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Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis



  • R92688R92688 Posts: 7
    To Canuckvic,
    My headlight covers on my 95 CV turned yellow and I read from another website that using toothpaste for polishing the surface will remove the yellow oxidation. I tried it and it works nicely. I have been polishing the covers for several years now. The fine sand in the toothpaste works effectively to remove the layer of oxidation.
  • canuckviccanuckvic Posts: 6
    Thanks people -- I'll try polishing before I spend anything on new lenses (toothpaste -- who woulda thought?)

    Funny how so many of my friends assume the CV is a 'gas guzzler' -- I don't think it worse than an Explorer or other largish SUV. I get 23-24mpg with a light right foot. I'm sure SUV's are right around there or worse. Anyway, my wife is totally sold on this vehicle now -- she really appreciates the quiet, serene ride as compared with a small Japanese car. The CV is the best kept secret on the used market.
  • canuckviccanuckvic Posts: 6
    BTW: Toothpaste worked great to clean off the yellow from the headlight lenses!

    My temperature gauge sits near the bottom of the 'Normal' range most of the time. I'm a little worried the engine is running cool...does anyone else experience this? Seems to me the gauge should be in about the middle of the normal range. I just flushed the cooling system but that shouldn't make much difference.
  • ronald18ronald18 Posts: 5
    Dealers and discount service centers in my area want $150 to $200 to replace the spark plugs in my '99 GM. They all cite the high price of the plugs. When I checked with a local auto parts store they had the original replacement Motorcraft platinum plugs for $2.49 each. I have two question. First, has anyone replaced their sparkplugs for less than $150 at a service shop? Second, can anyone who has actually replaced the plugs on a 4.6 V8 with the "coil on plug" arrangement tell me if there are any unusual problems with changing out the sparkplugs?
  • iusecadiusecad Posts: 287
    In December I had a local NAPA shop do a tune-up on my '98 Vic. They put in platinum plugs @ $5.41 each, and plug wires @ $6.30 each. Then they have a line that says: Labor - Tune Up $90. (But I also had a new belt & fuel filter done with that.)

    But anyway, plugs-wires-labor = $183.68

    And since I never really studied my bill until now, I'm a little surprised I let them get away with charging me $5.41 a plug...

    Runs great though, and I get 25 on extended hwy runs.
  • goldrangergoldranger Posts: 54
    It is the labor that costs. Was at a tire store the other day when an elderly man asked about plugs on a 91GM. They looked in their book and labor was 2.5 hours. I just got an 02 GM and also have a factory CD maintenance manual, so I looked at changing the plugs. From memory; remove the big plasic cover over the engine, i think you have to remove the tube from the air filter to the throttle body, unplug the wire connection to the coil on each plug, remove the coil (one small screw/bolt each) blow the dirt/sand away, carefully lift the coil and boot. (don't remember if coil and boot come together), remove the plug. Turn the instructions upside down and put the new ones in.....
    I plan to change my own probably around 50K even though the books says they are good for 100K. If you want, let me know and I'll try to post word for word what the instructions are of perhaps I could e-mail to you if you want.
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    Pacific Lincoln R & R'd spark plug wire set at $76 per hour times 2.5 hours = 190.00
    Kit Distributor Wire FMC F8PZ 98.76
    Hazard waste chg 9.50
    Sub total 298.26
    Sales Tax 26.25
    Total Charge 324.51
    NO new plugs were installed, just the wire(s)

    A Belated Christmas present to me.
    Pacific Lincoln is no longer in business.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Uhh, at this point in the calendar (which advances at frightening speed these days!) you might think of it as EARLY!!

    : )
  • iusecadiusecad Posts: 287
    with money like that, they should still be in business. :)

    Must be a Lincoln thing. In the mid eighties my dad had an '84 Town Car. When he bought it, one of the hubcaps was a cheapo plastic K-Mart one so he went to the L-M dealer to price a new one. I think it was in the neighborhood of $180 for one. So he went to a little hubcap shop and bought a close match for around $40.
  • ronald18ronald18 Posts: 5
    Thanks all for the responses. My Haynes manual gives the same direction that was explained by Goldranger. Does not seem too difficult. I will most likely replace the plugs myself. The car has almost 94,000 miles on the original plugs with no drop-off in performance or gas mileage. I hear that it is important to use an anti-seize compound on the threads.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    A reporter with a major midwestern daily newspaper is looking to interview a consumer who currently owns a Ford Crown Victoria, or got rid of one in the past month. If you fit the bill, please respond with your daytime contact information to by July 28.


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  • rogerdprogerdp Posts: 4
    I would like to get some opinions on whether or not to keep my current car. It is a 96 Grand Marquis GS with 41,500 one owner miles, looks and drives like new. I have maintained the car to a much more stringent schedule than recommended (2500 mile oil changes), etc. I hear so much about the composite manifolds cracking, that it worries me. Does anyone know the average mileage when the manifold is likely to become a problem? Also, (I'll bet Kinley knows this), in my factory manual it states that the front disc brake pads should be replaced when they reach 1/8" thick. What is the thickness of a new pad? The reason I ask is that I checked mine last week and they are 3/16" now. But if they were only 1/4" when new, I have several more miles left. If thicker, I need to be getting some pads now. I know this is long, but I appreciate the good opinions I read on this board. Thanks!!
  • dbc123dbc123 Posts: 105
    Ford does not list a thickness for new brake pads but I would estimate 3/8 inch. They are easily and inexpensively changed. (Rear minimun thickness is listed as .22 inch)
    I've a 94 and 03 GM and can tell you that the real big improvment is the steering. The ride, however, is jiggly and busy due to much more shock damping. Nowhere near as smooth as the previous cars. This is probably less noticable in the TC as it has a longer wheelbase and uses the slightly softer rear air springs standard.
    Resin manifolds sometimes fail as early as 30K miles and as late as 140K - or never! If the uncertainty of it bothers you, it can be replaced for about $300 parts and 3-4 hours labor.
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    in my opinion, Ford is obligated to replace all of the probable failure intake manifolds so as to restore driver confidence in their product. It's like driving with a time bomb under the hood. When's it gonna blow? A buyer should not have to pay $300 plus to eliminate a known hazard before it explodes. I've a friend who traded a car like yours for a new Lincoln LS. Why he decided to reward Ford with his business after selling him a faulty intake manifold puzzles me.
  • dbc123dbc123 Posts: 105
    Ford has only replaced resin manifolds in PI (police interceptor) cars; they contend that failure is more prone in these cars due to severe use. They will only replace these AFTER failure - not as a precaution. The manifolds were used from 96-01 and there are probably more than a million cars on the road with them. Although it would be very costly; I agree with Kinley that Ford should replace them all before failure. That's not likely to happen as Ford contends the failure rate is relatively low. If I owned a car with one that had lots of life left as rodgerdp does, I'd spend the $600-700 to replace the manifold ( be SURE to specify the aluminum crossover version). This is still much cheaper than buying a new car that may not satisfy as much as the older car!
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    As my 96-01 Formercoln 4.6 engine has the hazardous intake manifold which you replace after it breaks, I propose you replace it now with the aluminum crossover version. I'm willing to pay 50% of the cost just to restore confidence in my car you manufactured. You are to have my local dealer contact me within five working days to accomplish this task. Yours truly, Mr. Motorist.
  • rogerdprogerdp Posts: 4
    I have read your posts and appreciate the input. I'll let the brakes go a little while and check again. As far as the manifold goes ????? I agree with kinley that it seems a shame to reward Ford by purchasing another GM, but I would probably end up at the Mercury store again. There is nothing else out there that compares (V8 and RWD) unless you have $45,000.00 or more to spend and then you would have to go foreign. Replacing the manifold as dbc123 says is an option. I'll have to think it over. Thanks again!!
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    it is very frustrating that ford will replace the intakes on t birds and crown vic's but not the is a very poor design.the alternator is partially fastened to the intake where the failures occur.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 410
    Seems most everyone here is happy with their car. I test drove a Crown Vic LX Sport Saturday, but I found the rear end tail happy. That kind of burst my bubble as I thought the car would have had better road manners for the top end model. I also drove an Impala LS and must admit the Impala handled better. I've long been a fan of full size cars & have been looking forward to owning one again & keeping my SUV parked awhile. The Vic was fully optioned & very comfortable, but just couldn't keep the rear planted. Anyway, since these cars depreciate fast but seem to last forever, I'll keep my eyes open for a 2-3 year old car someone might get bored with & let go cheap since this board continually praises the longevity of these cars.
  • pkwdenapkwdena Posts: 3
    I'm new to this board. I have a 94 CV and a 97 GM. The GM replaced the CV as my everyday car nearly two years ago. The CV has 230,000 miles on it and has been very reliable with few mechanical problems. Recently, it stopped going in reverse. The transmission feels as though it slips in reverse and the car only moves in reverse when assisted by a slight incline and revving the engine. I had the lockup torque converter problem back at 40k, which I addressed by cutting the wire that powers the electric lock up. I also change the fluid at 50k intervals. Has anyone experienced the reverse problem?
  • Someone please help. I have a problem that pops up every once in a while.....Driving in tight areas (parking lots, etc) the car has a hard time turning right (and only right) if the power steering is out...but it isn't....the pump works fine. 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
  • captainjcaptainj Posts: 31
    FYI, I have a 2000 Grand Marquis GS, I improved the quietness by adding sound insulation material (similar to dynamat) under the carpeting, but I didn't do a great job near the front wheel wells because I didn't remove the existing stuff and they wheel wells are hard to get to. This reduced sound by at least 1 decibel. I also got the Goodyear Eagle LS front tires (didn't replace the rears yet) and that was a big difference. These are the stock tires on the 2003 models I think. I recommend them.

    I removed the locking wheel cover brackets on the steel wheels because I could not get them to stop rattling, I think they are a bad design. Also, the honeycomb wheel covers have been making clicking noises, I think they are a bad design too, I took them off so I am presently going for the "black look" :). I'm going to try to fix the wheel covers, I think I know why they are clicking.

    As for overly firm spring rates, god only knows what manufacturers are thinking, we don't race our cars, try, I got 20% less front springs and 30% less rears and it helped alot, but if I could do it again I'd go down about 40% from stock in the front, and 35% from stock in the rear. I recommend them.

    Happy motoring.
  • pkwdenapkwdena Posts: 3
    Have you ever checked your lower control arm balljoints? These joints fail after 100k miles due to the lack of grease fittings.
  • evolkevolk Posts: 9
    1.) Our 97 CV (140,000 miles) squeaks every time we go over the slightest little bump or even small rise in the road. Last summer, I sprayed some WD-40 on any joints I could see on the inside of the front wheels. This took care of the problem- for about a day. Until it rained, then they were back- even worse. I have been told they are sourced from the rubber bushings or gromets for the connector arms, etc.,... Also, I noticed the ball joints are completely covered up and have no lubrication zert. Could those be the source? The sounds get worse when it either humid or rain is present. The sounds are rather loud and are fairly embarrassing. What can we do about these squeaks? Where are they coming from and has anyone else had this problem?

    2.) Whenever we turn the steering wheel even the slightest bit, it makes a loud creaking noise. What is the source of that and how to stop it?

    3.) As the car is high mileage now, I was wondering when should we expect to replace the transmission/have it rebuilt? Our Chevy Caprice went out around 130,000, and it is a much heavier car, so I am wondering when the other shoe will drop. Or, will it last longer because of the fact it is a lighter car?

    4.) Starting to get more engine knocking. What causes this and how to stop? The owners manual says its somewhat normal if it is minimal.

    Thanks for all of your help!
  • I had the same problem on my 99 GM regarding the squeaks at the slightest bump. Someone on this board suggested lubricating all of the rubber contact points that the hood rests on. I did this with a silicone spray. No more squeaks.
  • captainjcaptainj Posts: 31
    I second that: lubricate the hood contact points. I also adjusted those hood contact points/stops on my '00 Grand Marquis so the hood shut a little tighter. That has done the trick, I am so glad, as it was squeaking like a rubber ducky and it was even 'embarrassing'. I kept lubricating all the bushings to no avail as I was certain the sound was coming from somewhere down low.
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