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Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)



  • sandydebsandydeb Posts: 19
    Both the door handles (outside ones) on my 03 GTS make a very irritating rattling / humming sound when the JBL stereo is pumped slightly up and the bass is on full. The service center guys told me that the bolts can only be tightened from the inside. Does anyone know of some place from where I can get instructions on how to take off the door panels to access those bolts? I have done this on my older car but that never has power windows, power door locks, power mirrors or absolutely power anything at all :D Thanks!
  • jscevjscev Posts: 36
    Well personally i think my 02 Celica GT could have gone faster then 140. i had mine up to 130 mph for a few sec but didnt want to fly by a spot that police usually sit at so i gave myself some room to slow down just incase. i think she still had a whole lot left to go. So im sure everyone elses could do the same. i do have a dc sport header, injen intake. and magnaflow catback exhaust so maybe it helped my car to excellerate faster at the rpm's being travled at. i dont know if anyone here has mods on there celica.
  • bpraxisbpraxis Posts: 292
    As one of the first owners of a 2000 Celica GT with 62,000 miles I have been very pleased with the reliability and handling of the car.

    The MSRP of my car was approximately $19,600 in 2000 and I purchased the car for about $18,100.

    Now Toyota releases the Scion Tc which is really the replacement for the Celica with many more standard features, a larger engine, moonroof, 4 wheel disc brakes, seventeen inch aluminum wheels etc., etc., for a MSRP of about $17,200 with automatic transmission.

    If we take into account inflation or the debasement of our currency in 2000 dollars the Scion is priced at around $14,000 dollars.

    This is an amazing value and Korean car manufactures should be concerned about Toyotas amazing value equation here with the Tc. Well done Toyota and I cant wait for the new FJ Cruiser but please change the name.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    there is no question the tC is a great value for the buck, but I believe it would be more like $15,5 in year 2000 dollars. :-)

    Are you contemplating getting a tC to replace the Celica?

    I also like what I have seen of the new FJ slated to come out next spring, but don't expect these kind of low prices on that model.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rjsavinorjsavino Posts: 3
    My celica first had an engine light go bad at about 58K miles. My dealer looked into it and found the cat converter needed to be replaced (just an emissions issue). Since that point forward, my oil consumption, which was completely normal, shot down to approx 2 to 3 quarts every 1K miles. At 81K now, and my dealer is telling me I have to replace the engine at $3500 (says the "scope" his technician used tells him the rings are shot and the cylinders are leaking and immediately burning oil on usage). I've seen many postings about a Celica oil burning problem and a replacement engine as the fix. I don't feel I should be responsible for paying for what looks to be a material defect in this car. The dealer stated he knew of no other oil burning problems in 2000+ Celica's, but he will follow up with Toyota to double-check. What can I do, is there any information on this being a material defect?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    I have never heard of this being a car with problem engines, the block in the GT is the same engine they use in the Corolla since 1998, after all. If you drove away from that cat converter replacement at 58K miles, and it LITERALLY started the heavy oil consumption right away, then you probably had some type of big compression problem that the computer had detected, which was the original reason for the CEL. Remember, large-scale oil burning will plug the cat up quickly. If the car was at 58K when it happened, and was less than 60 months old at the time, then if I were you I would take all my repair records and the car straight down to the nearest Toyota dealer and explain the situation. If they are unsympathetic because they did not perform the repairs, take it to the next level (usually regional rep). It may be that Toyota will cover it if the proper maintenance has been done and the repair would have been covered under warranty if you had only gone to a Toyota dealer in the first place.

    OK, having said all that, I have to ask: why did you just drive it like that for almost 25K miles? You would have had a much better case if you had gotten it straightened out right away at the time.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rjsavinorjsavino Posts: 3

    It was under warranty with the cat replacement. I drove it for 20K miles because I reported the problem at 70K (at about 63K I noticed the problem but it was manageable at that time), but they made me go back on 3 separate occasions to ensure the oil was really burning (presumably to ensure I was not making it up).

    The dealer did perform the cat repairs, but they are unwilling to make any correlation to the fully blown cat at 58K and the oil problems that started thereafter. They said the systems are unrelated, and replacing the CAT has nothing to do (even positionally in the engine, like replacing the CAT couldn't have caused them to put the engine back together wrong) with the blown rings.

    Proper maintenance has been done and I have it all documented

    What is CEL?
    How can I approach them with the correlation you mention between the blown cat and oil consumption?
    How do I escalate, the owner of the dealership, whom do I contact thereafter? Even if this is out of warranty, do I not have a case that I need a new engine at between 60 and 80K?
  • CEL = Check Engine Light
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    yes, you have a case, but it is a weak case. If you didn't notice oil consumption until 5K miles later, and it was only a small ("manageable") amount until 70K, then the two things are unrelated.

    So then what do you have? You have what you say is a well-maintained engine, WITH RECORDS (which is very much in your favor), that has only 83K and needs a ring job - very unusual for a Toyota. What you do is, you go back to the Toyota dealer and ask to speak to the service manager. You explain how well cared for the car is, how it seems very early for the engine to need new rings, and how you would like some "good will" assistance with the repairs.

    He/she will say no.

    You then ask for contact info for the regional representative. They will give you a phone number and hopefully an e-mail address. You contact them, and make a very convincing argument for how well the car has been maintained, and how you are deeply shocked, hurt even, that it needs such an early and expensive repair. They will schedule a date and time to come and inspect it. In the meantime, they will be in touch with the service department, which will provide them with the diagnosis on your engine.

    If at any stage you get put off, Toyota also has a nationwide 800 number you can call to try and get a response. Toyota has in the past been good about going beyond the warranty when it comes to major stuff like this that shouldn't happen. But the car does have almost 85K miles, so don't expect miracles. And if the car is in any way not stock, or there is evidence of racing, forget it.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rjsavinorjsavino Posts: 3
    The dealer did not budge.. so I have to try the 800 number. The dealer did (off the record) recommend thicker and frequent oil additions and "engine restore" liquid that may "coat" the engine to hold oil better. He said I could get another 60K miles out of it assuming the rings are worn vs. cracked (since he didn't open it up yet to know). Since I have no noticable symptons, I can get by, and I would know when the symptons start coming, and will need to replace the engine anyways at that point. Does this sound like a viable option? Does anyone think it is possible I will get another 60K out of this engine assuming worn vs. cracked rings?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Are you really consuming a quart of oil every 350 miles? If so, and you are not blowing smoke all over the road, I would dump it quicker than a heartbeat. But try calling the national assistance number first, see if you can get any help there.

    And if you are in any way thinking of keeping it, get a second opinion on the oil problem. Generally speaking, those "engine restore" additives don't do much for very long.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • cleangtcleangt Posts: 1

    I just got a 2000 celica. The car has 66k miles and I want to give it a tune up.

    I got 4 Denso iridium spak plugs, a K & N air filter, I'm going to Mobil1 Sythetic and I just need recomendations on good spark plug wires. Is there anything else I'm missing, any recomendation? Does anyone use anytype of additives? (eg. Lucus motor oil stabilizer}

    Another question is, when going from normal oil to sythetic oil, should I do a GUNK engine wash before I change the oil and how long should you wait before the first oil change going from sythetic to sythetic.
  • jojofriesjojofries Posts: 1
    Whats up all, I have always been a fan of the 2000 series celicas and right now am in desperate need of a car. Right now there are three prospects here in germany with american specs (so i can take it home). They all have the power moonroof, alloy wheels, leather interior and antilock breaks. The first is a 2001 model with 25K on it going for $16K. The second is a 2004 model going for $21k with 31,000 miles on it. The third is a 2004 going for $22,995 with 10k. Being a soldier stationed in germany its hard to find a used car deal, especially when you want american specs. Any suggestions?
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 759
    Hi Cleangt. As far as wires, I'm sure any premium wires will do. I don't know too much about these things, but one factor is length. A good shop like Summit Racing may have a good recommendation for a quality wire, one that has accurate lengths, etc.

    No, do not use any additives. They are snake oil and a waste of money.

    Oil change intervals seem to be personal preferences. I am pretty confident that synthetic lasts longer than petrol-oil. That is why I use it. On the contrary, these double and dual cam engines are more sophisticated, and one definitely wants to keep them clean. Depending on my mood I go from 4000 to 6000 between changes for my GTS.

    Do not wash the engine. It probably will not hurt, but it basically washes the oil off of all the moving parts, and is a waste of money.

    If the oil on your new car looks completely black, then change the oil, drive it around a couple miles, and change it and the filter again. You may wish to use petroleum oil for the first change to save money.

    Jojofries, if you get the 2001, you'll have a lot of extra cash to put on custom wheels, new tires, satellite radio, and fill it with the best gas you can find. The newer model would be better for resale value in a handful of years. What does your pocketbook tell you to do? What does your heart say? Are they in agreement, or at odds? :)
  • bluebird3bluebird3 Posts: 2
    I am leaving the sedan family phase and was wanting a celica, found a 2003 beautiful blue metallic with the normal dings on front hood, couple of minor scratches. only 18704 miles for 2 years old, exc. interior.
    Was getting ready to pick it up from the dealer when they called, a service guy rear ended it on the front driver side panel. It is at their collision center, I've seen it and luckily the headlight is untouched, the front tire is clear for rotation. My concern is any damage(possibly?) to the underside as this is the front panel.
    at 17300 current cost do I have anything to bargain lower. The deal is not final now until the repairs are finished. Celicas are hard to find now that they have stopped production. All that is available in the area are 2005 GTS
    any suggestions from anyone with celica experience?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    you mean someone backed into your new car and hit it in the driver's front fender? I would say go ahead if you love the car, but only if it is a Toyota dealer and they repair it using OEM parts. That type of hit is very unlikely to do more than the immediately obvious damage, and if it is a Toyota dealer, they will tell you if it is more than that. Be sure to ask though.

    Is it the deep midnight blue, or that robins' egg blue they made for a short while? The lighter blue is very hard to find, so if you walk away it will be hard to find another one the same color.

    I would try to get some further discount on the car now that it has impaired value. The dealer will make a claim on their insurance, and the insurance company will report the damage and the dollar figure to repair it to the state DMV, where it will become part of the car's permanent record (CARFAX, etc).

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • bluebird3bluebird3 Posts: 2
    yup, hit it good, you can see the outline of the Tundra's bumper!
    dealer won't come down more saying they 'won't make money' and there is a waiting list as you cannot find any used in the area at this current time. the blue is the zephyr blue they came out with in 2003 (I think)

    but you confirmed our thought that the car should now be listed with an impaired value.
  • billy_raybilly_ray Posts: 1
    i was thinking of putting a supercharger on my 1.8 GT but i want to be able to run it safley without messing up my engine, cost is not an issue with parts but i dont want to spend more than i have to, and shopping around for parts is no problem for me, sourcing is what i do. I know i need a Fuel management system and i already ordered my cold air intake. What else should i or could i do to get better performance on my 1.8?
  • peterpanpeterpan Posts: 120
    Hi Joj,

    You can probably find a nice, clean, low-mileage, rust-free 2001 GTS in the sun belt states for about $12K. Save your money until you get home.

    The steering is tight and ultra precise. The brakes are powerful, smooth and quiet. The GTS' suspension is firm so the ride is kind of bumpy, but it would probably save your life in emergency maneuvers. Don't expect the boulevard ride in Grandma's sedan with the GTS. The throttle and engine respsonse are quick and smooth although you would have to rev it up to 6000 RPM to get decent acceleration. The car runs at about 90MPH at 4000 RPM, so at 7800 RPM red line, theoretically it should have 178MPH top speed. At high speed, the car feels light and responsive yet very stable. It holds the road very well in curves and tight turns.

    With the hatch-back door in the back, the car is very practical. I disagree with Edmunds editors who ranked the Acura RSX over it. The GT-S is so much fun to drive. It's very cool. It's a far better car, more reliable and more fun than the MBZ 500SL with fake wood trims and disheveld plastic panels.

    Right now it's my favorite car.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    "The car runs at about 90MPH at 4000 RPM, so at 7800 RPM red line, theoretically it should have 178MPH top speed."

    That is not the way it works. Air resistance increases as the square of speed, or something like that. In the case of Celica, IIRC, it can't reach 7800 rpm in sixth gear, which is a tall overdrive. And top speed is around 140? Again, going by memory there, it might be a little less. It is not more.

    And having owned both, I definitely prefer the RSX. It has a nicer interior by several yards. The Celica has the edge for nimbleness - the Celica is a little more tossable and has more direct steering. But most of the other categories fell in favor of the RSX for me.

    Celica vs Integra - it is a rivalry going back almost 20 years. I have been on both sides of the fence in that time. Now Celica is gone from the U.S., and in two years it is likely Integra (RSX) will be too. The end of an era, folks.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • hercules00hercules00 Posts: 122

    I just bought an 03 GTS, silver with 14k miles on it a few months back. It was fully loaded with all the available stuff except for the action package and was in excellent scratch-free condition with just a few stone chips up ahead. The only flaw I could catch was that the rear tires were still the OEM Yokos and were kind a worn out. The front tires had been replaced. The dealer started out from 20k but I finally got it for 16.9k + taxes. So I think you should definitely push the guy. Play dealers against each other, and ya, check the classifieds for private vehicles. Specially recommended coz I had seen this very same car listed on by a private seller. By the time I got in touch with his, he had sold his car. But once I got the car from the dealer, I realised that it was the very same car! I called him and asked him how much he had traded it in for, he said 14.2k!! So the delaer made a neat profit of 2.7k for nothing :(
  • Hey, I've got the same issue with my car at 68k. Consuming 2 quarts ever 1k. Engine is ruined. I'm compiling and sending this information to Toyota and 60 mins. Can I use your story? If so please send me this email with all of your contact information. Toyota should be held accountable.
    Thanks and best regards,
  • gambit293gambit293 Posts: 406
    Do you realize you're replying to a post that's about 1 1/2 years old? Just an FYI. I don't think she is going to see your post. If you're looking for specific information about the blown GT-S engines, you may want to check out one of the toyota-specific online clubs.
  • peterpanpeterpan Posts: 120
    "The car runs at about 90MPH at 4000 RPM, so at 7800 RPM red line, theoretically it should have 178MPH top speed."

    If all combined forces acting on the car allow the engine to rev up to 7800 RPM, the car will run at 178 MPH, since the gear ratio does not change.

    If air resistance is a limiting factor then the load on the engine will not let it rev up to 7800 RPM. But then this is also a theory which must be proved.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    well, as you like, but it doesn't need to be proved to me. Toyota published a top speed for the car, and it is not governor limited. I think it is around 138, 140, something like that. It is certainly nowhere near 178 mph. Air resistance prevents it from reaching redline in sixth gear (as it prevents many fast cars from reaching redline in their overdrive gear - overdrives are tall for a reason: highway cruising gas mileage improvement).

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • wscc1wscc1 Posts: 21
    I believe that CAR & DRIVER in their road test (Nov. or Dec. 1999?) saw an actual top speed (horse power limited) of 138 MPH. ROAD & TRACK (Nov. 1999) saw a
    top speed of 134 MPH.
  • peterpanpeterpan Posts: 120
    My figures are for the last gen Celica GTS, which is 2000 and later.
    Would the test in 1999 be for the first batch of 2000 Celica GTS model?
  • rorrrorr Posts: 3,630
    "Would the test in 1999 be for the first batch of 2000 Celica GTS model?"

    Yes. The car actually hit the market in October of 1999 and the road tests in the various magazines were in either the October or November issues if memory serves. I got my GTS in November of 1999.

    Not too sure about that 138mph number. Seems somewhat high. I would believe a number closer to 134 or perhaps a bit lower.

    FYI - top speed in the GTS is achieved in 5th. Shifting into 6th drops the rpm too much and the car actually begins to lose velocity. For top speed runs, one must run essentially up against the rev limiter in 4th before upshifting into 5th, taking care that the rpm does NOT drop below 6k.

    Or so I'm told...... ;)
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Hey guys I just bought a 1995 Celica GT for $3,200 and I wanna know if there are any good or standard modifications that can be done to this car. I'm concerned more particularly with the top end on the RPM band because I already have plenty of power from 1-3k. ;)

    Are there any aftermarket names that work well with this car? Any I should steer clear of? Any common modifications that are made to this year? :)
  • peterpanpeterpan Posts: 120
    My daughter, who started driving 2 years ago, claims '...the GTS is the only car she ever likes...' She likes the GTS' firm suspension over the GT's since it is fun to drive and gives her excellent feels for the road. Now she would not even loan it to me.

    I need to buy another car this summer and the GTS is it. Dealers still have new GTS delivery. I was told the factory is still producing Celicas until their existing inventory of parts runs out. I found 1 new GTS in Southern California. Unfortunately it is the same color as the one we already have.

    How can I find out what's available in other dealers? Out-of-state cars may need emission upgrades for California and may not be worth the trouble and the time.

    I have been using,, Yahoo's Auto look for used GTS. There are plenty of used GT in the market but GTS supply is very limited.

    Any suggestions for where to search?
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