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Subaru Legacy/Outback



  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,861
    Ah, it would be nice to have a set of Thule or Yakima cross bars. I just have the factory crossbars on my Outback and they are quite sturdy even if they aren't nearly as versatile as the aftermarkets.

    A roof rack without crossbars is not particularly useful (except as an easy way to attach a set of crossbars); especially if it doesn't have protective strips upon which to place the cargo because you'll just rub all the paint off your roof if you use it like many of us do!
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Well, I'm picking up the new XT on Saturday. Pretty excited! I'll be sorry to see the '02 OB go, though. Only 15,000 miles! But that turbo won me over - and it seems so much more refined inside.

    Anything to watch out for or pay special attention to on delivery or in the first few hundred miles?

  • Rumor has it that keeping the RPM's under 4k, while strictly recommended, is *very* hard to do :)

    Just follow the break-in recommendations in the owner's manual for a good start. Other than that, I don't qualify to offer any other advice - I haven't bought a *new* car since my first Subaru in 1978!

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Older Forester (like mine) have those rub strips, but I still use the cross bars. The handles built-in to the roof rails serve as tie-downs, also.

    Subaru deleted both since.

  • How hard is it to install your the center armrest extention and/or the auto-dimming compass/mirror on a 2005 Outback?

    Some vehicles on lots near me don't have one or both of these features, but the part & labor cost to add them seems high. Is it worth it (e.g., for the electric hook-up for the rear view mirror/compass), or can it be done solo? Or should I instead only seek out vehicles with it pre-installed?

    I think that's my last question! Thanks, all, for your input and support. This is nervewrecking for me, being my first new car purchase!


    P.S. juice, did you see my email?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Got it, and replied just now.

    I think the wiring for the mirror is up in the headliner, pre-wired sort of. Most Subaru stuff is (like the subwoofers).

    Arm rest extension should be cake. I bet it's just a couple of bolts.

    If you struggle with either come by on a weekend and I'll help you install them. My Forester has about 20 accessories installed on it.

  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Juice is right, both of those accesories are easy to install.

  • I am very close to ordering from four Bridgestone Turanza LS-H P225/60-16 for my 01' Outback LTD wagon. Is anyone on this forum running these? How do you like them? They are Grand Touring type. Second choice for me is Bridgestone RE950. Comments please on these as well. has higher ratings on Snow Traction on the Turanza's. FYI I do not go off road at all as a planned event!
    As a question what is the recommended method to assure the wheel nuts are not over torqued? Some places want to use torquesticks ??
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    I can address the over torque issue. Either have them use a torque wrench, or do what I do, and loosen and then re-torque the wheels with a torque wrench before driving it.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487

    I have heard favorable comments about both tires. The 950 will definitely give you better handling, but will be a tad noisier and ride a bit harder than the Turanza. The Turanza will give you a cushy and quiet ride, but handling will not be as good as the 950. So I guess you can choose based on what's more important to you -- handling or comfort.

  • I bought the RE 950's for my 02. Love them!
    Tires are NOT noisy to me.
    Very good in the rain and at high speed (at least up to 80- mph! :-)
    Handling/traction in snow is good - not great (I have dedicated snow tires, so for me the *standard* fir "great" is much higher)
    Wear after the first 5,000 miles is very good compared to OE RE92's.

  • Hey everybody, I'm thinking about adding a subwoofer to my GT wagon with Sony CD deck. I was just wondering if I were to buy subaru OEM sub, would it work with that deck or I need to go aftermarket?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Hmm, it is pre-wired, question is does the harness you used have the correct wiring for the output in the Sony head unit. It should.

  • Well, I didn't install it, circuit city did as the deck was a present to me and included free install. I really don't want the sub in the cargo area, as I don't need a really powerfull one and I look at the OEM sub which should be good enough and suppose to fit under the seat.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Wow, then you'll pretty much only know if you try it yourself, or go back there to have them install the sub.

    I'd go aftermarket, honestly. Wait for a special where they quote an installed price, then let them worry about it.

  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Yeah, you will get a better sub for the money with aftermarket. However, if you want it to fit under the seat, the Subaru sub is the best bet for $175 or so.

    If they used a harness adapter to install the Sony deck (highly likely) then the sub should plug into it just fine. I ran the Subaru sub with an Alpine deck in my WRX and it sounded good.

  • Well, I browsed around some after marker subs and they just look too big and I really don't anything mind blowing and want to keep it under the seat. Any suggestions on where I should look?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If Craig is right I'd e-mail and get a price quote on that.

    But maybe buy locally so you could return it just in case it doesn't work.

  • So, do I understand correctly that Subaru Sub would be sort of plug and play if harness adapter was used?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That should be the case. The OE sub is self-powered, and power and the speaker cable are both pre-wired. So if the harness is the right one, it should work just plug-and-play.

  • Sorry if I'm asking too many questions, but I'm really not that knowledgeable about cars. Would I be able to see those wires under the pass seat and how would I know that they are for the sub?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'm sure someone here will answer. I've never looked.

  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    The sub comes with a harness that you (or the installer) route from under the seat, through the console, into the dash area behind the radio. The harness "tees" into the factory radio harness, and picks off speaker-level audio and power connections for the sub.

    As long as the factory radio connector is present behind the dash (as it would be if they used an adapter) the Subaru sub harness can plug into it and work just fine. Most radio shops use an adapter, so it's more than likely that the factory radio connector is present.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    In that case, I stand corrected. I thought the wires were already under the seat.

    The wires are present in the Forester's door for the tweeters, even if those are not ordered.

    Sorry 'bout that.

  • Thank you all for the replies. At the very least, I now have a clear picture of what needs to be done.
  • My hitch arrived yesterday, and I installed it last evening. About a two hour job. The instructions say to remove the two heat shields under the mufflers, but it looks like that is not needed.

    The reason I went with the Subaru hitch was the wiring harness. Not sure if aftermarket wiring would plug directly into the connector hidden behind the cubby on the left rear. I'd hate to fry something in the car if there was a short in the trailer or the aftermarket converter.

    My only gripe is that the drawbar is just a bit small for the receiver, and you hear some clunking as the trailer bounces around. I may try an aftermarket drawbar and see if it fits any tighter.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775

    I have an '02 OBW and installed the Subi kit as well. There is indeed some slop on the drawbar, and some thin splints of wood help reduce the noise. I also found that I needed to lower the ball height and so had to go with an aftermarket drawbar that had a large enough tongue that I could flip it over to lower rather than raise the ball. Everything gets quieter and better behaved if you have a bit of tongue weight. When the trailer is too balanced, it really makes the drawbar assembly knock around.

  • OK, this is a 'devil's advocate' question. The current issue on Consumer's Report says that 4WD and AWD is useful only in snow - and that it's 'not worth the extra money' for non-snow conditions. Any comment from board members here?
    (BTW, I don't own a Subaru - but I'm thinking of getting one).
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,788
    I disagree with CR on this, and I really surprised that they stated that, as they have said in the past that AWD is useful in the rain and on other slippery surfaces, and that it's a good safety feature to have.

    It's a well established fact that (full-time) AWD drive, like what Subaru, Audi, the new Acura RL, and a few others have, are better in the rain than RWD or FWD.

  • sdufordsduford Posts: 577
    Most people who try AWD never go back to 2WD.

    Nough said!
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