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Subaru Legacy/Outback



  • You're right, that is exactly the problem. With a sedan the rear window is much closer so the view isnt as wide!

    That being said, the legacy also has a thick pillar and I find that bothersome.

    I can adjust my side mirrors so I guess I can see as wide as I need to
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    Short of getting a narrower width mirror, it will take getting use to. What I've done is adjust my mirror where both pillars shows up equally on each side. After a while, I don't notice them there anymore.

  • keith53keith53 Posts: 4
    Hi. Dumb question I know but how do you check the ATF level in a Outback ('01 6 cyl). The manual says there's a dipstick on the right side of the engine (looking from the front) near the firewall, but for the life of me I can't find it. Thanks for any responses.

  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    where the manual guided you, look farther down in the vacinity where the AT meets the engine.

    Finding it is one, getting to it is another.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Dip stick should be yellow, if that helps.

  • Thanks for the tip, but I guess my dealer is not willing to try this. As it is under warenty, I don't dare try to do anything on my own. I feel the dealer should fix it, but since it only leaks at this one car wash, they won't fix it. I am very disappointed with the warenty fix! Love the car, hate the service department I must deal with!
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    I've seen a name mentioned repeatedly but cannot recall it for the life of me. Who's the best for mail order Sube parts? I did a Google search and was lost in a jungle of aftermarket imitator parts, used parts, reconditioned parts and the occasional OEM part here and there. I want OEM Subaru front brake rotors. Thx

  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    Opinions will vary but I have had great luck with the two orders I have placed at 1stsubaruparts. They took my Subaru credit card dollars without any issues and I received exactly what I ordered.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487

    Pick the one closest to you with the best price.

  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,552
    Also, have a friendly conversation with your local Subaru dealer's parts department. Ask if they will give you a discount. "Mechanics / Jobbers" discount is usually 20% off list. I asked at my dealer about 12 years ago and have been getting the discount ever since; I don't even have to mention it as they give it to me automatically. :-)

  • jfljfl Posts: 1,386
    Ditto on 1stsubaruparts. They are in Washington state. I called them to verify part numbers, prices, and their address. Then sent Subaru bucks to cover the purchase.

    Also, you can look-up lots of parts on their site.

    Very pleasant experience.

  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    Thank you kindly

  • nic519nic519 Posts: 9

    I am interested in buying a used 97ish Outback.

    I have owned serveral Toys and have had nothing but great experiences.

    I have looked at the consumer rating for this year (97) on Edmunds and they are not particularly inspiring.

    Several people metioning alternater problems, the gaskets, eletical problems, and of course the recall on the suspension. Still, I am taking about a population of 14 reviews with maybe 5 bad ones. Thats high for the number of reviews.

    So, please help me by giving honest testimonials as to your experience.

    The car I am looking at is a 97 OB, LT and has I think 140k on it and is going for $3995. The odometer was rolled back and I don't know why, and that bothers me, but it fits the bill.

    Honestly, I want the car because it really meets my needs, but I can't buy something that I will be sinking money into. I have a great 96 LC with low mls that I am selling to cut costs in my life.
    Buying something that I will be sinking cash into is defeating the point. I need 2 years of trouble free ownership, after which the car could die and I wouldn't care.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Rolled back odo is a major red flag, I'd walk away, could be a real money pit.

  • rob_mrob_m Somewhere North of BostonPosts: 813
    I had to have my odometer replaced at 38k. The new one was set to zero, and there is a sticker on the door post.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Check for such a sticker, in that case.

    I'd want to see service documentation as well.

  • nic519nic519 Posts: 9
    I did a carfax on it and it looks like it had 120k on it in 2001-2002. It then went to a dealer, and sat there from March - November. The next inspection showed 70k on the odo. If the odo was replaced, I would imagine it should be zero, not 70k. I think it was rolled back somehow. There is a linear progression in milege till it went to the dealer for sale. I think they couldn't sell it with the mls it had and it was sitting around costing them $$$, so they cheated.

    I don't know.

    The car really siuts my needs and the price is right, and it has all the options, but I would rather buy it from a person who had all the maintenace records then a dealer with no idea.

    I do know that the previous owner had it for about a year then sold it to a private dealer. He bought it with the rolled odo.

    My inclination is that the thing Is a money pit - why else would the guy buy it and sell it so soon?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Too many unknowns for my comfort level.

    It is hard to find a used Subie for under $5 grand, though, even with high miles, unless it's more than a decade old.

  • rob_mrob_m Somewhere North of BostonPosts: 813
    I'd follow my gut impression and keep looking. There have to be quite a few used 96 - 99 Outbacks around.
  • nic519nic519 Posts: 9
    I aggree.

    So tell me, are these reliable?

    This is like a tacticle thing for me to save money. I want a used cheap car. It doesn't have to be particularly beautiful and high mls don't really bother me eigther - I don't do a lot of driving.

    My other options are a used pathfinder or 4runner.

    I'm comfortable with high mls on either of these because of there reputaion and my own personal experience, but I'ld rather have the OB.

    Are the OB's comperable to these others in terms of reliablity?

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It'll probably cost less to own and operate than either SUV, but to be honest a cheap FWD beater will cost you less if cost is all that matters.

    Honestly, I think with high miles what matters is how the original owner took care of it. I don't think you can expect a 4Runner or a Pathfinder with 140,000 miles to be reliable, not any more.

  • rob_mrob_m Somewhere North of BostonPosts: 813
    Im sure that everyone has had some type of problem at one time.

    I had a 96 Outback, traded for an 03 Outback at 85k. Did maintenance, tires and brakes. No other reason than wanting a new car. I have a 99 GT sedan with 110k. So far, maintenance, one set of tires at 40k and one set of brakes at 80k. I drive this 90 miles a day.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'd really consider spending a little more. 140k miles and any car or truck is pretty much spent. By that age *everything* is about to do. Exhaust, wheel bearings, water pumps, belts, hoses, etc.

    If you spend maybe $8-9 grand you can get a '98-99 with maybe 60k miles or so, plenty of life left in it.

  • nic519nic519 Posts: 9
    For 8-9g I can keep my LC.

    Thanks for the help.

    I have no idea what to do.
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,562
    ...are just painful, they're so expensive.

    The last clean '97 I saw on a lot was nice enough that I took a closer look... outback, leather, 5sp, all the stuff... 169k miles... for $5k.

    It seems everybody wants an older Subie snow car, and under $5, it gets ugly. Best bet is a '99 Legacy L or some such, should be significantly below $10 even with short miles... and then you better be sure the maintenane has been done... these ain't no Toyotas...

    Still, one of these days I'm gonna get me one.
  • The phase 1 2.5 engines have one major weakness:
    headgaskets. 97 is about the worst year with this problem. I would definitively stay away. It is possible that there is a mild/intermittent problem already and thus the car is changing hands so much.
    If you consider an used subaru, go with 2.2 engine (almost indestructible) or at least phase 2 2.5 (99 or 00+ depending on model) with the less catastrofic external HG leak .
    Good luck!
  • amsbearamsbear Posts: 147
    ... of course juice gets post #10000.

    98 OBW Ltd
  • I've read a lot about the gaskets - definately don't want that.

    So, you think an older or newer subi is a better bet?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It's true, Subies do hold their value well. Very well, actually, if you look here the WRX is best-in-class:

    I agree with jacek that the 2.2l is probably a best bet at that age. Look for a Legacy Brighton or L model from around '95-99, those might be a tad cheaper.

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