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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)



  • Do you have ABS option? If so, I have heard problems on other mfr. vehicles with faulting ABS systems causing problems with manual braking as you described. If you do have ABS have you gotten the warning light-but then had it go out? If so you can potentially have those codes read and analyzed for possible faults leading to improper braking. I have had the ABS warning light come a few times over the past year or so however, (knock on wood), I have not had any problems (yet!). I have a 94 LS with 140K miles on it.

    Maybe helpful, mebbe not...
  • Does the labor include paint, prep. If so, although he may be overcharging you for this job, it doesn't take much damage to have collision repair costs skyrocket. Obviously you are going to have other estimates done right? This will probably answer your own question and would be prudent ;) .
  • Sounds about right for the timing belt and water pump replacement at the dealer, I had my '97 Integra LS serviced recently, the mileage is 95K. I also had the brakes done for $525, and a gasket pan leak was also found...$220 to fix?! (Don't know if that was really necessary, I hadn't noticed any oil leaks.) Well, the service was done right the first time, the car runs like new and no new car payments...she's definitely a keeper! :D

    Might try checking a few dealers if it's convenient, sometimes the prices are different?!
  • I own a 1994 Acura integra GS-R and have had problems recently starting the car in the morning. The problem seems to be related to the not so cold September DC weather. When I depress the clutch to start the engine I have to be very careful about how far I depress the clutch pedal for the ignition to spark. Too little or too much and I get one click and no ignition. Three months ago I could not get the enginre to start and replaced the ignition coil, rotor, plugs, and plug wires which did the trick for the summer but the car has always been testy on cold mornings. If you have a suggestion I would appreciate any help.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    it's not the clutch safety switch? There is a switch under the dash that won't let the starter crank unless the clutch is pushed in. If you have to fuss with the exact positioning of the clutch to get the car to start, it is likely a problem with that switch. Sometimes, they just move in their mounts and get out of adjustment. Luckily, they are not expensive to replace.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • I have a 1992 Acura Integra, 185,000 miles, which was hit by a moving truck when it was parked. The truck was coming around the corner and hit the driver's side fender, took out a side light and headlight, and partially pulled off the bumper. After I picked the car up from the bodyshop, the stereo did not turn on (couldn't put in the code). I took it back to the shop, and they had a stereo repairman take a look. He said that the stereo is getting the 2 kinds of power it should get, but it mysteriously simply won't work. A few days later, the car wouldn't start, and a tow-truck driver friend tested it and said that the battery won't hold a charge, but the alternator seems to be putting out quite a bit (18v). I'm having the battery replaced (it was old anyway), but am wondering if the accident or repair could have screwed up the electronics/wiring, resulting in a blown stereo and/or alternator-type problems. Is this just a coincidence, or am I looking at a bigger issue? Thanks.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    It's probably not a coincidence at all. If I remember correctly the battery is pretty close to the fender that you got hit by. That can cause the problems you are describing. The no-start might be coincidence. But so many problems can happen from even minor accidents including relays/wiring and wierd stuff you couldn't even dream of let alone diagnose. For example I once had a loose screw (pardon the pun) in my distributor that caused the car to not start sometimes (seemingly randomly). It took a while to fiunally diagnose it.
    I believe your best bet is replaceeverythinmg and anything that got possibly hit in the accident.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    problems after a front-end accident, the rule of thumb is ALWAYS check all your grounds. Lots of things ground to the body up fron there along the fenders, I bet one got knocked loose, or was removed for bodywork and then not replaced.

    Now, the radio may be a separate issue - the stock stereo has a separate fuse inside its housing that might blow if it is not properly grounded, and then of course there are the security codes. If it is the stock stereo I would take it to the dealer, but deal with the larger grounding issue first.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • the car has 186k , with a 5sp manual trans. Once the car heats up, and you attempt to increase speed in each gear the car will increase in rpm and not go any faster. It will do this throughout the gears until your deisred set speed is reached. This is an interrmittent is clean, changed regularily..any clues???
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    here's one - you need a new clutch.

    It will do it more in higher gears, especially at low revs when you hit the gas.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • so im mechanically inclined....a project that a guy can tackle..???? How difficult is it???
  • sirgsirg Posts: 1
    i recently bought a 92 gsr it runs great it just dosent idle right i changed the throtlebody but that didnt correct it the engine just keeps reving up and down between 2&3 thousand rpm's i could really use some help
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Idle... It's either the TW sensor, a vacuum leak (somewhere) or you' might be running rich
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    I echo 90gs, most likely the TW sensor.

    frank: whoa! Yeah, you maybe could, but it requires some equipment. You have to drop the transmission. You have to know how to bleed a clutch. You have to have a photographic memory (or a Polaroid with flash) to put everything back where you found it. Beyond that, it is basically a plug-n-play job. But there is a reason that shops want $100s and $100s for this job - it is a lot of work. You will need to borrow a repair bay with a floor lift.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • Over the last few days I noticed that my clutch pedal has a lot of "give" when I start up the car. As I drive the pedal becomes more firm. I dont really have a problem shifting gears except I do have to press the pedal quite far in order to change the gear

    Has anyone seen this problem ? Any suggestion on what this might be ?
  • My manual GS Integra with 86k miles on it recently started making sounds that are similar to a lawnmower mixed with a gocart whenever I accelerate. The ounds seem to be coming from the exhaust area. Can anyone give me some help on that? Is it a serious problem and can I still drive it to the mechanic or must I have it towed?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    sounds like you have a leaking clutch system. It is hydraulic like the brakes, and if you have a leak, the pedal will get soft and engage lower to the floor. You should check the fluid level in the reservoir, and if it is low you should have it checked. Eventually you will begin to grind the gears when shifting, and if you neglect it long enough you won't be able to shift at all. You can put off the repair (if needed) by keeping the fluid topped up in the reservoir, but you have to be careful it never gets low enough to draw air into the system.

    wille: sounds like you have an exhaust leak, maybe? Perhaps a little rust has taken its toll down there? If that is what it is, you can drive it to the shop. Midas will find you something for cheap to bolt on there and solve the problem, or you could get OEM from the dealer and pay twice the price for something designed to fit and provide the proper amount of back pressure.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • docltdoclt Posts: 1
    I have encountered the same problem with my 1990 integra--the water appears to be running from the windshield cowling area down the heater housing. I am wondering if the windshield gasket is cracking and allowing the leak--as you said it only happens during the rain--I will continue with tracking the problem--I have already removed the internal plastic shroud and replaced the foam gasket--this obviously didn't help I think what you noticed by it leaking only when you move is the water collecting in the heater cover--just a thought. Still working on it, if either of us find the problem please respond. thanks
  • Well, thing is, I don't have an OEM exhaust. The exhaust is an RS-R exhaust (not sure which model). What should I do in that case?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Well, in that case it might just be a bad install, which can be fixed without new parts. Either way, it shouldn't cost a ton to fix.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    This may be totally unrelated but a leak is a leak right?! :confuse:

    Here's the deal. I recently stipped the trunk of my 2Dr 1990 Hatch (not plastic anything, no spare, just the carpet). I went to a car wash and I noticed a little bit of water coming in the cargo trunk area, presumably near/inbetween the taillights.
    It should be noted that I also have moisture in my taillights because I havent gotten around to replacing the foam gasket (common prob. w/my car).
    Has anyone had a similar leaking experience?!?! I'm not sure if stripping the trunk is what did it or if I just didn't notice until I stipped it.
  • I have a pretty bad leaking problem in my car too when it rains heavy and my car's outside. There is usually a puddle of water on the right side of the trunk just below the right taillight. I put a towel there when it rains and i'm driving so it does'nt leak all over my trunk. My GS-R is garage kept so i dont have to worry about it that much but like 90gs said if anyone knows anything...
  • I have had the same leaking problem in the rear cargo area, driver's side. Both rear tail light gaskets were replaced and resealed twice. There is also a drain hose from the rear power antenae that came loose on my car from replacing it. I was told by the dealership that the Integra's have a design problem with the rear tail lights, that's why they leak if the seals break for whatever reason.
  • I also have an intermittent starting problem with my 2000 Acura Integra that has now become worse. I will push the clutch in, the engine will keep turning and not fire. If I leave the car sit for about 20 to 30 minutes and try again, it starts. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this problem? I have had it into the dealership and they cannot find the problem because the car starts when it is there. Help!!
  • Hi All,
    My 96 LS steering wheel shimmy's when I use the brakes at higher speeds. Doesn't happen at lower speeds, < 40 mph or so. The wheels are in balance, so I'm not sure if it's rotors or something else. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    warped rotors, most likely. You can get them resurfaced (turned) as long as they haven't been resurfaced too many times before.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Yes, I second the warped rotors theory. How about this... stop breaking in neutral!!!! :surprise: and/or get better rotors.
  • I was about to post the same thing; what a coincidence. My 2001 SE Integra does the same thing when I brake, however it feels like more than just the steering wheel. It almost feels as if the entire vehicle is shaking. Going to take it in tomorrow to get it looked at. Would you say this is the same thing?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    yes, probably, and remember the rear rotors can be warped also, which makes the rear end vibrate. But take it in for inspection anyway, as there is just the slight chance it is something more serious like wheel bearings.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • My 94 integra is have a very weird problem starting. It starts on the second "try". This will occur for about 2-3 weeks, then be okay for a month or more. Then out of the blue, the problem begins again. It always starts on the second try. No sound on the first try, but all power sources are ok. Last week, it would not start at all: again, no sound from engine, but all lights on dash were lit. I let it sit for 1 hour, then tried again. It started on the second try, just like always! Has anyone experienced this? Three mechanics are stumped.
This discussion has been closed.