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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008



  • savethelandsavetheland Posts: 671
    Here you will find photos of last Sable rolled off assembly line in Atlanta:
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hello, everyone!

    I own a 2001 Taurus SES with 69,000 miles. I NEED tires! These Wal-Mart Douglas Touring tires are pathetic. Here are my requirements:

    - $400 budget
    - FANTASTIC handling (I frequently travel curvy roads)
    - Smooth ride (althought not life or death requirement)
    - Stability on highways

    I personally feel as if a TOURING tire is not an option; however, I have considered the following tires:

    - Firestone Affinity LH30
    - Bridgestone Potenza G009
    - Fuzion HRi
    - Kelly Navigator Platinum TE

    PLEASE! I need input on what tire I should buy. If any of you 2000-2005 Taurus owners have found a tire that DESTROYS the performance of the Continental Touring Contact or any other standard touring tire, I would appreciate it!

    - Alex
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hello, everyone!

    I also wanted to update the status of my 2001 Taurus SES with 69,000 miles. To date, here is all I have done to the car:

    - 64,000 - lower ball joint ($35 part, $40 install, $40 for 4-wheel alignment)
    - 66,000 - new front rotors ($70 for both including installation)
    - 68,000 - transmission flush w/filter (preventative maintenance, $140)

    The only thing I need to do to this car is a new oil pan gasket. I guess I am leaking oil (only a drop now and then); however I am going to replace this as I want to keep the maintenance up. It will run me $30 for the part and $75 to put it in.

    Coming from a 1998 Toyota Camry, I am very pleased with my Taurus. Sure, people might say that Ford is junk, but I say otherwise. I feel if you TAKE CARE OF YOUR VEHICLE, then it will take care of you. This car at 69,000 miles, honestly, runs better than the Camry did at that mileage. I use this vehicle for pizza delivery and also for commuting. I travel on rough and curvy roads most of the time, and this car handles it! The suspension is excellent and I can hear them gas struts a working! My Camry had some suspension issues: bad struts, scraped in the front on any turn from a grade, bottomed out on bumps, squeaked over speed bumps, not the best handler. Not to mention, the engine (2.2L) had a leaking exhaust manifold thus causing a strange sound at initial startup and a FLASHING check engine light if driven too hard. The pushrod 3.0L V6 in this car has excellent pull and, as I understand, goes forever and is inexpensive to maintain. Another noticeable strong point is the cars body strength. At age four, NO RUST and NO DINGS on this vehicle. The Camry had many small dings that I see frequently on Japanese cars. My Camry had one spot where it rusted, many small dings, many scratches, and the spoiler paint faded and lost its texture.

    Trust me, once a Toyota-only guy, I have now become a Ford guy. Although I do think Toyota produces a good car, I will choose a Ford first. The new 500 is NICE, NICE, NICE. Five-star side-impact without side airbags! Ford also makes a tough car made to handle rough, American terrain. My Taurus takes it like a [non-permissible content removed] and I feel I can depend on it, given I take care of it.

    So, to those debating about buying a Taurus or Sable, DO IT. Save money, spend less on repairs, and know that you bought a quality, domestic vehicle that will hold up to anything and keep you the most protected out of every vehicle on the road (look at the fantastic crash ratings at If you are wanting new, a Taurus or Sable can be easily had for $15-$16K. Or, step up to the new Ford 500 which I have seen for $19,795 in the papers.

    - Alex
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi Alex,

    Here are another couple of discussions you might want to check into while you are waiting for some input here:

    Tires, Tires, Tires and Ask Connor at the Tire Rack.

    Hope this is helpful - good luck.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I am going to be due for new tires to replace the OEM Continentals on my 2000 Taurus before next winter. I am seriously considering going with BF Goodrich Traction TA's (I believe they are the H speed rated version) as they seem to have consistently good reviews by Tire Rack and also by those who post their own reviews at Tire Rack. They are also reasonably priced. You might want to investigate these Traction TA's.

    The OE Continentals on my Taurus, aside from having poor wet traction, have actually done pretty well. Nice even wear and even decent snow traction, though it is getting worse now that they are nearing the end of their useful life. Now at 46K they are about used up, and I will definitely replace them this summer or fall.

    Glad to see you are having good luck with your Taurus, as am I.
  • savethelandsavetheland Posts: 671
    I agree with you on Ford vs. Toyota. On my Toyota I used to fix the fender by bare hands - metal is very thin and soft. My Taurus crashed brick wall once and bent parking pole other time ending with some extra scratches on the bumper. With Toyota it requires bumper and probably hood replacement (I actually did repair bumper once on Toyota). It is because Japanese design vehicles to save material wherever it is possible and American vehicle are more robust as a rule because American are not skimpy on materials.

    Yeah suspension is the weakness of all Toyotas, esp. if you drive on rough roads. Mitsubishi and Mazda are better on this aspect. Toyota is not robust. It is Japanese refined, but not American tough. I will not buy another Toyota solely because they handle bad and are fragile. I do not want to get scared every time I change lanes on freeway or visit body shop after every little fender-bender.

    Continentals on my Sable are pretty durable. I have 50K miles on it and they wear even and look good, may go another 50K. I did not pump tires at least for half a year. Actually I do not remember when I did it last time. But robustness has downside – they are not reliable on wet surfaces – ABS starts working and car keeps going – not good.
  • Greetings: I own a 1994 Sable wagon. Recently, the HEAT/AC blower motor

    will only work at the fastest speed. The slower fan speeds are dead. Any ideas ?


  • lmcglmcg Posts: 1
    I replaced the OEM Continentals on my 2000 Sable around 7 months ago with Dunlop SP Qualifiers from Sam's, around $70 each. I also went up a size to 225, which was acceptable in the tire sizing guide that Sam's uses. 1 month ago I was in to get the tires balanced and rotated (around 8K on the Dunlops and I had some shaking in the steering) and the tech recommended that the tires on the front be replaced as the alignment was out enough to have eaten the tires on the inside. I had no idea the alignment was out as there was no pulling or indication (take note - get regular alignments!). The tech recommended at that time that a tire with a harder compound, such as BF Goodrich, would do better on the Sable as he called it a "heavier car". I went ahead and got two new Dunlops on the rear; now I've already noticed a slight shimmy when gradually braking to a stop - don't know if it's the tires or the brakes. There is a definite shake when braking thru 50mph so I know the brakes are due.

    I can't say I would recommend the Dunlops for this car; they don't feel as solid and smooth as I had hoped. Wet traction is fine, and they aren't overly loud.

    I just put a set of the BF Goodrich Traction T/As on the wife's Honda Odyssey, which replaced a set of Goodyear Regatta 2s. The Regattas performed well, and were certainly quieter than the OEM Michelin Symmetry. We got around 30K out of the Regattas.
  • chrisptownchrisptown Posts: 11
  • mettechmettech Posts: 28
    I had the same problem with my '03. The dealership installed a drip tray in the dash. I was told that there is a TSB on this.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    I recommend the Bridgestone Turanza LS-T's. After 20k of the factory Affinity's, I switched to these. A great tire for the car. Very much improved handling of the car, without a compromise in ride quality. I now have about 35k on these tires and am still pleased with their performance. The car is 2001 SES.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    There is a resistor on the blower motor that goes bad and causes this condition. My 2001 did the same thing. The part was about $15.00 and was located under the dash behind the glove box. It is held in place with 2 screws on my 2001, probably very similar to this on yours. It takes maybe 10 minutes of your time to do the repair.
  • chrisptownchrisptown Posts: 11
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Posts: 190
    Just a courtesy note. Online, capital letters are considering SHOUTING and not particularly polite. I know you don't intend to shout. Besides, mixing case in a more English-teacher manner, is much easier to read, don't you agree? :)
  • leroy3leroy3 Posts: 1
    engine motors over, has fuel pressure at the fuel manifold byt no spark after replacing the engine.
  • I can't find anything under there that resembles a resistor. It must be in a

    different place on the older vehicles. I can't find it under the hood either. However,

    thanks for your reply. Can anybody else shed some light on this problem ?.....
  • I recently bought an 02 taurus SE and if I remember correctly the ash tray was well lit at night when I bought it but now only the back left corner is lit right below the bulb. I was wondering if there is a lens below the bulb that reflects the light to the whole ash tray or if there is anything else that reflects the light. I may have knocked something loose then threw it away when I removed and dumped the ashtray.

    I would very much appreciate if someone could check this out if you have an 00-05 taurus and let me know!!! Thanks!
  • thejorgethejorge Posts: 1
    i've got a 96 taurus with 136,000 miles on it. when i get done driving it and get out of the car there is an almost overpowering gasoline smell. i've put paper under the car and there is no leak. there also doesn't seem to be a leak as the gas gauge doesn't go down on it's own. the smell is only there after i've been driving it. when i come out in the morning and walk up to the car it doesn't have the gas smell. only once it's been driven. any ideas? thanks.
  • rlenz2711rlenz2711 Posts: 7
    Seams most cars have a resistor block for the heater motors.
    usually mounted under the dash near the motor.
    Check the wiring diagram for this vehicle at the local library.
    Its a common problem for the resistor to fail.
    In high speed the resistor is not used.
  • rlenz2711rlenz2711 Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 same problem.
    Dealer replaced shield under hood and replaced the blower motor and resistor assembly.
    They stated this was a very common problem and had repaired numerous vehicles.
    At the counter for the appointment they new exactly what wrong.
  • I must have missed it the first time I looked. I'll try again. Many thanks for the

  • zoltan2kzoltan2k Posts: 1
    Greetings, All:

    1998 Taurus SE, 57k miles in Tampa. Zero problems till now. Intermittently idles high...1,000-1,100 rpm in gear, 1,500-2,000 rpm out of gear...seems at times I can get it to normal by turning on A/C. Sometimes problem doesn't appear for days. Looking for down and dirty fix like cleaning contacts, checking vacuum hoses before I sink any $$ into diagnostic/repair. Thanks in advance for any assistance you might offer!
  • I went to my local Mercury dealer and asked him to show me the resistor in

    I finally located the faulty resistor in question. It looks more like a multi-pin
    connector than a resistor. That's why I missed it the first time.
    Many thanks to those who offered advice.

  • faseelfaseel Posts: 2
    Ok all, my 2003 Ford Taurus, is at 37,000 miles, and the ac has gone dead. At first I could work the nob, on and off a few times, then it would kick in, and work until I turned off the car. Now, no matter what, it won't come on. This happened over a 2 week period. Have any of you EVER heard of a 2 year old AC system going out on one of these things. I'm beginning to regret my purchase.... any ideas..?
    Thank you!
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Sounds like a simple switch or relay bad or your AC compressor clutch, if it was working only intermittently and now not at all. If it was a freon leak, it would slowly get less and less able to cool, but your problem sounds more electrical, which is probably a good thing. You need to get it in to either the dealer or I would suggest some shop that specializes in automobile AC systems. It may not be anything too expensive.
  • faseelfaseel Posts: 2
    Thanks for the heads up. Yea, I was thinking it couldn't be all that serious, I have an appointment at the dealer where I purchased it, I'll let you know what they find. Thanks again. I just didn't want to go in there going Umm.. dddduuuhhh.. it be broken..
  • 75winks75winks Posts: 5
    i haven't seen recent replies concerning the starting problem. around a week or two ago, my '98 sable didn't want to start?? no previous starting problems. i've checked almost every part related to the ignition system, think she's ok for the rest of evening, next day run to store- hour later won't start. kind of sounds like playing a record backwards or a movie sound fx of slo-mo. when it does start- fires right up. have you seen the movie 'Christine' by stephen king?? i've changed the battery cables (pretty well corroded, end-to-end); i've changed the crankshaft position sensor (check engine light related- possible relation in computer system- light went off -no other difference); checked all fuses, relays, diodes, and possible loose or corroded connection somewhere in ignition 'loop'; still not sure when i'll be walking or driving. battery good, altornater good. last piece i've yet to change is ignition itself- procrastination- just don't want to!! looking for feedback before i pull out my last two hairs.appriciate it.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Does the engine crank over when you have the problem? If it does not even turn over, I would look at the starter itself being the problem. Starters can sometimes act intermittent when they are going out. If it cranks but does not start, then it has to be something in your ignition system or your fuel system or the electronics that control them.

    Sounds like you are a do it yourselfer, but you just may have to take it in to an expert to diagnose this problem.
  • 75winks75winks Posts: 5
    i've typed the situation so many times, i'd felt like a broken record explaining what happened; may have left out a detail or two.
    when the problem happens, that's the 'slo-motion' sound i referred to. i may only get one or two revolutions (real slow), sit for a moment, turn key- nothing! no clicking, no low sounding hum, nothing. probably wiring somewhere loose, unseen without removing major components. when it doesn't give me any hassle, it turns over so smooth i almost forget that it may not start again once i get to where i'm going.
    the other day at work, i was heading out to go home, won't start. we sat there for only about two or three minutes, my girlfriend says, "try again"- fired right up?? it has a mind of it's own, i swear; never encountered or heard of this before without being able to diagnose it.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    My guess it is the starter, since it turns over slowly or just clicks sometimes. They sometimes fail intermittently like that, though you could have some other intermittent condition in your starter wiring system. If you are handy enough it is relatively easy to change starters, and you can buy rebuilt units with exchange of the old one for a fairly low price. You won't be out a lot if you change the starter and still have the problem. Otherwise you are going to have to take it in to an expert for diagnosis and repair.
This discussion has been closed.