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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)



  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    My shop said my rear calipers and rotors needed replacement. The whole job costed $650(calipers, rotors, pads, fluids and labor). This included brake and tranny fluid change.

    Can you help me clear this up:
    1) I didn't hear any noise like you mentioned from the rear brakes. So is it normal for the caliper and rotor to be damaged with no warning sign.
    2) I had the shop look at the brakes same time last yr, and they said ok. Is it strange for the rear brakes to need this much work in a yr's time?
    3) The shop said the front pads are still good. It's close to 5 yrs (~40K miles) since last brake service. Does it make sense that the front pads don't need changing?
    4) The shop just drained the transmission fluid, but not drop the pan and replaced the filter. Was this right?
  • ok im new here....i have a 2000 integra ls....and my gears scape from 2nd to 3rd, but only over like 4200 rpms...ive been told its my timing gears???? if so how much does it cost to fix this, can i do it myself(easy/hard)
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Wow, that's pricey, although not out of the ballpark if they used OEM parts. The rear brakes don't make very much noise because they don't do very much of the work. Also, since the noise is behind the driver's seat, they are harder to hear. If you went from "the brakes are OK for now" to new calipers in a year, you must have done a bunch of HARD MILES in that time, that's all I can say. Look at your paperwork from last year - any decent shop will have given a percentage of remaining rear brake pad material - were they right on the edge then or something? New calipers and rotors means you ground the crap out of the brakes long after all the pad material was gone.

    As for replacement intervals on these brake pads, it has been my repeated experience with Integras both old and new (and other Hondas too) that they actually tend to go through the rear pads faster than the front ones, which are typically much thicker, more heavy duty pads than the rears.

    As for the transmission, draining just the fluid and replacing it will do for now. I hope that was a very small part of the price.

    bossmnpl: it is likely to be a synchro going bad, and no, if you don't know whether or not you can do it yourself, then you can't. It's a lot of work and expensive for a shop to do. My advice would be nurse it for a while - it will probably last quite a long time that way - and try to rev-match shifts into third gear. Try not to race it too much! Smooth shifts will be easier at lower rpms.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    As clueless as I am, I definitely know better than not to get pads after they are gone. That's why I asked this shop to check the brakes last yr to be on the safe side. They only verbally said it was ok, not how much brake is left to go. I did ~7000 miles this yr, and not much hard braking that I remember.

    I'm thinking that if the shop did a good job checking it, I could've avoided the expensive rear brake job now....hmmm....this means I better find another shop that takes more time and care about inspecting my car.

    Labor for tranny fluid change was only $23. So that's reasonable given it was done at the same time as the brake job. Originally, it was going to be $40-50 if done alone.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    "They only verbally said it was ok, not how much brake is left to go"

    In my experience, this means they never looked at them at all. But then, I am a cynic. In general, anything the shop tosses out as an offhand remark is worthless, whereas anything they put down on your write-up is meaningful (they know they can only be held to what they put down in black and white on your invoice). And CERTAINLY, if you PAY for a brake check, you should get in return a write-up of exactly what portion of your brakes is remaining.

    And you're right, you could have saved $300-400 by replacing the brake pads before you chewed up the calipers and rotors.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    Nippononly- Thanks for your advice again.

    After spending $2000, I've learned a few lessons on what I need to do to keep the car in good shape and how to ask the right questions.

    I should be more specific when speaking to people in the shop. Instead of saying 'Pls check my brakes', I should say 'Please tell me how thick the brake pads are and whether they need to be changed soon'.

    It should be 2-3 yrs before another round of maintenance is due for me. I think I'd better find another shop.
  • coryscorys Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 92 integra. When the S3 light flashes, the car won't start. Sometimes for 20 minutes or even a day. Any luck with a solution yet?
  • Hey, check these articles regarding transmission and brake flushes:

    You decide if the articles are trustworthy since they're from an automotive shop.

    Good luck in finding a reputable shop. By the way, shops that provide quality service and know what they're doing will charge more.
  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    Thanks for pointing out this site. Good info!
  • i bought this 96 integra ls two weeks ago i was so excited i put alarm,system and everything,yesterday when i was ready to go home the car start fine but then shut off in the midle of the road.i change spark plug cables,distributor cap,i don't see any sparks. already check the fuel pump too,i tough it was the alarm maybe but i don't think so cause it look like is fine and car sound like is almost ready to start,please help me out it won't start!!!!!!!!!! :cry: :cry:
  • go8bgo8b Posts: 6
    Dunno 'bout the 96, but my 90 did some realy flaky stuff like run - norun - run - die, etc. when the igniter was going. It fires the plugs and sets all timing via magnetic switch in distributor. Good luck
  • go8bgo8b Posts: 6
    Well, didn't get much response to my tranny problems so now going to check into changing it out with another automatic. Does anybody know what transmission I can utilize on this 1.8 DOC? Will only the that year and size fit or can I use a trany from a '92 2.2? Any help is greatly appreciated!
  • so do you think is the distributor or the module on the distributor? :confuse:
  • i replaced the ignition module of my acura and the rotor and still don't start.already expend $200 dollars and nothing please anybody help me i need my car on the road. :cry: :cry:
  • I have a '91 and it recently started stalling sporadically and progressively had problems re-starting. It would never stall for my mechanic and defied diagnosis. Today, it finally wouldn't re-start and I had it towed to the shop. My mechanic saw no spark and said it was the ignition coil.
  • I just bought my car about two months ago... It's a 95 manual transmission acura integra. My brother just changed the oil and the coolent... But he doesn't know enough about cars to help.
    About a week ago it started making this clicking, almost knocking sound when I started up the car. After revving it a few times or driving for a few minutes, the sound went away. This lasted a couple of days, but then it got worse. I tried to start it up one night, (I don't know if this matters but it was REALLY cold. Record lows.) and it wouldn't start. it was like... chugging. The whole car would rock as the car tried to start itself, but it wouldn't. After waiting a while I tried again, and it started fine.
    It did that for two days, and now it's chugging again. I trun the key in the ignition to start the car. It seems to start going, but then it starts to slowly... stop running. It's like the engine starts to steadily "lose steam."
    I discovered by accident that if I rev the engine when it starts to die, it will "catch" and start running smoothly. There are no other problems with it--once it's started, it's smooth and I haven't noticed any drag or noises. It's not even knocking anymore.
    But I'm really worried and scared to drive it. I have no idea what's wrong with the car, if it's something simple or if I have to take it to a shop. I really can't afford to take it to the shop, I just bought it, so it's a last resort. Please, please help. Does anyone know what's going on??
  • Hi, first time user, had a question for my wife;s 90 integra,

    She has a LIGHT next to the shifter but it is staying on and draining the battery.
    does any one know what is that light for and how do i fix to turn it off to stop draining the battery??
  • johnvjohnv Posts: 40
    What do your rpms do? Start out ~750rpm and then drop until it dies? There are some vaccum related things that'd make for a rough idle.
  • Greetings.
    I'm looking to buy a 97 Integra "Anniversary edition".

    The seller is currently unavailable, so does anyone know what equipment the anniv. edition came with.

    Specifically, did it have A/C,Sunroof, Power door locks and remote trunk release?
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    Sounds to me like like the fuel pump might be going, or the fuel filter needs to be checked/changed. It might be doing that due to fuel starvation.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    There is no "anniversary edition" Integra.

    There was a Special Edition Integra but I am pretty sure they only came out in '96. They basically had power everything (like an Integra LS), A/C, and possibly alloy wheels. Not sure about the moon roof though.

    NONE of the 3d generation Integras ('94-01) had a remote trunk release, BUT, the hatch door is part of the power lock system so once you unlocked the doors, all you had to do is open it from the outside, without needing a key. When you lock the doors, the hatch door locks as well, and the other way around. You could lock the hatch with the key (engine key), and all the doors will lock.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • bfdrwcbfdrwc Posts: 9
    Hi ,,, I have a 97 teg also , I bought it about 1 1/2 year ago when I got it I chang the oil and put some synthetic oil in it and thought it would be better for the car ..... but I found ever time I go to drive the car when it was cold, I could hear the eng and it sound like some thing was wrong with it .... I change it and put the high miles oil in the car and that was good , just get the oil the car call for but in High miles , see if this help you ..... plus from what I have seen once you use honda or Aucra stuff the car does work better like , power stering,brake ful,and Tran ,,,,, try changeing the oil and let me know what happen :P :P
  • Did you find the problem? Because my integra 92 LS auto. has exactly the same problem, I hope you can help me.
  • Hello, I am looking for some advice. I visited this forum once before and found the answer to my problem and I am hoping that I can go 2 for 2. Last week I heard a noise that sounded like rubbing coming from my rear driver side tire. I jacked up my car and found that my rear tire is not rotating freely. The emergency brake and the calipers are not stuck. The pads are not rubbing. Does anyone have any suggestions. Also does anyone know a site that I can visit to understand the mechanics of the wheel? A diagram would be helpful. Thank you.
  • No I have not. I tried taking out ALL the fuses inside the car (left of stearing column) but none of them seem to be linked to that light. I could try taking apart the center console where the shifter is but I do not really feel like doing that. I was hoping someone here would have been able to help..

    If i find the problem I'll make sure to post it.
  • johnvjohnv Posts: 40
    I have the same problem with a 1990 Integra. Fails NOX (by ~5 PPM) but CO2 and HC are totally in the green. There is no EGR valve on the 1990 5spd.

    Any options other than replacing the catalytic converter?

    To reduce NOX you want a leaner mix is that right?
  • I need to change out the thermostat in my 94 integra RS 4 DR. I purchased a tstat and gasket from NAPA, but it had no installation instructions. Looking under the hood at the expected locations, I can't even tell where it goes.

    Anyone familiar with this installation? Is there any kind of online manual with a picture of where it goes?


  • bfdrwcbfdrwc Posts: 9
    here is a link to help you to change your Thermostat , hope this help you and it also has soeme other good info too
  • I have a 99 Integra GS, with just 30k miles, (used to live in NYC.. no mileage, now Nevada.. 7k in last 6 months!).

    Need to have it serviced and Acura is quoting me over $500.00 for service, and Honda is quoting me a bit over $300.00.

    Any opinions on where the price should be and is there a difference between going to Honda or Acura?


This discussion has been closed.