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Chrysler LHS



  • smokedoggsmokedogg Posts: 3
    Hello, I have a 1996 Chrysler LHS and I am having problems with my power door locks. Actually just the drivers side. When I just barely touch it, it makes a buzzing noise probably just like yours did. If i press it to unlock, all 3 other doors will lock, and vice-versa for when i press it to lock, they all unlock. With the exception of my drivers side door. With the keyless entry, everything on that works the way it should except the drivers side door again. I was wondering if you had any luck on resolving your problem, and if so can you please explain to me what you had done. And perhaps, the steps you took to remove your door panel. I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
  • I have a 94 LHS with a rough idle. There is now 130,000 miles on it.
    It started suddenly 2 years ago. There are no engine codes even after repeated checks. I changed plugs and wires, even though they were not that old. It did not help. I have checked for vacuum leaks many times and can not find one. I have carefully synchronized the throttle bodies.

    The miss is at idle, worse when the A/C is engaged. If you give it a little gas it is fine. When the car is moving there is no miss.

    The engine drops revs if you disconnect any of the plug wires or injector connections. So the miss is irregular and not confined to any specific cylinders. There is no miss at high speed, or when gunning for overtakes. If anything since this problem started gas mileage improved slightly.

    I did have a mechanic put a scanner on it and at idle the passenger bank of injectors has a shorter opening time than the other side. The ignition timing jumps erratically. As soon as you build up revs to about 1000 RPM everything straightens out.

    I have spoken to dealers and a number of good mechanics about this and they have seen it before, but have no idea for a solution. They tell me Chrysler are no help at all.

    Has anyone seen this problem and solved it? I sure would like to know. The problem does not get worse, but it is very irritating, and the car shakes violently at stop lights. Apart from that the car runs fine and starts fine hot or cold, even at 40 below. I have been around a lot of engines in my time, and have never encountered anything remotely like this puzzler.
  • I also have a 94 LHS and I have had the rough idle problem my Self. I have been talking to a few different mechanics and I am semi confident the problem may be the Idle air Control Valve. The valve runs about 70 dollars in most auto parts stores. I should have one next week. I think that may fix the problem.
  • i have the same problem on my dads 95 lhs. did you solve your problem? if so how? thanks
  • please let me know if you solve your problem.. my dads car has same problem. thanks
  • I have not yet, got the Idle Air Control Valve. I should have it in a couple of days. I have been a little short of funds like everyone else. I plan to start with that and go to the throttle parts next if that doesnt work. I will keep you posted on how it comes out. My 94 LHS also kind of jumps (is the best way i can put it) when the air conditioning is on. It sort of feels like its jumping in and out of gear but its not. it does the same thing when i am sitting still with the air on. it doesnt do it all the time,maybe like once every 10-20 min. when it happens the rpm's go up and then back down for a sec. I think it still maybe caused by the Idle air control valve though. if its not getting enough air or too much, that would (in my experience) make the idle do wierd things. exspecially if the air is on.
  • I posted this on Bat auto technical, and a Sr member Danica gave me the first sensible and correct advice on this common problem with the Chrysler 3.5 V6.

    Here are the relevant parts of the thread. I posed the same question as above.

    Danica: -
    Since its an LHS I'll assume its got the 3.5 engine, which has a common problem with lower intake manifold gaskets. This engine has a large upper plenum, and a small intake manifold nestled between the heads. Close to where the upper rad hose fastens to the motor, there is a small area opening to the underside of the intake manifold. Spray carb cleaner in that opening with the engine idling. If it smooths out, you've found your leak.

    Tuscanskipper: -
    Thanks Danica! That is just the sort of information I'm looking for. The car is away from here currently. I will have it back next week. I will do exactly what you say, and post back.

    If that is it, I will get the gaskets. I bet access won't be brilliant. However when I get the plenum off I might be surprised. Hope Springs eternal! I have the service manual so I will look at the procedure for changing the gaskets. By the way it is the 3. 5.

    If you have solved this, your brilliant! I know this is a common problem, and it is all over the net, but no solutions. I have suspected an intake leak all along, but not been able to find it. So to me your reply makes sense.

    Tuscanskipper; _
    I sprayed in the carb cleaner just as you instructed. The engine smoothed right out consistently with multiple sprays. I have a an intake manifold gasket replacement coming up! I will be off to the local parts store tomorrow.

    Danica, yours was the first correct answer to this problem I have seen on the net.

    Should I silicone the gasket, in a addition to the water channel, to prevent further problems?

    Once again, thanks for your help. Good job!

    Only use silicone sealer on any surfaces that are pitted.

    Use caution with the fuel lines and coolant outlet at the rear of the engine.

    Tuscanskipper: -
    I finished the intake manifold gasket replacement first thing this morning. Since I have some physical limitations I did the repair over 3 days. I put in three hours two days ago, three hours yesterday, and an hour this morning. So that is seven hours, including radiator refill, warm up air bleeding and testing.

    I'm glad to report the engine started right away, with no leaks, check engine lights or fault codes. Best of all the engine idles so smoothly you have to check the rev counter to be certain the engine is running. There are no driving problems at all.

    Thanks once again Danica, that was the first sensible advice I received since this problem started.

    Since this problem seems prevalent, with no solutions generally offered, I hope this post will pop up in search engines.

    Since this seems a significant problem for this engine, I will go into aspects where I had to deviate from the Haines manual.

    The most significant difficulty was the fuel rails. The manual says to pinch the connectors to supply and return, but no way would they release. I figured if I removed the thermostat housing I could move them out of the way.

    I went to the parts store to get the housing gasket. They sold me a tool to uncouple the rails. However there was an older well seasoned mechanic in the store, and he cautioned me that theses tools often break the coupling, and advised if possible to do the repair without uncoupling the fuel rails. This proved easily possible, once the thermostat housing was removed.

    The other issue is the heater hoses on the back of the manifold. The Haines manual mentions only one heater hose. However there are two, and one goes straight down, and I could not get to the hose clamp, as the hose was short and would not pull up. I removed the metal hose connector from the manifold, by removing the two securing bolts. I was able to preserve the gasket, and used blue RTV sealant when I put it back. Otherwise the repair was as per Haines.

    Now as to cause. This gasket is brittle plastic. I never saw anything like it. It has finger cracks all over the place. It would soon have caused leak of coolant into the cylinders. It was dreadful to get the remnants off the head and manifold. It is impervious to gasket solvent. I got most off with a razor blade without scraping. For the rest I used the small scotch brite pad on a small air right angle grinder. This got all surfaces clean and shiny. I used form a gasket to hold the manifold gasket, fuel rail gaskets and plenum gaskets in place. A bead of blue RTV sealant was place round all water channel openings. The NAPA replacement gasket looked to be of excellent quality, by the way, and I doubt this problem will recur.

    One other issue, I found a mouse nest on the cylinder block, under the inlet manifold!

    I'm really glad to have tracked this problem down. These are great engines. I find it strange, that the cause of this common problem with these engines is not widely known. As far as I know this is the only correct answer on the net. Two dealers and multiple experienced mechanics gave me nonsensical answers. I'm glad I left the engine alone, until I was certain what the problem was.
  • Did you see the cause and correct solution for this problem?
  • I got the Idle air control valve today and installed it. I am also going to try the trick with the carb cleaner, spraying it near the intake manifold. The idle air control valve seemed to bring the idle back up where it needed to be. I will give it a good drive tomorrow to see if the hesitation is still there. It would kind of choke sometimes when the engine was running. Sometimes it would do it on the highway, some at idle. Most of the time at highway speeds. I will keep everyone posted on my progress as well. The other post sounds like more work, but it seemed to fix the problem. My car seems to run fine otherwise.
  • I did replace the idle air control valve and it helped a little. I got some carb cleaner today and sprayed it near the intake. I started spraying in back near the firewall but no fluctuations in the idle. then i came around to the front near the thermostat housing. When i sprayed there it started to change the idle. it bubbled a little as well. i could not tell if the leak was comming from the intake or the thermostat housing. how can i be sure? I replaced the theremostat and gasket about two months ago and there is no leaks. if the therm housing was leaking, wouldnt it leak antifreeze?. what do you suggest next?
  • i recently put a light in the trunk. i got one of those lights from the auto parts store and unplugged the orriginal light that was already in the trunk. I found out which wire was hot and which was ground. the light works fine but now the trunk ajar light on the dash wont go off. I disconnected the light that i installed in the trunk to see if that would change or fix anything but it didnt. any ideas?
  • The thermostat gasket would leak water and not cause this problem. Your problem is failure of the manifold gasket, apparently it usually starts near cylinder No. 5.

    When I removed my manifold gasket, I could see why these 3.5 Chrysler engines are known for this problem. The gasket is made of a material I have never seen a gasket made of before and never want to again.

    Replace the manifold gasket and your vehicle will be transformed. Make sure you use a traditional high quality gasket, and NOT one of those Chrysler abortions.

    If you don't have to take enforced breaks like I do, you should get this done in a day. The complete job took me seven hours.

    Time to bite the bullet my friend. If you don't, you will end up with water in a cylinder, and or over heating problems. Mine had to be close on the basis of what I found on my vehicle.
  • Thanks for the info. I am preparing my self for the job this weekend. I have a slight valve cover leak as well so i plan to do those as well. Would you have any other tips or points to watch out for when i am doing the job sat? I noticed that one of the people posting on here was talking about the fuel Rails? I know what they are but should i remove them or do you have to? It may have been you talking about it. I noticed that the car goes up in idle every now and then, it jumps to about 1200 rpm and back down to about 800 average. when you are sitting still, it just does that. when you are driving if makes the vehicle jump (kind of feels like its popped into gear) but its just the idle speed doing that. I was assuming that this was caused by more air sucking into the manifold . I also need to replace the oil pan gasket, but i may save that for a later day. Its seems easy to get done except for the front area where the bolts are kind of under part of the frame. I wonder who thought of that.
  • thanks for help but have huge problem. two bolts are frozen and both feel that with any force they will snap. what can i do?
  • you may want to try some liquid wrench. saturate all around the bolt and let it stand for a while before trying it again. hopefully that will work.if they do break, you can get a set of bolt outs (they are kind of like drill bits that go backwards.) lowes may have them if the parts store doesnt. i have my parts store on speed dial for reasons such as that. usually those guys are pretty smart.

    Thanks and i hope that helps
  • I agree with the advice about the bolts.

    You will need a plenum gasket, manifold gaskets and the two fuel rail gaskets. I would also recommend a thermostat housing gasket. Also if you can get one, a gasket for the heater hose outlet on the back of the manifold. I could not find one of those, so if you break it you will have to make one, likely.

    I would recommend not decoupling the fuel rails, as you may do damage it will be hard to repair. You will have to remove the fuel rails. I would recommend removing the thermostat housing so you can set them to one side, without decoupling them.

    Getting the old gasket off is hard. I polished all surface with the small Scotch Brite pads on my small air angle grinder.

    It is fiddly to keep the manifold and fuel rail gaskets in place. You will need something sticky to hold them. I used a product called form a gasket. I also put a bead of blue RTV sealant round the waterways.

    Sorry for the late reply, but I'm visiting England currently.
  • I finally went and did it. I replaced the Intake gasket, the valve cover gaskets and the thermostat housing gasket. no leaks. I have another problem now. the idle is fine unless you put the car in gear, then the idle either drops to about 600rpm or the car dies all together. I cant seem to find any vacuum hoses that are loose or anything. any ideas? otherwise, the car seems to run fine. it hovers right around 1000 rpm normally till,like i said, you put it in gear.

  • Have you checked the codes? Is there a problem with the idler motor or circuit? Unfortunately, I think you still have an intake leak. It should not idle at 1000 RPM when not in gear. It should be 750 to 800. It should drop back to around 700 to 750 in gear.

    Did you get all your surfaces clean? Are you sure you have not had a gasket slip on reassembly? I think one of these two things is likely the issue. Try squirting carb cleaner in all ares of the replaced gaskets, and see if idle increases. I do believe your repair was not properly carried out most likely.
  • the idle was more around what you said it should be. It idles around 850 normally. I have checked the gaskets and every other area that i did. I was on another website which i think it was where you can chat with an actual mechanic. He had me try several things and the last thing he had me try was to take the big vacuum hose off that comes from the plenum to the Brake booster. He said pull it off at the plenum and cap it. he said sometimes the brake booster goes bad when the car is that old (94) and it leaks vaccuum. when it goes bad it takes away vacuum from the motor when you push on the brakes. when i did what he said and then put the car in gear and pushed on the brakes the idle stayed the same instead of dying or dropping idle. it worked. but one thing i hadnt done was let the motor warm up when i did that test. It seems that 1. the engine has to be warm 2. you push on the brakes for more than about 20 seconds like you are stopped at a long light. i was at starbucks getting a frappachino and it almost died in the line. I am puzzled. it runs fine when i am driving around and when i have it in park and neutral. I had a mechanic friend of mine check it out and he did find a vacuum hose that was bad and replaced it. it still has the same problem.
  • Have you checked the idler solenoid codes? The idler bypass solenoid should stop this stall.
    You can check codes from the ignition switch. Turn the switch on, off and then on fairly quickly, and count the flashes from the check engine light. A series of two sets of five flashes in a row, is 55. That should always be the only code, unless the battery was recently disconnected and you will get a one two flash, which is 12, and then fifty five. Any code flashed before 55 code is a fault code.
  • One other thing. Did you resynchronize the throttle bodies after re installation?
  • I just got everything else repaired and now the LHS started overheating today. One thing i dont like about this particular vehicle is the cooling system. it has one of those self contained radiators that doesnt have a cap on top of it. the overflow tank is near the firewall on the passenger side. I have recently replaced the thermostat. ( I had to take it off when I replaced the intake manifold gaskets). what should i check first on the cooling system. We actually changed the fluid about 3 months ago. What is a good way to tell if the radiator is clogged?
  • Yes, I did Sync the throttle bodies. everything seems to have worked itself out. Please see my other post about the cooling system. Any info would be good


  • First assume that the over heating is related to your repair until proved otherwise.

    The first thing that comes to mind is air locks in the cooling system. When the radiator is drained AND filled the heater must be full on. If it wasn't then drain and start again. Also as it first warms up after filling, bleed off the air by opening the air release valve on top of the thermostat housing. Remember the heat must be switched full on with the engine running before draining, as it needs the electrics up and vacuum to set the heater full on.

    Talking of the thermostat, make sure it is correctly oriented. It is eccentric, so make sure it not only is the right way round, but that none of the struts is impeding flow. Most modern thermostats are very sensitive to correct orientation.

    The third and worst possibility is that you have leak of coolant into the manifold due to a gasket leak around a waterway on the intake manifold. Did you put a bead of blue RTV sealant around the waterways on the intake manifold, as specified in the repair manual? If you are leaking water and replacing it with air, then you should see a white sweet smelling exhaust, especially on first starting up.
    Also a plug or two will show evidence of water present during combustion.

    Those are my thoughts on things to check.
  • Is the original exhaust pipe spliced before or at the wye ?
  • nbeltnbelt Posts: 13
    so i got a working heater control and now it wont blow hot air?? im told that you have to take the entire dash out to access any of the components that could be causing this, i.e the actuator that opens and closes the door to allow hot air to come through. does anyone know if any of this stuff can be accessed without taking the dash out?
  • Your information is very sparse. What problems have you had, and why did you replace the ATC unit?

    As you select modes does air blow from the correct locations?

    Have you done any work on the cooling system, or drained it for any reason?

    The heating cooling system is complicated, and you need an accurate diagnosis before pulling ANYTHING apart.

    You can get fault codes from the ATC . Have the engine idling and the temperature set to 75 degrees. Hold down the top two left buttons and the top farthest right, (floor, mix and defrost). Hold them down simultaneously until the display section blinks, then release them at the same time. The display will blink for a while and then show any double digit trouble codes from 23 to 36.

    The display can only display one code at once. To move to the next code, press and release the lower left button (panel). Continue until all fault codes are displayed. Record them and post back here.
  • Man! i wish i had found this site earlier. I my transmition has a problem with stickin in first gear and my heater is out what did you do to fix your problems. Cause i am stilll having transmition problems after having it rebuilt
  • What could cause this car to burn to rich? I have decreased gas millage, decreased power and I can smell a gas/exhaust mix when I come to a stop light. I have to roll the windows down.

    What components are responsible for gas/air mixture?

  • I suspect it is not burning rich, but leaking gas, which is very dangerous. There was a recall on those vehicles, for leaking fuel rails. Check that this vehicle had the fuel rails replaced under the recall, by contacting a Chrysler dealer. Have them check you VIN and make sure the recall was done. If it was not done, get it done.

    Even the replaced rails fail more often than they should.

    Check for fuel leaks first, especially from the fuel rails. If there is no leak, then check engine codes which can be done from the ignition switch.
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