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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro



  • What did you do to fix the window ? I love my 97 , but have the same problem with the window .
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    or you could just push the dome light swirch 4 or 5 times within 5 seconds... that turns off the DRL's and the auto-lights. At least on my '04. It also does the same on my '01 S-10 so I woulkd assume that this would be true for an Astro made in this century.
  • Did you ever find the problem. I am having teh same problem with a 2000 AWD Astro van
  • reyahkreyahk Posts: 4
    Hello ,I drove and park my van as usual and after 4 days was unable to start.The motor would turn over but not start.A mechanic advised me to change the distributor cap,rotor and I also bought new wires and plugs.After changing the dis cap and rotor the vehicle started first key,then he switched off to change the wires.... now after several tries vehicle started but with a missing or backfire sound.. wires was checked and yes correctly replaced... so now vehicle is starting but no acceleration power to move,so I was advised to have the distributor replaced with a new one which i did but with same result, vehicle starting but no power to move..... any idea?
  • Since it seemed to run well after dist cap & rotor, I would strongly suggest dbbl checking the wire specs, integrity of the install and the possibility of new defective wires. Perhaps reinstall the old ones temporarily.

    Good Luck
  • n5445n5445 Posts: 28
    I would check the fuel pressure. That is unless I'm missing half of the previous post.
    I dont know the reason why you started with the wires before fuel pressure.
  • morlogmorlog Posts: 2
    Check to see that when you put the new wires in you started from the right hole. It sounds like you may be one hole out.
  • reyahkreyahk Posts: 4
    MAke sure the wires are correctly replaced to the right cylinders. and the timing was properly done,if these things are done have a muffler person examine your catalic converter and exaust system....... good luck
  • 95 Astro. Ran fine but set for about 5 mo. Had to buy new battery, While jump starting gauges, lights went crazy. Would not start afterwards. Fuel pump replaced, fuel drained. new filter. Tune up new plugs (Bosch P4) took those out rep. with AC OEM. New fuel filter , Bosch wires, Dist cap/rotor. OBD1 giving some odd readings from evap canister system. Replaced ECM/EPROM. Fuel pressure at 55-60. Car starts fast idle a little rough, rep. MAP sensor. Problem only occurs when it reaches operating temp. Temp gauge working so sending unit is OK. Pulled out EGR. no sig carbon pin worked smoothly. I'm running out of Ideas, The nice man at the Dealer said bring it in for $110/HR and we will help you. LOL. I do have a good mechanic @ $40/HR. Honest! but he is stumped also. Seem like some sensor is cutting the fuel once it is warm and the TPS is opened. Could it be the TPS? But the OBD did not show a problem with it. I hate to just start replacing sensors. O2 sensors seem to be sensing and switching well within voltage range. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • jackyhjackyh Posts: 1
    I have had similar problems with my 2000 Safari. Had fuel pump replaced about a year ago, fuel filter and dist.cap and rotor and ignition coil and wires and tune up about six months ago. Everything seemed ok till a month ago, when I stalled in traffic. After that I have had trouble starting, now I will need a tow to go anywhere. Battery and alternator are fine, no engine codes. Starting stuff all works, and I can hear fuel pump come on but thats the end. I have spoken to 2 mechanics and their opinions are it could be: ignition module (mech no.1), mechanic no.2 said it is more likely wetness on the distributor. Try drying off the dist.cap and rotor and see it it works. It was very wet and cold when these problems happened. He said might need a new distributor as they get corroded. These are just ideas, I need to know what to do next as it is major bucks to even get to the engine and I am toying with the idea of trade in.
  • Hey Guys how is it going. I could'nt resist in sticking my two cents in one this one.
    My 1998 AWD Astro did the same thing AFTER the fuel pump was replaced by a
    shop. I went berserk trying to find the problem. Stalling, towing to shop, etc.
    Here is the test ... Fill the van FULL of gas to the top. Drive it around. I guaranty
    you don't stall or sputter unitil you get under half a tank or less of fuel. Try this and let me know. My problem was the non-GM (aftermarket) pumps that you get from
    everywhere but the dealer, have a pickup (Not to be confused with the screen on the bottom), but an actual hose with a metal quarter sized round pickup that snaps into the channel where the screen is. Mine came loose and hovered half way up inside the pump body. When the van had less than a full tank especially on hills and turns it would sputter and stall because the quarter size pickup was sucking air instead of fuel. This literally drove me crazy for 8 months until I got disgusted and dropped the tank myself and took out the old pump and found the problem. I bought a new GM Pump and no more problems. You can reseat the pickup in the bottom of the pump but I don't guaranty it will stay seated..

    Good Luck and let me know. My van runs great no problems at all NOW !!!

  • dlm1954dlm1954 Posts: 57
    You might check your fuel pump realy on the firewall ab0ove the heater blower,or check fuel pump pressure when it stops. i'm seen these fuel pumps quit pumpimping after they warm up, I just replaced one on my daughters monte carlo last summer for the same problem.
  • Thank you for your replies so far I will look into some of your Ideas. I did end up getting an OBD code of 32 which is the EGR Valve. I have checked the ground and reference voltages to the valve they are fine, so I am going to replace the EGR valve. Got a good deal On Ebay new Delphi for $70. Waiting for it to arrive this week. Hopefully this will do it. I have also wondered about the Autozone fuel pump if it is working properly but the pressures are good. I will post the results for those interested.
    Craig S
  • reyahkreyahk Posts: 4
    I drive my GMC safari,but the gear shift display in the cluster keeps moving to something else eg if I 'm in park it display mabe 3 ,whenI'm in drive it display P then sometimes move to D,when u're N it shows P and so on,everything else on the cluster works fine any idea if it's a problem with some sensor or is it the cluster or ?
  • My current symptom is the van will start, rough idle, I can rev it some, but about 7 seconds later it will dive/stall.

    I need to know what the fuel pressure is at the back side of the TBI. I also wonder if the EGR passages can be blocked temporarily to see if the EGR is dumping hot gas in the intake at the wrong time?

    I've replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, IAC valve, computer, coolant sensor, cat. I've had the ignition control module tested, the EGR tested. The dealer replaced the fuel pump, but I wonder if it was done right. I replaced the injector pod with a rebuilt one.

    Aside from low fuel pressure or EGR malfunction, the only thing I can dream up as a possible cause is hot gas leaking through to the intake passages at the intake gasket. I've run a complete set of pressure tests and leak down tests to rule out the head gasket or burnt valves.
  • Will the body parts from a 1988 Safari Van fit on to a 1987 Astro Van? Our 1988 was hit and we purchased it back from the insurance company. We purchased a 1987 Astro Van and would like to know if the body parts are interchangeable.

  • reyahkreyahk Posts: 4
    everytime I shift from park to D or any other position the shift position display on the cluster will show something else eg if I move to R the display shows P ,if I move to N it shows 3 when I'm in D it shows R etc everything else on the cluster works fine any idea if it's a sensor or module or the actual cluster?
  • They should, these vans didn't change much from year to year, but you can go to a Astro parts site for body parts and check the part numbers to see what will fit.
  • If that's a electronic dash and I assume it is, the circuit board is probaly bad, in which case your talking a dealer item which means big bucks. If I were you I would live with it or go to a junk yard and pull one, it will save you a lot of money for a part that rarely goes bad.
  • I have an older 1993 Astro. On mine, the shift indicator is driven by a cable that clips to the steering column. When you shift, the cable is pulled or retracts. I know about this cable, because when I was replacing a turn indicator switch, which required the steering column to be lowered, I managed to snap my cable from its mount in the instrument cluster. Rather than fork out for a new instrument cluster, we have learned where the shift lever should be for 4, 3, etc.... Your cable might be binding on something, if they still use this method.
  • I still have not found the problem that is causing my Astro to suddenly stall after 10 seconds of engine run. I did find a molten fuel relay, which I replaced yesterday. And a recently blown ignition fuse, which I replaced today. I plan to examine the electrical cables behind the battery this weekend, and do a fuel pressure test as well. Any ideas are welcome.
  • Now that I think about it your right thats controlled by a little piece of thread like material, I had the same problem a few years ago and thats how I fixed it, it it came undone I think I don't remember replacing the actual cable I think it just poped off for some reason.

  • The end of the cable has a clip which clips to the edge of the cylinder on the steering column which rotates with the shift lever. You can slide it left or right to get the right gear indication. You're right, the cable is as small as a thread.
  • Hello

    I need your honest professional opinion. On Fri. Jan. 23 I took my van into a local repair depot to get a coolant leak repaired. After they checked out the van they found a leak by the left rear part of the manifold. New one to me. Anyhow I was quoted $900.00 + CAN. and 6 hours of time to repair it. I OK'd the quote.

    Now early the next week, 6 hours seems to have been a miss quote, I was told by the service manager that the mechanic screwed things up so badly that they decided to replace my engine with a new one. How could that be??????

    Here is one of the many points I am trying to make. They still want to charge me the $900.00. (No, I don't have my van back yet.) They did not complete the work I was quoted on successfully or satisfactorily. They only screwed things up. Why should I still be charged for work that was not actually done irrespective of what was done to correct the problems they caused?

  • You were right ON! It was the Airtex fuel pump. I also replaced the fuel pump with a Delphi OEM and installed a new strainer, drained and washed out the gas tank. It was pretty gunky inside. Now it runs great. Will be returning the Airtex pump tomorrow. I am sure I will get a hassle. I did go online to look up complaints about Autozone parts esp. the fuel pumps, a very high return rate, apparently they don't care. Because the keep pushing that crap. I agree with others stick with GM OEM parts, you will save alot of money and frustration in the long run.

    Thanks, Craig S :)
  • Don't know how they screwed that one up so bad but it sounds like maybe they had a rookie do the job. If they're willing to replace the engine with a certified and warrentied rebuilt engine without trying to get any more money out of you, I would say pay the $900.00 you were willing to pay for the original work and call it good. There's no way that they're going to give you an apology and a replacement engine, and not charge you a dime. It's not worth going to court over. Good luck, hopefully they wont screw up the installation of the replacement engine.
  • I just seen your meesage and usaully that egr valve can be corrected by cleaning it and putting in a screened gasket which they now make for these Astros for this problem. I used to make my own and then they started marketing them, they work because that Astro and tose egr valve valves are constant problems. They also came out with a new computer prom cal to make the egr cycle faster so the carbon wouldn't stick but it never did anything for me but remove about five hundred bucks from my pocket.

  • I need to know if there is a different fuse for a GMC Safari van. I have no need for the cigarette lighter however I have checked and the fuse appears to be good. I DO need the power ports and need to know what the title of the fuse location is in the underdash panel.. ANY help is great.
  • What year is your Astro? If it is an older van, like pre 1994, and work has been done on it, then maybe when the mechanic put the doghouse back on, and the dash trim panel, which contains the glovebox and the cigarette lighter, he may have forgotten to connect the connector to the cigarette lighter. Two 7mm bolts hold the trim panel on the sides, and two 10mm nuts hold it fast at the bottom. Undo those, and the trim panel should swing out from the bottom, and then you can lift it up. It will be obvious if the connector is not connected. Plug it in, and reverse the procedure. If you have a newer Astro, I know nothing about how it goes together. Do they even have a doghouse?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I am assuming you have a 97 or newer (when they changed dash designs) and have the 2 power ports that are on the passenger side in addition to the cig lighter by the cupholder. I think they are connected to the same fuse and the same procedure for checking applies as stated above.

    If the fuse is good, I would venture to guess that in the past someone has pulled the dog house and the plug got pulled on them. I would start there and pull the cover (it isn't hard) and see if there is either a loose wire or a completely unplugged wire. If they are plugged in, I wouldn't know where to go from there except to check and see if the cig lighter is working and not the power ports or if both are out. If the cig works, but not the power ports, than they are on different lines. If both are out then there is a a fuse out somewhere (under the dash or under the hood). If you can't trace that down, you can always re-wire them to a different constant "hot" line or run a new fused constant hot line to them.
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