Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions



  • royallenroyallen Posts: 227
    Why not try behind one of the rubber stoppers? Best bet, the lower middle one. The adjustment is a "star wheel" like a nut with 20 or so teeth on the outer edge which your screwdriver engages. You might get a Haynes manual to help with DIY repairs. Rear drum brakes would be difficult to work on without pics and diagrams. Roy
  • tcprobtcprob Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2002 Town and Country LX. Did you ever get the problem resolved? If so how? Thanks
  • fish06fish06 Posts: 4
    Well, I was heading home from the movie theater and it was dark enough for me to need to use the headlights, so of course I turned them on and I thought I had a burnt out headlight so I went out to check them out, and my driver side headlight was dimmer than the passenger side headlight. I then went inside the van and noticed that the left turnsignal indicator on the dashboard was light up (dimmer than normal) and no, my turnsignal was not in use, when I used the turn signal nothing happened except for one "click" and then the indicator burned steady.(When the turnsignal "clicked" the headlight also light up a little brighter) So not wanting to drive I fiddled with the high beam switch hoping it would come to the rescue, and it did, the lights went back to normal, until the next time I needed to use them, the same thing happened. Now if I turn on the parking lights and the hazard lights the front two amber turnsignals blink at opposite times, but the back blink at the same time, when I have the parking lights on and use my left turn signal it blinks alot faster than the right turnsignal.

    Just went to the garage to check this out... when the hazard lights and headlights are on at the same time, the driverside headlight flashes along with the amber marker, and I just noticed that ALL THREE lights are light up(when it falshes), and on the passenger side only the front two bulbs light up, the third burns steady as a marker I guess, but to make this worse, with the hazards on, the turnsignals flash oppositely as I said before. When I pull back on the highbeam trigger (with ignition off, key out) the left turn signal still lights up.When I turn on the AC the
    headlights come on. The lights are not "full power", but both of them are on, they are the only lights on except for the drivers side amber marker/turn signal is also light up, the tail lights are fine(off). In hopes to clarify what I am saying: When I turn on the AC the headlights come on along with the drivers side marker/turn signal, these are the only lights that come on when I turn the AC on.

    Thanks for your time/help,
  • I have what I think is this same problem with my 1990 Plymouth Voyager. I have searched everywhere and can't find any answers yet. So far, when I take it in somewhere, the mechanic can't make it happen. I would love some help with this too.
  • fish06fish06 Posts: 4
    Thanks for your help, it was only a loose ground wire, which was a major relief as I have not had this van very long..... thanks for all of your help.
  • opie4opie4 Posts: 1
    have93 pgv no fire on2 and 5 coil injectors are working coilpack plug has 4 wires and 3 are showing to have fire doesnt seem to take fuel corectlywhen accel pedalas if its flooding any thoughts
  • bonadentobonadento Posts: 2
    Had a problem very very similar to this on my 93 Caravan. Took it in to 2 different Chrysler dealerships as well as various independent mechanics. After it finally happened for one of the Dodge mechanics, he found the coil was breaking down. This was 5 years ago, and I have replaced the coil once again since then when the problem occurred again. Apparently, they don't make ignition coils like they used to!
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    I had this problem with my 2001. The front passenger carpet would get soaked from highway speeds pushing water back into drain tube, thru the firewall onto the carpet. Part # 56000724AB is a hose which curves downward that slips over existing drainpipe. About $7.00. Make sure that the hose is slipped on all the way to firewall to insure bottom notch in pipe is covered. On very hot humid days I still get a drips of condensation from the evaporator housing, but nothing compared to the thouroghly soaked carpet of before.
  • Thanks, I'll give that a try.
  • Just took care of this on my '95 yesterday. :) A diagram from a manual would be helpful if you've never done this. :confuse: The starwheel adjuster is behind the oval rubber stopper located in the center on the bottom. You need a small screwdriver to push the spring loaded pawl bracket off of the starwheel. While doing this, you need a brake adjusting tool (essentially a bent screwdriver) to loosen the starwheel. This will loosen the drums enough to remove. Take apart the wheel bearing and off comes the drum! When reassembling, use the brake adjusting tool to tighten the starwheel (you'll hear it ratcheting against the spring loaded bracket) until there's some drag of the drum against the brake shoes. Good luck.
  • So did the BCM with the wrong mileage fix the issue?

    I have a 94 T&C and the instrument clusted started blinking intermittently. It is getting worse and it appears to be more so when you put a load on the electrical system (ie. open a door (enterior lights come one), turn on the headlights, operate power windows, etc).

    Lon Allen
  • Please give me more information--you are the first one who has responded with a possible answer to this months-old problem with our van! What exactly went wrong with your van, and how much did it cost to fix it? Thanks in advance!
  • I'm not 100% positive on this, but I have a 2004 T&C, and after one month of ownership, 36k on the ticker, started to have similar concerns. Intermittent windows inop, alarm activation, and one time Instrument cluster WOW. Researched the service manual electrical diagrams, and found that the common point for all of the listed components was connector 9 at the Integrated Power Module. The Windows were in cavity 8, The Liftgate cavity 9, and BCM was cavity 6. The Accessory relay, which controls the radio is also at this connector, I beleive. I noticed that the female connector ends were very loose, tightend these 3 days ago, and have not had a recurrence...

  • I bought a 97 Dodge GC 3.8 last month and am now experiencing the exact same problem. Wondering if any headway was made in solving the problem. Appreciate any info.
  • mveitmveit Posts: 4
    Pete inquired about the engine.
    It runs great, uses about 1 quart of oil between oil changes.
    It always passes the annual smog check fine.
    We drove it 1,300 miles last weekend on vacation and it was a champ.

    I spoke to a transmission shop and the only advice they said was to
    have the transmission serviced and they might be able to tell if there is
    high wear based upon the fluid/sediment. The transmission seems to
    be working just fine. Went up/down the Owayhee mountains and costal
    mountains perfectly.

    Thanks all. I'm still not decided.
  • mveitmveit Posts: 4
    I have a 96 3.3 DC with 156,000 miles on it and just put a fuel pump in it.
    We had a transaxle replaced at about 100K because the seal went bad,
    it never made clicking noises when we turned (which is a common symptom
    of CV/transaxle problems) or had steering wheel wobble, it just leaked and
    was a bit messy. We just drove our van for 1300 miles up and down mountains
    this last week on vacation, and the transmission seems to be in good shape.
    I'd say that unless you have been pulling heavy things, that you probably are
    good for a few more years, especially since it seems that you are going a bit
    light on the miles per year. We are now starting to notice a bit of a wobble in
    the steering wheel at up to 35 mph, which I think is likely a CV/transaxle. We are thinking about selling it now. Our shocks seem to be pretty well at their life too.
    I am hoping to maybe get one more year out of it.
  • I ran the codes and came back with these:
    24 Throttle position sensor voltage to high or low
    14 Map voltage to high or low
    13 Slow change in map idle signal or no change in map from start to run
    15 no veicle speed signal
    51Oxygen sensor stays below center
    11 No ignition reference signal
    25 Automatic idle speed motor circuit
    34 speed control colenoid circuits
    From the above info, what could be the problem?
    Replies to this message:
  • On my 98 Plymouth Gr. Voyager (3.3 L with 80K miles), check engine light had come on a couple of times in the past and went away. This time it is not going way and transmission is getting stuck in lower gears, so that to get to 50 mph the engine revs to approx. 4.5 K. It happend one day, after abour 5 min, driving normally, I felt a transmission thump while stopped at a red light and transmission stopped going to D3 D4. After the van was parked for 3-4 hours, it started normally and again the same thing happened. The vehicle had started with the check engine light on, on both instances. This thing had happened once over a month ago and it went away on its own and everything was back to normal. Any one has any idea as to what might be going on. Could check engine light on may tell the transmission to stop shifting properly. Any help would be appreciated. I am worried that it may be sign of major and costly repairs.

  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,221
    pandeyrs, you might also want to check with the folks in the "Check Engine" Light discussion -- they might have some ideas.


    Need help getting around? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • gino45gino45 Posts: 52
    The rear wiper and rear windshield washer pump do not seem to work on my 2001 Caravan. I've checked the fuses and they are ok. I believe the problem to be electrical since both the washer pump and wiper do not work. Is there a relay that connects these two items? Anyone have any suggestions?
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    The wiper is fused from fuse 11, 20 amp and the washer is fused from fuse 33, 15 amp. Info from 03 wiring shop manual. If those are OK, check relay marked Accessory relay.
  • tgraytgray Posts: 1
    Hi Selena760-
    I am having the same problem with my 2000 Grand Caravan...It has happened twice and is currently in the "blinking light" mode you describe.
    The first time I called my dealer service department after checking owner's manual (nothing) and online Chrysler Customer Service (no references). Dealer service guy had never heard of this problem. After several minutes on hold, he said he didn't think there was any reset button and that they usually just take the unit out and send it to the manufacturer,etc. Its hard enough to take time to schedule critical service I really didn't want to spend the time and money to take it in, just to find out it was something simple &/or easy &/or cheap that even I could have fixed if I had known (such as a reset button). I tried to find a way into the back of the dash or under the changer with no success. So I just enjoyed the magic of my iPod through the cassette or radio feed as those stupid lights continued to mock me with the constant blinking. I tried every combination of keys, buttons, and sequences ( such as pushing all the load/eject buttons at the same time, with the engine on/off/ , the radio on/off, the key in off/on/accessories mode), thinking it might reset like a cell phone accidently placed in "lock" mode (don't ask).
    I finally concluded that a disc must be jammed in the mechanism. I took an old CD and place it just inside the feed slot and felt the edge of a disc. I gently nudged it up and down and in until the disc finally moved and it the unit began working. Not a very elegant or technical solution, but it worked perfectly for several months and then recently went out again. I tried the same technique as mentioned above but it has yet to work for me. In both cases, the problem occurred when the battery was low and the car and accessories almost - but not quite - started. I think the changer starts to shuffle and then the lack of juice catches the mechanism and you end up with a jam.
    Anyway, I too am back to square one again with regards to the changer, and it took several hours of searching to find this site and your post regarding this issue. But there is an up side...those flashing lights keep my mind from focusing on the nonworking seat heaters that cost over $1200 each and appear to be a common problem with this vehicle, or the clunking right front suspension problem, or the dash board lights that dim or brighten for no apparent reason, or the driver door window that rolls down as designed, but occasionally won't roll up (like when your 16 year old daughter uses it for her driver's license exam in a February downpour). Fortunately, the dealer that has thoughtfully investigated these problems at $90 an hour nd has assured me that nothing is wrong (except, of course, the seat heaters at $1200 each), so I can relax and enjoy the new Lee Iacocca commercials:

    "Remember, if you can find a better car... Buy it!

    Please let me know if you find out any thing about the CD changer problem...I will do likewise. Good Luck!


    P.S. This is my 3rd Dodge vehicle and 2nd Grand Caravan, so either I'm a loyal consumer or a slow learner.

    P.S.S. I wonder if I can get the "Employee Discount" on the heated seats?
  • The symptoms were the same as what you described. The van would be cruising just fine, and suddenly it would flutter, run rough, sometimes stall (but usually not). I would have to play with the pedals to keep it running. A hard acceleration would perhaps make the engine run smoother, but would not really increase the speed. The transmission seemed to shift hi-low constantly. My van was a 4 cyl, and my guess is yours is a 6. But the symptoms sound so exact that I had to let you know.
    The ignition coil is (was) less than $50 dollars, and is easily replaced by anyone. All you need is a wrench to remove the coil. No adjustments, just remove and replace.
  • We, too, have the same problem. Our 2003 Dodge Caravan has had three sets of brakes within the last two years, the lastest being replaced in July 05. About 50% of the time when braking, we hear the loud grinding noise. It sounds like there are no pads at all. It's going back in the shop today to be looked at. The grinding is so loud that heads turn. Does anyone have suggestions?
  • gino45gino45 Posts: 52
    I checked the fuses and the relay and they seem to be OK. Dealer mentioned that it could be the body control module. Has anyone had to replace their module due to a rear wiper not functioning? I am trying to avoid changing this part due to the expense ($500).
  • Well.... yes and no.

    It turned out that the used BCM came from a caravan that was equipped with an alarm system (mine does not have an alarm). Although the original problem appeared to be fixed, the system was completely confused by the different BCM firmware. The dealer installed the correctly programmed new BCM, and the problem is gone.

    1. My mechanic tells me that other mechanics have reported the exact same problem on Caravans, Voyagers, and Town & Country vans. Chrysler knows there is a flaw on these vans but refuses to acknowledge it.

    2. Be very careful when replacing Caravan parts with parts from other used vehicles.

    3. The BCM contains the odometer mileage memory.

    4. Not all BCMs are identical. Replacing a BCM with an unidentical unit will cause lots of problems.

    Best of Luck!
  • My 1998 Caravan had the same problem when it was less than 6 months old. At first we could manage to start the van by turning the steering wheel and working the key in/out. Eventually, one day, it just would not turn. The dealer had to send a tow truck to pick up the van, and the lock assembly was replaced (while the van was still under warranty).

    This van has been nothing but trouble from day one.
  • I've got 96 with 151K miles. I had a leak like you described and some stop leak fixed it. Yours probably just needs a new radiator like mine. Any little clogging throws off cooling....Basically the radiator size is perfectly matched to the van and runs at 100% capacity when it's new. will find a shop in your area. They quoted me $475 for part and labor ($189 parts). I found a local guy who would charge me $120 labor. Good luck.

    If you are keeping the van for a few years replace radiator. If not, use stop leak.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Sam55 may need a new radiator, but no way can you state that any radiator is sized "perfectly matched" to the van and runs at 100% capacity when new.

    All cooling systems better be well oversized to take into account some worst case situations, like idling in the desert with the AC on and 115 degree F ambient conditions! Under all other operating conditions, this radiator would be considered oversized.

    A partially clogged radiator may reduce cooling capacity, but unless you are under the most extreme conditions, it will not show up as inadequate.

    Sam55 may have a pinhole leak that only leaks under pressure, and if it is at the top of the system, may only be spewing steam, thus no puddle on the ground. Any good shop will pressure test the cooling system and should be able to diagnose the problem.

    It also could be something like the plastic overflow tank has a leak, or worse, a the headgasket problem allowing coolant to get into the oil or into a cylinder, but then you would likely have some other serious issues going on.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    My personal cooling system was horribly over capacity for the first half (outbound leg) of one particular trip, and horribly under capacity for the return leg. This trip dates back to when ATMs were not universal (1990). A few days before this fateful trip I had pulled into the Mammoth Lakes, California Goodyear tire store needing brakes (trust me, the Sierra Nevada’s are not a place to drive a car without good brakes), and for some reason they would only do the job for cash and none of the ATMs in town were on the network that supported my ATM card. Fortunately there was a bank in Bishop (about 45 miles away) that would honor my card and since it was a beautiful August day, I hopped on my bike and rode down (literally) to Bishop. On the way down I actually coasted at a minimum speed of 55 mph for over 20 minutes, and even though it was August, I got rather cold.

    Once there, I got my money, consumed a half of a bottle of water and headed back up toward Mammoth Lakes. For those of you who don’t know the area, Bishop sits at something just a little over 4,000’ above sea level, and Sherwin Summit (the nominal half way point) is something over 7,000’, with my destination being a couple thousand feet above that. I was half way up the climb to Sherwin Summit and realized that I was, A) HOT, B) nearly out of water, and C) not going to make it to the townlet of Tom’s Place (just past the summit) without a considerable infusion of water. Just about that moment, a large motor home (with what can only be described as an enormous radiator) pulled off the road a few hundred yards up the road to cool off its engine. I quickly rode up to its side door, knocked and asked for some water. While talking to the couple who were vacationing from the mid-west I drank an entire gallon of water.

    My thirst sated, I continued up to Tom’s Place where I stopped again, bought a quart of milk, two quarts of water, an ice-cream cone and a beer, all of which I happily consumed on the spot. ;-)

    As for our two Caravans, the cooling system proved to be insufficient only once, and that was climbing a very steep, narrow, winding road up a mountain in 100 degree weather with the A/C blasting.

    Best Regards,
Sign In or Register to comment.