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Audi allroad



  • kjq88kjq88 Posts: 1
    I'd be interested in the group's advice here. 2001 allroad with 50K miles. two major repairs in the last year (torque converter, air struct) cost about $4k to fix. :mad:
    love the car (or at least did until last year), but is this the beginning of large annual investments? If the car is going to cost me, say, $1K a year in repairs every year then it's time to move on. Time for this love affair to end? What would you do?
  • allrdrallrdr Posts: 1
    I have one too and love it... but, I think you should expect to replace the front suspension "bags" (~ $1100 each) in the next 10k - 15k miles. I need counceling on the keep or dump question as well.
  • jhodgesjhodges Posts: 1
    I have a 02 allraod that has started making a noise when the air suspension pump comes on. It sounds like a bearing noise. Someone told me it could be a spring clip or washer. Anyone have any info? I can not find anything on this problem.
    Thanks for any ones help.
  • djtwistdjtwist Posts: 1
    Hey bro, I live in Agoura Hills and I recently got a 2007 a4 2.0t and am extremly intrested in getting some flashing done to the ECU and I found that neuspeed is located in camarillo, I was wondering who you spoke with in service at rusnak audi westlake village, was it Richard by chance ? I am getting ready for my first 5k service and figured I could get it done afterwards but am still affraid of any warranty issues, and am also wondering what other mods I would be allowed to do without voiding something, I tried to send you a PM but was unsure how to do that on this board. THANKS!!!!!
  • wcc1968wcc1968 Posts: 17
    Local dealer has one listed with 69k miles for 18k.

    Would you buy a car with this many miles? The allroad?

    Im always hesitant to buy a high mileage vehicle, but for some reason this car is appealing to me. My other options are '03 A6 with 47miles, for 21k, or the '07 A4 with 11k miles for 34k.

  • hi, have an Audi Allroad quattro (2002 2.7T automatic) and am interested in the expected lifetime of this car. Re same car, the same repairs guy told me car needed thousands of dollars :confuse: in preventive maintenance, told spouse that car needed nothing and was good to get to 150,000 miles (has 85000 miles now and frankly I think it's spending too much time in the repair shop).

    Interested in what others think is expected max mileage for this car to be fairly reliable. Thank you!
  • Hi John, I have the same noise on my car. It has done it since I got the car 3 years ago, but only once in a while. Have you found anything out?


  • loveakloveak Posts: 10
    Hello all, My wife has told me that I need to get rid of my current trans. it's a 90 SHO and has finally rusted through.
    I have found a 2001 Allroad with 35k miles on it. It has a 6sp. Not to excited about the interior. (green) Looks like the inside of a gator, but it appears to be one owner Dr. It is in excellent shape. We have come to a price of $16,741.00 with the starting price of $18,999.00. Still seems that it is still about $500 over price, yes-no? It does not have the original tires but a set of snow tires, very good shape(tires drilled for studs but no studs)
    I know nothing about this vehicle-although the price seem ok. Worried about future bills in repairs. I have no idea about MPG. With the turbos it runs the expensive stuff which is about $3.30 gal here hopefully it'll do as well as my SHO that I really drive hard-20-21
    Ideas before I do some thing smart or incredibly stupid?
  • Need a shop to do an Allroad timing belt replacement - trying to avoid factory service - wondered if anyone here could recommend a mechanic. Thank you.
  • tomkorn1tomkorn1 Posts: 1
    my allroad has a vibration that that takes place when accelerating in 4th,5th and 6th gear from approx 60 mph up to 80 mph. the dealer technician went on a test drive with me and could not feel the vibration. he suggested a rear wheel balance. this was performed. it did solve the problem for 6 - 7 months now the vibration has returned. one other fact the vibration becomes quite pronounced after driving at highway speeds for an extended period of time. any ideas?
  • robeyrobey Posts: 2
    My lease on my '05 Allroad is up in a moth. I have 22,000 miles on the car. I am thinking of buying it at the end of the lease and would get an extended warranty and certifiication from my dealer. It's a great car but I've always turned back in my leased vehicles. Does it make sense to buy? Are they reliable? If I own it another 3 years will I have a hard time unloading it after that because it doesn't get great mileage? What's the best way to negotiate a better buy our with the finance company?

    I'd love some eperienced feedback.
  • robeyrobey Posts: 2
    I am thinking of buying my 2005 Audi Allroad at the end of the lease. There is one year left of factory warranty. The dealer is suggesting they buy the lease from finance company; they certifiy it and give it an extended warranty for 2 more years, I buy it from them at the same price as I would have from the finance co., plus the waranty price. Is this the right way to go? Or should I pursue this another way?
  • amb_123amb_123 Posts: 4
    The drivers footwell on my 2001 Alroad gets very wet in a heavy rainfall can see the water running down the back of the glove compartment. Has anyone had a similar fault, I am unsure wether to strip out from the inside of the car or start with removing the wipers and move down from the engine compartment.
    I have noticed that a lot of people worry about the mileage with these cars I have the 2.5TD V6 engine which I have owned for 3 years it has now done 128,000 Miles with nothing more than the annual service requirements. In that time there has been some minor faults like the rear washer pipe came off and one of the rear electric windows does not work, probably burnt out by the Kids. But apart from that I cannot fault it I still find it a pleasure to come to work in and there are non of the annoying rattles and squeaks that you get with lesser quality vehicles as they get older. I drove across black ice with children on board last winter and did not lose control unlike two other vehicles following which were complete right off''s. Saw a 2002 model adervtised with 250,000 on the clock. Diesel now costing the equivalent $9.34 per gallon in England, everyone is slowing down but hopefully not selling their Allroads..
  • mharwoodmharwood Posts: 7
    The drains in your battery tray are clogged. There are a number of holes in the area under the black cowl cover at the base of the windshield that eventually become clogged with leaves and other junk. You may find a significant amount of water in there. Feel around until you find the holes and pull out all the junk. I'm 99% certain this will cure your problem. It is common in the C5 A6 Audis.

    Hope this helps.
  • mharwoodmharwood Posts: 7
    Allroad resale values are in the tank, and will probably only go down. If your car is in good shape with low miles, depending on your buyout, it might be worth $17-20K. On the other hand, if you really like the car, buy it and drive it into the ground. There are many people with 100,000+ miles on the car, and with maintenance they are great cars. Eventually you'll have to replace CV joints and an airbag or two, but otherwise they're pretty durable and long-lived. CPO is a nice benefit, too.

    I just bought my 2004 2.7T with 22,000 miles on the clock and paid what I believe to be a higher-than-market price after doing some research. But I love the car and the sting of the high price was soon forgotten. I can't imagine a car I want more than this one.

    Hope this helps.
  • amb_123amb_123 Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice, going away on holiday this Thursday to Ilfracombe in Devon so will have a look then.


  • burgundy1burgundy1 Posts: 1
    For the second time I got into my AllRoad 2004 after a severe rain to find several inches of water. The first time the electrical system went haywire and I took it in for repairs which took aver a week. They told me leaves accumulate under the hood and the water has no where to go so it empties into the car. Strange! The same thing happened this past Thursday but my electricals seem ok for now. I cleaned out the leaves last week so the explanation they gave me seems unfeasible.

    Has anyone else had this occurence?
  • mharwoodmharwood Posts: 7
    Be sure to read through the previous posts here--I think someone else had this same problem last week and I gave them this same advice: The water is isn't in the engine compartment, it is in the battery tray. It's at the base of the windshield under the black plastic cowl. You have to get in there and clean out the drain holes with your hands. They tend to accumulate leaves and debris and flood the compartment. I guarantee this is the problem, although I'm at a loss to explain why your dealer didn't know about it--it is a very common problem with C5 A6 Audis. Fix it ASAP before it fries your transmission module. There will probably be several inches of standing water, and once you clear the drains, it'll come pouring out the bottom of the car as it should.

    Hope this helps.
  • This weekend I changed both my diverter valves for the 710N, While doing the work I found oil in the Charged Air Line of the Left DV. Is my left side turbo going? I have not noticed smoke coming out of the car, is there anything I can do to save the turbo? If not, can I replace only one turbo or does it have to be both?

    Car is a lighly used 2001 Allroad with 30,000miles.
  • The other day when I started my 2002 Audi Allroad and began to drive the car, it seemed like it didn't have much power. Then I realized there were 4 warning lights on the dash. I also realized the transmisson inidicator on the dash wasn't on letting me know if I was in drive, park, etc. I also realized the car felt like it was taking off in 3rd gear and wasn't shifting at all. I tried the manual tiptronic and couldn't shift the gears, couldn't down shift or up shift. Anybody have an idea of the what problem can be. A friend suggested it's electrical and perhaps disconnect and then reconnect the battery???????????//
  • maggimaggi Posts: 9
    Help! Our C5 allroad wouldn't shift from park into drive. We tried hitting the brake hard but the shift wouldn't budge. Car was put on a flatbed to the dealer. Dealer said there was rain water which got into the transmission as well as the master brake cylinder. Parts cost will be $3800+, labor obvoiusly much as well.

    I don't know a lot about cars but for sure the transmission and master brake cylinders are SEALED. We don't see transmission or brake fluid spewing out of them, do we? Then how was mere rain water get in? If water can enter these components, does this mean I cannot drive in the rain ... or take the allroad thru a car wash? What gives? Help!!!

    Frustrated in Greenwich ...
  • I have a 2002 allroad (99k miles) and have sunk $10,000 (since 85k miles) into it in the past year, includes timing belt ($1,500), 2 front air shocks ($1,800), transmission control module ($1,600, the dame part was $1,350 by itself) amongst other smaller repairs (by small I would say $800 is getting off cheap). I know they say don't sell in a down market, but let me tell you, SELL.
  • You just repaired the two well documented problems of this car, all other issues like timing belt, etc are scheduled maintenance repairs any other car will have, so keep the car and enjoy it for at least another 50k miles with no major repairs.
  • hils3hils3 Posts: 1
    I'm purchasing an 03 Allroad with 66k and I am looking for some feedback in regards to maintanence. What should I be concerned with? Timing belt? Air-ride systmen? I would also like to increase the HP, so I'm considering a chip or direct post program and sport bi-pass valves? Any suggestions? thanks
  • I just sold an Allroad 02 with about 100k. Had to replace: front air shocks ($1,800), timing belt at 85k ($1,500), the transmission control module ($1,650), and a few other things. Good Luck!
  • Dude,

    "15. Don't "warm up" the engine for more than 30 seconds EVER "

    DO NOT EVER start driving before 1 minute for NA cars
    DO NOT EVER start driving before 2 to 3 minute for turbo / supercharged cars

    2001 Audi allroad 2.7 BI turbo "chipped" (reflashed ECU) = 80 HP 110 TQ, same driving style 4 to 5 miles MORE per gallon...

    I drive to my girlfriends school on a weekly basis i use the same gas station every time. before chip i fill up going up then fill up when im back... now with it "chipped" i have 130 miles left to go. so i went from 330 miles PER TANK to 470 MILES PER TANK... and 98% of the drive in on cruise control at ~70/72 MPH

    As for my sparkplugs, i noticed that at first they were a little rich, thats because more fuel more air. after about 100 miles they were the same as before the reflash. shows the computer had to "learn"... O2 sensors were replaced about 3000 miles before i reflashed it, at the same time i checked over hoses and vacuum leaks. Everything was the same.

    so yes... the "chip" helps your MPG after your heavy foot becomes a feather again.

    "10. Use the premium platinum 4 tip spark plugs that are designed for your car "

    NOT recommended, depending on the car you might have a car with Coil On Plug, or Distributer. with coil on plug i would make sure you get the right temperature plug not if it has more cool looking electrodes. cars with distributers should do the most research, you need to consider things like;
    can your car electrical output the right volts.
    can your distributor module handle the extra watts
    will your ECU correct the timing and wattage needed for these plugs.

    if your car cant output the right volts then its worse on your ecc.

    if you want good economy;
    replace your fuel filter around 40k miles
    get a k&n air filter and clean it ever other oil change
    get the right sparkplugs (check forum on your model to see what gets best reviews)
    use heat wrap on your intake and headers (hot air = worse air/fuel mix = poor ignition)
    replace O2 sensors every 60k miles
    use recommended oil for your car and current claimants
    replace any leaky oil seals (leak = compression/emissions loss = poor economy)
    keep your car clean, clean = less wind drag
    inflate your tires 2 to 3 psi less then max (when you drive you will gain up to 5 psi depending on tire temp, keep it a little lower because if you curb your tire or hit a big pot hole you chance deforming the tire)

    These are the basics to get better economy

    if you want to get even better economy and better performance then...

    Cold air intake kit with thermal wrap and isolator box
    get headers and use heat wrap on them
    relocate the catalytic converter downstream or under the chassis (some cars are like this some have it right by the firewall)
    get high flow downpipes
    high flow catalytic convertor
    figh flow exhaust
    upgrade your ignition system or ECU or BOTH depending on your make and model (older cars with distributers and ECU (94ish to 99ish) do both)
    upgrade your fuel pump for 10 to 20 % more power
    replace injectors with = or > oem (turbo people google it NA people don’t go over 20 to 50 cc over stock)
    upgrade your fuel pressure regulator
    get larger wheels and lower profile tires
    remove all aftermarket body kits and wings
    get a wideband air fuel ratio gauge
    ( and for those who really want to get into it message me)
  • FronzFronz Posts: 1
    :confuse: Hi,
    Just bought a 2002 allroad with 50k miles on it. We have discovered a few issues that hopefully someone on this forum can help us with.

    1) Front heated seats way too hot. Can't even set over a 2 on the dial. Looks like a burn has occured through the lower section of the seat back. Any advise?

    2) Air suspension works but it does take 30sec - 2 minutes to adujust. It does however seem to hold. Is this normal?

    3) Sometimes when I back up for a good distance, a noise like a compressor comes on. It stays on for 15-30 seconds even after I stop the car. Any ideas?

    Is my car haunted?

    Any help would be very much appreciated?

  • As for the Air ride, it should take around that time. lowest to highest 2 mins and 40 some sec.

    The compressor is located behind the driver side rear wheel, it will come on to maintain your current ride hight. From my understanding when you unlock the car it should lower it self for easy of entry, and when you start the car it will turn on to bring it back to your settings.

    As for the seats.... i would take that down to audi. Sounds like the switch and or relay might be bad. I know my site on 3 will keep me warm, and on 6 its hot hot, but not to the point i want to ice my butt. And if the seat plastic is melting then you really know you have a problem, could be a short and or a ground problem.

    (sorry for any typeos on a iphone)
  • garthiegarthie Posts: 1
    hi, can anyone tell me how to remove the drivers side door panel, I slipped and broke the speaker cover and have a new one but can't figure out how to replace it.
  • pedro22pedro22 Posts: 5
    My (2005) allroad has rotten doors at the alloy strips ,as just out of warranty AUDI are not interested. Has anyone else got this problem ,Iwould suggest checking all ALLROADS for rust before your 3 year warranty lapses .I ve been told these cars are delivered to the dealers with celephane on the alloy strips , it is removed with a stanley blade when being prepared for the showroom .
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