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Audi A6



  • My issue is with the gas pedal. For lack of a better word, it's twitchy. If you're too light with pedal pressure, the car will hesitate a bit or "stutter".

    For myself I have resolved the problem through foot placement positioning. I noticed that if I keep foot pressure on the lower part of the gas pedal, using say, just the toes of my feet, I get the hesitation. If I re-position my foot, and lay most or all of my foot over roughly three fourths, or the full length of the pedal, then I get a very solid and spirited, full power response.

    There seems to be no happy medium with respect to pedal pressure and engine response.

    Other opinions/experiences?
  • What you are describing seems more like what some of us call "XXX-lag" where XXX is either DBW or TIP -- personally, I find that it is usually TIP lag, rather than Drive By Wire lag. I assume this happens when the transmission is in "D" -- it virtually vanishes if you always use "S" as your driving mode. Of course, in S mode the upshifts happen later and the downshifts earlier which can mean the upshift to "6" in "S" mode happens much later than you like.

    Cure for this is to tap the cruise control button on the end of the stalk, the car will immediately upshift to 6 at highway speeds rather than wait.

    DBW lag is certainly a possibility, but the new breed of engine management seems to be so much better than that of old, it is improbable that that is the issue.

    Don't you just wish they would offer us both the DSG and the manual transmission and fughetaboud the tip?
  • DBW lag is certainly a possibility, but the new breed of engine management seems to be so much better than that of old, it is improbable that that is the issue.

    I do think drive-by-wire throttle lag could indeed be the culprit. I had the same problem, only much worse, on my 2005 Lexus RX330 -- which I sold, btw! If you took your foot off the gas, paused a moment, then put it back on the gas the darn car would go into "pause" mode. Nada, no power. Nothing. Period. But I digress.

    Good point about shifting into Sport (S) mode for fast response. Yes, the problem occurs in Drive (D) mode. The car assumes a new identity and the neutering problem it experiences in D seem to vanish in a blur.

    On my A6 3.2, I mainly notice the problem when starting from a dead stop; I haven't really noticed it while at cruise speed.

    What it is it about "TIP" (Tiptronic transmission?) that is objectionable compared to older, conventional tranny-engine linkages? I honestly would care to hear more.

    Do you think that there is any material incremental cost to driving in S mode most of the time? Will it cause premature engine wear, or suck gas like a Hummer?
  • I'm sticking with my opinion about this being more tip than dbw -- but it is ONLY an opinion.

    I find my car does the same thing if in D if I have come to a "nearly" dead stop -- in D this transmission desperately wants to wait as long as possible to shift to first gear, so you may be sensing the take up from a less than optimal torque perspective. The reason that S mode seems to cure this (more than seems, in fact) is that S mode downshifts sooner, so the transmission and engine in combination yield higher RPM's closer to the engine's torque sweet spot (range.)

    The cost of driving in S most of the time, I would imagine is minimal or should be, but, my guess is that you might get into the throttle more often because the rush of acceleration will "tempt you." Now, if you drive in S mode deliberately economically, the transmission will upshift sooner -- but S mode seems to make certain that even these upshifts happen at a higher RPM.

    Logically, I would ASSUME that some slight degradation in MPG would accompany this. I say, "small price."

    I am at a point where I am in S mode the majority of the time I am behind the wheel -- but rarely do I use TIP mode to attempt to imitate a stick, I find it unsatisfying, and besides, in S mode, the tip is pretty good.

    Audis DSG clutchless manual (with auto mode) will or should resolve most of the problems that these modern smart automatics come with. Hopefully by 2008 DSG will be just another option box.

    I do not think there will be material premature engine wear nor gas sucking a la Hummer with the "S" mode practice.

    Your enjoyment of this car -- IMO -- will improve substantially, however.

    Finally, I do NOT believe that the tiptronic transmission stands alone with this "lag" issue. The nature of many "learning" (aka smart) manumatic transmissions is that they are generally programmed to be as smooth as possible and to upshift early and downshift late (early and late relative to when you might shift if you were driving a fully manual transmission version.) This programming contributes to the sense of "being disconnected."

    The steptronic transmission in the BMW family seems every bit as prone to its own interpretation of lag -- perhaps the 7spd manumatic in the Mercedes "enjoys" this too. I don't know about that one.

    In the "old days" the transmissions did NOT attempt to learn your style, did not attempt to "think" about fuel economy, etc.

    The fact that these transmissions continue to be employed in more and more cars (of all classes) is probably testimony to the "minor" issues that accompany their deployment and further testimony to the positives these transmissions represent. If the cry from the majority of customers was loud and long about the problems, it is safe to assume they would not continue to be adopted in earnest as they obviously are.

    Some of us, I imagine a minority, notice the imperfections -- but I have to admit, I can live with it quite nicely thank you by just using "S" mode and praying that DSG will be available next time (or better yet, full on manual -- dream on.)

    Having said all this, I still believe the 6spd tip in my 2005 A6 is the best automatic transmission I have ever had, but the previous 5spd tips were REALLY not good at all. Take my remarks in context, i.e. :shades:
  • I have to agree, I am using "S" mode more and more often. Especially when I drive alone as I like the more peppy drive. When with the wife or other passengers, I usually opt for the "D" for a smoother more stately drive...
  • I have to agree, I am using "S" mode more and more often. Especially when I drive alone as I like the more peppy drive.

    It's funny, the persona I seem to take on when I am driving in S mode. It's like all of a sudden I'm Steve McQueen in Bullitt. Vroom, vroom! All I need next are those hilly streets of San Francisco and a Black Dodge Charger to chase!

    I feel so naughty! Like the "old man" is gonna find out I've been "revving" the car. LOL!!!

    This A6 Sport mode talk reminds me of the days of burning rubber with '67 Pontiac GTOs, '70 Firebird Formula 400s, '68 Mustang GT Fastbacks, heck even the American Motors AMX Javelin. '70 Chevy Nova SS and Camaro SS. Those were the days when American muscle cars were THE cars to own if you were young and overloaded with testosterone.

    One buck ($1.00) would buy you 3 gallons of gas and get you some change back.
  • jeqqjeqq Posts: 221
    This A6 out of three that I've had, does not have - I repeat - does not have tip/dbw lag. Two nights ago, I tried everything to make my car hesitate but it just wouldn't. Why do some have it and others don't?

    In regard to the brake assist, I have had instances where it kicked in and yes it does happen at slow speed, but it never threw me out of my seat it just braked the car abruptly. Maybe statistically more accidents happen at slower speeds; e.g., parking lots and bumper - to - bumper traffic and Audi thought it would save someone's butt in those split second situations.
  • Is the ride noticeably quiter / softer on factory installed 17" vs option of 18" tires? Also, what would estimate of expected life difference for mostly highway driving in moderate (non-snow) climate.
  • Any one have Atlas Grey? How is it in sun, have only seen it on cloudy days or at night?
  • rtaudirtaudi Posts: 1
    Picked up my 4.2 Atlas Grey with Ebony interior last month. It looks sharp, great in bright light. I did not want another "silver" car, this color combo looks great as long as too many don't hit the street.
  • rjlaerorjlaero Posts: 659
    Atlas gray in the A6 and Quartz Gray in the A4/A8 are very cool colors and a welcome alternative if your sick of looking at silver cars. It adds a nice dynamic to the car and looks especially nice w/ the ebony interior.

    The Oyster gray has a blueish/purple hue to it in bright sunlight. I like it best w/ the platinum interior.

    Oyster gray w/ amaretto leather looks nice as well.
  • I have the Cambridge Green Pearl with Amaretto leather -- if you are looking to NOT see yourself, well. . .thus far I have not seen either too many Greens or too many Amarettos.

    If you have concerns about the Green, Audi has done a great job with the pearl effect (and assuming you like darker colors, this is about as dark as green can be.)

    I have seen the dark blue pearl with Amaretto and it, too, is a rare beauty (IMHO.)
  • legendmanlegendman Posts: 362
    Well, I will have to vote for my color combo, namely Oyster Grey Pearl with the Beige Interior. A stunning, elegant combination. Never fails to get ooohs and aaahs. "Sublime" was the one of the latest superlatives to fall from the lips of my passengers.

    The final arbiter though was none other than my mother -- an artist, art teacher, author and designer. She has always shown no interest in cars whatsoever, but last week, when she got in my car for the first time, her jaw dropped in amazement and admiration. She was blown away by the interior of this A6. She actually reached out, in awe, and touched the blonde wood on the dash. Coming from a person who has always yawned at cars, this was ineed high praise, and one for the family history books.

    Let's face it guys/gals, the A6 interior KILLS. And the blonde wood console and door/dash inserts really seal the deal, IMHO.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    This from Edmunds AWD comparison. :)


    I believe the later models have a darker dash and upper door though.

  • jeqqjeqq Posts: 221
    Mark, it does makes a big difference in handling. The car feels more balanced - much less understeer. Thanks for the tip.

    Happy New Year to you and all.
  • I am hoping too that an upgrade to UHP tires will add some more sticky-ness too.

    Glad it worked and you are welcome.

  • jeqqjeqq Posts: 221
    I'm happy with my "no" seasons:) They've been good to me so far. Where I live we've got lots of ice and twisting hills.
  • I mean UHP all/seasons like the PZero Nero M+S for instance.

    I am OK with the HP all seasons on my A6, certainly not unhappy enough to change them out at 12K miles, they are wearing fine and they are OK otherwise.

    UHP all seasons in defense of the factory choice probably give more than a nod to long term life which, as we all know, Americans prefer over almost any other characteristic.

    Wear may not be the number 1 trait I look for, but it is in the top 3.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    ... Wear may not be the number 1 trait I look for, but it is in the top 3.

    Same here. In fact "wear" is my number 3 criterium. First is performance, second is quiet, and third is wear. I don't mind paying for a better performing and/or more quiet tire with (relatively) average or below average tread life.
  • legendmanlegendman Posts: 362
    Thanks Paul for the helpful photo. Yup, that's my interior. It's very warm, light and inviting, IMO. The dash and top door panels are Taupe. You really can't tell well in this photo, but if you look closely, you can just barely see the color contrast.

    I think that this interior looks best in indirect sunlight. Bright sunlight gives it a yellow cast. It's particularly nice at sunset, with the glowing red interior lights making the console look a bit like an airplane cockpit.

    Another reason I preferred the beige to the platinum interior is the grey instrument cluster surround. In the beige interior above, you get a nice color contrast between the surround and the dash, whereas the grey on platinum seems to read as a big solid mass of grey. Of course, the dark wood is quite handsome on the platinum.

    Either way, a very unique, eye catching interior.
  • anthonypanthonyp Posts: 1,860
    She could have also been proud of her offspring for having such good taste. Tony
  • legendmanlegendman Posts: 362
    She could have also been proud of her offspring for having such good taste. -Tony

    Thanks Tony, I agree -- on both counts!
  • is a 2000 Audi A6 with 151500 miles on it a good first car?

    Is it an expensive car to repair?

    is there alot of life left in it after 100k miles?

    thank you,

  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,681
    is a 2000 Audi A6 with 151500 miles on it a good first car?
    did you add an extra 0 by accident 151,500 seems high
    Is it an expensive car to repair?
    yes, even if you do it yourself
    is there alot of life left in it after 100k miles?
    probably, but is there much after 151,500...who knows

    You didn’t mention the selling price. If you’re getting it for a tremendous bargain and are prepared (i.e. have the money sitting there ready) to spend on repairs then it may be a good buy.

    Is this vehicle is the 2.7T?
  • legendmanlegendman Posts: 362
    No car with 151,000 miles on it is a good first car, IMO. And certainly not an Audi, BMW or Mercedes. Good grief!

    You would be far better off looking for a gently used Toyota or Honda -- one owner -- with 40,000 to 60,000 miles on it.

    Any car that approaches or is at 100,000+ miles is likely to be incurring myriad numbers of expensive repair items, be they timing belts, water pumps, shock absorbers or struts, and maybe a radiator; not to mention "major service" work and more. Of course, new tires, brakes, battery, spark plugs and alignment would all be reasonable to expect as well. Then there is the electrical system and dash lights/buttons to consider as well as the air conditioning compressor and related parts. And, leys not forget emissions controls, catalytic coverters, and mufflers, et al.

    Add this all up and you're talking big bucks. And this assumes that the tranny and engine were well maintained and are trouble free. Is this a 'snow belt' car? Rust?

    If one is contemplating buying a German car, think 2-4 years old, with a extended warranty. Older than that and you are asking for trouble. These cars are somewhat exotic, and parts and maintenance are expensive. Audi parts in particular, often take days to weeks to order and receive.

    At 151,000 miles, you will likely spend more time rebuilding the car than driving it. That's pretty late in the car's life cycle -- to be buying someone else's very used car. :sick:

    Again, if you want a 2000 model year car, go Japanese. Sorry if that's not what you wanted to hear, but that's my advice, and, for what it's worth, I've owned foreign cars for over 35 years.
  • I drive the same car (2000 A6)with almost 90,000 miles, and yes, they are expensive to repair, but then, aren't they all?

    If the maintenance has been kept up, you should be able to get to 175,000 without a lot of extra work. For example, on my Audi, at the 100,000 mark, I'll need the waterpump/timing belt, tires, and atleast front brake pads.Should be able to get to 125,000 before more service needed.
  • If the maintenance hasn't been kept up, I would agree with post #6068 all the way.
  • legendmanlegendman Posts: 362
    I drive the same car (2000 A6)with almost 90,000 miles, and yes, they are expensive to repair, but then, aren't they all?

    A few points in reply for your consideration:

    It's a different story if you are the original owner, have done all the maintenance on a timely basis, and therefore know the history of the car. Buying a second hand car, and one with 151,000 miles on it -- 60,000 more miles than yours -- is another matter entirely, IMO.

    Yes, maintenance is expensive, but having owned both German and Japanese cars, as a general statement, maintenance on Honda or Toyota Corporation cars (including Acura and Lexus) is considerably less expensive. Also, these two brands tend to produce the most reliable, least repair prone cars to begin with, and annual Consumer Reports surveys consistently bear that out. (Parenthetically, I will say that the VW Passat is doing much better now in Consumer Reports, as to need for repairs. Still, I wouldn't buy one, or any car for that matter, at 151,000 miles)

    One final point. Japanese parts are readily available throughout the United States. Here in California, I have never waited more than half a day for a part. You can't say that about Audi, not without crossing your fingers behind your back.
  • I have new 2006 A6 3.2. The low windshield washer fluid indicator light did not work when I ran out of fluid. When I took it to the dealer the service manager has tried to convince me that I don't have this feature, despite the fact that its noted on page 31 of the manual. Has anyone had any experience of this kind or heard of this issue?
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,681
    I agree with everything you’ve said. My disclaimer was a “tremendous deal”. If you really have your heart set on an A6 and the only way you could get one was a high miles…then you’d have to be prepared with money for repairs. So…rebutting myself again…if a requirement of owning an Audi at 150K+ miles is having resources available for repairs you may as well buy a certified 2-3 year old vehicle as you suggest.

    When I had my 99 I remember hearing $10K for a tranny. Not sure if replacements are cheaper now (especially rebuilt ones), but hearing that scared me.

    Personally, for a first car I’d rather lease an A4 or A3 (DSG!) to see if I like the Audi experience and service.
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