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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions



  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    If the trans is stuck in 2 all the time it could be in limp mode. If it is, the fix is to replace one or both of the transmission sensors, a relatively inexpensive fix. Input speed sensor, output speed sensor.
  • gebalindgebalind Posts: 1
    My 97 Grand Caravan steering wheel/column has a rubbing/groaning/creaking noise when I turn the wheel, only in hot weather. I had this problem with a Ford Escort I owned. I park outside year-round, and this problem only happens when it's around 80 degrees and up. I read this could be a dry rubber bushing and that you can add graphite to help the problem. Does anyone have information on this or where/how to add the graphite? Thanks.
  • andrespandresp Posts: 4
    I have the same problem, same minivan, same year, 290000 km, did any one found the solution? :confuse:

    please help. :)
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Posts: 419
    The problem may not even be electrical since you have hit almost all of the possible items. The computer looks for minute changes in engine speed each time a cylinder fires. If the engine doesn't accelerate when a particular cylinder is supposed to fire, it sets the code for that cylinder. Another potential cause could be issues in the valve train such as a bad/burnt valve or a problem with the camshaft.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    from NAPA (please recheck before buying)
    Tranny input: MPE TSS200SB / ECH TSS200
    Tranny output: MPE TSS100SB / ECH TSS100

    P0500, P0720, P0700, limp mode codes
  • andrespandresp Posts: 4
    The 25 amp ENGINE fuse keeps blowing on my 96 Plymouth Voyager, between1 to 10 minutes after start. :confuse:
    I've taken the car to the Dodge dealership, and they can NOT find the Problem. :mad: This is no surprise by the way.
    Has anyone had this problem before? What is it? and how it was resolved? :)
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 227
    Mike, I had a similar problem with a '96 Intrepid. After my independent mechanic checked the things you've done, he tried cleaning the fuel injectors without correcting the code, a dealer diagnosed a leaking intake manifold gasket. This repair corrected the cylinder misfire code. Roy
  • denise5denise5 Posts: 9
    My 2002 grand caravan was getting stuck in second gear also. There were 2 sensors that needed replaced. $215+ to fix. They tell me now that the motor mount is broken and needs to be replaced. Total for all to be repaired...$507+. How does the motor mount break? The car is only 41/2 years old. I had the transmission fixed last year. The car dealership was going to charge me $1900. I called the Daimler Corp. and they got the cost down to $540. I hate this car........
  • coderedcodered Posts: 43
    hello,,,i have a 01 grand caravan......but i have water coming under the told the heater core in driver side.....but water drops on pass...any info would be great...... thanks,
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Posts: 419
    Assuming it is water and not water/antifreeze, be sure the drain off the AC evaporator is clear. When you run the AC, you should see water dripping onto the ground.
  • 1heinz71heinz7 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 grand voyager since new, after an hour in heavy traffic the radio goes off, the wipers don't work, power windows don't work ,a/c climate doesn't work.
    If the switch is turned off every thing works fine. Went to the dealer and after five days said he couldn't find any thing wrong. any help would be very much appreciated.
  • ewcooperewcooper Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Grand Caravan that has developed a interminent problem. While driving steady at about 50-60 MPH the van starts to lose power almost like it was a carborated engine that went to full choke. RPM's drop to 800-1000, check engine light comes on at first steady and then starts to flash. Dealer has looked at the van three times to the tune of 2200.00 dollars so far with the problem arising again. They have replaced the following items: Plugs, wires, coil pack, fuel filter, both O2 sensors, cataylic convertor. Cleaned the entire fuel system from tank to injectors. All three times that they scanned the system it comes back as a multi-fire mis problem. Anybody have any ideas
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Posts: 419
    I would hope for $2200 that the dealer would now find and fix the problem for free. It sounds like they are nearly totally incompetent when it comes to troubleshooting and are from the school of "Gee, let's try this and see what happens".
    My guess would be the fuel pump but it could also be a grounding issue. They should be able to run a diagnostic on the fuel pump to see if it is delivering the pressure and volume it is supposed to.
  • I have a 2001 T&C driven 75,000 miles with a 3.8L engine and 6 mos on a new battery. The starter would turn the engine normally but the engine would require several revolutions to start, the driver's window would refuse to close on occasion, and the right powered sliding door would or would not operate at times.
    I took a close look at the battery’s positive terminal connection. I removed the clamp and applied a piece of medium grit sandpaper inside the large terminal hole of the clamp to remove tarnish and get down to bare metal. Next, and this is the IMPORTANT part, I likewise sanded down to bare metal the side of the battery terminal clamp where the 2nd, smaller cable mates. Finally, I sanded to bare metal the side of the smaller cable’s grommet where it mates to the larger cable‘s newly sanded surface.
    After bolting the battery cable connection to a polished battery post, the starter turns the engine faster, the engine starts within a half revolution, the driver’s window zips up and down , and the power sliding door does its job normally.
    To finish the job, a layer of old fashioned grease (Vaseline works fine) was applied to the whole assembly to prevent air from getting to and tarnishing the newly cleaned connections. Do not use a spray-on lube as it will penetrate between the mated surfaces and act as an insulator.
  • llarosallarosa Posts: 1
    I have an 02 with the same issue. I read another forum where someone said it has a TSB, (which I cannot find) and maybe the dealer should fix it. They have to extend the drain hose or somethign like that. Does anyone have any more information? Is this a difficult area to work on in the van? I mean can I do it?
  • Trashman - Had the same problem with my '93 Voyager. Replaced the sway bar, links, bushings and motor mount. The problem seemed to be worse at first, but as the new equipment wore, the noise wasn't as bad. There is stilla clunking though not as bad, but the mechanic tells me that this is because these pieces are new and tight, it will continue to make noise. Hope this helps.
  • joonjoon Posts: 121
    You can buy a good used head unit (radio/cassette) for under $10 on e-bay if you're lucky. I did. Or, if you want to upgrade to a radio/cassette/cd player, the going rate was about $100 a few months ago.
  • rpaluckrpaluck Posts: 1
    I have a similar, if not same symptom. I have changed the battery, and ignition switch. Get yours fixed??
    I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport, 89K miles.
    Intermittent loss of accessories (wiper, radio, blower) ONLY
    when starting car.
    Always works in accessory (non-run) position.
    Problem goes away on its own in run position, and usually
    will stay on until next start cycle. I cannot find shock sensitive
    relay or loose harness in area of ignition column.
    No "dead spot" apparent in ignition key area.
  • jfenzajfenza Posts: 1

    I have a similar problem with my 2003 Dodge Caravan. I am requesting you to share with me any tips you received to fix the problem.


  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Pretty much for any vehicle built with fuel injection since the late 1970s you should have a humming noise from the gas tank area. Why? Most (if not all) vehicles with fuel injection have an electric fuel pump either on or in the gas tank. Assuming the pump is in the fuel tank (as I believe is the case with DC MiniVans), you will definitely hear the humming noise, especially when the tank is nearing empty.

    Best Regards,
  • I'm anew member and I was reading the post and saw yours, I have a 01 grand that was doing the same thing had it to the dealer 3 times. could not find anything wrong. Then they got a new mech. the 4th. time I was there he heard the problem. and put a new ignition sw. in and it sovled the problem.
  • mikew58mikew58 Posts: 10
    Anyone know right off the top of their heads what size chrome lug nuts a 01 GC with steel wheels takes?
  • fantascpfantascp Posts: 175

    My Son is going on vacation- He has a 2000 Plymouth Voyager Van- Can you remove the cross-bars on the luggage rack so we can use a Sears-X-cargo luggage container instead?

    The 2 sliding cross bars are not far enough apart to allow the X-cargo to sit flush on the roof-

    Thanks for any help.
  • Take one lug nut off the wheel and use at the store you are buying the replacement lugs, to get the correct size. :shades:
  • mikew58mikew58 Posts: 10
    Thanks, but actually I was buying for a vehicle that was not available. They are 12 X 1.5. :)
  • juanhjuanh Posts: 1
    have you got any solutions? becasue I have the same problem.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I did a search on this and didn't find any hits. Hmmm, could ours be the first? Not likely.

    So, over the last week Mrs. Shipo has been complaining that the left side power sliding door of our 2003 DGC ES has gotten very stiff when operated manually. I tried it and sure enough, it operates perfectly normal in power mode, however, opening and shutting it in manual mode is rather difficult taking a fair amount of arm strength to slide the door along the track. Having never taken the mechanism apart my first inclination is to suspect a problem with the "Star Wheel" disengaging from the motor. Does this device have some sort of a clutch or does the motor free-wheel rotate in manual mode?

    Any of y'all ever had this problem before?

    Best Regards,
  • canniscannis Posts: 1
    Posting here for first time with other problems...but, have noticed recently that my 2001 t&c left power slider is also stiff when used manually...nothing like the old doors gone bad, but definitely made me wonder. No trouble with power locking (to complete close) and like Mrs. Shipo's, works fine in power mode...might help to know that hers is not isolated case...................MAIN TROUBLE: ...
    windshield replaced, next day outside thermometer reads all over the place, including way below zero...was hot day here ... trip to dealer for service, replaced sensor in front bumper ("was broken...hole in it") though I never banged the bumper...still not working when I drove it away, next trip and next trip to service and module replaced, then "burned out with short in wiring" so replaced again, then wiring "replaced" to bypass short...drove away, STILL not working...causes heat to come on, then air, then heat, depending on "outside temp" to deal with inside thermostat setting (i.e. 72F), picked up Thursday eve, not working, driving it because I have to, and temp reading slightly less eratic (weather been cooler here), and tonight, missed family reunion due to coolant temp registering overheat, though engine not very warm, plenty of coolant...oh, passenger side power window has not worked properly for weeks...also, seat heaters replaced on recall notice few days before windshield replaced by local glass company, compliments of service center due to broken on their lot when I bought it (used). Extended warranty probably expired by now...70,000 miles, I think...though unsure if this electrical problem covered, anyway.
    Any ideas?
  • does anyone know where I can find the housing for the evaporator.
  • jdvoigtjdvoigt Posts: 4
    I had my evaporator replaced, and they mechanic had to pull the dash. It's basically behind the dash along the firewall...
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