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Pontiac Grand Am



  • I too am dealing with the same issue. I was stranded again at work one Saturday. I contacted my local Pontiac dealer to ask them how to reset the alarm system they told my husband that they weren't for sure what the problem was but that if we wanted they could come and pick it up and look at it. We already have over $800.00 in maintenance bills and it's still not fixed. When we finally got home
    my husband got on line looking to see if anyone else was having the same problem and luckily we found several people and one of them actully told him what we could do to try and get it started. We found out also it's going to cost us another $350+ to finally get it fixed. Good luck to everyone.
  • My service engine soon light came on. Error code 1404 - something about the EGR Valve not opening or closing. We replaced the valve and 10 miles down the road the light came back on. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!
  • Did you ever get an answer on your security light issue. ABout 2 years ago mine came on and still does every now and then while i'm driving. And if it comes on before i start the car then i have to wait at least 10 minutes before trying again. then most times it will start Any feelback on this i would greatly appricate
  • About 2 years ago my security light came on after trying to start my car and found out that it wouldn't start, the light kept blinking on and off while my car was turned off. When it stopped blinking i was able to try to start my car with sucess. So for the past 2 years i now know that if it comes on when i am trying to start it i have to wait until it clears the light. It also comes on while i am driving, and nothing happens. I have been to 3 mechanics and they can't figure it out. I have just a key, not a remote one. If anyone can help me or knows whats going on please let me know. I also just had a new computer put in so i know it isn't that. Thank you!
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    The problem is usually the Passlock sensor on the ignition switch. Your symptoms are exactly what happens when the sensor starts to become intermittent. The only cure is to replace it. Unless you have the knowledge and tools needed to do the job it's best left to a dealer service tech. It runs about $320 (approx). If I remember right about $120 is for parts, the rest is labor and diagnostic costs.
  • i have a 2002 grand am over the last several months i have been through 5 fuel pump relays. they keep burning out and when i took it to a dealership they could not find anything wrong with it. when i try to start the car i can hear the electricity jumping in the fuse box for that relay. could it be a bad connection in there causing it to burn out?
  • i have a 2002 grand am over the last several months i have been through 5 fuel pump relays. they keep burning out and when i took it to a dealership they could not find anything wrong with it. when i try to start the car i can hear the electricity jumping in the fuse box for that relay. could it be a bad connection in there causing it to burn out?
  • I've owned a Bonneville SSE for three years now and love it except when it gets cold in the winter....The heater fan cuts in and out and sometimes drive for hours with no heat!!!!!! I've had no problems in the summer or with the warmer tempatures so don't figure it's the thermostate or climate control cause it blows out air ot matter what temperature it is in the summer but cuts out in the winter...okay..can anyone help me with what the problem is??? :confuse:
  • I have to replace pads and rotors at 30000 Kilometers(18500 miles). Believe this is premature to say the least. Not getting anywhere with G.M. even though I have complained about front brakes to the dealer since buying the car brand new! Anybody else having similiar problems?
  • I was going across the bridge on black friday and my 03 Grand Am GT V6 started to sputter, almost like the transmission was slipping, then the car stalled. I tried to start it and it would start but then stall out again after a few seconds. The next day the car wouldnt start at all, just click when i tried to start it. I had to have my battery jumped the week before, so i thought maybe that was the problem. Put a new battery in yesterday and now it turns over but does not start. Like its missing spark or not gettin fuel. I dont want to spend alot of money throwing parts at my car. And i dont know want to spend even more to have the local Pontiac dealer come tow it there and then look at it and charge me God knows how much in labor charges. Help, if anybody has any info please get back to me. My email is Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have recently had to replace both the windshield wiper transmission and the climate control motor on my 2004 Grand Am.
    To me this seems excessive for a car only 2 years old. Has snyone else experienced these unusual types of repairs?
  • I had a problem with a clicking sound that accompanied brake pedal movement. Turns out there is a problem with the pistons that can be fixed by lubricating under the piston hoods with brake fluid. It's a little unconventional but it worked. There is a service bulletin that describes this fix.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    I don't believe that climate control is available on a Grand Am. Do you mean the selector for heat, A/C, defrost, etc?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    What exactly do you mean by "lubricating under the piston hoods"? Do you have the TSB or link to it?
  • I've had the same problem with a clicking sound when using the brakes specifically when going in reverse. The Problem is intermittent and doesn't occur all the time. I'm not sure i understand what you refer to as "lubricating under the piston hood". Are you refering to the Piston Housing?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    I always thought the noise was due to the pads being forced all the way to the back stops in the caliper and then forward again the next time you brake moving forward. There has to be some clearance or they would lock up in the caliper. I've never checked but I'm sure that from pad to pad the overall length of the backing plate varies somewhat, within some tolerance. On the 99 I had the noise would come and go along with front pad changes. On the 04 I have now they're very quiet, but the brakes on the 04 are noticably better.
  • HI a friend of mine had same problem he had to replace the heater fan motor that fixed it. When it would not come on I tapped it with a hammer and it started but only on high no lower speeds would work I think there is some type of resitor in the motor itself that controls the fan speed when this starts to go it has same symtoms you describe. You should first check the wiring to the fan when it won't come on test the plug to see if there is current to it.
  • When you open the hood, there are two rods running left and right at the top of the headlight housing. they're near where the Torx adjusting screws are. they pull them outwards, towards you, releasing then from the clip that holds them in place. then you pull them straight up. once those are pulled up, the headlight assembly comes right out.
  • Dejoey,

    I have a 2003 grandam and I bought it new with 3 miles on it. Exactly one year later in 2004 at 20,000 miles I was replacing my brakes and my driver side rotor. Then appx nine months later still in the same year of 2004 the dealership told me that I need to replace my brakes again, so i did. Now this past August 2005 i had to replace both front rotors and then past November 2005 they are telling me that I need to replace my front brakes again for the third time. The car will be 3 years old in January. So you are not the only one having problems with brakes. I have not replaced my brakes again as of yet, but b/c of safety issues i am going to do and also to avoid them cutting into my rotors. This will be the last time that i replace brakes on this car..
  • Correction to the headlight question; they are not rods...thinking of my other vehicles. They are actually flat shanks of metal and they pull straight up. there's two per liget, both sitting at the very top.
  • What's the recall notice number and what is it reportedly affecting???? More information would truly be helpful. I'm apparently another victim of this passlock nonsense. I have had my first full blown "won't start" episode this evening.
  • I've finally had to replace a full caliper assembly and brake lines, and that's in addition to the two full sets of rotors and pads. I resorted to taking the car to a non-Pontiac repair shop after increasing frustrations with the dealership techs not being able to resolve the problem.

    This brake issue was first detected during a high speed highway evasive maneuver (after driving for 2+ hours.) On normal stop and start driving, this problem was NOT noticable. Brakes were applied at 65 mph, and the car had a hard jackhammer feeling to the front end, nore noticable to the passengers in the left side of the car. After that, every time the brakes were applied, even gently, this heavy vibration was felt. There was no overtly noticable pulsing in the pedal, perhaps because the jumping in the handling was so profound! When the car was parked and cooled down, the braking problem seemed to go away until another heavy braking incident would bring it out again.

    In defense of the dealership techs, it took this garage two shots to get it fixed as well. They finally discovered that one of the calipers was freezing in position. They knocked it free, lubed it considerably, and the slider seemed to be working without issue. That worked for about 6 months, until the problem came back. On returning to them, their terrifying discovery was that the caliper was not getting adequate brake fluid, therefore the caliper was locking up. Enough damage was done by this time that the entire caliper assembly, plus another set of rotors and the lines had to be replaced. (The garage was embarassed enough that they gave me the pads and rotors at no charge. I guess my yelling that I could have killed or been killed by a catastrophic brake failure might have had something to do with it.)

    Just wanted other owners to be aware of this issue if they experience it. I've owned Grand Ams since the ones in the old boxy late 80s. I'm on #5. This one is my first "lemon" that's had multiple issues with the computer, leaks, and other technical maladies.
  • When you had the problem, did the car even crank like it was trying to turn over or dead/nothing?

    The lights come on, the stereo and windows work, but when the key is turned, I get absolutely zilch. Hotshotting and jumping, and neutral starting did nothing.

    I do not have the persistent security light, however, I've had the security light come on while driving two or three times in the past year. (I've got just over 60K on the car now.) I've also had intermittent engine codes that fail to clear -- a misfire code that despite replacing everything but the computer, it keeps coming back.

    I'd hate to tow it thinking it was a starter and it's something idiotic like a GM screwup.

    :lemon: ade anyone????
  • I hope that someone can help me out. Over the last few days I have noticed that my RPM's drop from 700 to 400 for a brief second or two when I am stopped at a red light. It feels like the car...2001 Grand AM SE 2.4L 68,000...wants to stall. I consistantly put fuel injector cleaner and fuel detergents in the gas, just to maintain the vehicle. I have taken it to my mechanic, whom I have know and trusted for many years. He has kept the car for several days, and it's not doing it for him.

    Any idea's????

    Just a side note, from reading posts on this board, apparently I am having a problem with the Passlock system, as the car WILL NOT START...different issue for a different time, Thanks for your time!!
  • Good day everyone, My 2000 Grand Am GT.w/3.4LT V-6 has been going berzerk lately. My interior lights dim, flicker,go totally out and now as I'm driving the car just stalls. I've had my kids come to the rescue just to have the blasted thing start right up and go for weeks with no stalling problem, then unexpectedly it dies again. Has anyone had this problem and if so how did you fix it? Thanks Heaps.
    Ray :confuse:
    PS. the battery installer technician,at NTB said that it was caused by a faulty interior dimmer switch????
  • I bought my car with about 24k miles and it was about 2.5 years old. After I put on about 3k miles it developed a vibration during breaking on the passenger side front rotor. I drove with it until the pads were fairly well worn but not digging into the rotor. I decided to upgrade a little bit and bought slotted rotors and a slightly harder or performance pad and I've been driving on them for probably 12k miles without any problems and the best part about the pads is they start working even better as they warm up i.e. harder stops which I enjoy when I start pushing the car a little more the faster it brakes. :) I think I probably spent an extra $25 for the more expensive parts but so far its been worth it. I had done some research and found lists of people with brake problems where they had to replace the breaks every 10k miles and my grandfather had the same problem with his 02 malibu. So I say spend a few extra bucks now and it will save you in the long run.

    As with the starting problem and the Passlock feature. I've only had it happen once but I luckily knew there was a chance of this happening. I found it in the owners manual that if it does not want to even turn over to leave the key in the on position for 10 mins and the passlock system will reset itself. It worked for me when I had the problem but I'm afraid it might start happening more and more.

    As a result of my problem with this car I'm considering selling it before I have major problems with this thing. I sold the love of my life (67 Camaro) for a newer car so I would not have to be working on it all the time but it seems like I'm working on this car more and the gas mileage isn't as great as I expected. Also its sad that this car rattles more and has more road noise than my 67 camaro.
  • cruyfcruyf Posts: 2
    Went to start my Grand Am, put the key in the ignition but the key will not turn. I noticed that the steering wheel is also not locked as it normally would be. I believe the two are linked. Any ideas?
  • riclandricland Posts: 10
    Same problem. Insane, isn't it? Sometimes I turn the key and get zilch too. Then, if I keep turning it, maybe the car will eventually start, maybe it won't.

    Based on what I'm reading here, it's the ignition module in the passover housing -- a $500 to $600 repair job!

    Look, isn't there a cheaper fix for this? Can't I disengage the ignition key security thing or something?

    I only paid $1000 for my "94 Grand Am

  • riclandricland Posts: 10
    Just wondering if getting a remote key entry system installed will fix the ignition module passover housing problem?


  • riclandricland Posts: 10
    Saw this in another GM forum. Looks like it might be the fix to the ignition module passover problem:

    Sounds like you may have a problem with the ignition switch, the security system is not operating properly when you are putting in the key or it is not reading the fact that the key is in place and that could be causing the security light to activate some times while you are driving.

    My 2 cents worth I hope it helps.

    My security light started coming on again about a year after paying the dealership $450 to replace a faulty Ignition lock cylinder. I was at my wit’s end. My wife and kids would be stuck at night in some shopping center parking lot waiting 10 minutes to reset the stupid thing. I was able to Bypass, Disable or Ghetto Hack my passlock II anti-theft system on my 2002 Oldsmobile Alero without relays or resistors. I had my local Auto wiring tech install a $5 on/off toggle switch under my dash that is connected into the yellow (key resistance/code/recognition) wire that can be cut while the engine is running to essientially bypass passlock I(1) or II(2) permanently.(I do not have nor intend to install a remote starter and I do not have an alarm on this car.) The toggle switch idea came about because of my concern that a dealership tech could possibly reset the security “fail- enable” mode or the battery could die or become disconnected for an extended period of time and reset the intended fault. All I need to do is flip a switch to break the circuit again while the car is running to take the passlock system offline. When the system is offline, the security light is on constantly.(Not flashing.) I don’t mind the light, but others may want to remove the bulb or black it out. Here’s how the setup works:
    1)Switch On while engine is running – Security system is on.(Factory Setting) Security light is off. (Circuit is complete.)
    2)Switch Off while engine is running – Security system goes into “fail-enable” mode and bypasses the passlock system.. Security light is illuminated.(Circuit is broken.)
    3)Switch On while engine is off – Security system is on (Factory Setting)
    4)Switch Off while engine is off – Security system detects this as a theft attempt
    and will not allow you to start the car until you flip the switch On to complete the circuit.(Acts as a FUEL KILL SWITCH.)
    Below you will find a thread and some supporting evidence of why this bypass actually works. The entire job took 25 minutes. There is an incredible link below with high resolution pictures of the wiring for your specific car. I included the actual photos that I used to gain access to my ignition lock cylinder wiring. *Special note: those with GM Class II Data Bus should leave your radio connected during the entire procedure so nothing weird happens. If you are unsure if your car is so equipped, it’s best to leave the radio connected and let it hang. Good luck and post with your success stories! 12/4/05 Is this You? Get in your car....try to start it and find that the passlock II is screwed up again, you have to wait 10 minutes for it to reset. When it resets it starts up and runs fine. Fix-------Start the car, find the yellow wire that I'm sure you've read about, the rcode wire that is, and cut it. Shut off the car and you're done! The rcode wire on my 2001 alero is behind and to the left of the radio, you must take out the radio.....the yellow wire accompanies two other wires, the white and black, the 3 wires are alone and run inside what appears to be a cheap electrical tape that will fall apart in your hand when you start tugging on it, they are very thin wires, maybe 18 to 22. I taped off both ends of the yellow wire too.Took me about 14 days to find this out and reading no exageration 1000 posts. Forget all the relay, DEI and resister crap that I'm sure you've read about. All this writing assumes that this will continue to work.....i WILL be back here to post an update if it fails again. If you have doubts of me coming back to update a failure you can email me page 4, The PASS Key Module also has the ability to allow engine operation if it recognizes a system fault in the ignition key reference circuit while the engine is running. In this case the Module enters and remains in a mode which allows the engine to be started and run without reading the resistance chip. This mode requires that the original factory resistance chip key be in the ignition lock
    cylinder at the time the fault occurs. During this mode, the
    security light will be ON all the time. When the key reference circuit is repaired, the module will automatically reprogram itself to the mode requiring the original resistance chip. icle.pdf page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit
    fails while the engine is running, this is considered a
    malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light
    may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if
    it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper
    key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM
    calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent
    system goes offline and the engine will start and run
    with any key that turns the lock. and click on vehicle wiring diagrams to select your particular make.
    Also how to disable Daytime Running Lamps
    2001 Olds Alero Locate the DRL relay in the main fuse box under the hood, it is #22 corresponding to the diagram on the underside of the fuse box cover. Remove the relay, snip pin 87, and re-insert.
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