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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions



  • its the bypass air control valve. we have replaced dozens at the dealer including the one on my very own 2000. I think it costs somewhere around $100 and add a 1/2 hour for labor. Dont pay any diagnostic fees just tell them you want the valve put in. (free diag from certified tech- I'll bill you........)
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    you might check withthe dealer and see if it's covered under the federal emission warranty.
  • thanks for your response. Is this repair do able for an average DIY or this better left for the experts? Sounds like a bolt on item!?!? Also, what are the normal symptoms? This comes and goes and sounds like a moan more than a whine. Seems like it happens when cold and making a 90 degree turn. What level of urgency is it? Will my wife be stranded somewhere and will it do damage if not repaired immediately. Maltb, what is the federal emission warranty? I have never heard of this? Thanks in advance for any input.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    just checked on that part...standard warranty coverage unless it's a California car. Looks like the DIY route might be the way to go. Perhaps Alex will chime in with a link to this issue on his site.
  • tbonertboner Posts: 402
    Check out the throttle hang fix at It also addresses "Moosing" which seems like what you might have.

    You can fix it with a $0.10 1/2" copper cap with a hole in it.

  • alexv1nalexv1n Posts: 248
    Perhaps Alex will chime in with a link to this issue on his site

    Well, I did but the message got deleted.

    Anyway, there is a repair notice MT000003553 from Mazda addressing "Moaning or humming noise from top of engine". Too bad I can't post the details. For some reason Edmunds people consider it "Unauthorized Commercial Activity". :-(
  • crissmancrissman Posts: 145
    I've been living with this problem for two winters now with no ill effects, except irritation and some embarrassment. There does seem to occasionally be a slight surge that accompanies the moan when coming to a stop, so be alert with the brakes. My noise seems to be intermittant and disappear when temps rise above about 45 F.
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    Wait a minute... Alex's post got deleted? Bad form! Doesn't commercial activity have to involve a monetary benefit for the violator? bahhh... >:-(

    FWIW, I had a very similar noise on my 2000 and Tboner's fix did fix the trick for me. I think it cost me less than $0.25 at the local Ace Hardware. I'd post a link... which would actually be helpful but don't want it deleted... :(

    Steve, I know you're just doing your job ;)
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Yeah, but your name isn't on that site as the registrant either :-) Maybe we need a Visa donation logo here like that other site does? Seems some people want to promote their competing forum on Town Hall without buying a nice ad like Tire Rack or Carfax or PeopleFirst do.

    It's all in the Member Agreement.

    Steve, Host
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    If Edmunds doesn't have the info, directing a user to a place that does shouldn't be against the M.A.

    Steve, I'm not a member over there, but I know Alex has put some serious time into providing MPV info and I really doubt he's benefiting from it other than a wealth of info he know carries from contributors.
  • tbonertboner Posts: 402
    A change in the member agreement that distiguishes between the message boards of commercial ventures and those of non-profit enthusiast groups.

    Or clarification of "promoting"

  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Suffice it to say it's promotion, and previous emails requesting that it not continue have been ignored. I find it a bit rude myself; rather like eating my Krispie Kremes in a Tim Hortons.

    But we're off-topic - please take any more comments to email. Thanks.

    Steve, Host
  • tbonertboner Posts: 402
    nevermind, I sent it in an e-mail

  • mean for my inquiry to turn this site into a brouhaha. I found the fix at Rotarykid, does Mazda (Ford) support this modification? Does it effect the warranty? I don't understand how this modification would eliminate the Moaning!! But 25 cents vs a Franklin is a big difference for a dad of 4. Thanks once again in advance for any input.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I always heard an occasional brew was good for some haha.

    Steve, Host
  • tbonertboner Posts: 402
    They don't even want you to open the hood ;)

    Just don't make the hole too small because you will trip the Check Wallet Light. I think mine is at about 5/16ths or so. Search around here a bit, I tripped the light on my MPV with too small a hole.

    With the throttle hang fix in both my MPV and Contour
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    Check Wallet Light? That's one I haven't heard! ROFLMBO (pg rated version...)!!

    I never notice a throttle hang... mine's always wide open, so no problem!. :)
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    In case you were wondering, I finally made it to the hill for a half dozen runs this afternoon, and all bones are intact :-)

    Steve, Host
  • tbonertboner Posts: 402
    Glad you made it ok. I just checked my e-mail at home and I'm glad I don't need to see the principal, LOL

  • thats a good one. I'll try not to use it around any of my customers. Daddio- if you want to replace the valve instead of performing the fix mentioned a few posts up, you definitely can do it yourself. Get the valve and the gasket and a 10mm socket and your done.
  • tomj5tomj5 Posts: 209
    I am thinking about buying a new MPV. I was surprised to hear that Ford builds the engine???? Does this mean that the MPV has the same horror stories about the engine as the Windstars???? Have second thoughts about buying a *%&^#@ Ford product!
    Is this true??????
  • big_guybig_guy Posts: 372
    If you go back and look at the threads in this topic (or do a seach on Duratec) you will find that the Duratec is a solid engine with low complaints. It is not related to the infamous Windstar engine that was know for blowing head gaskets.
  • Own a 2000 MPV LX with 62,000 miles. No issues prior to hearing what I thought was a failed ball joint or tie rod. Took the van into the dealership and was told that the noise I was hearing was something in the transmission. It sounds like the flutter when a tie rod fails. The sound is heard only after letting off the gas. If I'm accellerating or braking, I don't hear it. If I accellerate to a cruising speed and back off the gas pedal, I will begin to hear it. But if I then step on the brake, even slightly, it goes away. The dealership added to all that by saying that if they ran the van in a no load condition, the sound was not heard either. I'm a bit perplexed at the thought of it being the transmission, because I've not experienced any slippage or hesitation or any other signs of transmission failure. Has anyone else experienced anything similar. Disappointed at the thought of such a catastrophic failure to what seemed to be a nearly flawless vehicle up 'til this point.
  • I have not seen any transmission failures to date on the 2000 or newer mpv. I work on mazdas and I also own a 2000 mpv myself. Contact the dealership and see if they can get any assistance from the local service rep if in fact the trans is the problem. Maybe even get a second opinion from another dealer if its not too much trouble.
  • just bought an '03 Subaru Forester to replace our '89 Trooper and found something interesting in the owner's manual:

    "Gasoline for California-certified LEV

    Your vehicle was certified to California's low emission vehicle (LEV) standards as indicated on the underhood tune up label. It is designed to optimize engine and emission performance with gasoline that meets the clean burning low-sulfur California gasoline specifications. If you live in any other state than California, your vehicle will operate on gasoline meeting Federal specifications. Gasoline sold outside California is permitted to have higher sulfur levels, which may affect the performance of your vehicle's catalytic converter and may produce a sulfur exhaust odor or smell. SUBARU recommends that you try a different brand of unleaded gasoline having a lower sulfur to determine if the problem is fuel related before returning your vehicle to an authorize dealer for service."

    Perhaps this explains why our '02 MPV and others in California don't have the problem. If Subaru is pre-empting a problem with this statement, obviously the situation isn't just a Mazda concern.

  • auerbachauerbach Posts: 110
    We have a 2000 MPV, 28,000 miles.

    Recently my wife noticed a strong gas smell inside the cabin. The smell is also noticeable outside near the engine compartment. Bringing into the dealer tomorrow to have it looked at.

    Anyone have any ideas?

    This is definitely not the sulfur/rotten egg smell others have been experiencing.


  • I have only seen a fuel leak once on the 2000-up mpvs. The fuel-evap canister and related equipment is located under the van on the left side. basically under the drivers seat but on the outside of the vehicle. This canister is protected by a metal guard, but I had a customer that drove over something and damaged the unit causing fuel vapor to leak. the smell was noticeable when getting in and out of the van. They also had a check engine light code that revealed a fuel vapor leak. If you dont have a check engine light concern, pretty much any fuel leak will be post-injector. possibly a leaking intake gasket. the mpv uses a gasket similar to that on the early tribute which leaked often.
  • Been wanting to get a MPV for months , but stayed on the sideline on account of the sulfur smell. Saw once_for_all's message (#2584) about MPVs not having smell problem in California due to the state's emission control, i.e. low sulfur gas. If true, I am headed for the showroom. Appreciate if someone can verify this.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Maybe someone can find a better link but California uses a unique type of reformulated gasoline. (US EIA, 2001)

    Steve, Host
  • Need help. Just purchased a 2003 MPV. Love it. Except, have already taken into service because driver side automatic sliding door will not close. I have to close it manually. Service tech copied a page out of service book that stated both automatic door buttons should not be pressed at same time. Would "confuse" computer system. For one week I have not pressed at the same time. Door is still not closing. Door starts to close and then automatically opens again.
This discussion has been closed.