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Chrysler LHS



  • Problem Solved.!!
    the New ignition switch worked. It solved all the problems. The Airbag and abs lights went out, and the power windows worked as well as the heat and air. I am so glad since the cold weather is here. I can safely drive it again. If anyone has this same problem, I hope they see this post. Now all i have to do is some brakes and i think i should be good for now.

    Thanks again..

  • Thanks for posting back that is really good information.
  • Were you ever able to find out what was wrong with this car, my 95 is doing the EXACT same thing you describe and I would love to know what it is before I spend thousands trying to figure it out! Thanks! Anybody else who knows feel free to chime in either. None of the gauges work in the dash and the transmission gets stuck at the same time (son't shift out of 1st or 2nd gear and engine revs very high). Seem to be related to eachother interestingly enough.
  • bossdawgbossdawg Posts: 1
    Sounds like your battery is dying or alternator is going might want to have your charging system checked
  • tsurnicktsurnick Posts: 42
    My LHS wont start. I thought it was the starter and replaced it. the new one wouldnt work either. I took both of them back to the auto parts store and they tested them. they both worked. I gave them the new one back that i bought. I went to put the old one back on and a big part of the solonoid broke off. I just got the new solonoid and put it on. I also changed the connector on the small gauge wire that goes to the ignition switch I think.... Now when i connect the positive cable on the battery, the starter motor spins. I tried switching the negative and positive cables fro the battery around thinking that i had orriginaly hooked it up wrong. it does the same thing no matter how its hooked up. It sounds like the motor is spinning but the solonoid is not engaging and starting the car. before i fixed that green wire that connects to the starter as well i was not getting any thing before.
    any Ideas? bad ignition switch? I am confused
  • tsurnicktsurnick Posts: 42
    My LHS wont start. I replaced the Starter solonoid, the Motor just spins as long as the battery cables are connected. If you pull them off the motor stops. The only other thing that i fixed was the green wire connector that goes to the clip on the solonoid. i think that wire goes to the ignition switch. I did replace the ignition switch a few months ago. Could the ignition switch be the cause of the problem.
  • amgpamgp Posts: 5
    On my 1994 LHS, the doors will lock or unlock by themselves and/or the trunk release will activate completely on its own. I've only noticed this when the car is parked and the engine off. I'll leave the car for sometimes only a few minutes, and when I come back, the trunk will be popped open or the locks will be unlocked (or they'll be locked if I left them unlocked). This also happens overnight sometimes when the car is in the garage.

    Does anybody have any ideas on what may be causing this or how to fix it?
  • just_me2just_me2 Posts: 3
    the past few days my 95 lhs transmission has been acting crazy, day 1 I left the house and noticed that it was'nt changing gears, 'I thought it was 1st' but after it sat for a while and i would drive around the block i would feel it shift from low to 2nd but just stay there. my buddy checked it-fluid was fine, he tried driving it to 45mph and shifting to park then to drive but that did nothing, day 2 it drove just fine for many trips, then i felt a little jerking in the tranny then it went back to 2nd and just stayed there. day 3 same thing just fine for half the day, but on the freeway doing 70 it went into a neutral with no gears catching until my speed dropped to about 40 then it jerked and went back to 2nd.. i will change the fluids and filter when i get some dough.. any ideas if that does not help? thank you in advance.. sorry the note is so long.
  • joey535joey535 Posts: 2

    Could you tell me what a code 36 would mean? I did the test you mentioned on a posting in 09 since I'm having problems with my a/c coming on and cooling good then going off and nothing.

  • There is no code 36. Code 35 is the radiator fan circuit.

    I would make sure both electric fans operate.

    However I would bet that your problem is gradual loss of Sarn 5 refrigerant. These A/C systems are prone to that.

    Now unlike the old Freon, Sarn 5 is a mixture of gasses and the low molecular weight gasses are lost preferentially. This means the refrigerant can not be topped up. You have to drain and discard the whole refrigerant. New Sarn 5 refrigerant is then replaced to the correct pressure.

    Expect to pay about $100 for this service. Make sure the tech adds lubricant with the refrigerant.
  • rustyroserustyrose Posts: 2
    Hello! I'm hoping someone can help me. I just bought my daughter a 2001 LHS two days ago. Seems great. Brought it home..sat 3 hours...didn't want to start until the third try. It was trying to...but couldn't. 2nd problem...while on the highway after about 10 minutes it started jerking (or pulling back like)...then it would stop and not do it again for also stalled out on us while idling in a drive way and almot at a stop sign.
    Uggg. The mechanic does't know what is going on at the dealership...but I'm still w/in my 30 days and I need to figure this out so I don't end up with a HUGE BILL. Any help from you guys would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!! Thank you in advance!!
  • rustyroserustyrose Posts: 2
    I know it's been awhile since you guys wrote this...but I'm kind of wondering if you might be able to help me figure out what is wrong w/ the car I just bought my daughter. Problems: Doesn't want to start until 2 or three times trying...then starts fine until it sits for a while...then same thing. Going down the road after 10-15 minutes driving it does like a pulling thing (jerky pull back) a couple of times...then it's fine for a bit...then again.
    The more we drive it...the worse it gets. It has also stalled out on us just sitting still a couple of times.
    I've had a few mechanics tell me they think it might be the fuel pump....but I don't know.
    I'm still w/in my 30 day warranty and I can't have the transmission or engine dying on me any time soon. The car is a 2001 LHS w/ 95,000 miles. We paid $3800 +fees. Any help you can give me would be AWESOME! Thank you!
  • swans500swans500 Posts: 4
    I have experienced all three problems at one time or another on my '96 LHS which has only done 60,000!
    Bought it 2 years ago and for no apparent reason it would not start...not a turnover, nothing and then suddenly did start....Chrysler put in a new ignition (in the wheel column, where the key fits in))...quite cheap and fixed that problem. Until several months ago the car ran like a dream but then, very infrequently, has done that "jerky pulling back thing", when cruising along at about 50/60. Also, occasionally....sitting at a light it just stops spluttering, just cuts out. Often I don't even realise it until I hit the pedal to move off!!! Restarts straight away and that's it for a while.

    Took it into Chrysler who said they could find no problem other than...."Don't let the fuel get too low"????!!!!
    It still does these things, not often, maybe once every several hundred miles. But I am nervous about it unpredictable, but seems like one of those things that the mechanics cannot see unless it occurs while in their possession. Which of course it never does!!!!
  • 1). Check engine codes.

    If no codes: -

    1). Change fuel filter.

    If no improvement: -

    2). Check fuel pressure and make sure pressure is not leaking down after shut down. These vehicles are known for fuel rail leaks. There was a recall on it. Make sure it was done.

    3). If idle is rough change intake manifold gasket. They fail on all these vehicles.

    4). Change spark plugs and wires this is likely due anyway.

    5). At the current mileage it is due to have the timing belt changed.

    Always assume the last owner was a moron. Every time you buy a used car that age at that mileage, assume it needs to have at least $2000 spent on it to properly set it up. Usually for a time before sale vehicles are neglected, at least that is my experience.

    The LHS is a really great car, and if you spend the money to set it up or take the time to do it yourself it will be a good performer.

    All vehicles have known issues and these have less than most and not as serious as most.

    People these days are so daft they expect vehicles to run for ever without maintenance!
  • i just bought this car and thought i was getting a good deal but if you press the accelerator too hard it chugs and will barely go.. if you lightly step on the pedal it does not do this. when it is chugging the check engine light is flashing and so is the cruise control light.. i have a baby on the way and cont have this continue??? and clues as where to start?
  • I would replace the Idle air control valve and the throttle position switch. Most people can do them with very few tools. they are about 50 dollars when you get them both together.

    hope this helps
  • I would really doubt it is either of those issues. The idler motor failure would cause stalls coming to a stop. The check engine light should stay on with a bad throttle position sensor. Any how check the OBD codes.

    To me this sounds like classic fuel starvation.

    I would replace the fuel filter, so you know it is not plugged, then do a fuel pump pressure test. There is access for a gauge on the fuel rails.

    My guess is you will most likely find it is a bad fuel pump.

    Now lets see how I do on stump the chumps. Please post back when you know what it is.

    By the way vehicles like the LHS are far too complicated for shot gun repairs, like was suggested to you. You have to be certain of the problem before changing parts.
  • One other thought, it might be a bad fuel pressure regulator, but that should drop out on pressure analysis.
  • my alarm is constantly going off. ive tried starting the car and locking unlocking. now just want to take the fuse out so it'll stop. which fuse will stop the alarm. also wat else might be affected.
  • Check the engine codes.

    I had that once and it totally puzzled me. For some reason I checked engine codes. The code was for a bad vacuum line. I found the line and replaced it and the horn stopped going off!

    So there must be an interaction deep in the BIOS of the computer board between some codes and the alarm.

    That is one of the weirdest problems I ever encountered on a vehicle.
  • I am posting this way too late. Sorry it took me so long to get back.
    The solution to my car not starting was a bad starter, but it was also the one wire that clips to the starter solonoid with a little clip that kind of looks like a speaker connector, just bigger. I actually could not find a replacement connector that was good. I went to a couple junk yards but they didnt have the starter or wiring harness. I called the Chrysler dealership and they said that they didnt sell that little clip by itself, but you could buy the entire wiring harness for about 400.00. This is the clip that hooks to the solonoid next to the battery cable. I think it goes to the ignition. What happend is that it got hot and melted a little and with some oil from the engine, the connector went bad. I found a 90 degree speaker connector and it fit perfectly. I did use some zip ties and criscrossed them to help hold the connector on. its been on there for about 6 months and holding now.
    I hope this post helps someone even though its way late.
    I will try to keep up with the posts better.

    anyone know how to get scratch's out of a windshield from the windshield wipers?
    their not real bad, just drive me crazy after a while.


  • I just purchased my 2001 LHS a month ago, and I'm already having problems. I was driving on the interstate, and all of a sudden the car overheated and died. I had the car towed to a mechanic, and they told me that the timing belt needed replaced, along with the water pump and the tensioner pulley. $547 later, I had all this replaced and I thought everything was going to be fine. The day I took it home, the check engine light started blinking on me. I noticed that when I was in park or stopped at a light, the car would start shaking a little as well. When I got out of the car, I smelled a very faint burning smell as well. I plan on taking the car back to the mechanic, but it's Friday and the shop doesn't open again until Monday. Anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong?
  • It needs new intake manifold and fuel rail gaskets most likely. It is also possible because of the overheating there are cylinder head gasket problems and possibly cracked or warped heads.

    This vehicle will need very careful assessment. Over heating is a very serious problem in modern vehicles since going from cast iron to aluminum heads.

    When a modern vehicle over heats, there is usually another shoe to drop and often a closest full of shoes to fall.

    Timing belts and water pumps need changing preemptively. For that vehicle every 90,000 miles.
  • The mechanic checked out the head gaskets and said that everything was fine in that department. I don't really know much about cars, so I'm just trusting what he has told me. He said he checked the engine for internal damage when he was replacing the timing belt and everything else, and he said that everything looked fine. Is this something that is separate from the engine? Also, should I avoid driving it until I can get it to the shop on Monday?
  • I don't know how you would check those sort of things out before changing the timing belt and pump. You have to have a working engine.

    My guess is the water pump leaked, but it is disturbing it got hot enough to shut the engine down. A timing belt braking just shuts the engine down, it does not cause over heating.

    When you change a water pump on these cars you always change the timing belt and if you change a timing belt you change the water pump.

    Now the intake manifold gaskets on these engines are made of a nasty plastic that gets brittle and fails. All these engines have this happen. Mine did. Over heating would certainly hasten this process along.

    Replace the gaskets with better quality after market ones. I did mine myself.

    I would not drive the car.

    Have your mechanic do a test for exhaust gasses in the coolant. If there are, then there is a bad head gasket and or a cracked head from the overheating.

    If there does not seem to be a problem there, and hopefully there is not, then turn attention to the intake manifold gaskets.

    In these vehicles intake manifold gasket failure manifests itself in a unusual way, that stumps a lot of good mechanics.

    It results in a lumpy idle. There is a strange irregular miss, that rotates around the cylinders. What is confusing is that as you pull plug leads, or injector connections one by one, there is no drop in rpm.

    This leads mechanics on an erroneous search for valve timing problems!

    Usually intake gasket problems result in engine loping, but not these!

    Have your mechanic run the engine at idle, and hopefully it is shaking like mad. Then have him squirt carb cleaner under the plenum, just above the thermostat housing.

    If the idle smoothes out as he squirts the cleaner, then the intake manifold gaskets need replacement. The fuel rails have to be removed so he needs those as well and a thermostat and EGR return gasket. It is quite a big job.
    It took me two days, but I took it steady and I'm not a pro.

    The other thing that makes this confusing, is that it generally does not show as a vacuum leak in the engine code, but it can. Mine did not, which really confused me.
  • amgpamgp Posts: 5
    Great advice by tuscanskipper. With his excellent instructions, I replaced my intake manifold gaskets a couple of years ago. Like he said, the original gaskets on these cars are horrible.

    Another thing to check out is your spark plug wires (also called ignition wires). My engine was running very rough, and it made the whole car shake. It turned out to be bad spark plug wires. I could actually see burn marks with small holes in the boot near the plugs.
  • diciembresdiciembres Posts: 5
    edited March 2011
    The car isn't shaking really terribly; it's just a slight shake when the car is idle. As far as the flashing engine light is concerned, I only noticed it happening when I turned the headlights on, which I neglected to mention in my original post. Any thoughts on this?

    Also, he checked the other things out for me once the engine was working again. He told me if I had any problems to stop back by on Monday, which I plan on doing, but I was just curious as to what it could be in the meantime.
  • Spark plug wires or plugs are a possibility. However I was trying to tie this into the overheating.

    I should reassure the owner, that these are very good vehicles and well worth the trouble and expense to set up properly.

    There is no perfect vehicle. All vehicles become known for certain problems.

    These vehicles are known for certain problems, and a lot less than most.

    Problems: -

    Intake manifold gasket problems top of the list.

    I think the front ends are a little weak. In the 100,000 miles I did on my vehicle, I replaced the tie rods, ball joints and control arm twice. Now Minnesota roads have more than their share of potholes. However I always drove the vehicle with respect. The engine is a pretty heavy weight right over the front end.

    Ignition switch problems. I never had that, but it is related to the high current required by the blower motor. You can mitigate this, by running the HVAC on auto. The the fan will have delayed start, rather than it blasting at start when there are a lot of high current demands from the ignition switch.

    Water pumps prone to failure, as I suspect yours did. I never had this problem, but replaced mine on schedule with the timing belt. I replaced the tensioner pulley bearing also. I think this water pump problem is most likely related to setting the timing belt tension improperly at the time of replacement. Any belt too tight will take out bearings. If it is a water pump, it will cause a leak.

    Trouble with the HVAC control unit. I did have this. When it fails the failure default, is heat full on at the defroster, fan speed max. This is a problem, as Chrysler charge a fortune for a new one. I ordered a rebuilt on line, but this had a different problem. Since electronics is my major hobby, I took a look at my unit and was able to fix it. It had a bad voltage regulator. However this is not a repair the average DIY mechanic would solve, or almost all professional mechanics. If you do have to service this, disconnect the battery, otherwise you risk deploying the air bags!

    The only other major problem I had with the vehicle is that the air conditioner compressor ceased. My vehicle was 1994. That was before lubricants were available to add to SARN 5 refrigerant. After replacement it had lubricants added and the refrigerant drained off every two years and fresh refrigerant and lubricants added.

    Those were the only problems I encountered from the time I bought the vehicle with 69,000 miles on it and sold it with 165,000 miles on it. That is a really good record. The vehicle drove like brand new at the time I sold it, a perfect drive and zero rattles.

    So what should you do to set up your vehicle.

    First sort out the current problem.

    Put in long life platinum plugs and new plug wires. This will give you good performance for 100,000 miles

    Do a thorough brake inspection and service as required.

    Change serpentine belt if it needs it.

    Service the transmission. Now here is another unusual thing about these vehicles. The differential is not in the automatic transmission case and is a separate service item, with its own fill and drain caps. A lot of mechanics and lube shops miss this and have trouble finding this gear case, but find it they must.

    Once you set it up do regular maintenance.

    I used synthetic oil, 5/30 and changed it every 7,500 miles. I never had to add oil between changes. The oil came out clean. With the oil change rotate tires and and inspect brake pads, and replace when necessary. Grease the greasers on the front end at this time.

    Every 30,000 miles service transmission and diff case. Flush and change radiator fluid.

    Lubricate doors and locks once or twice a year, and put a little graphite oil, on throttle body cables, hood and truck release cables.

    Every 90,000 to 100,000 miles, replace timing belt, water pump etc, plus plugs and wires and use the highest grade platinum plugs.

    I bought my vehicle in 2003 for $5000. I put 96,000 miles on it before selling it in December of 2010. I sold it for $2000 in ten minutes.

    Now that was really cheap motoring. All the problems I had are listed above. The rest was expected maintenance. The ride was comfortable and quiet always.

    So why did I sell? Well I'm now of an age, where I did not feel like doing the next 100,000 mile service. I did it last at 90,000 miles, the vehicle had 165,000 on it when I sold it.

    The vehicle was just starting to bubble the paint over the rear wheel arches. Now this was a Minnesota vehicle 18 years old at sale, and it was in darn good shape compared to the competition.

    I live in rural Minnesota, and I want to preserve my 1988 Suburban 6.4 liter diesel as a classic and keep it out of the salt as much as possible this winter. It now sports collector plates.

    So I wanted an AWD vehicle. I can tell you I had a really hard time finding a new vehicle that was not a step down from the LHS. I finally settled on a 2011 Chevy Equinox LTZ. I really like it, fit and finish are superb, and this was the only vehicle in its class that had a quieter ride than the LHS.

    However it only has just over 5000 miles on it. The Equinox had a completely new engine and power train in 2010. The 2006 to 2009 vehicles are grief. So I took a chance on this new platform. Only time will tell what these vehicles become known for.
  • I appreciate all your help. I am a little discouraged, as I just bought the car a month ago and I've had to sink $500+ into it. I am a college student, so I don't have much to really spend on my car, so it's kind of putting a strain on things.

    What do you think I should do next? The mechanic has assured me that everything is okay with the head gasket, so I know that's not it. Should I have the spark plugs checked? Would that cause the check engine light to come on? And should I avoid driving it altogether until I can get it looked at again on Monday?
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