Jeep Wrangler Modifications
Maybe someone can point me in the right direction on how to rewire my 2006 TJ lights. I just missed a deer driving home from work AGAIN and I want more light!
First of all, how do I change my fog lights so that they stay on when my high beams are on? It sure would be nice to see them little critters on the side of the road before they they throw themselves under my tires.
Secondly, I'm going to add some driving lights on a light bar or on a windshield hinge bracket. Where can I find some easy to understand instructions on how to wire them up so they come on with my high beams? For ease of use and to spare my fellow drivers from being blinded, separate switches don't seem like an option,
And last on my list, can someone recommend a good quality driving light for long range on a country road? Bambi will thank you for it.
Thanks Folks
First of all, how do I change my fog lights so that they stay on when my high beams are on? It sure would be nice to see them little critters on the side of the road before they they throw themselves under my tires.
Secondly, I'm going to add some driving lights on a light bar or on a windshield hinge bracket. Where can I find some easy to understand instructions on how to wire them up so they come on with my high beams? For ease of use and to spare my fellow drivers from being blinded, separate switches don't seem like an option,
And last on my list, can someone recommend a good quality driving light for long range on a country road? Bambi will thank you for it.
Thanks Folks
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Does anyone know of a good running board that does not require drilling?
tidester, host
tidester, host
tidester, host
Can't wait to see all the ideas that are out there.
I was wondering if anyone has built thier own insta-trunk for an Unlimited. If so what materails and was it difficult or easy.
Thanks
John
The Rubicon rocker guards really don't help a whole lot and are more cosmetic, IMO. The small plastic flare CAN be removed pretty easily. I did it on my SE and added Toys by Troy rockers. Not less than $50.00, but improve the protection and looks of the Jeep, IMO.
You might be able to find some on eBay or some of the Jeep-specific forums from folks who took em off their Rubicon for the heavier duty armor like the TbT, A to Z Fabrication, Shrockworks, or Poison Spyder rocker guards.
-Paul
i'll take a look for those products you mentioned. will they give me directions to slap them on the jeep? or do i just have to instinctively know how to do it? same with ripping off the small plastic flairs...
you're obviously writing to a piss-poor "mechanic" and i need your help. the one project i did was take out the entire interior and have a rhino liner sprayed on. i bolted everything back in but EVERYTHING rattles now, noticeably louder than before.
thanks for your help and happy diving,
jackson
Most come with directions, and pretty good ones. Their sites will usually have the instructions you can download. Probably the only thing you'd want to have to install them is some kind of floor jack that you can use to lift them into place and hold them while you drill the holes in the tub (yes, you have to drill some holes).
The small plastic flare extensions are simply bolted on. If you look under them, you'll see what you need to loosen. Once off, take a rubber mallet and tap the sheet metal flat if it is bowed out a bit from around where the bolt was through the body.
Many people use some kind of liner between the rockers and tub to prevent metal/metal contact (rust and noise). I used Tough Stuff gasket guard and it works VERY well.
Here is my TJ with just the rockers.
You can see the holes I drilled along the top. I also had to do some on the underside. Just be sure to wear goggles.
I added a few holes when I finished the side armor.
Granted, these both cost more than the $50.00, but they can save you from serious damage, much more so than the Rubicon guards, which are more cosmetic IMO.
To address your rattles, what all did you remove?
- Seats
- Seat belts
- Rear seat
- Center console
Other than that, not much should need to be removed, unless you have amps or other stuff installed in the tub. My guess something in the center console isn't attached properly, as I'm sure your seats and seat belt latches are all secure. :shades:
Rhinolining/Line-X is something I REALLY want to do at some point, so any pointers you have on that would be appreciated.
-Paul
I took out the seats and center console. I think the noise was originally coming from the center console... but now that i put my hard top back on it's a lot louder. i think i need to try putting both of those guys back on again.
i will keep looking on jeep websites for the brands you recommended. and the gasket guard will definitely be added into the mix as well.
i'll be sure to put up some pictures once i manage to get this done!
jackson
Look for loose change, washers, etc that may be bouncing around in there too.
-Paul
i can already tell what my next project will be, but it's sort of expensive so it might take a while. my friends jeep has one of those k&n air intakes or filter things and steel exhaust... he says it adds horsepower and you get better miles per gallon. is this true? plus it sounds really good. i think i might want that
thanks for your advice paul.
The exhaust may be freer breathing which may help a bit in the mileage and horsepower gains, but again, I'm not knowledgeable enough to answer better. Some say you'll see gains, some say you won't.
Glad he fixed your rattling. I have a soft top only, so don't know much about tightening a hard top down.
-Paul
I know this question doesn't pertain to either the removal of side steps or mods under $500, but if I have your attention I'm going to ask anyway. I'll also post to the tire/wheels section.
I know the BFG 31"x10.50" AT tires are the fave of this forum but I want to know if I can goa little wider. After doing the conversion (as found on quadratec's website) I found a 31"x12.50" tire made by BFG... LT325/60R15. Here is a link to the website:
http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-15.htm
31" diameter will obviously fit, if it's getting recommended to stock Jeeps all over this forum. What mods, if any, need to be done to accomodate the extra 2" of width in the tires I want? I know backspacing plays a large role, as told by Tom in another post to this forum this past spring. Will just a new rim with different backspacing do the trick? or will fenders need to be trimmed?
Thanks, Jackson
Backspacing doesn't just have a "lot" to do with it; it has "everything" to do with it.
You will need wheel spacers, like Paul uses, if you want to keep your factory wheels, or you will need new wheels with four inches or less of backspacing.
Paul is comfortable with his wheel spacers, but they are pretty controversial, and you will find many people that will tell you to avoid their use. I have no experience with them myself, but I would probably not use them on my Jeep.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
It's the FEVER!
I've been very comfortable with my spacers. I don't see them as any different than a 4.25" backspaced wheel. I've checked the lugnut torque several times and EVERY time, it has been set at what I torqued them to when I last installed them (after a brake job). They've been VERY solid.
Now that said, working on the brakes with wheel spacers DOES mean I have to remove 2 things to get to the brake drums or rotors. Not really a big deal to me as I have a warm garage I can work in during the winter and a cool garage during the summer (with a fan).
The controversy about wheel spacers, as Mac has mentioned in another thread, is that older spacers were just that - a spacer - that fit on the factory lugs. As a result, you had less thread into the lug nuts holding the wheel on. These Spidertrax spacers that I use attach to the factory lugs. However, they also have lugs of their own to which the wheel actually attaches. You can see in this pic the spacer on with the factory lugs, and 5 separate lugs are available for the wheel to be installed.
Notice, too, that there is that little lip on the spacers. That helps ensure you have the wheel mounted properly as well. Nice touch. The only 'mod' I had to do to install these spacers was to remove a c-clip that held the brake drum on. It would have led to the spacers not being totally flush and created a wobble. The 5 lugnuts hold it and the drum on pretty well.
-Paul
Check out Advanced Adapters. If anybody makes an adapter for engine/tranny, AA is the best one out there.
-Paul
ANY suspension lift, whether it is with springs/coils or spacers, will affect steering geometry. The amount of affect is based upon lift size. A 2" lift shouldn't affect it enough to matter. Your driveline angles will change a bit, but with the new JK's, I don't know if it would be significant enough to induce vibrations. If it is a 4door, probably not.
Sway bar angles will be changed unless you have aftermarket swaybar links.
-Paul
V8 comes to mind but you'll need wiring changes for it.
Good luck finding a good donor. Perhaps even a newer 4.0 inline 6.
-Paul
Also, please turn off your caps. We don't like being yelled at.
-Paul
Also anyone know of a good shop in northern NJ area that specializes in jeep parts etc.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks
-Paul
Thanks
-Paul
Don
I look to hit the trail on occasion, but I doubt I'll be doing any crawling and I drive alot.
So I believe a lift is in order and I've seen kits range from $500-$3000. I was thinking about a 4". Who do you folks recommend? I've read that OME puts together a good riding package as I do drive my Jeep daily... my friend says Rancho is a great package, put he doesn't own one.
Whaddia say jeep owners?
OME sounds like a GREAT way to go, but I AM biased.
I'd personally stick to a 3" suspension lift and make up the difference with a 1" BL. The smaller suspension lift affects steering geometries much less than a 4". At 4" you have to start worrying about other things.
The OME kits from DPG Offroad range from a basic spring/shock type setup to one that include the body and motor lifts, adjustable trackbars for the axle centering after the lift, and adjustable control arms. Prices go from around 700 I think and up, depending on which you want. Dirk will be HAPPY to work with you and determine EXACTLY what you need and he won't sell ya stuff you don't.
-Paul
I called Dirk @ DPG and he was very helpful. I ordered the ultimate kit and he helped me come up with some spring combinations that fit my needs - I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm doing the install myself... Hope I can handle it!
- B
-Paul
It seems OME is the way to go, assuming I get a 3" lift, how much do you think it would cost for the kit + installation?
Thanks!
Prior to doing my own lift, I had really only changed the oil on my cars. I am NOT mechanically inclined, but since I got the Jeep, I've:
- replaced the entire radiator and hoses
- replaced the thermostat
- changed the brakes (front and rear) on multiple cars
- dropped the gas tank to install armor
- installed new electrical lighting etc.
The point I'm making is that the OME instructions are VERY VERY easy, regardless of which setup you choose. OME's instructions are VERY good and step you through it. Instead of paying a shop to do it, you really can do it yourself. I KNOW there are at least 2 4x4 groups in the Chicago area. If you join up, you'll make some friends who can show you the beautiful areas around there offroad, and probably find somebody willing to help you for the cost of a deep dish pizza and some beverages for their time.
You learn more about your Jeep, you can save probably about $400 in labor, and have the satisfaction in knowing you did it yourself.
-Paul
I'm pretty mechanically inclined, and have done a few things on a car, and figure I can do anything with good instructions but the 7 hours we worked on that lift would have easily been 10 or more if I were on my own. The air guns, hydraulic lift, and plethora of tools were a great help and the use of all of his fancy extensions and swivel attachments made getting to the tough bolts easier. But because neither I or the guy helping me had ever done this before (and I had never seen the underside of my Jeep before) the reading of instructions and general deciphering of info took a little more time than expected. I could probably do the job now in 1/2 the time knowing the process. So, do it yourself, sure... but ask that pal with all the cool stuff to help 'cause it would have been a [non-permissible content removed] without all of the equipment and tools.
BTW, I am going in for my alignment and I have driven about a 200 miles on it, do you think I've done any permanent damage. It seems to go straight when I let go of the wheel, but my steering wheel is not straight and that bugs.
Dirk really took care of me and I really like the ride with the OME shocks and springs!! :shades:
Having a knowledgable helper who has the power tools will definitely make life easier! I did mine 100% alone while my wife and son were at scuba diving lessons in about 7 hours, and that included dropping the tank. I had only muscle-powered tools, but my Jeep was 100% rust free (from the desert of California).
As for the alignment, you can do it yourself with just a wrench, a tape measure, and a helper. Follow the steps on www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html and it will also show you how to recenter your steering wheel. It is ridiculously easy to do. If, after you do this, you don't feel comfortable with your alignment, then spend the $$ to get it done professionally. But I've used this method both after my lift and after replacing the tie rod and my TJ tracks straight and true.
Let's see some pics of your lift!
Here are a couple of mine this past weekend.
-Paul
With a 1" MML, the engine by the mounts will go up 1". The actual lift at the t-case is a bit less, so you MIGHT need the linkage drop.
Most people do the BL/MML, then see if they need to do the linkage afterwards. Some MML kits come with that linkage. My JKS BL/MML setup did not but I didn't need it.
-Paul