Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda 626



  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    maxx comes with wheels that are too small from a style standpoint, also corny rear roof glass, dvd player/screen had to be replace twice(while in stock) and IMO just ugly.......good news's cheap.
  • danyekdanyek Posts: 2
    My 2000 626 LX-V6 has hollow sounding clunks when going over several small bumps. Checked the trunk for loose items, checked below the chassis for loose brackets, etc, but to no avail.

    However - when I grabbed the rear sway bar, I could move the sway bar to the right and left wheels by about 3". Is this indicative that the sway bar bushing is worn? The ball joints look good.

    Any suggestions on the noise would be greatly appreciated - it's driving me nuts!
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    the rubber bushings that support the rear sway bar are probably the culprit. they cost $7.00 or so, and labor at my dealership to replace is around $35-$45.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    My '00 LX-V6 just went in to the dealer yesterday for clunking in the rear suspension. They're telling me a sway bar link is loose and in need of replacement. Didn't look under it myself, but it sure sounded loose.

    They're ordering the part for next week so I have the car back, but they must have done something to tighten things up a bit, because it doesn't clunk as much as it did before yesterday.

    This is the second time getting the problem corrected on my car, first time was in May last year under the B2B warranty. Fortunately, this time is also a freebie as I'm still under the 12mo/12Kmi parts/labor warranty from the first repair job.
  • wongpreswongpres Posts: 422
    For rotarykid, p100, windowphobe6, or anyone else.

    One of the lights behind the green gauge backlighting has burned out (so now part of the speedo is really dark at night).

    So my question is can this be a do-it-yourself job to replace the lightbulb? If so, what needs to be done to reach the lights behind the gauges? Or, do I need to get a dealership to do this?

    The vehicle is a '98 Mazda 626 V6 AT

  • This is DIYable with a little bit of caution. You'll need to pull the driver's side panel off the dash; the "meter hood" (the plastic surround) is held on by a combination of clips and screws (four of each, if I remember correctly). Once that's off, two more screws and you can lift the gauge cluster right out; the bulbs pop into the back.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    the bezel around the meter assembly has clips and screws behind OTHER dash components(side panel, lower dash panels, etc.,) and 5 or 6 electrical connectors that can be stubborn(especially the mirror adjust switch). My dealer will charge you $35 in labor to change the bulbs(change all of them while you are in there).
  • carguy58carguy58 Posts: 2,303
    Eliminate the number 1 and you got 626.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    right.....the exact number of things that have gone wrong with this car since I bought it!!
  • wongpreswongpres Posts: 422
    Thanks windowphobe6 and rotarykid for the info - I think I'm going to ask my dealer to change the bulb (and I can bring rotarykid's rough price estimate to the dealer).

    One more question though. I was also planning to get the timing belt changed for the car. I remember you all mentioned that it's a good idea to change one particular item along with the timing belt, was it the water pump?

    Thanks again.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    When changing the timing belt, it is recommended that you change the cam sprocket seals, as well as the front crankshaft seal. Some also recommend changing the water pump and the belt tensioner. The reason for water pump replacement is simple - if it leaks later, you must remove the timing belt to replace it anyway, plus hot coolant may get on the timing belt. Changing the oil seals is done so that hot oil will not degrade the timing belt (in case a leak develops due to faulty seal). The timing belt tensioner is a critical component and replacing it when changing the belt would not be a bad idea.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The A/C just quit working on my 99 ES V6 with 82K miles. The compressor clutch would not engage. Fortunately, it was just a $ 28 relay. I bought a spare relay long time ago, but it took me a while to find out where the relay is located. It is in the fuse box in the engine compartment (one of four identical relays). Plugging in the new relay fixed the problem. This experience leads me to believe that these relays do fail and carrying a spare is a good idea. At least I did not have to go to a dealer and waste couple hundred dollars on unnecessary troubleshooting.
  • That is annoying; you can't even be sure that they'll be in the same position from vehicle to vehicle, either.

    Probably saves twenty-five cents per car in labeling costs, though.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You are lucky you did not get a 929 (or a Millenia)!
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    my wife just got out of her 92 626 (180k) and is now in a 6. I was thinking of getting vanity plates like "626TO6" -- corny?
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    our 2000 626,DoubleOughtSix..to6, as I refer to our
    cruiser is f a r from corny!
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    did you just say I was clever? ty!
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    Which oil weight you guys use in your 626 during the summer/winter and what is the oil change interval that you practice?
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    10w30 high mileage oil. I change it every 5,000 miles. I now have a rubbing noise coming from the rear wheels. I can silence it by puting on the emergency brake while moving, or tapping the brakes. My pads and rotors are pretty new. I'm wondering what could be rubbing. The noise harmonics start when the car has been driven for at least 1 mile, and then at 35 miles per hour.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I use 10W30 Castrol GTX mineral oil. Change the oil and filter every 3K miles. I use only genuine Mazda oil filters.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Check if the rear brake pads are loose inside the calipers. They should have reused the metal shims which originally came with the pads.
  • Oddly enough, my maintenance regimen seems to be almost identical to p100's, except that I bend the 3000-mile rule during the summer, when I generally put on 4000 to 5000 miles in three weeks.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Have built up the center console arm-rest 3" and
    want to add a ski pole handle to shift lever. My
    question is Are the tops of your shift levers
    parrell with your arm-rests? Thanx
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    forgot to say that I use Mobil1 oil most of the time 10W-30 summer and 0W-20 winter(now in the car, we will see how it does) and 9000 miles interval with PureOne oil filter...I drive to much(>20k per year) to change oil every 3K and that is why I use synthetic, not to mention better protection that I get from it..and actually when you add up the numbers it comes out cheaper :-)))
  • hjahja Posts: 8
    My 1998 Mazda 626 (around 70,000 miles) loses power when the A/C is on and the driver changes into Park. When the car is in Drive or any other gear, there are no problems with the A/C. As soon as I switch to park with the A/C on, the RPM's go way down (the car almost dies) and barely stays on. Any suggestions? Much obliged.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    There is a neutral safety switch that prevents the starter from operating when the shift lever of an automatic transmission is not in neutral or park. Engine control systems adjust idle speed based on several factors, which includes the position of the neutral safety switch and A/C compressor status.

    It's possible that your car's computer is not getting the expected input when your A/C is on and your shift lever is in park, and is adjusting the idle speed improperly (due to a problem with a switch, sensor, or related wiring). It's also possible that the idle speed control valve or the computer itself could be the problem, but I think those would probably cause other idle speed issues as well.
  • edpagan88edpagan88 Posts: 20
    i have a 00 lx v6 that has a problem with reading cd's. the cd player will play cd all the way thru but when you skip around it just hangs and nothing happens . you can hear it spinning around fast looking for something. i eject the cd and it very hot.this it does with any cd i put in it.never had this problem before..
  • Probably the switch under the little rocker isn't switching. Can you change radio stations one step at a time?
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    a lot of our audio systems don't like writeable cd's- if that's what you are using.....
Sign In or Register to comment.