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Audi A4 2004 and earlier



  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 18,658
    Basically, am I setting myself up for a reliability disaster if I buy a '98/'99 Avant with 80+k miles on it? What sorts of things can I identify from a test drive that foreshadow huge problems? Thanks for any help anyone can provide!!

    Maybe, maybe not. I'd still have my '98 Avant if my wife hadn't insisted on keeping her blasted Saab. I had a great experience with
    Bronzehilde for five years.

    Have it checked out by an Audi specialist, (it'll be the best $100 you ever spent) maintain it religiously and you'll be alright at least for 2-3 years IMO.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • I've got an '01 A4 1.8T, and maintenance is starting to get expensive at the dealer.

    I'm curious - what is the best way to go about finding a mechanic to work on it? My local place where I took an old car would say yes, they work on Audi's. I think everyone will say they work on them to get the business.

    Any thoughts?

    For anyone in the Northern Virginia area with a specific shop in mind, do let me know!
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 18,658
    Geez, don't go to the stealer. Look in the yellow pages for someone who advertises that they are a VW-Audi specialist and you'll save considerably.

    I live near a small city of 35,000 that has such a specialist, I'm sure there are many in the DC area.

    It doesn't hurt to ask around either.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • Does just saying they are specialists make them specialists, or is there some type of certification/other documentation that I should ask about?

    Again, I've had a couple of the major chains out here say they do work on Audi's, but I don't think thay make's them experts in them.

    Thanks for the quick reply, by the way.
  • I bought a 1.8T fronttrac A4 new in 2003. I was never satisifed with the handling; even took it in a couple of times to have it checked. Eventually I just accepted how the car drove. It never occurred to me to suspect the original equipment tires (Pirellli P6). Finally, after 3 years, I wore the front ones down and replaced them with new Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Positions.

    The difference is so stunning I was almost depressed. The car handles like a completely different car. Now I understand why I was getting passed by SUVs on the twisties. Before, the car always felt vague and wandery when driving; it took work to keep it pointed straight on the freeway, and more effort to track properly in hard turns. Now, it handles so well I'm speechless. Easy and solid on the freeway, and practically defies the laws of physics when you push it. Now I see why people rave about the A4 so much. The new tires are also quieter and soak up rough pavement better (important here in the San Francisco bay area). No snow here, so they'll be fine all year round I think.

    I wish I'd replaced all four of those damn tires the first day I bought the car! That's why I said I was almost depressed, thinking about wasting the first 3 years of my car's life. If you're going to spend $25K to $35K on a car, it's well worth a few extra hundreds to get tires that let it perform like it was meant to. I'm not big on upgrading my car, pretty much keep my cars stock, but this is one upgrade that is well worth considering.

  • v_dv_d Posts: 89
    Hey guys,
    I`ve got a topic for you: I want to decide between 2 A4's but I can`t actually point one. Here it goes: the first A4 has 170k Km (110k miles) on it, but its sold by a Audi Dealer; the second one has 130k KM (80k miles) on it and its sold by a Used Car Dealer (which i don`t really trust generally). They`re both manuals, 1.8T Quattro, 2002, and the price dif is just $1K for the one with less mileage, they even have the same packs. The Audi Dealer also has the car with 18pics on the net and it really looks nice and the interior looks new (even when zooming). So my question is: Should I buy the one from the Audi Dealer or from the Used Car Dealer?
    Btw, the prices are $15.995 (first-170k) and $16.900 (second-130k). One is blue and the other is silver, both with 17" rims, if that'll make a dif.

    Thanks. :)
  • kevin34kevin34 Posts: 39

    I am trying to determine whether or not it makes financial sense to purchase my Audi at the end of my lease. It's an '04 that I leased in '03 for 39 months/10k miles a year. I only have 20.5k miles on it and the buyout price is almost $20k (including tax). It has leather and sunroof which I think is the premium package but doesn't have the sports package. The market seems to indicate this is a good price but I am still unsure.

    Thank you in advance for any feedback.
  • Up here in Canada and my car is about to go in for its 70000km service..I am totally covered on warranty bumper to bumper until 80000km.

    Just wondering what I should tell the dealer I think may be going wrong so they fix it for free now rather then me paying for after warranty is up...since dealer just bills Audi Canada/USA for the repairs anyway I thought I might take advantage of this and have them fix stuff that may be on its way to being in need of repair after the warranty is up and on my dollar..

    Thanks for any help!!!
  • Well, you need to drive both and see which drives better and make sure there are no major problems in the way it drives. I would say a new dealer can be just as untrustworthy as an old
    (used) dealer and if the 30k less miles are worth it to you, go for the more expensive one...and also tell the used car salesmen to let you take it to your local mechanic before you buy it...otherwise no deal. Then you'll know hes not selling you a flooded or damaged car...
  • Hi Mike, sounds like your brake caliper seizing. Mine was changed under warranty and problem never reoccurred.
    In order for the dealer to determmine that the caliper is defective, you may want to leave the car overnight with them.
  • I am Audi's worst nightmare really.. my A4 Q 1.8 litre engine seized at 87,000 kms....yikes this is not a joke... I lost alot of money on my car and I am still angry to this day... I bought a 2007 BMW because they have (apparently) reliable engines... I think that Audi should be held accountable for their engine sludge (and not reimbursing everyone that was affected by their very bad engineering) but apparently that is not the case,

    Teresa Peterson
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Hmmm, let's see here, eight posts in five or six different discussions, all with similar content about your A4 Quattro 1.8 engine failing at 87,000 kilometers (about 54,000 miles). You claim bad engineering, however, the hundreds of thousands of properly maintained 1.8T engines out there with more mileage than yours (many of which have run for over 200,000 kilometers with virtually no problems) suggests otherwise.

    As for your engine, my bet is that your dealership didn't use the proper oil (many Audi dealerships refused to adhere to the VW 502.00 oil standard for several years after it was published, some still don't), preferring instead to buy cheap bulk conventional oil. Said another way, I have yet to see a single case where a properly maintained (i.e. 502.00 oil or better every 8,000 kilometers) 1.8T failed or sludged.

    Assuming your dealership cheated on the quality of the oil for your car, is that Audi's fault?

    Best Regards,
  • I have an Audi A4 2002 quattro with the same problem. The remote door lock/alarm system intermittently beeps 4 times after starting the car. It usually happens in cold weather. It's the same beep as when I push the remote door lock button. The beeps are emanating from the trunk on the passenger side. There are no codes set in the computer and no trouble indicators on the dash.

    I've contacted the dealership twice and they have no idea. They are unwilling to ask the regional rep if he knows what it is, and unwilling to investigate further if they don't hear the beeps.

    On a different forum for a different car with the same problem, I saw a post that suggested the alarm system battery may be failing and need to be replaced. I found this info on Carguide's site regarding the "B6" model A4 introduced in late 2001/early 2002:
    "an alarm system with its own dedicated battery - if a thief cuts the electrical wiring the alarm still operates - and it also has built-in tilt sensors to help prevent tow-away theft." (quoted from
  • Congratulations - you just entered the nightmare of run flat tires and some serious reliability issues with BMW software. My 2006 had two major software issues. Hope you hvae better luck.
  • I asked the dealership about the "dedicated battery" for the alarm system in the 2002 A4, and neither the service departmnet nor the parts department have heard of it. Parts looked up the alarm system diagram and says they don't see a battery and they don't have a part number. So I guess the Car Guide article was mistaken.
  • Hello folks

    I am at a loss here. I've been researching how to place a fair price on my car which I have to sell. It is paid for and i hate to do it - but alas - as fun as this car has been - you just cannot put two 300 VariKennels into it for my two dogs ! :)

    I have seen pricing from as low as 25,000 up to 32,000 for the car I have with the mileage and condition. How do I know what to ask? People have internet access and challenge everything.

    I also know that ppl tend to think that their car/house/whatever is worth so much more than the next guys is (tongue in cheek here) but my car is still under warranty, has under 16,000 miles on it, has always been detailed, maintained for regular service, not wrecked, one non-smoking owner and garage parked. I plan to have it detailed next week after I take it for a service to have everything checked out.

    I love this car and have not had any trouble with it but I want to price it fairly. Any ideas? I've been to all the online pricing sites and thats where the confusion came in - all were very diff!


  • mikimmikim Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 A4 2.8 that needs a new transmission. It has 117,000+ miles on it (I commute daily about 55-60 miles). I know the ABS module needs to be replaced as well($1400 roughly). My question is, would it be cost efficient to get these repairs done given the high mileage and age, or should I consider getting a newer A4 with lower mileage? How long (mileage wise)should I expect my car to last?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    First question, Manual or Automatic and what makes you think you need a new tranny?

    Seconds question, what's wrong with the ABS module that indicates it needs to be replaced?

    Third question, what kind of shape is the rest of the car in?

    Forth question, who is giving you your quotes for work, a dealer or a good independent?

    Last year I was faced with a similar dilemma as you. I was then driving about 100 miles per day and my transmission went out at 109,000 miles (exactly). When I say "went out", I mean "grind, screech, full stop, ain't moving again" kind of went out. I decided that it was a whole lot cheaper to put a tranny in the old gal as I was racking up so many miles as opposed to buying a new(er) car and doing the same thing. I'm glad I did as the new tranny cost me $2,600, roughly the cost of five monthly payments on a new car.

    Regarding how long your car should last. Assuming that your engine has been cared for with good high quality oil and been treated to frequent (enough) oil changes, there is no reason why your A4 shouldn't last for a quarter of a million miles. True, you will have to spend a bit on maintenance and repairs to reach the mileage, but I seriously doubt said repairs would match what a car loan would cost you on a monthly basis.

    Now, if you want a new(er) car, that's an entirely different discussion. ;-)

    Best Regards,
  • 944s944s Posts: 42
    i need help,, i am a college student looking to purchase a pre owned 2000 A4Quattro with 67000 miles on the odometer. the dealership wants $9000 for it. i mainly need this car because i am moving out of town and i am sick and tired of dealing with a car that breaks down all the time. i really like audis, and i really like this model. i am a mechanically inclined person so i can do all of the basic tune ups on it,, i need to know from people who have owned it and to let me know it it is a reliable car,,, i have read plenty of good and bad reviews on this car so i am a little ocnfused! please help
    -ricardo :confuse:
  • ajg33ajg33 Posts: 13
    Not ever time I drive but sometimes when I start from 1st gear or reverse there is a lag in the acceleration (total power loss) for about 4 seconds and then the power comes back. Nothing lights up on the dash to shows there is a problem.

    Has anybody else experienced this and if so what was fixed to correct this problem? Thanks.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 18,658
    I don't think the A4 is a good car for a college student. They're solid, reliable cars but part and service are expensive
    so that when/if something breaks you'll be out some big bucks.

    E.g. Power steering racks may fail prematurely, IIRC it's over $2k to replace one.

    Having said all that I put 123K on a '92 A4 Avant without a failure worse than the auxiliary fan going out (about $600)
    but if I were living on a student's budget I'd recommend a Subaru. For the record I didn't have a car when I was in college. ;)

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • Having the same problem with my 99 a4. Did you ever find out what the problem is?
  • jdog6973jdog6973 Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem! But when I approached the dealer they treated ms as if I was hearing things. Even after showing them several post from the audi forum and also edmunds forum!!! What can we do to get them to explain this issue? I just want to know what is causing it!!!
  • We have a 1983 Audi 5000 turbo diesel that my son and husband are fond of. We are now storing it in the garage, as it was smoking (?blew a head gasket), and has rear end collision damage- rear lights broke and trunk lid won't close. They want to hang onto it, as they feel it may have some value as "only 500 of these cars were made", or feel it would at least be valuable as a parts car for someone. I say give me my garage space back!! Who's right, and if it could be sold for parts,, where would we post it?
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 18,658
    Junk it!

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • Are you looking to sell the car? I am looking for a 1980-83 Audi 5000 diesel or turbo diesel to restore. Where are you located? Any pictures? :)
  • jeep53jeep53 Posts: 49
    I just purchased a 2003 A4 Audi convertible recently. It's a fun car to drive, especially when the turbo kicks in. I'm still learning a lot about the car. I was wondering if anyone knows whether the ESP switch should be on all the time or just in certain driving conditions.

    Overall so far I really like the car. It has some turbo lag at the early speeds but that's normal. I had a VW Jetta that did the same thing. Any other information anyone can give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

  • jescuejescue Posts: 521
    the ESP automatically defaults to on when you start the car. The switch is there to switch it off if you so choose. I personally never turn it off. With the CVT transmission you really need the ESP to minimize wheelspin on agressive takeoff-the traction control is switched on and off with it.
  • Hi! My daughter is looking for her first car. We found a 2001 Audi A4 with 61,000 miles for $11,900. What do you think of that?

    Are Audi A4 Parts a lot more expensive than Toyota parts,etc if something happens with the car?

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