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Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis



  • xkssxkss Posts: 722
    Why doesn't the Ford Motor Company install the new 4.6, 300 hp V-8 from the 2005 Mustang GT into the Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis?

    It couldn't hurt. Plus, the 05 Mustang GT's V-8 has an aluminum block which weighs 75 pounds less than the 04 Mustang GT's iron block. It also pollutes less.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    Here, here!!!! all the other "minor" improvements cited earlier...
  • rkjmtrkjmt Posts: 1
    I was driving my 1993 Crown Vi , I heard A chirp sound then my car died. I have checked the battery & starter both are ok. When I try to turn it over I get a single click then nothing.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    No posts in 10 days. All drivers must be content with their Crown Vics and Grand Marquis'. I am. But then, maybe everyone got rid of them. Hmmmmmm.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    It could be the solenoid going bad, especially if the click is rather loud...when I used to work on cars years ago (and it may still be accurate for Fords in the 90s) Ford vehicles were the only American cars with the starter solenoid mounted on the fender well off the starter...GM and Dodge were always mounted directly on the starter...anyway, because of the way the Ford starter worked, the voltage required was always more than GM or other words, if the battery was down to, say, 10 or 10.4 volts, a GM or Dodge would crank and the starter would work...but any Ford product would require (if memory serve me correctly) at least 11 volts to engage the solenoid, or else you would just hear a loud click...what was so deceiving was that the battery would "check out" OK, but if it was right on the edge, the starter would not engage or was usually a good predictor of either the alternator on the verge of going bad or a battery on the verge of going bad, but either system would work for months in a GM or Dodge product, only Ford with the remote solenoid was that sensitive to a drop in the voltage or cold cranking amps in the battery...check it out more thoroughly...Fords are quirky that way...
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    It might be worth either jumping the car, or taking the battery out and getting it load-tested. If I was a betting man, I would guess the battery, since it cannot turn over the starter.

    If the battery checks out, I say it might be time for a tow. Crown Vics are pretty simple cars, so it shouldn't be terribly expensive. The key is to find a good, honest mechanic.

    On the starter solenoid, the pro of having it on the fender is it is much easier to replace than attached to the starter.
  • bigunit67bigunit67 Posts: 62
    Could Ford alter the Panther platform to incorporate an AWD option, or would that necessitate moving to a stretched "500" platform, like one link said the company is planning to do with the TC?

    I don't know if they'd want to steal any thunder from the 500, but if it were possible to modify the Panther platform so that they could squeeze 2-3 more inches in to the backseat area it would really be an upgrade for the car.

    The folks talking about inserting the 300 HP engine from the Mustang are hitting that on the head. Ford's V-8's are trumped by many competitiors V-6's. Diamler-Chrysler and GM are showing that engine technology exists that can help get a few more MPG in highway mileage situations...where is Ford on this front?

    Final thought...With the discussion of hybrid technology ever increasing, is it possible to incorporate THAT into the CV/GM/TC set-up? I've read before the engine bay won't accomodate the 5.4L engine from the F-150, but could a battery be installed that would help with fuel economy/total engine power and possibly "introduce" this car to a new market of consumers??? If not the engine bay, perhaps the top shelf of the trunk...Honda has put their battery for the Accord in the trunk, so it's not exactly unheard of.

    Just a few rants/thoughts from a guy that owns a 98 Regal GS and would like to buy a CV/GM...albeit with a few modifications ;-)

  • gene42gene42 Posts: 11
    Mostly in warm weather, when accelerating at low speed, I get what I think is spark knock in my 2003 GM. Dealer looked at it and made some parts changes in the computer which he said were part of a technical service bulletin advisory.

    Still getting the knock (like marbles rolling around). Should I move up to a higher octane or seek to have timing adjusted? I don't mind using a higher octane but I don't want to mess up the computer setting. Is the moderate knocking seriously harmful?
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    Before "messing" with the computer,I would try going to a different gas station or two. At times, there is some baaaad gas out there. If no improvement,I would go up to a higher octane. Pinging occurs when the gas burns as more of an explosion within the cylinder. A higher octane gas burns with a smoother woosh. All octanes have the same "power", it is a matter of how smoothly they burn.
  • ronald1ronald1 Posts: 11
    I experienced a tie-rod failure on my '99 GM with 124K miles. Given the number of miles on the vehicle, the failure of any component can not be considered unusual. The reason I am posting this event is not that the tie-rod failed, but rather the way it failed.

    I drove this car since it was new and when I drove to work on Monday the vehicle handled as well as when it was new. On my way home the tie-rod end failed. Like a light bulb failure - no warning except for a few unusual steering feedback occurrences (like low tire air pressure) in the final three miles. In the past my vehicles have always shown signs of front end part wear for many miles before I had parts replaced. I have never experienced an actual front end component failure before this.

    Is the rather sudden failure of my tie-rod end a freak occurrence?
  • dmersdmers Posts: 23
    I have to report that our Electronic Dash fuse is blowing again on our 2000 GM/LS w/93K miles. The Ford shop now disconnected the passenger Sun visor w/mirror light as well as the driver Sun visor w/mirror light and garage door opener__ for another $69.00 repair 3 months later. This seems to have cured the problem. We chose not to purchase the $800.00 replacement sun visors.

    I see why Ford/Merc/Linc have gone to the stationary inflexible dual sun visors to quietly correct this problem. I feel dual sun visors should be standard on all cars, like delay wipers eventually became standard on most vehicles.

    The 2000 model secondary dual visor was very adjustable vs the stationary secondary is not today.

  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    I,too,have a 99 GM bought new. 53,000 miles-my baby. Tie rod failure = ? Did it separate from the wheel assembly or did the connecting sleeve, which is quite thin, bend? Need more info. Thanks.
  • ronald1ronald1 Posts: 11
    The outer tie-rod end separated from the driver side wheel assembly.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    Total separation! I would say that is a rare occurrence. (Unless a curb or other immovable object was hit recently, or when the car was parked,with its wheels in the far right or left turn position, another vehicle hit a front wheel. No evidence of impact on a front wheel/tire/wheel cover? Do inspect the other tie rod end.)
  • ronald1ronald1 Posts: 11
    I can't remember any time where I hit a pothole or bumped a curve with my '99 GM that would explain the tie-rod end failure. It was this fact that there was no obvious incident to cause the tie-rod end failure that led me to have all four tie rod-ends replaced. (two on each side) $600 including the tow and a front end alignment.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    A 99 Merc with 4 tie rod ends? No such animal. If they charged you for 4, tell them you want your money back for 2, and the labor cost for replacing the phantom 2. (Are you sure you don't mean ball joints? There are 4 of them.)
  • The Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis have always beens some of my favourite cars. I know they haven't been redesigned completely since 1998, yet their design is timeless.

    I wish Ford would offer a Crown Victoria SVT, instead of that stupid Sport Trac Adrenalin. Sport sedans are more practical than sport trucks. Ford should drop a Mustang engine with 300 hp to give the Crown Victoria some attitude. It might even be able to steal Chrysler 300C customers.

    The Grand Marquis should incorporate a more modern dash, with features like a nav system, premium audio system, power seats, premium leater, real wood like walnut, ebony, birds eye maple, rosewood

    With regards to SVT, I hope the Mustang can revive the brand. The Sport Trac Adrenalin is stupid, a new F-150 Lightning would look much better. Ford should also apply the SVT treatment to vehicles like the Focus, Fusion, Five Hundred, Freestyle and the Expedition. If Jeep can offer 400+ hp in a Grand Cherokee, then it proves that Ford needs to respond with a supercharged Explorer or Expedition. Dodge is applying the SRT 8 treatment to almost all it's vehicles, so it's time Ford revived SVT.
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    Hold on and see what happens in 2006 and 2008. The new Charger police model requires Ford to upgrade the car, especially power, or they will lose a big chunk of the market.
  • dbc123dbc123 Posts: 105
    Contrary to what is posted in #2465 there ARE 4 tie rod ends, inner and outer on two rods. Obviously poster is not familiar with CV/GM front ends.
  • tbear503tbear503 Posts: 70
    First, I second the motion for the 300HP installation of the 4.6 Mustang in the Panthers.

    Second, what was the approximate cost to replace the tie rods? Did you have both sides replaced?

  • Ford would be wise to upgrade the drivetrain in the Panther. I would prefer if they replaced the current 4.6V8 (239hp/287lb-ft) with the 5.4V8 (300hp/365lb-ft) from the F150 and backed it up with a five speed automatic. Combine that with a freshening of the exterior and complete remodeling of the interior and Ford could easily squeeze several more years of service out of this ancient platform.
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Posts: 2,287
    One must remember that Ford MUST meet its Corporate Average Fuel Economy requirements or be hit with either a gas guzzler tax and/or penalties for each vehicle sold. One of the major reasons more power is available in trucks than large cars is the CAFE. With the current oil situation, I doubt this changes any time soon....
  • fx4fx4 Posts: 72
    It's been a while since this post, but I thought I would reply anyway due to first-hand experience.

    My 97 T/B with 4.6L V-8 that we bought as lease turn-in after 22,000 had the intake manifold problem. I started to pass another vehicle and suddenly cooling water and steam started going all over. I was a mile or so from dealer and limped quickly back to shop. Turned out to be a no cost Ford recall repair. There was a recall notice in the T/B glove compartment, so we assumed the lessee had had it taken care of repair--apparently not. Don't know what the water leak had to do with busted intake manifold?
  • melcohmelcoh Posts: 1
    If you have any additoonal info on this problem would appreciate it. I am trying to get Ford to pay for fixing the problem with my 97 Grandf Marquis.
  • mystiquemystique Posts: 24
    Does anybody know if Ford is leaning towards using the 3 valve 4.6 in 06' to go with the update, and does anybody have pictures or drawings of the 06' facelifted Vic. I am particularly interested in the LX Sport but if they throw the new V8's in them i will wait until they come out.
  • maytag87maytag87 Posts: 37
    Good morning folks,

    I picked up a 92 Grand Marquis from a buddy who just picked up a 2004 Crown Vic leftover. The 92 has 126K miles, runs pretty well. It has a problem with the column shifter, where it is very tough to get into park. You can shift it, but the gear selector needle isnt lining up with the expected gear. You can get it into drive by shifting the shift lever almost all the way down. Also when shifting back into park, it likes to only get as far as reverse. Shifting the shifter lever with exuberance will get it into Park and then you can set the parking brake if desired.

    My friend thinks that to fix it, one must dig into the steering column, remove the airbag steering wheel and fix a gear selector lever cable of sorts. Says he even had a shop previously fix it with 3 hours labor charged, a couple of years back. I am wondering if maybe it is the actual transmission cable that goes from the shifter linkage to the transmission that is actually the problem, and to fix it, I would not need to do anything in the steering column at all. I am more well versed in GM, specifically 68-88 RWD Oldsmobile Cutlass, and I have little Ford experience in general. I searched the archives on this forum but came up empty. Any suggestions? I suspect this is really a stretched trans cable, but my friend thinks otherwise.

    Other than that, the glove box cable is broken so I have to swap out the glovebox, or improvise a rev limiter for the glove box door so it doesnt fall down when it opens. The clear coat is flaking quite a bit, high speed on the wipers is non-functional, other speeds work, AC is toast & headliner is starting to sag on the front and rear edges. New alt, good diehard battery, 2 new tires, fluids changed on schedule. Custom dual exhaust is in nice shape.

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might want to also post this in our Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion while you are waiting for some feedback here. Let us know how it goes.
  • maytag87maytag87 Posts: 37
    Good afternoon folks,

    Here was the message that helped me fix the problem:
    jamesjones000 - I had the same problem in my '92 and with mom's '94 Grand Marquis. If you remove the covers under the steering column, you should find where the shift cable connects to the an arm in the linkage. On both of our cars, 2 torx screws in the arm connected to the cable were either loose or falling out completely. Tighten these (and check for any others that may be loose) and you should notice easier shifting instantly. You may need to adjust the cable where it connects to the transmission, but most likely this should do the trick.
    Well the two t-30 torx screws that are the on the column mount point were loose enough - just about ready to fall off. The bracket was even loose enough to be crooked rather than straight, not sitting flush on the column mount point as it should be. Tightened up those two screws, no others appeared loose, and outstanding results - shifts perfect now!

    Thanks a lot for that tip!!
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Great, glad to hear it!!

    Where did you find that message? I could link to it, but I can't find a poster by that name.
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