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Chrysler LHS



  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Posts: 94
    Sorry to hear you have the same clunk, it's very annoying, especially on colder days, it's louder. It's pretty consistent now, but I've given up on trying to find it, the dealer doesn't know what's going on, and I don't have a lot of time to spend dealing with it. So I just learned to ignore it, unless the noise gets worse or the steering doesn't feel right.

    By the way, I've mentioned to them what Ottowrkr said, and they found no problems (supposedly) with the sway bar links, tierod ends or the rack and pinion. What worries me is that they will magically find the problem in a few months, when my Warranty runs out (I'm at 32k miles). Good Luck.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    try another dealer.
  • Today I confirmed my thoughts about the owners manual listing incorrect bulb types for the 2000 LHS. I removed the front fascia today to replace the front grill that was ruined by the attachment method used to mount the front license plate bracket. Since the headlamps could be removed with the fascia off I found the following lamps used in the front:

    Low beam:
    Actual - 9006 (aka HB4)
    Listed in owners manual - 9006XS (aka HB4A)

    High beam:

    Actual - 9005XS (aka HB3A)
    Listed in owners manual - 9005 (aka HB3)

    Fog light:
    Actual - 9040
    Listed in owners manual - H3

    I believe the H3 is a carry over from the '99 which somebody stated that their '99 actually has H3's, do not know for sure.
  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064
    This page, representative of many out there, must be wrong for the LHS as well:

    For the 300M, it doesn't even list the H3 fog lights.

  • datafusiondatafusion Posts: 2
    Figured out what was causing the clunkon the left-front side. Turns out that the sway bar was actually able to hit a bit of the frame. I don't mean the plastic liner, but actual metal car body, directly above the sway-bar. This appears to a frame-member (not the sub-frame) - it's painted body color, and several spot-welds are visible. Look directly above the sway-bar. The plastic inner-fender has a bit of an indentation to accomodate the sway-bar. This frame-member was protruding below that.

    The wear marks from the sway-bar hitting this
    thing were quite pronounced, once you knew to look there. The dealer had to cut a piece of it away to cure the problem.

  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Posts: 94
    Wow, interesting. I'll have to check it out, if the rain ever stops around here (in the Northeast). I just had the car in for an oil change at another dealer, and asked them to look for the noise, but again, nothing wrong and "minor clunk noise is normal for the LHS" according to the mechanic I spoke with.

    I hope the problem is similar to what you found, otherwise I'll live with it till I sell the car.
  • tksatksatksatksa Posts: 30
    Some cretin with the brain pan of a shrew nailed the left front fender on my 2001 LHS in a parking lot and then took off without leaving any note. Isn't this uninsured motorist crap wonderful?

    Anyway, for you folks in the East SF Bay Area: on the recommendation of my mechanic I took the car to Jack Armas at J&C Body Shop in Concord, CA. The fender was creased so Jack got a new fender and then matched the paint perfectly. He did a fabulous job. My baby is all better now. Thanks, Jack!
  • valhsvalhs Posts: 63
    It's been a long time since my last post but here's an update. 2000 LHS, 49,000 miles and no issues. I may be ready for brakes, especially the front. The pads are getting thin and it looks like the rotors could use a turn.

    Interior materials seem to be holding up well with the exception of the steering wheel. Used all purpose cleaner and clean rag, color and some material came off with the cloth. I've seen similar descriptions of this on the 300M page.

    All for now.
  • mileshoovermileshoover Posts: 122
    Regarding your brakes, notice you live in VA also.

    State inspector for your annual safety inspection will estimate your remaining brake life; he's usually very correct in his estimate.

    Just had my '99 LHS (built 4/98) annual inspection at 42.5K miles; guy says my front pads still have over 60% left; rear ones will probably never need to be replaced for the life of the auto.

    If you do get brake work done, my experience with Chrysler ('93 Concorde and '94 LHS) indicate that it is not a good idea to have the rotors turned if someone suggests that approach. Get new ones and pads also if you want things to work without vibration and go to someone who knows brakes.

    And make sure that the removed wheels are properly torqued at no more that 100 ft/lbs when put back on. That appears to be what warps rotors on these cars.

  • lonestarsledlonestarsled Posts: 226
    I use Meguiars's Gold Class leather conditioner and cleaner on all leather surfaces and the steering wheel and shifter. This stuff really soaks in and conditions the material, does not leave a greasey or cheap glossy look. My seats are softer than the day I got the car.
  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Posts: 94
    What do you guys think of these chrome handles. Would they last?

  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Posts: 122
    Tacky, tackie , takey and way you spell it the look terrible why not just glue on some aluminum foil?

    The LHS is a luxury car not a low rider. No stick on chrome of any kind.
  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Posts: 94
    Chrome Handles are NOT for Low Riders. Some of the most luxurious cars offer the Chrome Handles. Take a look at these 2 cars, the 2002 Aston Martin and the 2002 Bentley (I really don't think they're tacky!).



    Maybe you didn't like the idea of the stick-on, but if it did'nt look perfect like an original handle, I would never consider it. By the way, what about the fake plastic wood dashboard, or the plastic-chrome window switches, are they tacky?

  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064
    God, how I hate those!
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Posts: 122
    That's why I paid extra for the luxury group to get the real wood. Yes I hate plastic chrome switches as well as all other plastic chrome, it doesn't have the look or feel of real chrome. If the door handles were real like on your examples that wood be great but why cheapen up a beautiful car with plastic stick-ons. I am not criticizing your choice just voicing my taste sorry :>( if I came out too strong did not mean to ! It's just that you asked and fake add-ons are one of my pet peeves, especially the plastic chrome door edging,take about ruining body lines. I just want to walk up and peel them off when I see them !
  • joelisjoelis Posts: 315
    That's one of the few things that I do not like about my car. I wish they would not have laid it all the way across the dash like they did. Ick!
  • valhsvalhs Posts: 63
    Go to Then click on the "photo showroom". Go to the 300 M pix. This kit looks excellent in LHS' with the beige interior. It covers the door panels and dash with brushed bronz. It also has the center vent covers, door switch covers, etc. The only piece they are missing is the shifter. I have had this kit in my car for over a year. It has held up great and looks nice. Even the dealer commented that he liked my interior better than the factory's.
  • joelisjoelis Posts: 315
    The brushed bronze looks a lot better than fake wood.

    I was looking at some of the other pics in the list and almost puked when I saw the Mustang with the fake wood additions.
  • tpiketpike Posts: 2
    I just test drove a 2000 LHS and I love it. I don't really want to get rid of my 95 T-bird, but my kids are not getting any shorter. Can anyone tell me what the shortcomings of this vehicle are?
    I read your notes about the front end knocking, but the dealer is certifying it,and there is the remainder of the 36,000/3 yr warranty as well as a 8yr/80,000 mile power train warranty, is there anything else that would fall outside of these limits that I need to know about? And is $17,9 for a fully-loaded LHS with 30,000 miles a good deal?
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Posts: 122
    Bought my wife a steel blue with all the toys 01 last Nov. She says its the best car she ever had. She said she has gotten more compliments on it than all her other cars combined. Don't get me wrong this is not a chick car I love to take it out ever chance I get. Just like the one commercial where the guy keep going to the store just to drive the car. Just punch it once getting on the freeway and you will be sold, no problems merging other than being careful not to ride up someone going the speed limit's rear bumper. With the 8/80 power train already on it the cost to add bumper to bumper should not be that much. Try that's where I got mine it is a true factory warranty. With all the toys and computers on the LHS I'm betting I will come out ahead,not because of this model I just feel that any car with a lot of electronics will need some repairs and it doesn't take many to rack up the $$$
  • tpiketpike Posts: 2
    I did it!!! I am so glad I go this car!!! I had actually talked myself out of it last night, but found out that the only way my T-bird would pass emissions was to replace the engine $3200, and hi BB on it is only $2500. So that made the decision for me. I did get the 8/80 bumper to bumper like you suggested and you were right, it wasn't that expensive when you consider all that could go wrong. I have a 50 mile drive on Monday out to a work site and can hardly wait to get it out on the freeway, these Texas drivers are very intense, and lane territorial, so I am hopeful that moving from a V8 down to a 6 won't give me any problems. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your help.
  • dhgiiidhgiii Posts: 5
    It's been over two years since I last posted. My 2000 LHS is still purring along, now with just over 20k on it. A 2400 mile trip to and from Miami last winter down I-95 was great. We averaged 27 MPG with a trunk full of luggage (that's A LOT in an LHS), and at cruising speeds..... let's just say we were REALLY cruisin'. I was happy with the car's performance, and still am!
    Now that I've said some good stuff..... let's get to the bad stuff.
    1.)The black trim strip along the back edge of the hood looks like the clearcoat is being stripped away by the wind.
    2.) The steering wheel leather is developing ridges and pockmarks in the areas where it is held.
    3.) The driver seat "shifts" when braking.

    Now I can't complain too loudly, since none of the above is a mechanical problem that would have me stranded by the side of the road, but I do keep this car spotless, like most who read these messages keep their cars. And! This car did list for over 30 grand. A bit too much to have the cosmetic and annoying "seat shift" problems listed above. We'll see what Chrysler has to say next week. It will be the first time back to them. I just don't want to hear the service writer say "That's considered normal" to any of the above!

    My only other complaint is the same I had back in May of 2000.
    Tire noise... especially on concrete road surfaces..... coming from the Goodyear Eagle LS tires is very high. I would love to replace them if somebody out there has found a truly quiet tire for this car. Any advice from you fellow owners?

    All in all, this car WAS the best kept secret at Chrysler. Too bad it's been reduced to a trim level of the Concorde this year. It's no wonder postings have dropped off so much.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273

    Go to the 300M topic here in TH. I believe that two of the 3 items you mentioned are TSB's. Someone there will help you.

  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Let's see, I'm knowledgable of these "quiet" tires from the 300M guys. Here are a few:

    1)Dunlop SP Sport A2- Great grip, just about silent from what I've read and heard.
    2)Yokohama Avid T4(or H4?)- Low price, good ride, handling, quietness.
    3)Yokohama 420- Good price, nice ride, excellent handling, very quiet.
    4)Bridgestone Pole-Position S-03- Great grip and ride, very quiet, not the cheapest, but very high ratings.

    These are just a few that I can remember. Try going over to the 300M guys and ask, they'll probably tell you of the same ones, but maybe a few others too.
  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Posts: 94
    I've just about hit 36k miles on my LHS, with plenty of tread on my Goodyears, but I can't take the noise and the VIBRATION any more. I'm planning on purchasing the "Yokohama Avid T4" from They are listed for $95 each, which is pretty cheap considering the tire has great reviews in performance and especially that they are very QUIET.
  • dhgiiidhgiii Posts: 5
    Wow! What a response!

    Fastdriver.... I made sure my dealer was aware of those TSB's. It's what I'm counting on to get everything back to brand new again. And yes, all LHS owners should check out the 300M posts. We're driving pretty much the same car, and there's loads of info there. about choices! I especially like your comment on Dunlop's being "just about silent". I'm pricing all thoise choices right now!

    And Bb_lhs_2k..... I stopped at a tire store on the way home from work tonight to price the Avid T4's! I hope you keep us posted on your experience from both buying tires from AND on how quiet they really are once you get them on your car. Just a note about buying those tires, though. I got a price (I'm in PA)of $505 for 4 tires, mounted, balanced, new stems, raodside hazard, discard of current tires, and all taxes. Unless you've got a buddy in the mounting business, you may end up paying more after shipping, and getting someone to mount them!

    Thanks again to all three of you. And stay tuned...
  • docentdocent Posts: 2
    The driver door on my LHS rubbed on the firewall silencer pad and tore it apart (actually Edmunds was complaining about it during 2002 300M road test). The dealer can fix it under the warranty (even ordered the part) but in order to put a new pad in, the whole front fender plus some parts in the door must be removed.
    It is basically a piece of foam. Do you think it is worth to take apart half of the car to replace it? Does it really decrease a noise (I did not notice any noise increase but maybe it was cracked since new)or it has some other use?
    Thanks a lot for your opinions!
  • NO WAY!!

    I would not dare let a car dealer (regardless of make) do that to my car just to get that piece of foam back inside the fender. If you let them do this you should expect some scratches on the paint, possibly some rattles and maybe a misalligned fender all at no extra charge to you, just thrown in for doing business with them. If we are talking about the same part I am sure it can be changed without all the disassembly, but I doubt that the dealer is capable of doing it!!!!
  • docentdocent Posts: 2
    Thanks a lot for your opinion!
    That was exactly what I was afraid of.
    The dealer I was talking to assured me that the front of the car must be taken apart.
    I checked the part again . It is a piece of foam attached to the fender, you can see it when the doors are opened. I thought it would be possible just to remove the old one and slide a new part in.
    I will call another dealer tomorrow and find out if they can fix it in a simple way.

    thanks again.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    Is that dealer for real? that pad can be replaced easily without removing any parts. it just slips in.its a foam pad not steel!!!
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