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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions



  • otis9otis9 Posts: 8
    I haven't found the problem yet.
    I talked to a guy at my local auto parts store that said he had one with the same problem.

    He suggested it might be a burnt or corroded wire from the battery to the starter.
    He said to check or bypass the 2 wires & it should solve the problem.

    I ran out of daylight when trying to work on mine.

    Hope this gives you a clue (and me too!).

    Too bad we can't buy hunting permits for used car salesmen like we can deer!

    Please let me know if you learn any thing. :sick: :mad:
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Posts: 419
    The emergency brake, ABS and traction control off lights came on while the radio, wipers and HVAC were off at the same time. As I turned the van off, the radio came back on and everything started working. This also happened today first thing but not since.
    Since I'm presently in the backwoods in Maine getting ready to travel 1100 miles back to Illinois next week, I'm not near any wiring diagrams that I could check for a common link. I'm leaning towards the ignition switch or perhaps a master relay of some sort but I wondered if anyone had any insight into this.
  • stanm1stanm1 Posts: 2
    So, I want to remove the drums from my 2002 Grand Caravan. Normally to accomplish this, one pulls the little oval plug and rotate the starwheel to loosen them off. The problem is that behind the plug on my 2002 GC all you see is the parking brake cable! :confuse:

    Anyone have any ideas as to how to loosen the shoes off so I can remove the drum? Or how to get the parking brake cable out of the way so I can access the starwheel (assuming it has one?)
  • guestguest Posts: 770
    Did you note that there are two threaded holes on the front side of the brake drum? Put an appropriate sized bolt in each of these holes and they will serve as a puller to remove the drum. Just tighten the bolts and the drum will come off.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    The star wheel is there, behind - slightly below the cable you see. That being said, I doubt the brake shoes are preventing drum removal. Use the 2 bolt method previous poster mentioned, when bolts are tightened, the drum will push off the hub.
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    The first step is to loosen the hand brake cable by using a pair of locking pliers on the divider bracket. This is on the driver's side, about halfway down. Here the cable from the pedal insiude the cabin is attached to a bracket that then pulls on two cables, one to each wheel. You have to pull on the single cable, and apply locking pliers so that there is slack in the two cables going to the wheels. Then the star wheel assembly will be reachable since the part of the cable inside each drum loosens enough to move away from the line of sight.
  • I have a 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan with 146,000 miles. Today I was driving at about 35 mph and the car lost all power. The gas peddle, and steering wheel were locked like if the ignition was off. I pulled over,turned the key off then on, and the car was fine. A couple of days ago the auto door locks would not unlock. Could these two things be related? Anyone know why it lost all power while I was driving? I like to have some idea before taking it in.
  • I have a problem. I just moved overseas and had my vehicle shipped here. Unfortunately a weasel like animal sometime along the journey, climbed into the engine compartment and tore part of the insulation away from the wall that seperates the passenger compartment from the engine. I found out when it started smoking the first time I drove it - needless to say I was terrified thinking the car was going to start on fire. Now I am afraid to drive it even though I have pulled all the loose pieces out of the engine area and cleaned it all off - can I replace this stuff or is there something that I can use to secure what is remaining so it won't fall onto the engine block starting the smoking or a fire all over again. I honestly don't know if this stuff will start on fire but I am too afraid to take the risk - this is my only vehicle at this time and I really could use some help since I am going to have to take it to a German Chrysler dealership for any type of repair. I don't want to get taken advantage of, nor do I want to burn up in a ball of flame on the road. Help please??
  • lar4lar4 Posts: 6
    what is all involved in repacking the front wheel bearings in a 88 caravan? what the van is doing is a lot of road noise and all I can think of is front bearings if there may be another problem please let me know. Thanks for your time.

  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    If your front wheel bearings are making noise, the bearings are already beyond help and need to be replaced. Repacking them cannot repair a damaged bearing.

    However, other things could be contributing to excessive "road noise" such as tire problems, CV joint issues, etc.
  • has any one ever changed the inner tierod ends on an 01 caravan? if so how bad was it? thanks
  • I have a 2001 grand caravan, I have approx 44100 miles on it-I'm looking to purchase an extended warranty from a reputable dealer where i can bring it to get serviced at a dodge dealership. Any body able to provide me with dealers either online or not that have great prices & great coverage.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I am not sure you can buy a Chrysler warranty at this point, given your vehicle is a 2001 model. However, several Chrysler dealers sell warranties over the internet. Check out:
    Good luck.
  • I have Plymouth Grand Voyager 2000. I notice intermediate many electrical problem

    1. My passenger side window regular stop working

    2. Bigger problem is my lift gate lock remins in lock position not able to open i.e. can not close

    Any advice ?

  • mfahey1mfahey1 Posts: 419
    Does anyone know how much ATF is needed when you just drop the pan? I could have sworn I saw it somewhere in the owner's manual but can't seem to find it now.
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 227
    At least through '99 or so it is about 4 quarts. I can siphon 3.7 quarts from my wife's '95 which I do as low cost preventive service, once every 10K. I think this is about 1/2 of the system capacity. As you probably know, replace with DC equivalent fluid. I use ATF+3 in the '95. Roy
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Posts: 419
    Thanks for the information although I don't know for sure if 2001 used a higher capacity, especially with the towing package(which I forgot to mention if it makes a difference).
    ATF+4 is what is recommended for our year.
  • otis9otis9 Posts: 8
    Found the problem with yours yet?
    I tried by passing wires to the starter with no luck.
    All fuses (that I can find) test good.
    Still no good info as to the problem here.
    Mine is ready to be scrapped out at 90,000 mi! :mad:
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    You may have noticed that we're moving toward smaller, more focused discussions, and a number of those have already been created for this vehicle. Please go to the top level of the board here and look for an existing discussion that fits your question or issue. If you don't see a suitable topic, please feel free to create one. Here's a link: Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan/Grand Caravan

    Clicking "Track This Group" will make sure that you don't miss any new posts or discussions. When you come back the next time, just click on "Read New Posts" and you'll be able to click through all new posts and topics in this board.


    Need help getting around? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

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  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229

    Hi guys, I have a "new" 1996 Grand Caravan.
    When stopping abruptly or turning sharply the transmission disengages or behaves as in Neutral for a few seconds.
    Trans oil level was OK. I added 1 QT in it and now it works fine, but the level shows overfilled.
    Does the torque converter have a different oil pan, as in, do I have to fill it through a different filler?

  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565

    Vicenac. Hopefully you checked your transmission fluid when completely warmed up and with the engine running and after shifting through all shift locations. Otherwise you will get a faulty fluid level reading. And no, you do not fill two different transmission fluid reservoirs.

  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565

    Has anyone had this issue with a 2006 era Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.3 L engine? After driving maybe 1/2 hour at freeway (65-75 mph) speeds, a continuous whine can be heard which is engine speed related. Once this whine occurs, it continues even at low speeds. It disappears once the van has cooled off for a few minutes, but once back at highway speeds, it slowly begins to get louder again. It is normally not heard at all in city stop and go driving. Could it be a belt, or power steering pump or something else. No performance issues have been noted. Any help would be appreciated.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 61,442

    It does sound like perhaps an alternator bearing or one of the pulley bearings. A mechanic might be able to locate the noise using his version of a stethoscope. It's worth tracking down, because if it is one of those bearings, it's going to seize and spit drive belts all over the place---and a sudden lose of power steer perhaps. Worst case would be the seizure of the AC compressor, as this spews debris into the entire AC system, requiring a very expensive repair.

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  • 1hope1hope Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Dodge Caravan and I have somehow gotten my socket wrench stuck in between the tensioner pulley and the wheel well. There is no room I don't even know how I got it on in the first place? I don't think there is even enough room for a grinder. to get it out. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 61,442
    Can't you run the tensioner pulley bolt back in and get some slack?

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