Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

If you experience loading issues with the login/register form, please completely disable ad blocker or use an incognito or in-private window to log in.

GMC Safari/Chevy Astro



  • How do you get the door latch out of the way to remove the upper bolt. The lower one is easily gained through the hole covered by the rubber plug. 1999 Astro LS.
  • Get a Dremal, cut off blade, cut a bigger hole to get to all through the side.(rear in)..door back panel..been there, done that..and still a PITA
  • So, drill or cut a new hole behind the door latch to gain access to the nut on the door handle
  • How do you get the door latch out of the hole it is bolted in. disconnect the rods to the controls does not allow it to be moved out of the hole
  • Remove the door panel first, see what you can get to. I had to replace a broke handle, not the latch, but to get to that, pop the bottom plug. Then I took a 3/4 hole, sawed a slot, just outside the middle inside latch bolt, slotted it out 3 inches up to get to the hand latch bolts. PITA. Mines a 91, so might be different, but doubt it
  • biffoonbiffoon Posts: 8
    I have a 04 astro and I can not add fuel, it keeps coming back out like air is trying to escape. Tried trick it in; no dice, try every other gas station; no dice. Something is strange is going on here and any advice would be great. Yes I checked if there was anything plugging it, fished a door spring down the spout and it was long enough to reach the tank and no problem. I am so baffled I'm pissed off.....
  • dbird89dbird89 Posts: 2
    Hey guys , i have a 97 gmc safari with the 4.3 vortec , and the fuel pump went out , so i replaced it , and it ran fine for like 2 days , then it started missing , and running rough , through all drive cycles.

    I also replaced all the plugs , wires , cap , button , filters , etc. , when i replaced the fuel pump.

    Now I go out to start the van and nothing , the engines just turns over and wont fire off. I checked the fire , it has fire at the plugs , i checked fuel at the check valve , and there was fuel there , but i dont have a pressure gauge checker , but it squirted fuel to the back of the van when i realeased the pressure valve, so seems like plenty of fuel there . This is my only vehicle and is needed badly , daily ...

    Please any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    Your wiring sounds like it is off. Or you have a bad plug or both. Check your wiring and see if you have a crossed wire somewhere. That will cause a misfire, no fire and rough running. Also a bad plug will cause a misfire and rough running.

    If you have fuel and spark, but no fire, then I highly suspect bad timing and since these newer motors can't be adjusted for timing, that leaves crossed wires somewhere. If the truck ran fine before you replaced stuff and the fuel pump went out, then go back over the things you replaced and test them out. Since it appears the fuel pump is good, check all the plugs, wires and cap and rotor. Somewhere in there is your problem since those are the things you touched before you had problems.

    From my own experience, I just did plugs and wires on two different vehicles. One vehicle (an '87 Blazer with a 2.8 V6) I replaced the entire ignition system. It ran terrible before i started, then after replacing everything, I couldn't even get it to fire. It turned out that a previous owner had installed the distributor wrong and my wiring was 180 degrees off. I adjusted for that and the truck ran perfect.

    I just did plugs and wires on my 04 Astro with the 4.3 and it was running terrible before I dove into it. Replaced all the plugs and wires and after, it still ran terrible. Even worse than before. I had a code reader with me and that helped to diagnose the problem. It turned out I had a mis-fire in the #2 cylinder bank. I pulled that plug and found a bad plug. Replaced that plug and it solved the problem. (it was also throwing a lean code, but that was related to the mass air flow sensor and wasn't affecting how it ran)

    So start with the things you just replaced. Check all your wiring, check your connections, check the gap (although I think the plugs required are a platinum pre-gapped plugg), check your firing order (you did replace one plug and wire at a time right?) and check your cap and rotor to make sure they are good. I remember having to re-use an old cap and rotor once on my 4.3 S-10 awhile back because the new one was wreaking havoc on the system. Start with that and see if it will solve your problem...
  • dbird89dbird89 Posts: 2
    hey big al, thanks for the reply , sorry i am just now getting back to ya , but have been overwhelmed , with my van still acting up and other stuff ...
    i just wanted to let you know that , the van run fine for like 2 days after replacing fuel pump , and all the wires, etc, and then it starting acting like it did b4 the pump replacement , rough idling , missing at all drive speeds , but if you like, mashed the gas , a good bit , it will clear out and run fine .. no power loss , or nothing like that , just at cruise speed and constant pedal , the missing is evident ...
    i rechecked all the plugs and gaps, and wires... gaps were fine , as mine calls to set at .60 , there was only one that was just a fraction off , reset them , all to correct specs... checked all wires for resistance , and they was in specs.. i have checked all the components , egr, pcv valve , iac, etc ... all are within the specs...
    as i stated in early response , the van now just doesnt want to start ... but after cranking on it for a good long while , it finally started up, and ran pretty decent but , still has miss in it ... :mad: i just dont know what else to do , as i am unemployed and was trying to get by, by hauling scrap metal , but now that has stopped..
    im scared to head out in it , afraid it will leave me on side of road somewhere !!! please , someone any info will , help to keep me from , burning this thing to the ground !! :) lol
    thanks and will be waiting for reply .... peace and take care ... =)
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    Your problem most likely lies with the things you touched prior to it having problems. If all the plugs and wires are good, go to the fuel pump. It may be that you have a bad pump. After that, if that isnt the case, i'm not sure where to go from there. It could be an ECU issue too??
  • shoretyusshoretyus Posts: 4
    What is involved in switching from Dutch to the 2 rear doors?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    Go look at a dutch van and a regular rear door van. See if you can tell what the difference is. I believe some welding of the upper hinges might be in order? I'm only saying that because there dutch doors utilize the lower hinges, but the "hatch" part has hinges at the top of the van, not the upper sides. So I would assume that since the opening is the same for both types, you would need to retrofit the upper door hinges. If they are bolted in, the bolt holes may already be there, just need the hinges to bolt in.
  • probably your fuel line... there's a connection above your exhaust, and if it leaks or corrodes, it will start dumping fuel on your exhaust
  • Been messing with the 91 Astro for too long on blower fan not working problems. Replaced the resistor in the box, replaced the speed selector switch, got it working again, but still sometimes quits, and get nothing. I did hear a click of what I think is the relay, square cube?, next too the larger rectangular box, above the fan on the firewall. Well, now its back to zip. I can get it fired up by taking the hot wire off the fan, put it on high speed, and on defrost, motor running, plug in and works. But if select any other speed, or off defrost, goes dead. I want to replace the relay, but I'm LOST, on how it comes off? Can't see any tabs to move, seems hooked a rear, so any help on this a "big thanks". Sorry the long post but as a wrench a long time (but lousy at electrics), the more info the better. Thanks in advance guys. Robby
  • OK, I got it off....DAMN, thats one STRONG CLIP!
  • saf96saf96 Posts: 1

    I own a 1996 GMC Safari. I am the second owner. It's been a great van. No major problems thus far. 115,000 miles as of today. I have a few things to ask maybe someone can give me some ideas.

    1. It idles rough. Like I'm in a monster truck. The dealership told me to replace my motor mounts causethe ones I had were trash and I did. It lowered the amount of rough idle but it's still rough.

    2. When I first start the van and pull out of my drive way onto the main road and give it gas to reach the speed limit, the car sems to loose power. It's as if me pushing on the gas peddle is causing it to stall.
  • Dude, find a new wrench. This here?..(It idles rough. Like I'm in a monster truck. The dealership told me to replace my motor mounts causethe ones I had were trash and I did. It lowered the amount of rough idle but it's still rough. ).......?

    Get to the "Symptom FIRST", not what the problem caused!
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I have a 2004 Astro. It has 130xxx miles on it. Sometime ago it began throwing a check-engine light (a mass airflow sensor code, among others). I have gone through and changed plugs and wires (not cap and rotor). It still throws the mass airflow code although I have put in a good mass air flow sensor and I am not sure why. It may be related to the other issue I am having though.

    In addition, it will run poorly until it warms up and even then it will still sometimes runs poorly. By poorly, I mean it has a real rough idle, surges while at stoplights and will even die at stoplights and stopsigns unless I feed it just a tad bit of fuel while holding the brake more firmly to keep the vehicle from rolling forward.

    I have found that it while it is likely to act up first thing in the morning, there is no rhyme or reason to when it decides to act up although... I have also found that if it does act up, I can shut the entire thing off (not wise in an intersection) cycle the key to the off position, cycle it back on and wait for the fuel pump to pressurize and then start the vehicle. It will then start just fine and run with no issues whatsoever. No surging, no rough idle, no threat of dying in the while stopped at at stoplight.

    I have also found that it is most likely to exhibit symptoms if I just jump in and crank. (Like we all probably do unless you own a diesel) However, if I get in and turn the key to "run" wait a few seconds for the vehicle to come to life, then crank, it is more likely to run with no issues. I have also found that at times, I will get in, it will be hard to start. It will crank and crank and crank with no fire, unless I floor the gas, then it will come to life and as long as I feed it fuel, it will run. If I let off the gas, I get my rough idle and sometimes it will even die before I get it into gear, or it will die as I put it into gear. If I start cranking and all it does is just crank with no fire, I can cycle the key completely off, then back on, waiting a few seconds and it will start and idle, run and drive with no issues.

    So in short, there is a rhyme and reason to when it acts up. If I just jump in and start the vehicle, it is likely it will act up and have serious drive-ability issues. If I jump in, turn the key to run, wait a few seconds for the vehicle to "wake-up", then it is more likely to run with no issues (although this doesn't work 100% of the time. More like 80%).

    Any ideas on what it could be? Fuel pressure is fine, plugs and wires are new. Mass airflow sensor is good.
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    Sounds like a fuel pump/fuel issue. I have never had wait for a modern vehicles fuel pump to pressurize before starting. It may just be the wire harness going to the pump. GM had some issues with fuel pump wiring on pickups and vans from the 90s and the Astro was pretty much unchanged from 1995 until it's death in 2005.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    but why would a fuel pump cause surging? a rough idle I could understand, but this is a surge. It surges from almost dying to about 600 RPM at idle. It does not surge while at speed or while feeding it fuel. My statement about letting the fuel pump pressurize might be mis-leading a bit. That is generally the length of time I let it sit before firing it up. You're right though in that I too have never had to wait for a fuel pump to pressurize. I just generally get in and fire away no matter the vehicle aside from diesels.

    One of the other things that it will do is that if is exhibiting issues, is that when I rev it then let off the gas, it will idle all the way down to almost dying and then usually it will die. Or sputter and come very very very close to dying and only by feathering the gas can I keep it alive. Again though, cycling the key off and then back on will generally cure all issues.

    Could it be an idle control valve??
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    Have you tried ready the codes from the computer to see if there is a problem with a sensor? Does the check engine light come on while it is running rough? You could also pull the neg. battery cable for 30 min to reset the system to see if it helps. Make sure to read the codes first because resetting the system will erase anything stored. I would try that before swapping out any parts.
  • I had simlar issues with my 2001 safari, 4.3 l engine. It, surprisingly enough, turned out to be the fuel pump. I would take it to (I cannot believe what I am about to say) a Chevy dealer and have their mechanics check it out. The dealership was my last resort but this might have been the one case in my life where I should've gone there first. They did a pressure test on mine and I think a vacuum test and it was a fuel pump issue. I replaced it and the trouble corrected.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    The only code it will throw intermittently is a mass airflow sensor code. It comes and goes and does it while driving. Not sure why it is throwing that particular code. I have swapped out 2 different mass air flow sensors and it still throws the code. No other codes are present.
  • littledllittledl Posts: 2
    I am a owner of a 1994 Chevy Astro EXT CL version which i bought brand new no major problems almost 300,000 miles on it in still running title
  • Driving my 1995 GMC safari home stopped at light it "chugged" and died now it will not start again. Sound like it wants to new battery and fairly new starter.

    any help would be great
  • I also have stalling problems when restarting within 5-10 minutes of turning engine off. Am happy with the features of the van, but very concerned about the reliability. Have been in 4 times in under 20,000 miles for the injectors only. Would be curious to know how t2muchjam got to the arbitration point. I wrote a complaint letter to GM last fall and received a form letter extending the warranty on the injectors only to 100,000 miles. Haven't followed up again, and now this past Thursday, it happened again.

    cheap plus one
  • I just purchased an '88 Safari van that has the split rear windows, and I've noticed that some of the newer vans have a full rear window with the split doors below. I was wondering if I could convert it to this with no problems, as I don't like the blind spot back there.
    I parked next to a newer SLE model just a few minutes ago that had them, and it looks like it can be done. The split doors seems to have the hinges in the same place. I'm concerned about the top full window.
  • i have a 94 astro van awd thats a steering colunm can a two wheel drive steering fit just need it from steering wheel to knuckle
Sign In or Register to comment.