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Mazda 626



  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    Try Carmax..They will give you best dollar for your car and you don't have to buy one from them.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    I think he meant me: I drive mine because I put $3500 in repairs in 5 years into the car. That bill went to the extended warranty company, fortunately for me. Nonetheless, P100, don't stop there: how bout the 2 radiators, my second rack and pinion is leaking, poor struts, bushings and bearings, and on and on and on. To answer your question: I continue to drive it because I am driving it into the ground. The thing is useless otherwise; no one in their right mind would buy it for more that $2,000. Also, despite the rack and pinion, I have the thing purring (I do some of the work on the car myself). I guess my zoom zoom break in period starts at age 6, and after over $5500 in maintenance and repairs. Compared to my Corolla which lasted 13 years with NO problems, I'd say the 626 was a bad choice. Oh, I also enjoy how this 2.0 engine is zoom-zoom in the summer, but cough-cough in the cold weather. I haven't figured that one out yet. Oh, did I mention the transmission??? he, he, he
  • My 2000 definitely has the remote fuel-door release. Of course, I drive hard. :)
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    So what? The fact is that my 99 626 does not have a locking fuel door with a remote release. I had a 92 Mazda Protege LX with 1.8 l DOHC engine. It had folding outside mirrors, remote fuel door release, dash mounted clock, and was one great trouble free little car. When I traded it in, it had about 125K miles on it and ran like a new car. And it cost $ 7 K less to buy than my 626. Great experience with the Protege was the reason why I bought the 626. I needed a bigger car, and thought that 626 would be just as good as the Protege. I guess I made a wrong assumption.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Our DoubleOught has only 40K on her and she has
    seen a lift bay for preventive stuff only. We are
    thoughly pleased with our first NEW car purchase.
    Thanx edmunds for the research data. 130 ponies
    bridled to a left-leg-flexor is plenty of Zoom/Zoom
    for us. Luv that Tach Straight-Up
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,094
    some other people who appreciate Mazdas.

    Its funny, I always seem to pick a vehicle that so many people claim is crap and would never buy again and hate the manufacturer for building such an atrocity. I loved my 626. I did wish for a little more power and I really regretted not getting an ES instead of the LX, but that was my fault. And, yes, I did find the depreciation to be unbelievable. But I at least face the fact that was my own fault for not researching it more and realizing I could have gotten a great deal on a used one.

    My current car is the dreaded '98 Volvo S70. I bought it with 30K miles, its fast approaching 70K miles, and, guess what, not a single problem with it that I was so passionately warned about before buying it.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • edpagan88edpagan88 Posts: 20
    i've been searching thru the net at car parts sites and the cheapest spark plug wire set was $80. when i did a search at auto zone i found about 8 spark plugs that can be used on my 2000 626 lx v6 ranging from $12.99 to $1.99 for each plug. is there a big diffence on what plugs to use? i saw ngk plugs for $18 per plug and the bosch platinum+4 at $5.99 each. i also noticed a wide range of oil filters for this car by fram .
    i was thing of installing a K&N AIR FILTER on this car to improve the mileage.
    i've read all the negative stuff on the 626's and i have had some minor problems with mine but i just love the ride i get in that 626. i love it when i'm doing 70 mph and hit the pedal real hard , man she just jumps!!! i have 3 guys at work who drive newer maxima's and all 3 of them have spent more time in the shop than my 2000 626.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    I just received my order of NGK IX Irridum plugs(part # 2477 for V6) at $6.95 per plug (plus $6.95 for shipping)from

    These should be better then OEM platinum that lasted 60K on my car. I'm sure they also stock ngk wires for the car.

    As for oil filters I would use either PureOne, Mobil or Wix.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I believe they deleted the redundant clock as the radio has this function. Most manufacturers have done the same.

    Mazda's MSRP on their NGK platinum plugs (part number 0000-18-KJ13) is $13.70. If your dealer is charging you more that that, try
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    The OEM plugs on this car(at least on my 2000 LX-V6) are Denso PKJ16CR8 (part #3175)and those you can purchase also on They run $7.16 a piece.
  • edpagan88edpagan88 Posts: 20
    again you guys are great for advice!!! i was thinking of going to mobil one for my future oil changes. i put 3000 miles on my car in a month and i don't want to keep changing the oil every 5 weeks. i read that you can go up to 10,000 miles between oil changes using mobil one.any ideas?
    again thanks
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    yep 10K on Mobil 1 is fine as you can see from my oil analysis after 10K. Not to mention that most of those 10K were in winter weather which is typically more hard on oil. So good oil and good filter(PureOne,Mobil or Wix) and you are fine for 10K of zoom zoom :-)!
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    OK guys, give me the skinny: I'm at the 12 month mark on my 3rd automatic tranny. The thing is working better than the previous two. Do I go and get the tranny flushed, and add the Lubeguard (or whatever it was called), OR do I leave well enough alone and do it at the 2 year mark. This is a case when I am guessing: "leave well enough alone" is the best course of action. Suggestions?
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    what a fantastic post. I don't know about going the extra mile and getting a new cooler installed. I wouldn't know where or how much that would cost. I was amazed to read that there actually is a filter in my Probe transmission. I have always been told by the dealer that there was NOT one in these trannies. Nonetheless, I'm off to my nearest BG machine and having my tranny flushed out right now. Thanks.
  • Considering you practically have to disassemble the LA4A-EL/CD4E to get at the filter - and keeping in mind that Mazda dealers don't do this sort of thing if they can help it - "it's got no filter" is almost plausible.

    I'm on a 15k-mile flush cycle on mine, on the theory that it cuts down the amount of time the fluid has to deteriorate.

    (And '98-'99 models don't have heater ducts under the front seats, either.)
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Thanks for the info. For now I installed regular NGK plugs, ZFR5F-11, which Mazda actually lists as applicable for the 99 V6. They were about $ 2 a piece, and I do not see any performance difference, or worse idling. Do you recommend going with the original platinum plugs? When I took mine out after 64K miles, the center electrodes were in pretty bad shape. One thing that is puzzling is the recommended gap. For the original PKJ16CR8 Denso plugs it is listed as 0.031 inch(+0.0/-0.004) I do not think this applies to the regular NGK ZFR5F-11 plugs which I installed. The factory gap on those was about 0.04 inch, which happens to be the recommended gap for the regular plugs for 98 and older V6 engines. Also, when I took the original platinum plugs out, the gap was about 0.04 inch, which does not agree with the 0.031 recommended gap for these plugs. Any comments or suggestions?

    By the way, I always use compressed air to blow out the plug wells before I take the old plugs out. Also, I always hand tighten the new plugs (by turning the extension by hand without a ratchet) until they seat to avoid cross threading and damaging the aluminum threads in the cylinder head. I got a set of OEM NGK plug wires for about $ 100 from the dealer (with about 20% discount). I saw $ 93 price on the mazdastuff site on the same wires (recommended in one of the posts above). I think that is about the best price out there for the OEM wires. I priced a set of Bosch wires at Auto Zone and they were about $ 100 so I decided to buy the OEM ones.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I recently changed my fuel filter. I installed a Purolator fuel filter, which cost about $ 11.
    Some tips on how to replace the filter:

    1. Always unscrew the fuel cap first to vent the fuel tank and to relieve the pressure
    2. Unbolt the filter holder bracket from the engine before disconnecting the fuel lines
    3. Disconnect the upper line first and have a small bowl and some paper towels ready to catch the spilled fuel
    4. With the lower line still connected, tilt the filter and empty the filter into a bowl.
    5. Remove the lower fuel line and remove the filter. Cap the fuel lines with small rubber plugs until you are ready to connect the new filter
    6. Remove the old filter from the filter holder and install a new one. Make sure the orientation of the metal inlet and outlet pipes on the filter is the same in relation to the holder bracket mounting bolts.
    7. Connect the bottom fuel line first and tighten the clamp, then the upper line
    8. Bolt the filter holder mounting bracket to the engine block
    9. Start the engine and check for any leaks.

    Note: The filter is located on the driver's side of the engine close to the power brake booster, below a cruise control component which must be unbolted to reach the filter.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    0.031 is a recommended gap for V6 and PKJ16CR8 are 0.031 when new...but after 60K they wear out and gap increases and so does the voltage that is needed to create spark, mening your ignition must work harder. I would re-gap any plug that I put in to 0.031 for which ignition system is designed.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    on this group?
  • edpagan88edpagan88 Posts: 20
    how about new jersey !!!
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    is to see how many of them went 105K( and in those four states that is a timing belt change interval) with their 626's before changing the timing belt. I have 2000 LX-V6 with 60K and I believe I can go 90K before changing it. All 626's have same timing belts so I don't see a reason why the belt could not last 105K in rest of the country :-)!
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    I'm no help because my dealer ripped off its parent company by taking out my timing belt pretty early on (warranty item).
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    According to my '99 Mazda 626 owner's manual, the 105 K mile timing belt replacement interval is applicable to cars initially registered in the following states:

    California, New York, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Vermont, New Jersey, Rhode Island, Delaware, Maryland, New Hamshire, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Maine, and Washington D.C.

    The manual calls for an inspection of timing belt at 60K and 90K intervals and replacement at 105K miles.
  • white626white626 Posts: 5
    I live in California and all the mechanics, Mazda and otherwise don't endorse the 105k mile interval. I had mine done at 60k, since replacingit didn't cost a tremendous amount more than inspecting it. On my 1988 626 we went to 75,000 miles with no problem. On our 1999 Protege, replaced the belt at 88,000 miles. The only bad part of that one was wondering if that would be the day it would break.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You may be amused to hear that I owned two of the worst vehicles ever made:
    A 1988 Yugo, and 1982 Renault Le Car. I bought both of them slightly used, spent $ 1700 on the Yugo in 1990 with 18K miles, and $ 1100 on the '82 Renault with 30 K miles in 1984. And I had far fewer problems with either car than with my new 99 ES V6! Sold the Yugo in 1991 for $ 1500 with 30K miles, and the Renault for $ 500 with 65K miles in 1987. And both cars had better CV joints that the Mazda (no vibration).
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,094
    you only drove the Yugo for 12,000 miles! I would hope you wouldn't have had any problems in that time.

    Hell, I've got an Alfa spider in my garage that I've put about 5,000 miles on in the 4 years I've owned it. It has not broken down once. I guess that means its the most reliable car I've every owned!

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    That one is made in my former country, Yugoslavia :-)...
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    Thanks for info guys. So if I do timing belt inspection which in my case would involve just removing plastic cover and few bolts and the belt looks good I will be good for another 30K. I understand where the mechanics and repair shops are coming from. Something along lines of lube places which want us to change oil every 3000 miles. More money in their pocket.
    I know there is a risk of belt braking but this is non interference engine so only extra cost would be towing bill. I whish these V6 had timing chains instead!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Even better than the timing chain is the direct gear drive arrangement found on some diesel engines. I had a 1982 Datsun pickup with a diesel engine. The cam was operated by a gear meshing with the crankshaft gear and the injection pump drive gear. No need to ever worry about timing belts or chains breaking or coming loose.

    This arrangement is unfortunately not possible on oeverhead cam engines and therefore some of the best diesel engines made, such as Mercedes Benz diesels, use timing chain to operate the cam. Still better than using a belt on a diesel, which VW still does on their Jettas.
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