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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions



  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    Have you had your fuel pressure checked? Sounds like either a pump failure or filter problem to me.
  • Gindo:

    I have a 2001 T&C LXI; same thing is happening with it as with your Dodge GC. I saw something about a module. I also read something in Popular Mechanics about a Doge p/u truck with the same problem. A burned out module under the dash on the passenger side.

    That is all I know at this time as well. If I hear, I'll let you know. I hope someone has a solution!

  • Thanks for the imput!!

    ORIGINAL FUEL PUMP lasted 13 yrs, 1 mo. 2nd PUMP lasted 16 mos. 3rd PUMP lasted 6 wks. Now 4 wks into 4th PUMP.

    TODAY, went back to my local GOODYEAR Service Center which has done majority of recent repairs including FUEL PUMP, CAT, SENSORS, etc. They put in NEW IAC MOTOR.

    Car was fine after repair for most of day NOW SAME DAMN PROBLEM again but Hesitation, Back-fire, etc is much less than before.

    Any other ideas??

    This is getting frustrating with a vehicle that until now, 14 yrs, 8 mos, has been extremely realiable
  • Some further info

    Back to GOODYEAR today-- discovered that coil not putting out proper voltage & 2 cylinders misfiring.

    After replacing coil & MAP Sensor again still same problem

    CONCLUSION-- bad computer. Outside badly corroded & electrical harness connection not in great shape either

    Seems computer is mounted on firewall in such a position as to get constantly soaked in rain or snow :cry: :mad:

    What the hell were the design engineers thinking on this one? :mad:

    At least the computer is supposed to be less costly than the fuel pump :sick:
  • My 1998 Dodge Van from Canada has had 2 rotted brake lines in the last 5 weeks. no crash, but scary brake failure. Now the mechanic tells me that 13 more lines are at risk. time for a honda.

  • 2001 T&C Limited/80,00kms-I occasionally have the same problem with my ignition key. So far I have been able to just remove the key and insert it with the opposite side of the key. This has not happened for a few months now.
  • 2001 T&C LImited-You are exactly right. Without that longer drain tube installed the condensate is forced back against the firewall where it penitrates the drain opening around the tube and leaks inside on the passenger carpet area. Mine did the same thing until DC techs put the extension tube on the factory drain tube. There is a TSB regaurding this problem and your DC techs should be consulting these factory buletins before trying to make any repairs. I am certain that I won't have the wet carpet issue again.
  • 2001 T&C LIMITED 80,000kms -I too have had problems with the driver's heated seat since I took ownership at 21,000kms. Under warranty, they replaced the seat cushion heater grid a few times and when I insisted they repair this problem properly, they finally had to order and replace the whole seat back portion of the seat which retailed at $1700 Canadian. Further investigation on my part revieled that this was a common factory problem and the seat back heater grid is sewn in the assembly and can't be replaced separatly. The cost of the seat back is so high because,my van is equipped with side air bags which are part of the seat back assembly.
  • After having the car in the shop three times, this is the progress report:
    1. Repair shop claim on my receipt that they found the short by doing the following.
    2. Repair shop install a new ignition switch.
    3. Repair shop install a new safety switch.
    4. Repair shop install a new starter.

    After having the car for 20 minutes, Once again the car won't start, so the vehicle is tow, this time:
    5. Repair shop removed my car alarm b/c they claim that was the problem.

    I get the car back Friday night park in my garage the next morning, guess what...Saturday morning the car is back on tow to the shop!

    6. Since Saturday the car has been back in the shop.

    If anyone had this expirince with this vehicle, please let me know. :mad:
  • Take a look at the problems I'm having with my '91 Voyager!

    Your problem COULD BE a faulty AUTO-SHUT OFF RELAY

    Had that problem during the summer ( car wouldn't start-- initially CHRYSLER dealer thought fuel pump was bad) BUT I had dashboard lights

    Your Voyager has tons more electronics than my '91 version
  • Take a look at my Message# 3407

    THAT could be the problem OR the electrical harness connection to the computer which is supposed to be my problem
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    Feds Investigating Chrysler Minivans

    The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) is studying reports of airbag problems in the Chrysler Group minivans. The 2005 model-year vans, the NHTSA reports, could have front airbag sensors that fail, possibly due to corrosion. The agency has logged five complaints from owners who say their airbag sensors failed. The sensors for the front airbags are located behind the front bumper, and owners have reported the warning light for the front airbags had illuminated in their vehicles. More than 400,000 minivans are being studied; if enough evidence is presented, the safety agency could order a full recall of the vehicles in question.
  • The power tailgate on my 2001
    T&C will not open in cold temperatures. When activated by console switch it will unlatch but not open. Works fine in warm weather. Any experiences like this?
  • joeyojoeyo Posts: 1
    how do i turn off the "service engine soon" light myself?
  • You can dis-connect your (-) neg. baterry cable for 5-10 minutes, or if you don't want to lose your radio pre-sets, you can pull the 20 amp fuel pump fuse located in fuse box by the battery for 5-10 minutes. Did you find out why your check engine light is on, and corrected the problem? If not you can expect the light to return.
  • The power tailgate on my 2001
    T&C will not open in cold temperatures. When activated by console switch it will unlatch but not open. Works fine in warm weather. Any experiences like this?

    We have a 01 DGC EX and have the same problem. The gas lifters on the lift gate are weak from age and use. (Ours started doing this in fall 2004). I don't think this is a quality issue since it opens manually and stays up with out sagging. I've priced the gas lifters each for around $30-40 at Murray's. I will be replacing them my self soon. :shades:
  • dkaydkay Posts: 1
    99 plymouth voyager 3 liter service engine light code 22 I checked the heat sensor it has resistance same as a new one what else can i check ? DKay
  • The theft alarm light on the dash is supposed to turn off after 15 seconds on my 2003 3.8 ltr Town & Country (37k miles) but stays on constantly. Dealer said that the vehicle engine shouldn't even be running with it on - and another mechanic didn't know what was causing it. Is this serious as I have been driving around with it staying on.
  • 98 T&C check engine light comes on, auto shut down and fuel pump relay start clicking and it wont start. But as soon as the light goes out and the clicking stops- its ok to start- mechanic try diagnostic and did not pull a code! I have it back, light came on again but this time does not stall or clicking relays! any ideas?
  • I have a 96 plymoth grand voyager and have lost the tension pully on the ac unit. It is the one on the outside connected to the screw that goes up and down. Does anyone know what size it is so I can get a new one?
  • Anybody know how to check/replace the gauge cluster back light? I noticed on the speedometer, that a part of it is very deem as if a light went out. I'd like to see if I can fix it myself before taking it to the dealer.

    Thanks in advance. :)
  • I have a 2000 Chrysler Voyager.
    At 1st the blower would not work on the forth setting now it only works on High. Any suggestions, I checked the relay under the hood at its OK
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    It is a well known fault. The resistor pack is located on the firewall, on the passenger side, and usually a loose connector and/or corrosion is the problem. If beyond a cleaning repair, replacement (<$50) cures the issue.
  • hi i am having the same problem with my dodge caravan and i was told at the delership it could be the power distibution center and /or the headlight/daytime module. the cost is quite a bit if it is only one part it could be $400.00 if it is both parts you arenow looking at around $800.00 installed. my caravan is out of warranty by mileage but what about you is it under your warranty? next step is trying to locate through a scrap yard and hope it works for now. i just dond't know where the daytime module is located. do you know where fto find it under the hood?
  • hraohrao Posts: 78
    I purchased a 7yr/70,000 warranty for just $950 from the dealer when I bought my 2000 Yoyager, so far no problems, but I would recommend that everyone purchase a extended warranty it just gives your peace of mind.
  • my sister has a 1994 short body dodge caravan with 150k miles. the single (manual) sliding door on the passenger side has broken, is inoperable and requires major work welding, etc. $360 estimate.

    she is going through a costly divorce and if possible wants to avoid repairing the door. she definitely is not in a position to junk the vehicle either.

    she is willing to have her children climb through the passenger door, and climb back into the seats, and exit by doing the reverse. Note: she has 5 children, aging from 2 to 13.

    question: from a safety perspective, is this a concern? Is the sliding door considered a safety exit? or can she have it bolted or welded shut (to avoid someone accidentally pulling it off, causing injury.

    concerned big brother asks for your input.
  • Hi.. just thought I'd chime in that we had the same problem with our 03 Caravan (you described it perfectly, by the way). The dealer replaced the sway-bar links the first time, but the problem was still there. They ended up replacing the whole rack & pinion. Thankfully it's still under warranty! :shades:
  • We have an 03 Caravan and had the power steering hose (or whatever that was) replaced when we got the recall notice. Not long after, maybe a couple weeks or so, we started noticing a low whine when the van was cold. It would get louder when we turn the steering wheel. We checked the power steering fluid, b/c I know it'll whine if the fluid's low, but it wasn't.

    Now, it's a little worse on start-up and while still cold, but it goes away when the engine is good and warm. We're taking it in to the dealer soon, just wondering if ya'll had experienced anything similar so we'll know what to expect. Thanks!
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 227
    John, I would think this would be somewhat of a safety issue and if I were facing this situation I would get one of the emergency exit tools like those advertised by AAA - the hammer end has a pointy side for knocking out glass. In my Caravan, there are 4 side windows that all are hinged at the front and have a buckle/tether at the rear. If one needed an emergency exit and had a tool to break the tether base free the window would swing open providing a wide emergency exit. Roy
  • replace the plugs, or plug #6
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