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Saturn S-Series



  • heiarheiar Posts: 1
    My 2000 Saturn SW s-series has had TWO sets of front bearings replaced in the past year, and I think I'm starting to hear the high whine of the latest bearings already. Both repairs were done at a local repair shop that had the bearings pushed into the housing with the proper tools. Second set was totally replaced for no charge at all. I'm wondering if anyone else has had the problems like this. I bought the car last December with 134,000 miles it now has more than 150,000. Stripped down model...only perks are Automatic trans and A/C. I love the car otherwise. Should I forgo the local garage, where I've had all my car repairs done for more than 20 years, and go to a Saturn dealer instead?
    Any ideas? or comments?
  • What you have going on is that your security system is not being turned off before you get into your vehicle. To turn it off use your keyless entry fob to unlock the vehicle. Why the lights turn on according to the owners manual is that to prvent someone from driving off with your vehicle while the security system is active it cuts off fuel to you injectors so the engine won't run. One way to disable it is to use the key in the ignition a certian way, which you have found how to do. If you don't have the fob then go to a Saturn dealership. The code have to be entered via the computer jack under the dashboard by the service department at the dealership.
  • I haven't had any bearing problems on my 2001 SC2 (80,000 miles, so far, so good) but had a similar problem some years ago on another front wheel drive vehicle. Are the bearings they're using, original manufacturer's bearings, or some other brand? The seals built into a bearing housing are critical to the life of the bearing; possibly an aftermarket bearing with less than optimum seals might be causing the problem. Sounds like, otherwise, they're doing everything right.

    Going to the dealer for this, might be the best bet - despite higher cost, they're on the hook for the repair and have their brand's reputation to consider. Oh, yes....Get it done before Saturn goes bankrupt!!!
  • did you think to check your batterie connection, they should be loose, i had seen it on a 99' sc2 ans the positve and negative was loose
  • i made 330 000 km with mine, still running good but the tranny died. my brother made 283 000 km with his saturn.

    and see youtube or other video and see there a lot of saturn making more dans 200k mile and still running good
  • need new clutch, pressure plate plate gone bad , probably heated and make you this problem. 300$ a clutch and and 300$ or more to make install
  • a brake line must be kill by rust, you can brake only with the rear wheel, the brake light came on to tell you there not enough brake fluid, by the sensor, in the bank. check all your brake line and repair, if not, it's probably the booster brake but on my saturn, it was a brake line
  • do you have ABS brake on your car
    if yes, the service key may light on to tell a malfunction in ABS sensor
    if not, take it to saturn dealer and make it scan
  • Hello,

    I have a 1997 Saturn SL2 and it sounds like I am experiencing the same sounds you describe in your posting. Could you tell me what the problem ended up being and waht the fix was.

  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,094
    If you own a Saturn and are willing to talk with a reporter about your experience, please contact by Friday, February 20, 2008.

    Edmunds Manager UGC Click on my screen name to send a personal message. Need help navigating? Check out Getting Started in Edmunds Forums.
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  • I have a 96 SL2 and the wipers have a mind of their own. For years they would come on automatically,but only three or four times a year. Now its everytime I start the car. I think the cold weather in northern michigan has somthing to do with it. Any guidance would be appreciated.
  • milyronmilyron Posts: 2
    This year I bought a 97 Saturn SW2 DOHC with 100,000 miles. Three days after I got it. I had to replace the harmonic balancer, I noticed oil level was going down. So I start looking around. I found a lot of oil in the coolant reservoir. I had the car for a month and never got hot. The temperature needle never goes more than 1/4. The service light is on all the time. A mechanic told me that I have to replace the valve cover gasket. So, I did. But that does not give me any warranty that oil won't come back to coolant reservoir. And I got the system flush because I know that the hoses could swell once oil gets in coolant system. Now I check the coolant reservoir and I had seen oil in there. But nothing like before. The car still runs good. No loose of power. Do you think that could be Cylinder Head Cracked? Or Temperature? Or there is any other explanation for this oil in coolant reservoir? ">
  • ssklsskl Posts: 45
    Sounds like head gasket is allowing oil feed to head to leak into coolant. Oil pressure (@ 30psi) would surpass coolant pressure (@15psi).
    Before doing major work suggest removing cam cover again and checking head bolts for proper torque in correct sequence (middle bolts first for instance).
    As any engine gets older the headbolts should be retorqued to proper readings on torque wrench. Gaskets on some engines shrink with age like "old people".
  • ssklsskl Posts: 45
    I sent you a reply in Message #1384.
  • I agree with message #1384. The initial torque is 48 lbs with the treads dry. I wouldn,t go any more than that. You said that the service engine light was on. Did you ever have the trouble codes pulled from the computer? Most chain parts stores (Auto Zone ect.) will pull them. Also it is handy to have a manual. You will need it for the tightening sequence of the head bolts.
  • milyronmilyron Posts: 2
    thanks for the information. I appreciate your input. What you said make a lot of sense. Let me try it with my mechanic.
  • i have replaced just about every sensor there is in the car now its starting to shift hard the fliud is not low and it only shifts hard when im in low gear not sure what this is and my coolant level reads hot all the time
  • have you check the throttle body sensor my car did i changed and runs great i can go 200 miles on a take of gas
  • Just a quick question. Does anyone know why my 96 SL2 would start to overheat with the AC off, but does fine with the AC on? I haven't let it overheat, but it does rise to about half way or more if I would let it, if I turn my AC off. It's starting to get annoying and cold. I know the fan speed slows when the AC cuts off and picks up again when I turn it back on. please any suggestions? Possible a sensor or relay and if so which one?
  • 1997 will they are the same motor
  • My car is also doing that same problem that you responded about. Exact same. Ive replaced soo many things and Its still happening. What do you do to fix yours?? Please help me. Thanks so much in advance

  • My saturn does the exact same thing. No check engine light. I have replaced a whole bunch of parts and nothing has fixed it yet. WHAT DID YOU DO TO FIX YOUR PROBLEM??? Please help I am at my witts end im thinking about blowing it up. PLEASE HELP Thanks so much.
  • if the driving lights, the voltage to the lights are constantly available as they are also used to flash the lights when using the keyless system. There is a ground path that is switched to ground to turn them on. Just move the wires directly behind either light to find out which line got grounded. There is a wire splice with tape that caused my lights to stay on. I snipped off the protruding wire and re-taped.
  • bambiebambie Posts: 12
    1997 coupe.Front rotors will not come off.Are they rusted on or held on by bearings.I had a 1995 SL1 ,those rotors came off with no problem.Am I missing something? Any thoughts anyone?
  • How hard is it to replace the valve body for the transmission. The car seems to shift fine up until 4th gear, and bangs into reverse. I have read the forums, and have come up with it being either the PC control solenoid or the valve body. Is this difficult to replace?
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    Saturn brake discs are not held on other than by clamping forces generated by bolting on the wheels. I use a big gear puller and a torch to pull off the disks. The discs are not to be re-used when removed like this. They will be warped.
  • booboo6booboo6 Posts: 46
    The job itself requires quite a number of procedures, none really too difficult. There are videos on YouTube that covers the procedure. Here is one I noted:
  • bambiebambie Posts: 12
    I have done this job before on a 1995 sl1,no problem.The new rotors have M8 threaded holes for jack screws for removal.The old ones don't,What's holding these guys on,rust?
  • rbillieuxsrrbillieuxsr Posts: 47
    Bad wheel bearing --replace :lemon:
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