VWs in the family... both of my daughters drive VWs. My one daughter drives the wheels off of her little Gulf. She drove from Montrial Canada to NorthCaralina back to Vermont this summer. With over 130K miles on it... it keeps on running.

    You did not say which engine it has... that may tend to sway some folks one way or another.

    The 12-year/unlimited milage corrosion warantee is a HUGE plus for me. (I am in Vermont where they use a lot of roadsalt)
  • It the 2.0L 4 banger. It really is just for getting back and forth to university and such. The diesels really carry a premium with them, one which I am fairly certain I'm not willing to spend.

    Any other experiences/thoughts?

    Thanks for the replies.
  • The car was working fine and then just one time i went to start it just wont go. It turns over, just wont start. It was making some noises so i think the fuel pump may have gone bad, but i changed the in tank and still no different....HELP!
  • rv65rv65 Posts: 1,076
    Not too many changes for the Golf for 2011. The real changes are mainly in the electronics. A new Bluetooth kit is coming out that is fully integrated within the MFD display and can do A2DP. It's not a Skoda unit with A2DP. It's made by a different vendor and can integrate within the RNS-510, with Skoda like menus. It's standard on all TDI's but optional on the 2.5.

    The Nav is now only $590, but they cheapened it and used a unit with a smaller screen, though you can retrofit an RNS-510 if you desire. The new unit is called RNS-315 and it's similar to the European RNS-310 but is for the US market. Not a whole lot of changes but more later.
  • bdesaibdesai Posts: 24
    I have ordered a 2011 reflex silver Golf TDI, 4dr, Manual. My dealer does not know the build date but says that it will probably be late August/early Sept before I get delivery. I am itching to get it though. Any ideas out there as to when to expect the first 2011 TDIs?? Also, I had to put 500 bucks down and am paying sticker price.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited July 2010
    I hope your dealer told you that there is no such thing as "ordering" a Volkswagen. (Not in the same sense as you can "order" an American-branded vehicle with every nuance of features your heart desires)

    Instead, with VW, you can submit a 'request' for a specific combination of features (color, engine, xmission.... etc) When (if) the factory produces one which meets your requirements, then it will be tagged to be shipped to your dealer.

    Beware!! I had a dealer take my down-payment and after I waited for several months, he admited that he never really submitted my 'request'. He then tried to 'push' me into a car from his lot. I got my money back and went to another VW dealer who was able to get the EXACT vehicle I wanted within several days by 'swapping' with another dealership.
  • 2011 EPA ratings are up nicely on the 2.5s. Do people buy TDIs knowing or not knowing about the fuel pump problem? It can completely blow the engine.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Can you please elaborate on the "Fuel Pump Problem"? Can you also provide some weblinks to your references so we can read about it ourselves? (I could not find it on the NHTSA website)

    Personally, I cannot understand how a bad fuelpump can 'blow' a diesel engine... would not the engine just stop running? (no perminant damage)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    How'd they do it? The hwy mpg for the 2.5 went from 30 to 33 mpg.

    My kid is buying a 2010, losing out on the mpg but getting the $1500 dealer incentive and $300 below invoice, probably saving $2000 over a 2011. $2000 buys a lot of gas.
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