Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda 626



  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I was looking at a new Nissan TITAN pickup today and noticed that one of the rear wheels had two large lead weights next to each other. When I looked more closely, the tires were Bridgstone Duellers and the total mass of the two lead weights on one size of the wheel was 110 grams, or 4 ounces! I did not look on the inside of the rim to see if there are any weights there, but this reflects poor quality of the subject tire - 4 ounces of lead weights would be enough even for a 1100 - 20 commercial truck tire and is way too much for a light truck tire. In fact, this tire should have been rejected by Nissan. It is very rare to see that much weight on any new car or truck wheel.
  • lewshellewshel Posts: 37
    Yesterday I brought our 2000 626LX V6 Auto (66,000 miles) in for an oil change. After it was done the service writer said that the timing belt was due for a change. I checked the owner's manual which said that the interval in Massachusetts and four other states was at 105,000. I am anxious about this because while this has been a good car to own It has not been trouble free. It has had it's transmission replaced at 48,000 miles and the rear suspension bushings seem to be going again. I would like to know what other experiences you have had along these lines. This is our 4th Mazda and we hoped to keep it another year. We started out in 1979 with a 626 5 speed and then added a GLC Sport in 1982. After years of Toyotas (and we still own a 1992 Subaru with 165,000 for our son) we switched back to Mazda in 1997 for a 626 LX 4 cylinder auto, which ran fine for the first 135,000 miles (except for the 3 transmissions,a Ford POS. When it came time for a new car last March I swapped the 1997 Mazda for a VW Golf TDI which handles about as well as the old GLC but gets 50mpg. We still have the 2000 626 and I am getting nervous. My dealer has quoted 800 plus for a 60,000 mile service including the timing belt. I thought the 6 was the engine with the good transmission and the better history. I would not buy a Mazda with any automatic after this.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    If the recommended replacement interval for the timing belt is 105K miles, then wait until then to have it done. I believe that Mazda recommends that the belt be visually inspected at 60K for any signs of deterioration. What you need to do at 60 K miles, however, is to replace your spark plugs and plug wires. Recommend staying with the original platinum Denso plugs (available from for about $ 7.50 a piece, or $ 18 from a Mazda dealer) and original type Mazda plug wires.

    My 99 626 ES V6 has a manual transmission which has been bullet proof so far (77k miles). I had some problems with the car during the warranty period - namely bad CV joints and defective front hub. Also leaking coolant overflow tank, which caused A/C to quit working intermittenly. The only problem I had after warranty expiration so far was a failed trunk release switch. BTW I still have not changed the timing belt although they recommend it at 60K miles. It is the same belt that they use on cars sold in states with a 105K replacement interval.
  • Before you write the check, ask them what all it entails; dealers have a tendency to tack on extra services of dubious utility. Our local Mazda store has some power-steering-flush service they try to push every 30k or so.

    Regarding the timing belt: if the recommended interval is 105k, Mazda does indeed suggest inspection at 60k. On the other hand, if you're going to go to the trouble of pulling the cover to look at the belt, you might as well replace it and be done with it; you've already paid most of the labor charge.

    My 2000 LX has had no unscheduled repairs except for replacing a wiper blade following an incident with a vandal and fixing a small break in the windshield (high-speed pebble in the Carolinas). It is of course out of warranty now.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The reason that Mazda recommends timing belt replacement at 60K miles in some states and at 105k miles in others is that some states require that new cars sold in those states not require major maintenance before 100k miles. Replacing a timing belt is considered major maintenance. The belt is the same in all cars sold in all states to my knowledge. I asked my local Mazda dealer if there are two different timing belts used in the V6 model. The answer was no.

    I believe that the same applies to the 4 cylinder model.
  • The belts are indeed identical; this is simply the state intruding into an area where it has neither business nor expertise. (California, unsurprisingly, did it first.)

    I am inclined to split the difference and change the belt at 82,500 miles. :)
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    You still need to tell me what the code #'s were if I am to give you any help with your car. Your first mistake was taking your car to "EX PER TECH" (you're kidding right?). If you do enough research, and have the means, then fix it yourself. If you cant do that-take it to the dealer. Yes, we do charge more.....but pay me now or pay me later is a motto which I stand behind.Good luck getting any satisfaction from "the owner". Wouldnt be the first time a customer had their car "repaired" at pep boys or similar, and then the customer finally breaks down and brings it to us only to find out the repairs were covered under the 80k emissions warranty, or there was a special service program related to the problem. I dont want to hear all the horror stories now about everyone's experience with a dealer.....I know that dealerships arent perfect and they do screw people from time to time, but my 18 years of experience with mazdas cant be beat by any tech in an non-dealer shop just because he has a big red tool box and a lap top. ex per tech....lmao
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The remote trunk release switch on my 99 626 no longer opens the trunk. I can still open the trunk with the remote control. So I assume that the door mounted trunk release switch is defective, rather than the trunk lock actuator, which I would assume responds to both the switch and the remote commands.

    Has anybody replaced this switch before? Do you have to remove the door panel to get to it? Once I get the switch out, I will jumper the leads and see if the trunk pops open, If yes, the switch is definitely defective.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Would you replace the camshaft and front crankshaft seals , as well as the water pump and the tensioner with the first timing belt change at say, 82,500 miles as you suggested? Does Mazda require valve clearance adjustment on the 99 model at 60k miles? Removing the valve covers on the V6 is not an easy job and I read somewhere that you need special tools to adjust the valves or you must remove all four cams.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    there is a trunk release shut off switch located on the left sidewall inside the trunk. it's a valet bypass. I'm not going to assume you know this already because I had a customer in on tuesday with the same situation.
    Are the valves on a 99 v6 even adjustable? I'm not sure myself. definitely replace the seals and water pump while the belts off.
    also replace the drive belts for p/s and a/c.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I am well aware of the location of the switch in the trunk on the left side because the darn plastic cover around the switch periodically falls off, as it is not attached very well. I thought that this is an emergency trunk release switch mandated by law if somebody gets accidentally locked inside the trunk. Is this really a valet trunk release bypass? I will try to flip the switch and see what happens.

    Concerning the valves, 98 and up models have solid valve lifters, not hydraulic type. Did not know this myself, until somebody pointed this out recently.

    BTW, I already replaced the driving belts at 65K miles. Does anybody know what is the life expectancy of the 626 V6 engine that is carefully maintained? Is this a good engine?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Thanks rotarykid! You were right - I flipped the switch in the trunk and the trunk release works fine. I must have accidentally bumped the switch when removing something from the trunk.
  • The old rule applies: if it will be a pain in the neck to do it later, do it now and get it out of the way.

    A well-maintained 2.5 should be good for an easy 180-200k or more; it's very lightly stressed (even with the short gearing and concomitant high RPMs) and barely works up a sweat.

    Mazda recommends 48k between valve-clearance inspections, though I have yet to hear from anyone who says he needed an adjustment that early. The tricky part (and where the Special Service Tool comes into play) is overcoming the spring to see just how big a shim one needs to meet clearance specs. I can't speak to this directly, but I do know that my solid-lifter '75 Toyota Celica needed exactly one valve adjustment in 195k miles; somehow I don't think this is going to be a big issue.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I found out that Chevron Techron fuel cleaner does wonders for my 99 ES V6. I highly recommend this to anyone. The cost is about $ 5 a bottle (Wallmart sells it). Just mix with about 8 gallons of fuel (instructions on the bottle say up to 12 gallons)in your tank about every 5K miles and run the tank almost empty to get maximum cleaning results. This stuff slowly decarbons your engine, and cleans the injectors. Regular use will keep your fuel system in good shape and will prevent hesitation and loss of power at high speeds.
  • learnwlearnw Posts: 2
    Well I bought the 2000 626 Lx with 68K. The high pitched whine continued and belt noise developed. Two days ago it all came to a head and the car shut down with all indicator lights on (battery, check engine, temp at peak!!)
    It was the alternator bearings.
    Replaced the alternator (no cost)and belt and all noise has gone.
    Hope that is it!
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    48K and still going problem free. By the way Walter
    how do 'say' the year of your zoom/zoom. Does yours
    have a clutch...we luv our left-leg flexor. Good luck
    with this fine automobile.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I am glad that you found the problem. I have not responded to your previous post, but I have seen this problem before. My father's 1976 Olds 98 had a whining noise coming from the engine when one of the engine belts broke and got tangled in the other belts. It turned out that the A/C compressor clutch bearing got damaged and it caused whining noise.
  • Past couple cold mornings I noticed that my shifter gate(2000 626 V6 5spd) is making squealing noise when I shift from 1st to goes away after car warms up..what is the way to lubricate the gate and how would I remove the vinyl cover to get to it?
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    My shifter is making that noise as well, but only when it's down close to 0 degrees. I've had two of the vinyl shift boots replaced by my dealer because they ripped in the extreme cold weather, and the mechanics had to pull the console out each time to do the work. Not sure how easy it is, but there seem to be a pair of covered screws on either side of the console in front of the seats, and I believe there may be a couple inside the console compartment as well. I've removed center consoles from other cars in the past, and it's usually not difficult.
  • carguy58carguy58 Posts: 2,303
    sure beating cars to death isn't?
  • It's certainly not helping any.

    For the first time in two decades, I have an actual garage; I don't know if it will contribute anything to vehicle longevity, but not standing outside at 6:30 am with an ice scraper will certainly contribute to mine.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    the trick is to go outside @ 6:10 and turn the car on with the heat blasting..bye-bye scraping!
    .......unless you live in a less than desireable area, then it will be bye-bye car......
  • Wow..I have to pull the console off to get to be able to grease my shifter gate....I thought I could get in there just by taking off shifter boot..guess not...what kind of grease should I use anyway?
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Unfortunately, in many cars the shift boot is either attached to the underside of the console, or to something which is completely obscured by it so you have to pull the whole thing out to get the boot off. That appears to be the case with the 626.

    As for lubrication, I haven't yet looked at my shifter and don't know exactly what is producing the noise so I can't make a specific recommendation. Some shifters have pivots that can simply be greased, and some actually have a reservoir containing oil that can be changed (I've seen Miata discussions indicating that they have that type, but I don't know if the 626 does).

    On another topic, my rear suspension is clunking again. To whoever just posted about their rear suspension bushings (too lazy to look for the post), you're not alone. This is the second time for my car, first time was less than a year ago when the dealer replaced the rear sway bar links and bushings under warranty. Looks like I'll be back there soon trying to get them to repeat last year's work for no charge.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Some time ago somebody posted info about V6 engine knocking noise and associated TSB (cannot remember which post). I noticed that lately my 99 V6 makes very faint but distinct knocking noise when idling with no A/C on. The noise is very muffled but it is there. As soon as I turn the A/C on the noise disappears. It is only heard at idle. This is not typical pinging noise which can be heard during acceleration when the ignition timing is advanced too far, but quiet knock. Does anybody have any idea what the cause and remedy is?
    The engine runs excellent and there is no knocking at any speed, except very faint knock at idle. I never use lower octane fuel than midgrade 89 in this car.
  • Now you know why I moved. :)

    And as we all know, it takes a while for the 626 to start producing mass quantities of heat. (It's a decent climate-control system otherwise - one of the benefits of domestic manufacture, I suppose - but warming up is something it does on its own sweet time.)
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Our doubleought does this intermittently.We even
    emptied our trunk except spare tire and lid and
    ocassionaly it could be heard.To fliipin' cold now
    to empty it completely...she has 40+K.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    My 99 V6 warms up very rapidly when cold, unlike my 95 Nissan V6 pickup, which takes at least twice as long to warm up. The heater is strong, but then I never tested it in really cold climate. Compared to other vehicles I owned before, I certainly have no complaint about this 626 heater. I believe that 626 V6 engines have higher coolant capacity than 4 cylinders, and perhaps even a bigger heater core.

    Concerning the rear suspension clunk, I never noticed it in this car. Could it be that V6 models have different struts or sway bars?

    Also, I have not heard any squealing or squeaking noises coming from the shifter when shifting into any gear, so I cannot comment on that one.
  • That usually doesn't describe us here in Deepest Oklahoma, but you never know, especially in January.

    Consumer Reports once complained about the climate control taking a while, but that was on the four-cylinder model, I think. I don't know if the heater cores are different; the radiators are, I believe, the same, but the V6 probably holds a tad more coolant, if only because there's a greater area where the stuff has to run.

    There's a TSB on a rear clunk on '98 through '00, but it doesn't involve any suspension parts; it's the valve that controls the evap canister from the fuel system.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    My 626 has a V6, and it warms up quite fast, unless the temperature is REALLY low.

    I've seen the TSB you refer to, windophobe6. I've actually had that problem, but it sounds different. More like a rattling sound, only heard when starting out in the morning, and not nearly as loud. I'm betting that my current problem is with the sway link bushings again, as it really only makes noise when the rear end experiences side to side movement. It has been between -15 and 10 degrees most mornings in my area for almost three weeks, so that could be partially responsible for whatever has malfunctioned back there. I'm not sure what suspension differences there are if any, between the V6 and I4 equipped models p100. I suppose it's possible that some changes were made from '99 to '00 as well.
Sign In or Register to comment.