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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions



  • The rear drums are what the rear shoes push against to stop the car unless you have 4 wheel disc brakes.
    Auto zone sells two types either $62 or $28 foe each one. the lower priced drums can't be resurfaced
  • gino45gino45 Posts: 52
    Well, I chose the ceramic pads. I'll let you know in 50K :D whether they were worth it. BTW, I had the dealer flush the brake fluid and I noticed that after the work was done the fluid in the reservoir was still an amber color. The dealer said that due to dirt being stirred up while flushing the system the color would never be as clear as the fluid color when the fluid is in it's original package (bottle). Any truth to that?
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    I recently bled my brake fluid at each wheel, the old fashioned way, with a helper applying the brakes while I opened and shut the bleeder screw. We did this until the fluid ran clear at each wheel, yet the next day, the fluid in the reservoir was an amber color also.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    For all you mathmaticians and computer geeks out there, tomorrow our 1998 DGC will hit the binary mileage reading that equates to 3F% Hex (or 077 Octal). Said another way, it will take another 888,889 miles before I see another binary display on the odometer. I'm thinking that as much as this old van has been a good reliable workhorse for our family over the last eight years, we probably won't keep it long enough to see that next binary display. ;-)

    So, for all intents and purposes, "Bye-bye Binary!" :shades:

    Best Regards,
  • dogleg1dogleg1 Posts: 4
    Anybody know where I find heater system wiring diagrams for this vehicle ? Thanks.
  • aprendizaprendiz Posts: 17
    Any wiring diagram for door ajar system Voyager 2000? or how deactivate it?. Found nothing in Haynes.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    If your door ajar light stays on, it is probably just one of the door switches gone bad. Very easy and inexpensive switch to change out, at least for the front driver or passenger door. One screw and one electrical connector, and when you put the new one in, it is self adjusting for plunger height.
  • aprendizaprendiz Posts: 17
    4 sw seems to work properly as tested individually. Fault is intermitently. That's why I'm looking for the proper wiring diagram.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    The switch on the drivers' door of our 1998 failed last year. Said failure was intermittent and very annoying. I bought a new one from my local dealer for a whopping $8.00 and installed it. The installation consists of a single screw and a single clip-on wire, it took all of 1.5 minutes. ;-)

    Best Regards,
  • gregmangregman Posts: 24
    Don't have paperwork for a proper explanation, but the recall apparently was to replace a/c hoses. Glad it was on Daimler Chrysler as it had to be spendy.
    Questioning the dealership about the wiper motor recall revealed it it true, but they will call when the motors come in.
  • olddadolddad Posts: 1
    HELP--I can't open my hatch back,vandals broke the key lock trying to enter my 93 dodge caravan.
    The key won't work now. Any one know how I can remove and replace that key lock assembly with the hatch back closed and locked.?
  • jboehmjboehm Posts: 44
    Check engine light came on the other day. The error code that I am getting is P1684. I have found a couple of sites that have generic DC codes (one was specific to the PT Cruiser). Those sites say that that code means "The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts". As far as I know this has not happened (battery was replaced about 2 years ago). Can someone confirm that the description is correct for this code? Thanks!
  • zlfanaticzlfanatic Posts: 18
    I have a 1996 Dodge Caravan 3.0 that I can't seem to get rid of a miss at idle, my scanner says a miss at number five and multi-cylinder miss. I have changed dist. cap, rotor, coil, wires and plugs and I also sprayed my throttle body out with cleaner. After I change an item the miss goes away for a short while then comes back. I'm about at my wits end, anyone have this happen. Any help would be appreciated. :cry:
  • deeksterdeekster Posts: 4
    I have a problem with my spark plug socket getting onto the spark plug. The engine is a 3.0 Liter engine. Do I need a special socket to change the spark plugs? There is not enough space in the spark plug chamber for my socket to fit on the plug. The plugs I purchased need a 13/16 socket but they seem to be to large. Can someone help.
  • carlh3carlh3 Posts: 1
    Recently acquired a low mileage one with a brand new handicap conversion. My wife usually sits in the rear passenger seat, as it is easier for her to get in and out using the power ramp. The hot water lines are apparently right behind the panel there beside her leg and under the arm rest area, and gets quite warm, even though we have the AC running. The conversion folks assure us they do nothing in that area, and showed us one in the shop that was gutted for the conversion to start. They also checked ours to ensure that the factory insulation was in place. It is pretty sparse insulation.

    Is anyone having a similar problem? Seems that the hot water is there all the time, regardless of whether heat is on. Has anyone done anything to overcome the problem?

  • tblantontblanton Posts: 1
    We have replaced the transmission twice in the last 6 years. Problems started this way:
    First it would seem to down shift.
    Secondly it would be really hard to put into park.
    Thirdly, was forced (I guess) into a gear and would not start up again. We do beleive we have it in park (it will not move) but it still won't start. I have been told that I need to replace the transmission coil, linkage, cable. Not sure on how to do this.
  • cshewardcsheward Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.3L engine. Here's the problem. On hot days(90 degrees or higher)my van vapor locks when the air conditioner is on. The engine temp is normal. If I don't use the air everything is ok, no problems. But if I use the air conditioner after about an hour the engine vapor locks. It has me baffled. I live in minnesota by the way, so it's not like i'm in the mountains or anything like that. Aren't you supposed to be able to use air conditioning when it's hot out? I would appreciate any help in this matter. Thanks.
  • cshewardcsheward Posts: 2
    Read msg 3904. Does this sound anything like what happens to your van? Did you find a solution? If so please let me know how the problem was resolved. Thank you
  • Hi,

    My name is Garry And I am new to this forum or any forum for that matter. A friend told me this was the place to come for info on my problem so I hope some one can help me.

    I have a 95 plymouth voy van and my wife was driving it and it started to lose power and slowing down so she pulled over and stopped, the van was still running she shut it off and it would not start up again. I had it towed home and began checking it out and found that there is no power getting to the coil.

    Any thoughts?
    :cry: Garry
  • dkuklisdkuklis Posts: 2
    I've got a '97 Chrysler T&C mini van. Within the first 10 miles when the engine is cold the van will loose power then immediately catch back on. Sometimes the tach will show a dip in RPM. If this happens while stopped the car will stall. It happens at any speed. Electic is not effected. I've had the trans rebuilt, some kind of emissions valve or sensor replaced and the throttle body cleaned. Ideas?
  • How do I know if some one has replyed to my post
  • BY checking back here to this forum. Or better yet, click on the bookmark and then you can save your message and go back to it to see if someone has replied, like I just have. :)
  • Okay, I'll skip over the how much I hate 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan - and go right to the trouble. 1 week ago driving, suddenly the voltage light comes on, gauges on dash start blinking, fuel gauge goes up and down, odom. digital read out starts flickering, car bucks once or twice. Get home.

    next day van hesitates when starting then starts up. drive to local mech. - really good people and have always been honest with me. they can't fit me in but check the battery - fully charged, all ok. Voltage light does not come on. Drive back home, voltage light comes back on when driving after 20 min. gauges are acting up again. Take it back into mech next day - they get a trouble code P1594 "overcharging" - but not sure what is going on. They bring in an outside guy who does nothing but diagnostics to run a diagnostic on electrical system. But they are still unsure what cause is. Voltage light is not coming on for them. They think it is either, Alternator, regulator or something in the computer.

    Pick car up. all orange indicator lights on the AC and fan buttons are all blinking. Car still drives but every now and then voltage light comes on and gauges blink or needles go up and down.

    Then went to start car today, turned key in ignition - nothing, not even a clicking sound. Tried several more times and on fifth try, it started right up!

    I'm thinking I have to take it into a dealer. Not sure which I dislike more, my Dodge Grand Caravan or my dealer who overcharges me.

    Would appreciate ANY advice. Am I looking at a whole new alternator or computer?


    P.S.( We recently bought a Toyota Sienna - not one single problem)
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 227
    Garry, You are likely to need a maintenance manual published by Haynes available at larger parts chains like Auto Zone. These have the electrical diagrams to trouble-shoot your problem. You will also need an electric multi-meter. A good digital one will cost about $20.00. Be sure you have sharp probes which easily penetrate a wire insulation to sense the voltage or resistance being tested. Off hand, the likely problems could be a blown fuse or a problem with the ignition switch. A broken wire is possible but less likely. Alternately and quicker would be to take the vehicle to a mechanic you trust or specialist offering auto electric work or to a dealer. With a vehicle of this age, a good mechanic is very valuable. If you don't have a friend to give you a recommendation, try , "mechanX files" on the home page. Roy
  • mrbizness1mrbizness1 Posts: 93
    This sounds exactly like the problem I had with a Maxima alternator. One minute it was putting out 15 volts the next minute 11.5 volts. Three Maxima alternators I had Pep Boys install in a month all had the same problem, bad diodes. Took the car to a Nissan dealer and had them replace it with a factory re manufactured unit, End of problem. Caravan alternators are controlled by the computer.
    The a/c fan control lights could be on from the battery being disconnected or going dead. Mine came on when I had the battery changed. I think those lights can also be used to diagnose problems. Dealers can be expensive but the
    techs are usually more familar with the cars the dealers sell.
    good luck
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Anyone else get a recall notice? I received one in the mail yesterday regarding some defective fuel lines (?).
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Posts: 419
    I have had this code for the last 2 years. It drives me nuts because I have actually disconnected the battery just to get rid of the code. However, a day or two later, it's back.
    Since the van drives fine, I just haven't felt it worth the money to have the dealer poke around with no assurance that they'll find the problem.
  • mrbizness1mrbizness1 Posts: 93
    Disconnecting the battery for a short time may not clear the code. As per the Haines manual. " do not disconnect the battery to clear the codes, it will erase the stored operating parameters from the memory and cause the motor to run rough for a time while the pcm relearns the information. The best way to clear the code is with a scan tool"
  • austinroyaustinroy Posts: 1
    I just changed the water pump, checked the timing multiple times, but still has no spark.
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Posts: 419
    I had heard this but didn't notice any difference in driveability. Same when I replaced the battery as a precaution.
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