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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions



  • auerbachauerbach Posts: 110
    So does that mean that the 6 cylinder in the upcoming Mazda6 will be Ford designed, while the 4 cylinder will be Mazda designed???
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    but both will be built in the US at ford engine plants.
  • dougseydougsey Posts: 20
    I'm getting the clunking almost everytime I apply the brakes. Has anyone else had this problem on the 2001? I see there's a TSB on the 2000 but I don't see it on the '01.
  • I just recently bought the 2001 MPV and have also noticed a slight clunk sometimes when releasing the brake pedal. For me, it is not too bothersome. I don't hear it all of the time, and it is not very loud. So far, that is the only real issue with my MPV. I sometimes wonder whether the speedometer is reading high or not because it seems I'm getting passed a lot more often on highways I frequently drive.
  • canielcaniel Posts: 28
    Hello folks. I haven't posted here in a long while...too much fun driving my 2000 lx around!
    I've got two interesting problems, I'm hoping my fellow MPV enthusiasts might shed some light upon. First, there is this intermittent humming sound (like a small electrical motor) coming from the engine compartment. Water pump about to go? ABS problem? Any ideas? I'll be taking it to the dealer soon - still under warranty at 29,000 absolutely flawless miles. Also, my wife was having such a good time driving the van recently, she forgot to stop at the light in time and slightly rear-ended a big SUV - fortunately no one hurt and no damage to the other vehicle. Our beloved MPV, however, sustained a nasty dent (didn't crack the paint thankfully) as it hit the hitch of the other vehicle. Estimate to repair is well over $1200!!! Ouch. With a $500 deductible, I'll live with it, but it is driving her crazy. Any ideas on where I could find a used hood? Any 2000/2001 MPV's been severely rear-ended out there? Any suggestions or clues on these two matters will be highly appreciated. Zoom! Zoom! I'm so envious of those who will be riding in the 3.0 -5 sp. but we'll have to wait until we're not "upside down" in our payment on our current buggy. Cheerio! -
  • Alex, thanks again for the vakcer TSB link on the MPV.
    It sure makes it easy to get something fixed at the dealer if you take a printed copy of the TSB with you.
    Would you know a link to obtain TSB for my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer?
    (I went to the Town Hall chevy board however couldn't find any info).
  • alexv1nalexv1n Posts: 248
    Sorry, no info on Trailblazer :-)

    You can try NHTSA web site:

    They already have summary for 16 TSBs. You can pay them to get full details on certain TSB that interest you but I never did it before, so I don't know how well it works (if at all).

    ALLDATA also has list of TSBs but their database is way underwhelming. They just added info for 2000 models and even though I paid $25 hoping to get full details on all TSBs for MPV, they had only 5 or so. And that's when there are a dozen out there. I had to resort to other sources to gather the remaining information.

    In other words, there's no single reliable source. Try looking everywhere. You could ask your dealership for info on specific TSBs. At least they can show it to you on paper...

  • <<In other words, there's no single reliable source....>> Alex, you're a humble guy! Your vakcer site is excellent. I really like what you've done with the TSB info.

    Dougsey: I have the clunking noise on my '01 LX as well, but it's not terribly annoying. Some noise is normal and to be expected. If mine doesn't get any worse, I'll probably leave it alone, unless anyone else on this board knows of any safety concerns relating to this problem (?). As you have noted, the TSB only lists the '00. Also, there's no "..with VIN #'s lower than xxxxx...." statement on this one, so it's hard to tell whether the dealer will perform the work or not. You'll probably just have to print it out and give it a try. Let us know if you do.

  • bob57bob57 Posts: 302
    The "humming" noise may be your A/C compressor kicking on. Mine hums but I only hear it idling and usually only if all other outside noise is gone - like when I'm in the garage.
    Also, check the electric fan kicking on & off.
  • (Another possibility)
    We have had few problems with our 2000 LX. But one recent problem - an intermittent 'humming' or 'buzzing' noise. This noise started around 33K miles. I cannot get too specific on sound because I don't drive the van too much. The dealer seemed to know right away. They diagnosed as "Idle Air Control Valve Sticking". They had to order part. One month later - this indeed did correct the problem. The dealer said it is a common problem and they are re-desiging the (IAC) valve. However I have never seen anyone else with this problem on the board here (other than perhaps yours).
  • crissmancrissman Posts: 145
    I've also noticed an almost resonant-like hum since the temps have gotten cold (20's to 30's). It is, or course, most noticable when going slow and seems to stop shortly after I do. Slight surging also seems to be there when this happens. This first started happening around 33-34 K. Thanks, cards 200, for the tip about the Idle Air Control Valve. It sure sounds like that may be my problem. Maybe it'll warm back up soon so I won't have to worry about it until next winter.
  • I've had my 2001 MPV LX for about two weeks now, and I've noticed two issues that I have not seen posted in any of the MPV forums. One is speedometer calibration. I think mine might be reading high. The other is the heater, Either the MPV has a weak heater or mine needs to be looked at. I need to set the temperature control halfway or better into the red area to feel an appreciable amount of heat. And even then, I need the fan runnning to really warm the car up quickly. This is really different than the Rodeo that I had. In the Rodeo, if I put the temperature control much past the center point (where the blue and red overlap equally) I had plenty of heat. In fact, I really didn't need to use the fan on the highway at all because the car speed was enough in itself to force sufficient air throught the vents. Is a somewhat weak heater a characteristic of the MPV? If it is, I can live with it because I can get heat - I just have to get used to turning the temperature control up more then I'm used to.

    Other than those two issues, so far, the MPV seems pretty flawless, and I'm getting a lot of positive comments from nearly everyone who sees or rides in it.

    BTW, in some previous posts, I've mentioned a brake clunk sound when releasing the brake pedal. I think the sound might be coming from the brake pedal itself rather than the brakes. It seems to be making that sound when the pedal hits the top of its travel.
  • Your description of your heater sounds pretty normal to me. Every car I've owned worked the way the MPV does. That Rodeo must have been one hot car .
    Don't worry about the heat in your van. Crank it all the way over at the beginning to get the car thoroughly heated. I guarantee that in about five minutes you'll be backing it off to avoid sweating. Unless, of course, you live in the unnatural state Javadoc inhabits. But he's got his polar bear rugs to keep his tootsies warm if it gets too far below absolute zero up there.

    Happy miles.

  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    Our heater kicks it out. Though, yes you do have to put the heat past half. Y'all probably have one person who's always hot (me) and another who's cold (my d.w.) so imho, the heater kicks out googly amounts of heat, even at those "unnatural" temperatures. But, this is the same thing I've noticed w/most of my other cars, in that you don't get heat until you're at about 2/3 or higher on the dial, and you do have to use the fan in my experience. My first VW Rabbit didn't need the fan, so that's one exception I guess. My '90 MPV didn't have a great heater, and it would give up the ghost heat-wise at about minus 20F, but we don't crank the heat even at thos temps in the '00 MPV.

  • canielcaniel Posts: 28
    Thanks everyone for the leads on the "humming" problem. I'll get the dealer to check the Idle Air Control Valve and see if that does the trick.

  • Mine seems to read high also. We live in a subdivision that has one road in/out; it's about a mile long. The posted limit is 35mph, but almost everyone goes 45-55+, which isn't good since there are bike/walking lanes along each side. The police department occasionally sets up one of those unmanned radar units which displays your current speed, and, of course, they follow up a few days later with speed traps. Anyway, the MPV always reads at least 3-4mph higher than what the sign displays, while my Honda reads right on the money.

  • alexv1nalexv1n Posts: 248
    What tires does yours have? The stock 16" and 15" wheels result in different outer tire diameter. 205/65-15 tires have about 25.5" outer diameter while 216/60-16 are 26.2" in diameter which is about 3% larger. Meaning that if the speedometer is calibrated for 15" wheel, then when riding on 16" ones your speedometer will read less than you are actually doing, however if it is set for 16" tires and you have 15", then your actual reading will be higher (3% at 50 mph is about 1.5 mph). Still not 3-4 mph but this could contribute to discrepancy.

    I guess we just need to do some real tests. The easist way would be to go on a highway with mile poles, and while going 60 mph you should reach the poles every minute. Have someone operate a stopwatch and drive for 10 miles at exactly 60 mph (set cruise to that speed) and then see the time differentce it took you to cover that 10 mile stretch [should be 600 seconds]). You can do the simple math to get your actual speed at which you were going.

    I guess next time I will go outside (of the city) I will do the test myself. But if someone does it earlier, please report back.
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    you going into the chat today?

  • I have 15" wheels, with 205/65 Mich X-Ones. The police didn't start the radar thing until after I replaced the OEM Yoko's, so I can't really say it was the tire change. Oh well, I have a little speed buffer I guess ((EG))!

  • Mine are the 15" wheels with the Dunlop tires. I'm glad someone besides me believes the speedometer reads high. I've been guessing that it is about 5 MPH high at about 60 MPH. So, 3 to 4 might be correct. But, if it really is about 3 or 4 MPH too high, then I think that the Rodeo I traded might have read slightly low because I'm convinced that the MPV reads more than 3 to 4 MPH higher than the Rodeo. I plan to do the mile marker test sometime, but haven't gotten around to it as yet. I did mention the speedometer issue to the salesman at the dealer where I bought the car. He told me they would need the car all day to test it and would have to send the car out to recalibrate it. So, I wouldn't be too happy about losing the car for probably more than a day.
  • I took her to the dealer on Tuesday for warranty repair, which they had seen once before on an '01. They replaced the front pads and retaining clips, part # SPO LCY8-33-29Z Pad Attachment, FRT.

    So far, the clunking is completely gone. I was in and out in an hour.
  • Maybe I'll take mine in too, at least I'll get new brake pads! Did you catch my update a while back on the Mich X-ones and vibration problems? Anyway, the tires are real smooth, but you know, the van still vibrates some and it's not the tires (I can tell - very perceptive posterior ). It feels like it comes through the steering column and through the accelerator. It really seems to occur when I have the AC running, which is almost all year-round down here. IMHO, I think it still has a lot to do with the under-powered engine and tranny mismatch. I'm not the only one who's ever noticed this - I've seen it on reviews, whether on this board or in print. And no, I'm not a hypo-"car"-driac. While I have many of the sames problems I see mentioned on this board and elsewhere, there's plenty of others that I thankfully don't have. The fuel smell comes to mind as a biggy. Oh, while I'm rambling on, I had to have my fuel door issue addressed again. They finally replaced the whole cable mechanism and release latch. The service tech said he's seen this numerous times. He claims that the cable gets warped or bent somehow. Now there's a problem seemingly indigenous to me as I've not seen any others on this board with that issue.


    REPORT "End Of Rambling"

    exit 0

  • OH MY GOD! It's no sooner than I click "Post" on my previous message that I get a call from my wife, who's at a gas station again on empty and the freaking fuel door won't open! I'm MAD! This is the fifth time. I've already called the FL Lemon Law folks, but they say I have no recourse since I purchased the van "used", even though it's a 2001. Don't get me wrong, I like the MPV fine, but it's really hard to drive without gas! I'm about ready to call the dealer and tell them to put me in different van, although I'll probably just be pissing in the wind. Anyone have any advice for fighting battles such as this?

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    send me an e-mail please.
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    I'll preface this by saying that we are exceptionally pleased with our MPV, now creeping past 23k miles this week. Only a few items with the van in 2.5yrs, and one that hasn't been resolved. Wife really really wants a 2002, so we'll see about that sooner than later.

    That said, my wife is complaining that the "1-2" buttons on the radio have been sticking down lately. I tried to get them to repeat their trick last night, but no-go. She maintains that there isn't anything spilled in them (hmmmmm), but I thought I'd ask if anyone has had this happening with them. I'll prolly have the dealership look at it on the next LOF visit if it keeps presenting.

    The only other issue we've had that I have not figured out is that when we go over bumps (or a bumpy snowy road) there is a dull thump/clunk that emminates from the rear of the van. I thought it was the spare, but that's amid-ships. Anyone have this happen, and have a solution?

    Like I said, loving the van. I even get to take it to the races this weekend, that I'm working at... I should see how it does on the 1-mile, 6-turn road course. heheheh.

  • alexv1nalexv1n Posts: 248
    You are not alone with the fuel door sticking. However I'm surprised that you have it on 2001 van. I guess Java had this as well, right? In most cases people cure it buy lubricating hinge, or something. Java, could you please refresh my mind what you did to yours?

    I remember reading some Mazda repair memo on that issue and they mentioned that it was a design issue which is addressed in vans produced after November 99 (if my memory doesn't play tricks on me :-). Since then they have supposedly changed the design and the problem no longer presents itself. Well, it was my impressions on the subject so far. However after your incident, I may reconsider my views :-) It could be either an isolated issue with your van or there is more to the problem than I'm aware of...
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    I just use WD-40 on it about once a year. I squirt some in the latch and moving parts back at the door. You do know that everything on this planet can be fixed with WD-40 and Duct tape, right? FWIW, I very rarely have the fuel door sticking, like once a year is fairly accurate.

    Others may have a different method tho. I have heard about a re-design/fix, etc. also Alex but I don't have specific details on it myself.

  • bob57bob57 Posts: 302
    Javadoc: We used to in joke in NASA that if it wasn't for duct tape we would not have landed on the moon...

    The WD40 works on the fuel door btw. The first time it stuck I pulled the latch up hard three times and it did pop open then. After the "javadoc fix" it hasn't happened again. Haven't found a use for the duct tape yet tho....
  • some metal bending to get the pin that holds the door shut to release just a tad bit sooner. But that was nearly two years ago, so I'm a bit fuzzy on the details.

  • alexv1nalexv1n Posts: 248
    Sorry, my bad about the date of modification of fuel door design. I was confused. :-) I just verified it and here are the details:

    Model: 2000 MPV
    Affected VINs: Y0100001 - Y0158235

    After actuating the fuel lid release lever inside the vehicle, the fuel lid does not open. Most likely to occur during cold conditions. This is caused by excessive hinge resistance and sticky rubber stoppers. A spring lever has been added and rubber stopper has been modified as of Sept. 1, 2000 mass-production.

    Part Information:
    LC62-42-459A Rubber stopper
    GA5R-42-451C Lift spring

    It still doesn't list 2001 models but I guess they stared production of '01 model before Sept 2000, so scarter7719's MPV must be produced before that date, even though it is technically 2001 model...

    For what it's worth, mine never stuck yet (2000 LX with 44,444 km - yes that's what I saw today on the odo. Cool number, huh?)

    I hope it helps.
This discussion has been closed.