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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions



  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565

    You can always check outside temperature the old fashioned way, stick your arm out the window.

    This also has the added benefit of telling you other data. If it is raining, it will come back wet. If snowing, it will come in white. If you are driving too close to oncoming traffic, it may not come back in at all!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Thanks, got a good laugh out of that. ;-)

    Best Regards,
  • cct2cct2 Posts: 1
    Hey fep. I still have my 96 T&C that had the exact same problems a few years back. After a few unsuccessful dealers misdiagnosed the problem, it was determined that it was - in fact the fuel pump (located humorously within the fuel tank) that would overheat as the gas level went below the pump (half a tank). The pump apparently as it fails, overheats and ironically - the gasoline (acting as a coolant) keeps the pump cool until the gas level drops below the pump. Cost to repair was about $500.
  • chubb2ichubb2i Posts: 3
    Thanks for input. I have not had a problem since replacing the Cam Position Sensor a couple of weeks ago, but I have had it go for several weeks without acting up. then start giving trouble again, so I don't know if problem is solved or not. I will probably get a TCM next time at junkyard.
  • awsomeawsome Posts: 2
    I have this problem also. I bought a replacement switch module and it did not fix the problem. Did you find out what the problem was?
  • jwheeler1jwheeler1 Posts: 6
    I do not have the stalling problem but I'm getting a constant cylinder misfire code for cylinder six,cylinder 1 and multiple missfires.I have replaced and cleaned the o-rings on the fuel injectors to my 98 voyager.I have replaced both oxgen sensors and the map sensor,and the pcv valve.Along with new plugs,distributor,wires and the vfan still keeps bringing up this code.I can't get through Conneticutt emissions because of this light.Anyone with Idea's please write. THankyou. J.W.
  • jwheeler1jwheeler1 Posts: 6
    This occurs when the oil is not yet into the block during cold starts.Also check your oil level.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Which V6, 3.0, 3.3, or 3.8?
  • jwheeler1jwheeler1 Posts: 6
    The newer vans have this problem I'm told with the o-rings on the fuel filler tube to the fuel injectors and the o-rings between the fuel injectors and the injection manifold (they rot,crack,corrode)They may need to be replaced.Some owners have had fires!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Hmmm, power by Mitsubishi. :P

    While I've never been aware of too many problems with that engine from following the various postings that I've read on the net, I have had several friends with Mitsu powered Dodges and Chryslers. Said cars seemed to have been prone to overheating, and once over heated even a single time, they've had nothing but problems. So much so that two of them required new engines within the first 50,000 or so miles. Weak head gaskets were said to be the blame, although I never saw any actual evidence of that. So, has you engine ever overheated? Have you pulled the spark plugs and taken a good look at them? If you have, did the plugs for your problematic cylinders look any different than the others (you'd be looking for things like rust or significantly more deposits)?

    Beyond that, I've never had the chance to tear one of those mills apart so I don't really have any other pearls of wisdom to offer. Maybe one of our members who is more familiar with the Mitsu V6 can chime in here.

    Best Regards,
  • fepfep Posts: 3

    Thanks for the information. I had a service represenative suggest I try replacing the fuel pump but I was doubttful because a fuel pump failure I thought would have the same symptoms as running out of gas. I didn't think if I ran out of gas my "Check engine soon" light would come on or get "random misfire" codes. Did you get these? Please advise and thanks for the feedback.
  • nina317nina317 Posts: 3
    We just had the brakes and an oil change done last week. The van smells hot when it's driven any distance. Now the van dies when I come to a sudden stop after being driven a little bit. When I am at a constant speed (freeway) it feels like it's going to stop dead at any minute, lots of learching.
    I've checked the oil it's new and at the right level. I'm going to check the transmission fluid level next.
    Any ideas besides driving it into the lake????
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Sounds to me like someone screwed up your brake job and the brakes are dragging all the time. Maybe parking brake not released all the way, or your brake pads and shoes are not retracting from the rotors and drums. The burning smell could be your brake pads and shoes quickly burning up, and the jerkiness is because you are always needing extra power to overcome your dragging brakes.

    Take it back to whoever did your brake job and make them do it right. You may need new rotors and drums too as they could be damaged and warped due to overheating.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    I second that. Years ago on my 1977 Ford LTD II I had a complete brake job done on both the front and back at Car-X. When I went to drive my car it wouldn't move forward unless I gave it a lot of gas. (I had to floor it in order for it to move). When my Dad took it back to Car-X, (I was in my late teens at the time) they said the brakes were adjusted to tight and therefore was applied all the time. Once they adjusted the brakes all around, everything was fine. :shades:
  • nina317nina317 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the information. I will take it back to the shop on Monday.

    I have another question on the same post.

    I checked the brake fluid level. The manual said the fluid should be at the full mark on the container but I can't tell. When I opened the brake fluid container it is bone dry at the top. It could have some fluid in it but it bothers me. Is there another way to check this??? I tried using a flashlight to shine thru the plastic.
    Also, what color is brake fluid???? I found a leak on the garage floor around the passenger tire well. It is pink but the transmission fluid level is perfect.

    Thanks again for your help
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 227
    jwheeler1, one added source of misfire I had on a '96 Intrepid was intake manifold gasket leak. My independent mechanic couldn't figure it out but the dealer got it right the first visit. Roy
  • dp3dp3 Posts: 1
    Same exact problem with 1997 T&C - though doesn't always need a battery reconnect to get it going - did you ever get this properly resolved? I was guessing the ignition relay???
  • jm52jm52 Posts: 4
    Whats a girl to do
    I'm not a mechanic nor is my hubby. My bank account ???
    They see me coming - problem - 1999 Plymouth Voyager.
    tranny replaced - now having electrical problems. tranny repair shop, reputable business says not related to tranny replacement. Vehicle will stall loses electrical power lights on dash flash odometer and radio blinks and dies. shut it off today
    would not restart. seemed dead - battery fine - when vehicle shut down a clicking sound could be heard from ignition or close by - sounded like something shorting out. after 10 min vehicle started. tranny repair shop says not solenoid what could it be. vehicle break down at midnight not an option
  • andee1andee1 Posts: 2
    We just bought a used Grand Voyager and happened to notice (of course after the purchase) that the front doors are shifting. There is a crack on the drivers door and front passenger door, up near the lock. When someone puts their arm on the arm rest, you can feel the door shift downwards. Is this a problem that a lot of Grand Voyagers have? I am wondering if maybe this vehicle was in an accident and this was over looked upon the repair of the vehicle or if it is a flaw with the vehicle. would anyone know?
  • rmoellerrmoeller Posts: 3
    have a '98 gc; 141000 mi; want to tune it, but have been told it's a chore. any tips?. never been tuned, original owner.
  • jwheeler1jwheeler1 Posts: 6
    Thankyou for your input.My engine has never overheated yet anyway.The plugs all look normal,clean as far as I can tell.I bought some botch platinums yesterday and I'm gonna try installing those.I don't know if they'll help.Maybe the problem is not the spark it could be the gas.I can't tell if any injectors are on the blink,I just cleaned them and replaced the o-rings.The compression test at the dealership was normal.I've thought maybe the head gasket but I haven't had any loss of power issues.I don't hear the engine running rough except occasionally sitting at a red light in gear it will vibrate a little.Thanks again I'm gonna keep trying.
  • jwheeler1jwheeler1 Posts: 6
    I would venture a guess that your problem is a sensor ,I'm no expert but I had a sensor go a couple of years ago that wouldn't let me start my van.I had it replaced under warranty so forgive me if I can't remember which one it was.I know the crank sensor won't allow the vehicle to run if it go's.If this is not it check your battery cables to see that they are not corroded and espescially check the positive cable at the starter and make sure its not loose or a bad connection.If this is a faulty connection or loose cables on battery or starter,or corrosion is on battery terminals(white soot)any of these could mimc your problem.Another possible is a relay.Black box next to your battery.The relays are labled on the inside of the cover as to their location.Your starter/shutdown and your fuel relay you could try checking.Any good shop should be able to check them with any electical tester.Or you can check them yourself for continuity.A tester is about $18-20 at walmart,home depot.Etc.These relays cost me 11 dollars apiece to replace.I wish you the best of luck. J.w.
  • gino45gino45 Posts: 52
    Just a follow up. I took my 2001 Caravan to the dealer who diagnosed a problem with the clockspring. It cost me $45 for a diagnostic, $83 to replace the part and $ 53 for the clockspring. Dcater- you mention that there was a recall for this part? The dealer mentioned there was no recall for clocksprings on 01 Caravans. Has anyone has a similar problem with a 2001 Caravan and had the repair done under a recall program?
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    Brake fluid is kinda of clear/yellow. Try and clean the outside of the master cylinder so that you can see the brake fluid line mark. Locate the full line mark, which might be located on the outside of the master cylinder. As for the red fluid, it's either trans. fluid. or power steering fluid. Under your hood, locate the power steering pump and the transmission. This should give you a sense of where the leak is coming from. :)
  • jm52jm52 Posts: 4
    Thanks for info and advice - will look into things you have suggested and let you know. Again, thank you for responding [jm52]
  • nina317nina317 Posts: 3
    OK, you guys were right about the brakes. I took it back to the shop and of course nothing was wrong with it but for some strange reason they work alot better.

    Now I have a new problem. It died on me while making a slow turn. The oil light came on but it started right up. I have read the other posts about needing a fuel pump and or tune up. Is there anyway they can tell me tune up or pump without costing a million dollars???????

    History, we have replaced the engine gaskets (seals), oil pump, water pump, ac compressor (It broke again and still is broken), transmission seal(s), belts, brakes, oil, fixed the ghost wipers. Thats all off the top of my head, not much else left to fix - LOL.

    Thanks for your help,
  • excessexcess Posts: 2
    1992 Voyager 6 cyl. This sounds dumb but I can't find where to check brake fluid or add. Five blocks from home I started to air coming from the brake pedal? Now they have pressure for about first 1/4 of pedal then a give point where the pedal drops and the brakes grab now. Hoping it's just low fluid.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    If what you described is true, adding break fluid won't help. There is air in the lines. You will first need to add the brake fluid and bleed the brakes. (This gets all of the air out of the lines). Then check for leaks in the brake lines/system. usually the master cylinder is located under the hood in the top back part on the drivers side by the steering pole. (Not sure of proper name). :shades:
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    If you hear a hissing air sound from your brakes, it is likely the vacuum assist diaphragm is leaking, not air in you brake lines.

    If you pedal goes to the floor and you have to end up "pumping" the brake pedal to get it to stop and it slowly drops to the floor, your master cylinder is likely leaking.

    I doubt if your problem is low brake fluid. Either way you need to get this fixed pronto.
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