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Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)



  • hi guys can anyone out there tell me where i can find information on a 92 toyota paseo. i typed it into the search here on edmunds and it came up with nothing. any help would be appreciated. i have a rad problem and need help. thanks
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Mechanically, it was related to the same-year Tercel. Maybe there is an active thread for Tercels - perhaps you could find some help there.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • peterpanpeterpan Posts: 120
    What did you do with it?

    Sounds like the cold-start sensor gone bad.
  • I own a 2002 Celica GT with 36,000 miles on it and I have had nothing but perfect performance with it.
  • I'm driving to Subway to get lunch and in my residential neighbourhood for whatever reason, the city has some big hoses running from a fire hydrant to a project a few blocks away (they are digging something up, not sure what) and they are covered in ashphalt. In essence it's a big speed bump for which you have to slow down to a crawl to go over.

    Well being so nice today, I had the windows open and the stereo thing you know....BANG!!!!! Needless to say I had gone over these stupid hoses with my car. I was going about 60 Km/h (35mph). Shortly after there is a 4 way stop and I went through that no problem...phew. I keep driving a couple of seconds and slow down for a turn and when I apply moderate pressure to my brakes there is this "clunk" sound from what I think is the front of the car (not really sure though).

    The car turns fine and there are no noises as far as I can tell when I turn the wheel either way. Also there is nothing leaking under the car, and looking at the undercarriage nothing seems to be hanging/out of place nor is there any sign I bottomed out. So my only problem is this clunking sound whenever I apply moderate pressure to the brakes (no sound when light pressure applied)


    I took it into the shop today and told them my problems. They ended up doing a brake service which consists of inspecting and lubing the brakes. The noise is still there and they told me that they would need 1-2 hours to run diagnostics on the car to get a better idea of what the problem was. They also retorqued the subframe (whatever that means) as this is often a cause of noises after accidents. In addition, they checked underneath the car and according to them absolutely everything looks as it should. I asked if the car was safe to drive as is and he said "I can't guarantee that it is".

    I decided to take the car as is and I will try another shop tomorrow to get a second opinion before forking out $160 just to have the car looked at again. Any opinions?
  • peterpanpeterpan Posts: 120
    Had the same problem running over a loose tailpipe on freeway at about 70MPH.

    The brake was making scraping noise and acting weak. Turned out that the impact knocked one of the pads hard to the point where it was stuck, therefore the brake was not squeezing the rotor from both sides. Replaced the pads and lubricate the pins holding the pads together. Noise was gone, brakes are perfect again.

    Suggest you replace the pads first. If problem is still there, replace the rotor. It's possible one or both rotors were warped by the impact.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 759
    "Inspecting and lubing the brakes".

    The only way to inspect the brakes is to pull the pads out and look at them. Mechanics / brake service places make brakes out to be rocket science. The reality is they want to charge a fortune for the labor to break the calipers free and take a close look.

    If the problem is with the brakes, you would feel a difference in the break pedal when the thud happens, and yea, that could be a broken/shifting pad.

    Were you stepping on the brakes as you hit this object? It would explain how a brake component got bent or broken during the ordeal.

    Next, I suggest an inspection by a suspension specialist. Perhaps a suspension part broke, and the suspension is shifting.
  • peter panpeter pan Posts: 75
    Anyone having car problems should buy an engine scanner. Search in Ebay for one. Should cost about $50.

    You can hook it to the diagnostic connector at the driver's left knee and turn on the key without starting the car. It will read out all error codes. Referencing the error codes in the included manual, you should have a list of all defective modules in the car. It will help you troubleshoot problems logically and cost effectively.

    Most scanners can also turn off the annoying 'check engine' light on the dash board, which dealers would charge $100 to do.

    This scanner has saved me a lot of money and headache fixing problems on my own, or managing the repairs done by dealers or repair shops.

    Good luck.
  • Great handling. Slow!!!! I want to speed it up but not burn more gas. Is this possible? Typical rice burner.
  • pranaprana Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 90' Toyoto Celica GTS. It's in great shape. One thing that needs fixing is the audio system.

    When a CD or tape is put in the head unit, the sound output is faint even when the volume knob is at the highest level. When the radio is turned on at the highest level, the whole neighbourhood shakes.

    Could this low output on the CD and Tape be due to a power amp on it's last legs? Should I replace it? BTW, where is the power amp located in this model?

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 759
    If there is a separate amp, you'll have to search the car for it. Could be under seats or in the hatch, for instance. Otherwise there is an amp in the head unit.

    I don't know a great deal about audio, but any device in the head unit would be using the same amp within the head unit. Unless there is some separate output for CD or such which doesn't sound right.

    Have you considered a new head unit for $200? You'll get mp3's and such, in addition to a radio that works right.
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Hello All,

    I just bought a 1985 Celica convertible with 391,000 miles on it. The car just passed state inspection today with flying colors. Just changed the oil & filter, air filter, and spark plugs and they looked fine - plugs were not oil fouled, so I'm thinking the engine is in good shape. Just drove the car over 1,000 miles from where I bought it to get it home.

    The driveline appears to have some play in it, at first I thought it was U-joints but the driveshaft seems tight. Does anyone know what I should look into, in order to tighten up the driveline? I get a clunk when I let off the gas or step on it. Car is a GT-S with 5 speed manual and 22RE 4cyl.

    - P.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 759
    Paul - looking at that mileage, thinking, WOW. That's awesome.

    Now a clunk - Regarding the U-joints - make sure your method of analyzing them is sound. Assuming it is, how about engine mounts. That would be something that needs immediate attention.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    my guess would also be the U-joints. IIRC, those cars had driveshafts with U-joints that couldn't be replaced separately, so when they go you have to replace the whole driveshaft - I had to do it once.
    Another clunk could be the rear diff, which could be pretty worn after all those miles. 391K, fantastic! Those '82-85s were the most durable Celicas ever made.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • I'm looking to buy an '83 Toyota Celica GT-S, but I'm not sure if they sell any type of high performance parts for this type of car. Can anyone tell me if there is still high performance parts for this car and are they going to be expensive since this car is rare? thank you for your input.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    I kinda doubt there are a lot of hi-po parts for these cars any more. However, the 22RE under the hood is probably the most common engine Toyota has produced in the last quarter century, and for years and years there were shops specializing just in these engines. I am sure there are still places that could help you out in the power department.

    The '83 is the one that wasn't officially a GT-S, but was labelled a GT, right? I had one for years, LOVED that car.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Thanks, guitarzan!

    When I have doubts about why I bought the car or the long road ahead for reconditioning, I look at the mileage and know I did the right thing. I'll check the motor mounts.

    Btw I'm averaging 32.4 mpg with mostly highway driving.

    - Paul
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Thanks ninppononly,

    Yikes! Scary thoughts ($) about replacing the driveshaft :surprise: . This may be a dumb question, but was that really expensive? I'll make sure to rule out everything else first.

    I tried to drain the differential fluid, but could not get the fill bolt undone. Had the proper socket and breaker bar, no luck. Tried WD-40, vise grips and hammer, no luck. Any ideas before I pull off the cover and take it to a shop? My last resort is to try it when the rear end is cold, did not do that yet.

    - Paul
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 759
    Caveat: I do not know if there are any damage implications, read at your own risk.

    When removing brake calipers, the only way to loosen the bolt, because the bolt is designed NOT to release, is to heat it up. The different rate of expansion between the bolt metal and caliper metal allows it to easily break loose. A simple torch on the bolt may help. I put the disclaimer up there, because, heck if I know if there is any danger of heating the differential fluid, etc.

    Don't forget penetrating oil. It is different as its extremely thin consistency allows it to wick magically into any available gaps.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    This was about eight years ago, and I made two attempts. At first I went with an aftermarket shop that specialized in that sort of thing, and they put one on that was unbalanced, so the whole car would shake in kind of a sick scary way at highway speeds. Got rid of that one QUICK!
    Then I went with the OEM part - paid about $800 as I recall, including having the dealership install it for me. A LOT of money, but it was smooth after that. The aftermarket part and install was relatively cheap: about $300 as I recall. But if you do that, make sure you get one that is balanced! I am sure the shop would have fixed the problem for free, but I just didn't want to hassle with going back EIGHT times for one repair.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Thanks, Guitarzan - I brought the cover to a machine shop and had them use a torch, etc. They got the bolt out, 1 day and $25. later (well spent, a new cover from Toyota would have been $155). Btw I used never seez on the new bolt.

    - Paul
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Thanks, it doesn't seem as bad now - and with the cold weather coming may wait until the spring. Have to put a new top on first, as we seem to have some dampness in the trunk.

    - Paul
  • I am just getting into car tuning with my 02 celica and i am going to attempt to switch the original engine out with a 2jz-gte, any guidance would be welcome. (even if it is negative, all help is welcome)

    Do you think it can be done, do you know of anyone that is made a swap like this, do you know of anyone that can help. thanks a lot.

  • rorrrorr Posts: 3,630
    "I am just getting into car tuning with my 02 celica and i am going to attempt to switch the original engine out with a 2jz-gte..."

    Um, WHAT?

    First, you ARE aware that the '02 celica is a FWD platform with an inline 4 cylinder and a transaxle, correct?

    And the 2jz-gte is a twin-turbo straight-6 designed for the RWD Supra?

    To begin with:

    You need a driveshaft tunnel. You need space at the rear for the complete IRS rear suspension and DIFFERENTIAL. You need a completely new transmission tunnel fabricated into the floorpan to accept the tranny that goes with the 2jz-gte (somehow I doubt that your going to stick a straight-6 sideways under the hood of a Celica and have it magically bolt up to the standard transaxle).

    You need to move the firewall to accound for a straight-6 pointing north-south rather than the stock motor pointing east-west. You might end up sitting in the rear seat area. Of course, you also need to change out the front suspension, redesign the steering rack and steering column , move the pedal assemblies, etc. etc. etc.

    It would actually be substantially SIMPLER to get another complete Celica drivetrain, cut out the rear suspension from your car, modify the donor drivetrain to eliminate the steering mechanism, and mount the donor drivetrain into place creating a twin-engine Celica. Working out the kinks like airflow, upsized radiator to serve two engines, and shifting two transmissions in unison would probably be simpler than massaging a 2jz-gte into a modern Celica.

    But since you're just getting into 'car tuning', you might want to try something a LITTLE LESS ambitious right out of the gate.....
  • I ran over a bunch of steel lane devider, looking like half a hemet planted on the street. The tires started making wobbling noise. The tire shop told me the wheel is bent, need straightened out.

    I had the front left wheel refurbished. The wobbling tire noise is still there. The car runs OK but the wobbling noise is very annoying. It's very depressing.

    Anybody had the same problem and had good solutions? The city that plants these steel lane deviders must be a bunch of Nazis.
  • I scanned the car with the enginer scanner, pointing to a faulty speedometer sensor.

    It turned out that the sensor was easy to replace. It sells for about $200 from dealer. It sits on top of the auto transmission in the middle of the car, slightly on the driver side.

    To have access, you have to remove the battery. The sensor is below and next to the battery. Remove the electrical connector. Use a 10mm socket with long extension to loosen the only bolt that holds the sensor to the transmission.

    The sensor has a white plastic gear whose shaft is held inside the sensor assembly with a E ring. Remove the E ring and pull out the gear. Reassemble in reverse order.

    I just saved myself a few hundred buck of 'expert' diagosis and 'professional' gouging at the dealer.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 759
    Pan, the things I am thinking about:
    *The shop that reconditioned the wheel, what is the final spec? "Like new", "no noticeable bends", "no measurable bends", ??

    *Is the wobbling identical to before the wheel repair?
    *Is the wobbling at a specific speed, or no matter what speed? If at any speed, was a chunk taken out of the tire?
    *Was the tire balanced when re-mounted?

    You would probably want the wobbly tire in back, possibly until it evens out (?). It would be less noticeable, would not affect steering, torque pull, etc. "Safer"=debatable, but perhaps a mild control issue.

    Was the TIRE thoroughly inspected? Maybe it has a broken belt, damaged sidewall, etc. ====> replace.
  • The car felt wobbly with an annoying rythmic tire noise variable with the driving speed. Tire shop says alloy wheels can be bent by impacts when hot. They are more likely to fracture when cold.

    It looks like the wheel repair shop ran steel rollers around the inner edge of the wheel, in the process grinding off some thichkness of the Alum alloy. It costed $65. The other alternative is $400 for a new wheel. The used wheels in eBay probably all have some defects.

    That was an expensive penalty for defying lane deviders installed by Nazis.

    The tire shop rebalanced the tire and added about 8 of the flat weights to the grinded area. They checked the wheel / tire and declared they were good. The wheel was spinned up against a hard edge. No warpage was found. No flat spots or uneven wears were found on the tire. The car now feels more stable at high speed, but the rythmic tire noise persists.

    The tire shop found the right rear tire to have feathered wear. A worn strut would bounce the tire against the pavement, causing uneven, feathering wear and the rythmic tire noise. Will replace the rear struts and see what happens. They will swap the rear tires to even out the wear. I am not sure how they can swap the tires as they are directional.

    When gas is over $3.00 per gallon, it makes good economic sense to have everything in good working order. Any repairs or replacements would most likely pay for themselves in a few weeks in gas savings, not to mention restoring the safety and performance of the car.
  • We just bought a 1996 Celica GT with 93000 miles on it. There is a thumping (sounds like a flat tire) sound coming from the left rear tire area. The tires need replacing, but are not extremely worn. The car did have its 90K mile service done (timing belt(s)- water pump, etc.). What could this noise be? I searched and found some replies for CV joints, wheel bearings? Should we take it to a general mechanic (who is not Toyota mechanic, but has a great rep with friends) or go to a Toyota dealer or to a tire place? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is our son's first car so we want to get it fixed properly. Without a definite diagnosis, do you think this is going to be a very expensive repair? Thanks again!
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