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Mazda 626



  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    There is no Mazda 626 with a 2.5 liter 4 cylinder engine. 2.0 liter? The 2.5 liter is a V6.
  • Thank you, I have LX mazda with 4 cylinder for sure, then it is 2.0 liter.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The timing belt is a VERY critical component. It controls the valve timing in relation to the engine crankshaft.

    A common problem encountered during timing belt replacement on double overhead cam engine (DOHC) with two cam sprockets is that the sprockets must be precisely aligned with the timing marks when a new belt is being installed. The valve spring tension will sometimes cause the sprockets to rotate out of the proper position when the old belt is removed, so one has to line them back up and hold them during new belt installation. One good way to prevent this problem is to use a locking tool, which locks the cam sprockets in place before the old belt is removed. This tool is available from aftermarket suppliers, such as Leslie tools. Unfortunately, it will not work on the V6 models because the sprockets are too far apart.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You can buy OEM Mazda parts from at discounted prices (about 30%-40% off the retail price.
  • Where can I get this "Tranny Cooler"? I'd need to have it installed as well.

    Thanks alot,
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,907
    Probably any auto parts store can get one for you. I got mine (for a 2000 626) from the Mazda dealer, and they installed it. Total cost was a little over $200. Have had no problems with the transmission since (about 11 months ago).
  • anyone have a link to the stereo wiring ? My 1995 626 has had the wires chopped off and I need to put in an aftermarket unit.
    thanks, Limbo
  • I don't have a link but I can give you the wiring fom the service manual

    L/H door speaker, blue with yellow tracer and red with blue tracer

    R/H door speaker, blue with black tracer and blue with orange tracer

    L/H rear speaker, green with black tracer and green with orange tracer

    R/H rear speaker, solid green and yellow with green tracer

    constant power wire is blue with red tracer

    acc power wire 'KEY ON" is blue with white tracer

    black is ground

    power antenna wire is yellow with red tracer

    I hope this helps.
  • wow, thanks for the quick response, will try to install it tomorrow. PEACE!
  • My car doesn't seem to be getting any gas. When you press on the gas the car just barely putts along. We replaced the fuel filter, but it didn't make a difference. Someone told us we need to replace the Emission Switch? Can someone tell me what exactly that is and is it something we could replace ourselves. Any help is appreciated.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    No such animal as an emission switch, but you need to check the fuel pressure at the rail and do a flow test as well.

    The fuel filter was a good guess but it may be something else that's clogged or your fuel pump is failing.
  • r0br0b Posts: 1
    hey my name is rob i just bought a 97 mazda 626 it has 127,000 miles on it it had a blown head gasket so i refurbished the head at a performance shop. i found the antifreeze leak it was the water pump so while replacing the water pump i replaced the timing belt and fired her up she started. i brought it to work and ran a diagnostic it came up with camshaft alignment sensor ( the ditributor) o2 sensor ( the one on the exhaust manifold not the down pipe) so i replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. the o2 senor ( i got it from a ford probe rather spend 7 bucks than $171 ) and it has a smooth idle but it is very sluggish under acceleration i believe the i am pushing the gas pedal way to far down to get the rpms where they are as well as at one point when i gave it gas more than half throttle it did not accelerate at all! if anyone has any tips or tricks please drop me a line this is my second 626 2.0 and i love it so iam not gonna give up on it my next step is a new airfilter checking for any inake manifold leaks and the fuel system it was sitting there for some time before i bought it
  • hicksduhicksdu Posts: 1
    hey i had the same exact problem with my 94 626 i have put so much money into this car but i love it so much its worth keeping.........but what i ended up doing is messing around with it and i unpluged my mass air flow sensor and i would not idle after that but i had all my power back so i dont know what cancels out do to me unpluging it but i works you just have to tweak with it to force it to idle if you figure out anything i would love an email thanks
  • Has anyone done this to their 626 and if so, could you pass on your recommendations or directions? I know it's possible, but the path I was taking lead to a dead end.
  • askperryaskperry Posts: 21
    I had a similar problem on another car. For me it was a circular plate that covers the crank shaft pulley. It had a notch in it to align the gears when reinstalling the timing belt. I put it on backward, throwing the timing off almost 180 degrees. The car started sluggishly and wouldn't get any faster than about 30mph with gas all the way to the floor.

    I found out after taking everything apart again and inspecting all of my timing marks.

    Good luck.
  • As a local commute vehicle, I have just purchased a 1997 Mazda 626 LX with 181,000 Km for $1500. I had a mechanic put it up on the hoist and check things over before making the purchase and he gave it a thumbs up, especially the price! I see from receipts in the vehicle that in July/07 the brakes were replaced all round ($450) and in Oct/06 ball joints, a wheel bearing, other steering related components were replaced ($450). The car seems to be running well and the only requirement is a good set of tires all round.

    Unfortunately there is no owners manual in the car. On eBay, I have a found a well priced 1997 Mazda 626 Cronos manual. I was wondering what the "subtle" difference was between the two vehicles (626 Cronos vs 626 LX).

    Some minor points that I would appreciate if anyone out there with the knowledge could answer:-

    1) The yellow "fill" window washer light is showing on the dashboard - I topped it up to "full", but light still shows?

    2) The A/C doesn't really seem to be working. For next summer, assuming I still have the vehicle, would a coolant refill solve the problem, or after 10 yrs is the A/C system probably in need of more major repairs.

    3) One of the inside courtesy lights in the door, which should come on when the door opens appears burnt out. How do you gain access to change the bulb - does the cover just pop off?

    4) One of of the two black plastic squirt nozzles on the hood for the windshield washer fluid is missing - is that easy to replace?

    5) For the standard 14 inch steel rims on this vehicle, what would the best tire size choice selection be in all season tire? (right now I have a selection of really bad worn tires, some with old studs from last winter)

    5) Given the age (10 yrs) and mileage (181,000 KM or 113,000 MILES)what further maintenance issues would I likely expect to encounter over the next couple of years?

    Thanks, looking forward to hearing anyones input.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    If its the former a tranny fluid cooler might be worth a thought.Timing belt replace recommended awhile ago,changed
    ours at 85K and still looked good. We love ours
    our DoubleOught
  • just bought a 95 626 dx for 1600 bux 192k runs smooth.but yes but, turned it off for work and sat for 8 hours ,tried to start it and wouldnt fire up,it has no spark at the dist.i fiddled with some elec wires still nothing ,pulled the cap n rotor off and cleaned ,it fired up.took it home where it sat over night, same problem. any ideas ? is it the ign coil
  • Well my car is running like its brand new. The problem the whole time I assume was the radiator. We replaced water pump although it was not leaking, radiator cap, thermostat, reservoir. Car still overheating finally the last thing was the radiator and once that was replaced my car has not overheated. I did take it to the dealership for this work, spent oodles of money cause had time belt changed while water pump being replaced. Freeman Mazda was great, they towed in and gave me loaner even with my car way out of warranty. So I am so happy now and cool yipee!!!! Now to replace to the rear bushings..................................
  • Does anyone even have a 626 anymore? Mine didn't make it, but he had a good run. He was an '87 model. A beater to be sure. I bought him with 91,000 miles and drove him until his untimely demise at 232,000. Seven years later. He had long been paid off. There were any manner of suspension problems that kept me guessing, but I learned how to fix almost anything. Now I own an MPV with personality problems, but nothing I can't handle. Frustrates my husband to no end. He doesn't understand. He's a Toyota man. Just curious if anyone was still out there.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    is still running strong w/ only 90K.I am so looking forward to joining that 6 digit
    club some day...never thought about the 200K club but that would even be sweeter!
    Check her out
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,907
    Of course! The 626 was around through the 2002 model year. My oldest son has my 2000 626 ES I4 AT at college, so it doesn't get many miles on it except the 400 mile round trip 7-8 times a year. Has about 96k miles on it and is running well. Looks almost new except for a few touched-up scratches, and the driver's seat leather is starting to wear a bit. Bought it a little over 2 years ago with 84k on it. Dealer did the 60k service before I picked it up, so it won't need a major servicing for awhile. So far I've put a transmission cooler on it (no further problems with the tranny after I did that), some rear strut (?) bushings to fix a rear-end squeak, a new driver's side mirror (driver error!), and an actuator for the power locks. And a new DieHard battery last winter. I like how it drives, especially the handling. Good highway car. The I4 is pretty gruff though.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Well, six years ago I purchased an '02 Mazda 626 ES/V6. I drove it for business for two years, and then stored it for a year before given it to my teenager who took exceptional care of the car. It had leather, Bose, sunroof, etc. I paid $16,000 for it with less than 5,000 miles on it. The only major work was a new radiator and axle. Other than those two items, just general maintenance.

    I traded it in last month on a brand new ('07) Honda Accord EX-L 4cylinder w/auto.

    They gave me $3,500.00 for the Mazda which with 100,000 miles was still running great.

    But I started a new job (sales-125plus miles a day) and didn't want the major maintenance I knew was coming up. (Timing belt, water pump, tensioner, struts) nor did I have the time to get these things done. If you do the math, you will know that it was a very reasonable cost per month to drive this great car.

    Good luck to those who are still holding on!!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,907
    Seems like a good trade in price for a car with 100k miles.

    I am really surprised you were able to find a brand new '07 Accord I4 still laying around! Must have gotten a really good discount on it, huh?
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Yes, it was almost $5,000.00 off sticker!
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 7,770
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  • I am possibly purchasing an 89. It's auto w 100K miles & seems to run pretty well no leaking/smoking & is immaculate. Asking price is 1600,and other than the rack&pinion steering(haven't driven one in a LONG time) , it also has a turbo charger. Says Gas mileage is about 32 mpg & that it can really GO! I just need a safe var to get me to and from work, and while I realize an 89 is almost 20 yrs old, I am womdering if there are inherent problems I should look for? Thanks for any input!
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    A turbo wasn't standard for this model year, so this was an aftermarket addition. If it has a turbo it was raced. In addititon with a turbo you have to keep the oil changes at short intervals or risk blowing the turbo. A turbo has the potential to cost over several hundred dollars (if not a thousand) to be replaced.

    Do your self a favor and stay away from any car with a turbo if you are on a budget.

    Good luck!
  • elrlawelrlaw Posts: 20
    What is involved in replacing a holed oil pan on a '98 Mazda 626, 4 cyl, manual trans? Does the pan drop straight down? Are there any interferences? Is there any special type of gasket material needed or will stock tubed silicone gasket material work? Thanks!
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I believe there was an '89 626 Turbo.

    Horsepower (SAE net): 145 @ 4300 rpm
    Torque (lb-ft): 190 @ 3500 rpm

    Many people feel that the power was understated to meet regulations in various countries. Regardless, 190 lb ft of torque in a 2700 lb car makes for $1,600 well spent.
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