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Dodge/Plymouth Neon



  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    been gettin some good press.....what d'yall think?
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I still have images of the old 2.2 turbos from Chrysler. I am sure they are alot better though.

    The SR-T seems like a real butt-kicker, and with a low price to boot.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I had one of those go in a car I had about 5 years ago. It only cost like $40 to replace.
  • 71charger71charger MDPosts: 116
    since they were getting as much as 224hp out of the 2.2 ten years ago why aren't they squeezing more out of the 2.0 in the SRT? I guess they want to leave some room at the top for follow on model year(s). 2.2s were very durable engines if cared for. Most people beat on them. I know a guy with 230,000 miles on his Daytona with the original headgasket and turbo. Synthetic oil, regular changes, largest oil filter that will fit and let the turbo spin down before switching off the ignition. Another friend recently spent a small fortune replacing the turbo in his Saab (again). I asked him if he let it spin down everytime before switching the key off. No one had ever mentioned that to him. Not even his mechanic after replacing one the first time.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Was there anything in the owner's manual of these cars about the spinning down procedure? I have a turbo (Jetta 1.8T), and let it spin down even though the owner's manual says nothing about it. I have heard my engine cooling fan run as well when the car is turned off, so it may not be necessary. I wanna make the turbo last as long as possible though.

    Also, the 2.0 is a little smaller than the 2.2, so maybe there isn't a way to get more power without increasing the size of the motor. I remember the Shelby Z models had the 224hp 2.2 engines in them back in '92 or so.
  • 71charger71charger MDPosts: 116
    You know what? I don't know. I had an 87 Shelby Lancer and an 87 Daytona Pacifica and couldn't tell you if it said anything in the owner's manual about that or not. It's critical if you run conventional oil. It keeps the oil flowing through the bearings until the turbine spins down and helps to keep it from coking in there. I don't imagine it's as important if you're running synthetic but it's still good practice. Your cooling fan isn't doing squat for the turbo. Engines usually spike in temp shortly AFTER you shut them off. Cooling fans that run on are just dealing with this.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I always let the car run for 30-90 seconds after turning it off, just to be safe.
  • beanboybeanboy Posts: 442
    Sports a 2.4L motor. And 215HP is way underrated. If it comes from the factory as fast as the mags are getting them to run, more like 250HP. One of the mags got 220+HP at the wheels. Talking under 14 second 1/4 mile times with good traction, at 100+ mph. 350Z territory.

    I know the WRX is designed to keep coolant flowing after the car is turned off, Subaru techs specifically mention that no turbo cooldown is needed. Certainly doesn't hurt on it or any other turbo car.

  • 71charger71charger MDPosts: 116
    Wouldn't be the first time a Dodge came with an engine underrated on hp from the factory. 30 yrs or so ago 300hp seemed to be the magic number for kicking in insurance surcharges. Curious how many fast cars seemed to come with factory ratings around 290. 340 six barrel cars come to mind.
  • Sport Compact Car measured the SRT-4 to have 223 horsepower and 250 ft.-lb. torque AT THE WHEELS. C&D tested it as 0-60 in 5.6 seconds and 14.2 seconds in the quarter mile (they stated they got 14.1 in one run, but 14.2 was more consistant). This means that the SRT-4 in a tenth of a second behind the 350Z in the quarter mile, and it's about 10 grand less, what's better than that???
  • 71charger71charger MDPosts: 116

    Many knuckledraggers on there that think anything less than a V8 isn't worth mentioning. All I know is the slowest time I've seen listed for the SRT is faster than the fastest my big block 71 has ever run.

  • yositoyosito Posts: 55
    My son has a 2001 R/T since last june with just 7000 miles on it, and the car suddenly began having problems.
    You could drive the car and suddenly it was dead.
    Yes no energy at all, after a couple of minutes the energy was back and several more times.
    It visited the dealer SEVERAL times and the dealer changed the battery three times, I have to tell you that while performing several tests to the battery no faulty codes were observed, but since lately Chrysler is having trouble with batteries we decided to change it, but it wasn't the solution.
    Well chrysler ASKED US FOR MORE TIME to repair the vehicle, (The car was back at the dealer since july, so until last week they kept asking us FOR MORE TIME!!!).
    Well they finally decided to change the MAIN FUSE BOX with all the harness, they also replaced the starter and baterry harness plus the PCM, now the car is running with no problems, BUT I had to take it to ANOTHER DEALER, so they would place all the harnesses where they should be, put all the screws and clips, etc..etc... of which many were missing.
    I hope the car will NOW work fine, because my son drives it a lot on the highway, and when it dies there is no power steering or brakes, and no energy at all!!
    We know now this is not the first Neon with such a problem, but Chrysler service dept. Plus customer relations dept. at Chrysler STINK!!
  • I am glad I have found a place to vent.
    I own a 96 Plymouth Neon and it has about 80,000 miles on it. Bought it brand new and we have had nothing but problems. Thank goodness we got an extended warranty.
    We have had the head gasket replaced about 5 times, the A/C replaced, the radio replaced, the front suspension replaced and the EGR replace a handfull of times. Only to mention a few things.
  • 71charger71charger MDPosts: 116
    Wow. What a piece you seem to have. Having done my share of headgaskets it's my opinion if it's recurring the repair isn't being done correctly. I firmly believe that a replacement headgasket (the proper MLS style) when installed properly with the head resurfaced and the top of the block cleaned should last virtually forever.

    A/C from 94 to 96 or so was problematic in many cars as it was early in the learning curve in the shift from R12 for the manufacturers.

    EGR a number of times? Sounds to me as if there is a root cause somewhere else that just isn't getting found causing the EGR to fail.

    80000 miles and one front suspension isn't bad really. Unless it had to be replaced very early on. Define front suspension. Struts? Struts and ball joints? Struts, ball joints, and tie rod ends? The struts definitely should have worn out. Ball joints and tie rod ends are more dependent on how it gets used. A lot of pot holes and curb smacking will wear them out faster than long trips on a fairly smooth interstate.
  • I have a 1998 Neon Sport with manual trans, and 150 hp engine. No major repairs (head gasket) problems after 5 years and 54,000 miles. Really love this car but have to decide to keep or get new one since my lease end's in two months.

    You're right about manual transmission in the R/T and Sport editions in 97/98, since most of cars were built with the crappy auto trans. that didn't take advantage of the power.

    I only paid $12,000 in April 98 for my sport coupe. The 2003 edition of the same car doesn't have the coupe (only sedan), no DOHC, weighs 400 lbs. more, and cost's $18,000+

    The residual value on my lease is $ 4,800 but current trade-in value is about $ 3,500. If I turn the car in at end of lease, the lease company eat's the difference. Naturally, they are offering me special deals to buy the car. I love it so much that I may take their best offer.
  • The sport edition (98/99) of the Neon with DOHC engine, and 150 hp is a much better car with the manual transmission, since the auto trans doesn't take maximum advantage of the engine's power.

    If a buyer didn't care about performance, s(he) should have bought the standard edition which cost several hundred bucks less than the sport way back in 1998.

    I prefer manual's, it's a guy thing (love to play with sticks) :-)
  • I own a 1995 Dodge Neon Brilliant Blue Pearl Metallic in color. At the beginning of 2002 a small spot on the roof began to peel. Now I have several spots. After researching the problem I discovered that this is a known problem. I am in the process of taking Daimler Chrysler to small claims court for a new paint job. What I would like from readers of this town hall forum is an email from any readers that are experiencing paint problems. Please identify your name, make, model, year, color and a description of the peeling problem you are having. My email address is [email protected]

    Thanks for your help.
  • Dear Yosito- I have the same problem w/ my car! I have taken it to be fixed 3 mo. ago and It started all over again this week. Dealer is saying there are no fault codes, and has updated the computer in the car and the idle control. Has replacing the main fuse box fixed your problem? My warranty is running out so I have to act fast!
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Check out - they have some cases there about your problem. Good luck!
  • I have a strange situation with my 95 Dodge Neon Highline SOHC purchased new in December 94. It was cool being one of the Neon Pioneers! Anyway, when starting out cold, the atx shifts fairly well and timelty from 1 to 2, or maybe just a touch late. Then it basically refuse to shift from 2 to 3. I'll easily be doing 3250+ rpm at about 45mph without a hint of it wanting to shift. This happens the same while under light, moderate, or heavy acceleration. Don't despare, eventually it does shift, after about 30 seconds of high reving. When it does decide to start shifting, it seems to hang out in neutral for about 4-6 seconds before engaging. This really bothers me. Any suggestions of what I can do to further diagnose this problem or what potential repairs might be? I have had the atx fluid changed twice, once at about 62,000m, and about a month or two ago at 96,000m. Currently 97,200m.

    If you thought you had this figured out, let me add something else. After the car has been driven just a few minutes with everything heated up, all atx shifts occure promptly and quickly. You'd never know that there was any problem at all. This has me confused. My wife is afraid to drive the car for fear that the atx will die and leave her stranded (without a cell phone).

    Thanks in advance for you input from a new member to the board.

  • bruticusbruticus Posts: 229
    Howdy. Over this past weekend (terrible weather here in the northeast) my left-hand lowbeam quit working (I know it was working Friday night, but Sunday when I pulled into my parking spot at home I noticed it wasn't shining) Highbeam works though.

    What's the replacement procedure for this? Is it just a bulb or the entire unit? How do I go about making certain the new light, once installed, is aimed correctly?

    I should be able to get to the car-parts store this week, but not Monday as the whole state's likely to be shut down (16-22 inches of snow expected, so it'll be a DVD day!)


  • Hello!

    My aunt has a 97 neon and within the past two months the car has randomly not started. They'll tow it in, tinker with it, send it back and ultimatley it will do the same thing all over again.

    The last time it was in the shop they replaced the computer. Today the car didn't start again... until my aunt put the auto. tranny in neutral. Then it started.

    Now correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't this sound like the transmission safety switch? I recommended to her next time it won't start wiggle the shifter. If it still doesn't start try neutral again. If it does it must be the safety switch.

    Any other ideas on what it could be? Thanks.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    It's just the bulb. You should be able to get it from any auto parts store for a fairly reasonable price.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Anyone have problems with the auto tranny in their Neon? In the past week, I know 2 people whose transmissions have blown. One has a 1996 Neon, and the other a 2000 model, both the 3-speed auto.
  • See also my post #1052 for a full description of my problem.

    I just got the car back from the shop, and they inform me that the "Direct Clutch Lip Seal" was the culprit, and would cost about 900-1100 for him to rebuild. The vehicle currently runs ok, it just takes awhile to shift into third when cold. After driving a few miles, all additional shifts seem to be just fine.

    My question is this:
    The Edmunds Private Party value on this 95 Highline w/97K, dark green, under rough condition (bad tranny) is $1571. Same car under Average condition is $1805. Same car under Clean condition is $2151 (not attainable due to a few kisses and some rust on the hood).

    Can anybody tell me why I should fix this vehicle and keep driving it?

    I'm still considering my options, but as this is my wife's car and we have a 2yr old, I'm beginning to think about buying a 2 year old sedan (probably a size larger than the neon), then I'll drive the neon in its current condition until it either gives out completely, or until I can sell it for at least $600(1805 average condition - 1100 estimate tranny repairs - 100 other repairs = 605).

    Currently I drive a 93 Dodge Grand Voyager with 152K. So while I'm driving the neon for a few months or so, I can extend the life of the Voyager a bit more before it needs replaced too.
  • 71charger71charger MDPosts: 116
    Have you considered having a Jasper installed? Or, possibly, a Mopar remanufactured? You may do well to shop around and just have a reman installed.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Actually, the co-worker who blew her tranny (the one with the 96 w/74K) said this is her second tranny. The first was a rebuilt one, and it just blew.
  • I have a 1996 dodge neon 90,000mi I'm having a problem with the speedometer. When it's rainy or humid or when i hit a large bump my speedometer gets stuck...and stops working. My mechanic said there's not much that he can do about it? Any suggestions?

    Also when driving at speeds of 65mph on neon seems to fish tail. Is this normal the tires are fairly new and in good condition.

    third, when driving in recent snow it seems like my front right brake would lock up...I took it in but they couldn't find anything.

    um..I've been having problems with my neon stalling...for example driving down a road going 40-45mph steady pressure on the gas I try to pass someone on the left. The car goes forward...and then I feel like the tranny or something is slipping and bang! the car shuts off....has happened on the highway also. any suggestions?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Fishtailing is caused by alignment issue. You need to get 4 wheel alignment service.
    What you mean by "the car shuts off", power goes off or you feel that way? If power goes off literally, take it to qualified dealer asap. If you feel car is starving for power then get your fuel filter changed.
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    Just had a look at a neighbors neon with nothing coming out of altenator. No voltage and current clamp meter shows nil as well.

    Wire from bat. to alt. has good resistance. Car was dripping wet from melting slush so i quit until i could do some more research. Besides, too cold to be on a creeper today.

    Since the alternator looks like it was the first thing put into the car(buried pretty deep), I was wondering if it came out from the side after the pass. tire and plastic shield was removed. Anyone ever taken one out?

    Also, I called one after market shop for a price check and was told '95 was to new for a rebuilt. Yeh right.

    Does anyone know where the regulator is? My old '91 Die-nasty had its built into the ECM. Is this the case with the neon?

    Is there any ongoing problems with this cars alternator that has already been discussed? Or has any body else had a similar issue?

    Appreciate any ones input or expertise on this neon.


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