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Mitsubishi Galant



  • elgatolocoelgatoloco Posts: 92
    I saw one on the line a few months ago that was the sunset pearlescence color, same as the Eclipse. Ayyyy caramba!
  • I found this car I'm thinking about buying. It's a 99 with 156k. Does anyone know how well they do with this kind of mileage? I test drove it and everything seems fine. Any comments or suggestions before I buy?
  • matsi13matsi13 Posts: 1
    i need a special tool to get the oil pump cover off of a 1995 galant s 2.4 single overhead cam. it is a type of socket. i've tried the dealerships in my area and they say they cant help. none of the tool trucks have it. it is a specific mitsubishi tool. if you know any info... please email me directly and let me know. :confuse:
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Actually, if someone can help you they will post the answer here instead of emailing you. That way the information will be available to the entire community, both now and in the future.

    I hope we can help.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,374
    Sorry for the late response, but my 99 Galant LS V6 has 115K miles and has been quite reliable. Not perfect; I've got some metal that's vibrating around 1600RPMs when the engine is cold (probably a bent heat shield) but otherwise everything in the car is in fine shape. No cracks in the leather, everything works from the AC to the stereo to the sunroof. A couple of door dings and a tiny amount of chipped paint in the hood from rocks are the only blemishes on the outside.

    I come here and read about the latest cars and while I want one, I can't justify taking on a payment when my Galant just works day in and out.

    Oh, I average about 24-25MPG in mostly city driving from the V6. Normal highway is 26-27, but I just did a pure highway tank at 29MPG.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • Yeah i just recently bought a 200 mitsubihi galant and i really want to do some work on this baby. I need one of you car geniuses to tell me where to start. Thanks
  • ris10ris10 Posts: 2
    My left front light went out and I took it to Advance Auto Parts, bought the light, opened the hood and saw the same problem. The clerk there came out with tools in hand and replaced the light for me. Using a pair of pliers, he removed the lighting housing by hand, then unscrewed the wiring that attaches to the lighting. After completion, all was okay until about a month later with the light went out again. This time I decided to do it myself, until I wiggled the wiring and the light came back on. I got a pair of pliers, tightened the nut holding all in place and all has been fine since. My answer to you is to take it to one of the national auto supply parts stores in your city, many will loan tools or actually assist you in replacing simple parts like this.
  • ris10ris10 Posts: 2
    I bought my 2002 Galant LS in September of last year from my nephew's wife, who had used it to travel 300 miles round trip once a week to drive to school on Monday and return home on Friday. It had 67,000 miles on it. Since then I average about 6000 miles per month using it as a business vehicle. Right now the odometer is on 124,210. This model, while designated the LS on the trunk, actually has the 2.4 ltr engine, and is loaded, sunroof, airbags, premium sound, etc. I've been very surprised at the durability of this car, with few exceptions. It averages about 28 miles per gallon on regular fuel, slightly better on premium, even in this hot Texas weather with the air conditioning running full time. PROBLEMS: Right headlight "burned out", had the local Advance auto store replace it for me (I couldn't figure it out, duh); after that the light stopped working after 1 month but I determined it was loose wiring, I jiggled and shoved the wiring in to the housing and no problems since. AIR CONDITIONING/HEATING. I get an occassional problem with the heating control: does not function. No problem here in summer, but back in Jan thru Mar I could not get the heat on. Datyimes it was hot, so I ran the AC, but mornings then were nippy, so I wanted heat. But turning from Cold to Hot did not work. Try as I might, rotating the knob back and foth, it did not work. Then by accident, I discovered a fix. I had pulled in to a convenience store to get coffee and when I came back out, I restarted the car, this time rotating the knob slowly and WALLAH! IT WORKED. Since then when I have this problem I do the following: pull over and stop the car, turn off the ignition and wait about 2 minutes, then restart the car. Then I rotate the heat knob back to cold and then slowly back to hot. You will actually hear a fast clicking noise as the gate inside the mechinism opens. No problem after that. ONE OTHER PROBLEM I HAVE...the check engine light stays on. Shortly after buying the car, I took it to my Ford Mitsubishi dealer and he said it was a tranmission warning light but he would not know for sure until he opened it up, meaning $$$$$ later. I took it over to AAMCO transmission for a second opinion and he told me the light read TORQUE converter. He put it on his computer, and said the converter was operating within acceptable limits and that the message had a history of coming on. He said unless I wanted to spend the money or unless I noticed a decernible problem, to ignore the light if it came back on. Well, it did, that afternoon. BUT....that's been 9 months ago. The light is on all the time, but the car runs great, performs very well and like I said, gets great gas milege. About the only other problem, the remote key fob broke in half, I didn't have another spare and I only have one key to the car. I have since found out that another key will cost me $140.00 and another remote entry unit $100.00. As for the remote entry, I can get an aftermarket system with two units for about the same money, but I have not yet bought another ignition key. Overall, I love the car for milege. But with my 6'4" frame, I still love my Dodge 1500 quad cab betteer. If only it got better than 12 miles per gallon........
  • suncolonysuncolony Posts: 2
    Folks, here's my dilemma. My car was running wonderfully. I have a 2002 Galant ES that I bought used in 2003 with under 35k miles. The only problem I've ever had with it is a sticky starter. I've always taken care to keep up on my maintenance obviously to prevent problems. So, yesterday I brought my car to a shop to get the timing belt changed. It was still the original belt and I had reached 82.5k miles on the car (in previous maintenance checks i was told i could probably go to 90k on the timing belt).
    I asked them to let me know what else needed to be replaced since I had not needed to replace anything on my car since buying except for my brakes. In addition to the wheel rotation, alignment, oil and air filter change, they suggested taking care of the water pump, the balance belt, upper and lower radiator hose and two serpentine belts. I suppose some of these belt changes go hand in hand with a timing belt change. I feel like i can trust these guys and they charge a fair price for work done. What do you think? They said putting back in the old pump may create problems because once it's taken out of the car to replace the belts it may not fit snuggly back in. As for hoses they just said they were getting old.
    Well I went ahead with it because I didn't want anything to happen to my car. But of course, after the repairs my car now has problems that I've never had before. My engine sounds a little deeper and louder than I'm used to. And now it shakes and trembles a little when I drive and a lot when I sit idle. In the past 30 hours I must have stalled out 7 or 8 times. I hear a squealing sound now when I press the gas (not every time though). I brought it back to the autoshop this morning and they said that they should have warned me but when this type of work is done they had to cut the power which reset the 'computer' (i assume they are refering to the OBD since all my warning lights come on when i stall). I this normal? They said it would take a while for the computer to relearn how to accelerate and sit idle which is why my car is stalling out and trembling. As for the squealing and the louder engine they didn't think there was anything wrong. If this is "normal" how long do i have until my car runs like it used to? :cry:
  • sky23213sky23213 Posts: 300
    Regarding the previous posts requesting info and opinion on the older Galants: mine is a 2001 ES, now with close to 107K. I consider it a good example of how a car is as good as the maintenance done. Car still runs and rides nice, and as far as repairs, I think for all that time and mileage I've spent on repairs no more than 1K, including around 500 on replacing inner tie-rods just recently. I'm pretty happy with the car, hope it will last another few years with the mileage we put on it. Will continue to maintain it well and would not be surprised if it takes me past 150K.
    Re: suncolony's post. Although the dealers charge more and try to push repairs the car does not really need, I tend to use them for major services like timing belt replacement, since their staff have more experience working on your type of car, so chances for a screw up are smaller. I think the shop that worked on your car messed up something, not necessarily with the timing belt. From what I've heard if the replacement is not done right the car would not run at all, but I'm not sure. For sure it should not stall, and I think they are trying to sneak out of correcting whatever they did. New belts will stretch and squeal after a few months, which is corrected by a simple adjustment under $80. (Somewhere earlier on this thread I think I shared that in detail). I replaced my timing belt at 60K, I think did other belts too along with that, but they were pretty cheap, so I'm not sure, but recently was told they look great, so I probably did. I did not replace the water pump at that time, but the common opinion is that it's not a bad idea to do it when you replace the belt since there's no extra labor to be charged (they're taking it out anyway). I plan to do that at 120K.
    Hope this helps. Let us know. I'd be happy to go into more details.
  • oskwioskwi Posts: 88
    I had a 1996 Galant and was able to put 185,000 miles on it before selling it to a neighbor who put well past 200,000 miles on it.

    Timing belt replacements are recommended at 60,000 miles for the Galant's interference engine. I did my first one at the dealership and a second one with an independent shop. After the first one, there was no difference in the car's sound/drive but the second one was much like you described...minus the stalling. The engine was noticeably rougher. I made a vow to always get the major engine work done by the dealership and currently get all my minor/major car repairs done at my Mazda dealership (01 Protege). I feel better doing this and you have more recourse should anything happen that was done by a certified dealership technician.

    I am currently in the market for a new/newer car and have decided against any new Mazdas. I am seriously considering another is definitely safer than my current car, yet is still efficient, full of warranty and I know what to expect with a Mitsubishi engine. Mitsubishis are rather misunderstood since their looks are always a little removed from the look of many Hondas/Toyotas...but I like being "different" and for me personally, the insurance will be cheaper on a Galant than on an Accord or Camry.
  • suncolonysuncolony Posts: 2
    after your second timing belt replacement with the independent shop, did you go to a dealership and were they able to fix the problem or did it 'self-correct' as my independent is hoping for?
  • oskwioskwi Posts: 88
    I actually had the belt and water pump replaced right before I moved from Oshkosh, Wisconsin (hence my name oskwi) to Buffalo, New I never had contact with the independent shop or dealership in Appleton, Wisconsin again. The car performed well on the highways, but was noticeably louder during stop and go traffic. When I got back to Buffalo, I sold the car to a neighbor and bought a new/used Mazda Protege. I did not want to take the Mitsubishi through another Buffalo winter at 185,000 miles. All I can tell you is that the car did not "self-correct" as you asked when I had it, but my neighbor had no problems with it in the almost three years they owned it and were able to drive over 200,000 miles.

    I have found over the years, that cars rarely "self-correct" after repair work. What you observe after a repair is most likely what you'll be forced to live with...this was the case with a Buick, a Chevy, a Mitsubishi and even the current Mazda I have.

    Hopefully, you can pursuade the independent mechanic to "fix" the problem...although I would be hesitant as he/she sounds unfamiliar with the nuances of a Japanese engine.

    Good luck.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,374
    The self-correction is actually the trans re-learning your driving habits so it can adjust it's shifting pattern to your driving style. Fuzzy logic was the term they used for it, IIRC. That shouldn't be related at all to a rougher running engine and under no circumstances should the engine be stalling.

    I had my dealer replace the timing belt and other belts at 60K. When I hit 120K in a couple of months I'll have them do the same and probably go ahead with the water pump as well.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • cenorbcenorb Posts: 1
    Hello all, my first post, hope it is in the right section.
    My 2001 Galant 4cyl ES w/88k has been great, very few problems, have maintained it according to the manual. Recently I've noticed a thump/squeak from rear left tire area when going over bumps. Any thoughts on most likely problem? Never been in an accident, shocks seem OK(no excessive bounce) pulled the tire off and yanked on SB and control arm nothing seemed loose or too worn. Bushings? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,374
    On most cars, the AC runs whenever a defrost mode is selective. This is because the AC acts as a dehumidifier and thus can speed the clearing of fog from the windows.

    Easy way to test: With the car parked & idling, turn on AC normally. You should note the compressor kicking in as it will induce some drag on the engine. Turn the AC off and wait a minute or two. Now turn on the defrost. You should note the same engine drag.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • lopesdopelopesdope Posts: 1
    I was wondering if anyone knew what was causing this problem. My 2002 Galant doesn't charge the battery while it runs. When I first turn it on it has almost full voltage, but as I leave it running, it will eventually go down and I'll loose all the electrical in my car, which shortly stalls the car. I just bought it at a used car lot, and I didn't want to waste hundreds of dollars on a shady mechanic. Does anyone know what is causing this?
  • metalmatmetalmat Posts: 1
    My GF drives a 2001 Mitsubishi Gallant and it is having some problems right now. I was wondering if any car experts could help me out on this one.

    1. Car has a hard time starting up, and sometimes will not and have to wait 5 minutes. I am thinking it is either the battery of the starter. The starter seems to barely turn and the car turns over slowly.

    2. Steering wheel shakes alot while driving, especially at high speeds.

    3. There is some sort of crazy electrical problem. The front left headlight always goes dim, even when replacing the light bulb. When she turns her car off and back on, the odometer always resets, and your have to always turn the cd player on and put the factory code in.

    4. The cigarette lighter and inside light does not work.

    5. Recently the cd player started to refuse working, when you turn it on it just says "off" on the display and turns itself back off.

    I will bring the battery to Autozone to get it checked out this afternoon, and will also check all the fuses. This car sucks
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,374
    Battery failing, genertor failing, loose belt are the top three things I'd look at. Fourth would be something constantly on & draining the battery (light, fan, etc.).
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,374
    1. Dunno, but could be related to 3.
    2. Check wheels/tires/alignment/warped brake rotors.
    3. Check ECM for error codes. Electrical problems are one of the worst things to hunt down.
    4. Check the fuse panel, or could be related to 3.
    5. Probably related to 3; it might not be getting adequate power.

    I'm hoping you only have 2 problems - the shaking & one electrical gremlin that's causing all of the rest.

    I think AutoZone will read your ECM for error codes for free or cheap; it doesn't hurt to ask or to discuss the issues with their shop manager.

    My 99 Galant LS V6 update:

    This morning I did the last oil change before 120K miles (116.7K). I've been thinking lately about trading it in, but I can't bring myself to do so. I will replace 2 tires in the next month, and spend a moderate price on the 120K service interval in 3 or so months, but otherwise everything on the car still works and I can't justify taking on a payment when there's no real reason to get rid of my Galant. So the plan for the moment is to keep the Galant for a while longer and hope in the mean time that the automakers start selling a midsized non-hybrid, non-diesel, non-premium gas sedan that can get 30+ city, 40+ highway mileage with 230+ HP. ;)
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • sky23213sky23213 Posts: 300
    I'd say re: metalmat vibration that bad I'd look for wheel out of balance/alignment. We don't know what mileage on the car, so I'd say not rotors, but u never know. My first set lasted about 55K (mainly highway, one resurface), before warping. Replaced with factory rotors; now 60K later hardly worn out, still same pads (about half left) - wow.
    I'm on third battery, thought at some time something is frying them. So far a little more than a year, performing great. I'd speculate regarding our fellow forum member metalmat that he just got bad luck with battery, or maybe simply bad terminal connection. Hope he gets it figured out and fixed.
    I guess we are in the same boat - don't wanna part with the Galant yet :) . Last payment in October, hope to keep it another two years without a note. Then - we'll see. My wife reaaally likes the ride and wants to replace it with another one, although she mainly drives the CR-V. I'm more inclined to go to an Accord or a Civic, but we'll see.
    Recently replaced inner tie-rods; also engine cover gasket - very small leak, but decided to do it, only $200.00. Planning to do timing belt AND water pump at 120K, tranny flush gets to be done too around that time/mileage. I have gone from 3K oil changes to 4-5K intervals, should be fine, especially with mainly highway commute.
    At the 100K mark total for repairs( excl. maintenance) was just under $600.00 - not bad :)
    Good luck and happy motoring!
  • harleyhharleyh Posts: 1
    We just acquired a 95 Mitsubishi Galant LS 4-door from family members and it has become quite a problem. The power door locks will not work and the battery is being drained. We have tested the fuses under the hood and disconnected the door locks, etc. Help - We cannot keep it running. Is there anyplace or anything else we can do. Thanks. HarleyH
  • Is it really necessary to use premium fuel ($$) in a V6 Galant as specified by Mitsubishi? Other comparable brands/models (e.g. Camry, Accord, etc.) all use regular.

    The Mitsubishi hotline was not helpful in answering my question.
  • usaysousayso Posts: 25
    Hi "j...."
    I drive an '04 Galant LS V6... Every other 1/2 tank is a premium fill-up. I feel no difference in performance and that's driving it up mountains. So fill with premium drive to half empty, fill with regular.. repeat. Mid grade doesn't cut it... I get 23 mpg driving half town half freeway... 26+ mpg freeway. 18 mpg stop n go....

    Ideas to conserve fuel use..
    Drive smoothly.. no racing... Make driving a game to see how far you can get without braking. From stop, tromp on the gas for grins getting to speed limit then immediately lift and coast as far as possible before slowly and smoothly getting on the gas again. Use your cruise at 4 mph over the limit. In the mountains switch to neutral and coast down hills. Check your tires for proper inflation. Turn the air off and ride with the windows down under 45 mph, air on above 45mph. It's a 104 today here in the west and I do all these things. The europeans go one further and have systems which shut the car off at every stop and it restarts the car when the gas pedal is applied. They claim it works great even in heat if it's only a few minutes.

    Happy Motoring!
  • Thanks for the info!! I'm still not sure why Mitsu is doing this considering the price of gas. I would like the V6 but may settle for the 4.
  • usaysousayso Posts: 25
    Hi "j..."

    If you like the grins get the V6... The 4 is thirstier in this car since it's a little on the heavy side... plus the 4 uses Mivec heads which seem to create this thirst as well. I had a 2000 Eclipse RS 4cyl. without Mivec and it got decent mpg... 26+ but have heard the Mivecs are much thirstier.

    Also the main reason to get this car is the V6.... It growls to 60 in 6.8 seconds (MotorTrend). The '07 Camry V6 now does it in 6.7 but try to buy one for less than $24,000.... However the Camry V6 does get great gas mileage... The Accord also has the same results as the Galant yet it too costs more...

    Galants can be bought 10+% cheaper. Have better warranty's.
    Resale is a condition of what you finally pay for one. If you buy well enough (low) you can beat the resale value of the Camry or the Accord.

    Happy Motoring!
  •'re a wealth of info. good points to consider. I guess i just ate giving $ to exxon, etc. and not being a good steward of the environment.

    I'm considering others with better mph as you suggest.

    thanks again for your interest and thoughts

  • guestguest Posts: 770
    I have an '06 Galant with an I4, and it is true that the MIVEC is thirsty, and the Galant is heavier than the Accord or Camry. I get about 20 mpg in the city, and 27 hwy. It's not slow, but nowhere near the pep of the V6. I've never been in a situation that it was just too slow to accelerate, though I would have liked to get the EPA of 23mpg city.

    I didn't realize the V6 Galant had almost as good mileage as the I4 (being that it is reported here to get 18 mpg stop and go, that's also it's EPA estimate), or I might have ponied up the dough for that. Still, I'm loving the car, and the more I drive it, the more I like it. Just added tint to the windows and it's nicer looking and helps with the sun, too.

    The dealership hosts Mitsubishi owners once a month, with a Q & A on maintenance, etc. During one I attended it came up (the service manager mentioned) that you should use premium with the V6. It was also mentioned not to use premium or mid-grade fuel with the I4, only regular. He said something about build up. Not a problem for me, since I was counting on using only regular.
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    My gf has a 98 Galant (4 cyl) and I would like to get a tranny flush on the car (automatic). Since she has misplaced the owner's manual, I'm not sure what type of tranny fluid it requires. Also, does 98 model use a filter or a screen on the transmission? Please help. Thank you very much.
  • chad567chad567 Posts: 1
    Did anybody ever find out what the problem was with this. My girlfriends car is having the exact same problem. It is a 2003 Galant, and the temperature control seems to get stuck. Last winter I drove through Canada and it got stuck on the cold setting, and I ended up driving about 200 miles with no heat. Sometimes if you pull over, shut the engine off and restart it, the control will fix itself, but you will hear a fast clicking sound as it adjusts. I read something about a heater door that might be getting stuck, has anybody heard of this?
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