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Dodge Intrepid



  • rlp50rlp50 Posts: 13
    Hi all,
    '96 Intrepid - getting codes 12 & 42. Have checked harnesses and battery cables and all seems fine. When I turn the key to run I get no warning lights at all, however car will start and run. After a few miles all gauges and warning lights suddenly come on. Will the MFI relay cause this intermittent problem?
  • I have a 2000 intrepid 2.7L engine with 87,000 miles. It has been very reliable and a joy to drive. My oil pressure light has just started flickering and I had the oil sending unit replaced. The light is continueing to flicker. I too have heard the stories of the 2.7L engine being prone to failure and I am spooked over this. Anyone have any suggestions on how I can save my baby. :blush:
  • I had the same problem with my 98 trep, 2.7 motor. if you check with your Dodge parts department, there is a vent line which attaches to the sending unit electrical connector, which can be zip tied along a near by wire harness away from the exhaust manifold.I have replaced 2 senders in the last 6 months.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,040
    ...dear Intrepid. It was 9 years ago today...November 6, 1999, that I took delivery of my new 2000 Intrepid 2.7 base model. Roughly 142,500 miles, and still running fine. It's amazing though how fast the time goes doesn't seem like 9 years!

    achance01, my Trep had the flickering light problem, and oddly enough, it was right around 87,000 miles! Does yours only come on once the car is fully warmed up, and only at idle? Such as when you're sitting in traffic, or stopped at a traffic light? That's what mine did, and because it only did it at low rpm situations like that, I thought there was something serious wrong. However, there is a TSB out for the fix...basically what 93taurus described. When they fixed mine, it was free of charge, but I don't know how far back they'll honor a TSB.

    As for the 2.7, it can be prone to failure, but every mechanic I've ever talked to said that it's usually abuse or neglect that does it. Stuff like letting the oil get too low, or waiting too long to change it.
  • andre1969, where would I locate this TSB for the fix. My husband is seriously wanting to trade it. I care for his 85 yoa mother and our autistic son. He does not want me to be stranded anywhere or to be without a vehicle. But I love my car and do not want to get rid of it if possible. My mechanic can not find the problem and says the next step is to start tearing down the motor to see if anything is internal. Thanks for your assistance.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,040
    Back when I had my oil pressure light problem, an Edmund's member was able to find the TSB for me. I did some digging back, and found the info...

    NUMBER: 08-36-99
    GROUP: Electrical
    DATE: Oct. 15, 1999
    Engine Oil Pressure Light Flicker
    This bulletin involves adding a terminal/wire/vent to the oil pressure switch connector.
    1998 - 1999 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid
    With a hot engine the oil pressure light may be on or flicker on at idle.
    Verify engine oil pressure as described on page 9-21 of the 1999 Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M service manual (Publication No. 81-270-9140). If engine oil pressure is within specification perform the Repair Procedure.
    1 05017800AA Wire Terminal/Vent
    1. Raise vehicle on a suitable hoist.
    2. Remove engine oil pressure switch connector from switch.
    3. Remove sealing dart from the empty cavity at the rear of the connector.
    4. Pull terminal locking ring outward from front (switch) side of connector to gain access to terminal locking tabs.
    5. Install wire terminal/vent, p/n 05017800AA, in place of the removed sealing dart. Slide locking ring back into place.
    6. Attach the connector back on the oil pressure switch.
    7. Spot tape the wire/vent to follow the harness towards the top of the engine compartment.

    This TSB says it only affects 1998-99 models, but it was also issued in 1999, so needless to say, the problem wasn't fixed by 2000! Anyway, print the above info out, and give it to your mechanic, and that should be a good starting point. Also, just a word of warning. If there's anything serious wrong with your 2.7, you might be better off just getting rid of the car and finding something else. The 2.7 is a fine engine when it's working, but when it breaks, it can be horribly expensive to fix. I've heard that if a 2.7 engine blows, it's actually cheaper to have a 3.2/3.5 engine swapped in! And Intrepids don't have very good resale value, so don't sink a ton of money into the car unless you truly, truly love it.

    I like my 2000 Intrepid, but have to admit that, at 142,500 miles, if the engine fried or the transmission shredded, I'd drop it like a hot rock.
  • I what to thank everyone for their help and suggestions. But my husand and I decided to get rid of it because we would constantly be wondering would today be the day that something horrible goes wrong.
  • chebochebo Posts: 1
    Will an 2001 intrepid 3.2 engine fit in a 97 intrepid and will the computer connections work? I want to buy one, but don't know if it will fit.
  • Hello.
    What you are describing is the same thing I have been fighting with. With my problem after awhile, everything works. Have you found the problem?
    I took mine to a dealer because no one else would touch it. They said it could be one of two things. The instrument cluster or the transmission control modual. I am a mechanic, their troubleshooting consists of replace components at your expense. I tried the module and it did not work. I just cant seem to pay $325.00 for a new display. I think it's the body controll module since my cruse controll does not work either. Let me know what you think.
  • What is the MFI relay? I have this problem also but no one seems to have the answers.
  • My son has a 97 Intrepid that won't start, have spark, air & fuel but will not start.The first time this happened we replaced the fuel pump relay fuse, the fuel gauge said there was 1/4 tank but didn't sound like it had anything in the tank. Added 5 gals gas and still wouldn't start. Tech at auto store said to hit the bottom of the tank while trying to crank and it started right up. He said the fuel float may have gotten stuck and not read right or a piece of debris had clogged the filter and we dislodged it after adding fuel. It ran fine for a week, didn't show no signs of problems then it wouldn't start. I don't want to replace everything on it just to eliminate the problem like others are saying they have done. How can I tell for certian its the fuel pump, fuel pump regulator rather than the crankshaft or something else before going out to buy these parts...any suggestions?
  • rlp50rlp50 Posts: 13
    As it turns out the MFI relay (which was one of the codes I was getting) isn't the problem. (MFI = Multiport Fuel Injection). Still looking for the answer, however I have noticed that if I leave the ignition in the run position, without trying to start, all gauges, etc. will activate in about 30-60 seconds.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    The 2001 and 1997 are two different types of intrepids. The original LH models (Intrepid/Vision/Concorde) run ended with the 1997 models. The second generation started with the 1998s. The engines are completely different. I think changing the 3.2 into a 1997 would be a lot of trouble. You need to get an engine from one of the first generation models.
  • All the local part stores are quoting me 192.00 - 208.00 on 97 3.3L fuel pump. I found one on ebay for 59.95 plus 7.00 shipping with a 12,000 mile/12 month warranty. Why such a difference in price? Has anyone bought a fuel pump from ebay before?
  • Mine is a 99 but I had alot of problem with my guage cluster and they car would shut off for no reason. I ended up disconnecting the aftemarket alarm replacing the crank and cam sensors and replacing the PCM
  • relay's on my 99 are interchangeable. Just switch it with one of the others and see if the problem continues.
  • fuel pump failure is not common have you verified that its the problem I would check crank and cam sensors first
  • Ihave a 96 intrpid with 3.5 and auto trans.I also have a 97 with a 3.3 and auto trans. Will these motors interchange?
  • I am not sure but my instinct says no. Either 97 or 98 was a model change and the engines are not compatable
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,040
    Actually 1998 was the year that the 2nd-generation Intrepid came out. 1996 and 1997 are the same car. However, I still don't know how easy it would be to swap a 3.3 and a 3.5. I'm sure it can be done, depending on how talented you are. Or how much time, effort, and money you want to put into it!

    I've heard that the 3.5, while OHC, is actually based on the older 3.3/3.8 pushrod engine. So I guess it's possible that some things like the transmission bolt pattern, engine mounts, etc might be similar.
  • Here is my problem which is intermitent.

    Insert key into ingnition switch and turn to Run. Instrument panel does not ellimunate. Start engine. All gages on the panel are not functioning.
    Then all of a sudden evertything works. As I mentioned this before its intermitent.
    If I attemp to drive while tha panel is not working the tranjsmission will not shift out of 1st gear.

    I have had the transmission modual replaced per the dealer. Then they siad to replace the Circuit board on the instrument panel. I really think its something else since the panel circiuit board has no switches to turn on. I have the manual and I am now looking at the body control module. This little jem controls all the instrument panels functions. Oh I forgot to mention that the cruse control is also not work. This is also controlled by the BCM.

    Any one else having this problem and figuree it out?
  • Checked the pressure and got nothing so its the fuel pump. Ordered the fuel pump & got it in the mail last night..... according to the manual the fuel pump is located in the trunk under the spare tire..... I took the carpet out and theres rubber mat attached to the bottom of the trunk and the 4 bolts that are supposed to be there are not..... this is a 97 3.3L so where the heck did it go? Any help would be appreciated?
  • On my 95 you have to pull the carpeting from the back off the rear seat (in the trunk) There you will see an oval pan with 4 nuts. Remove that pan and there it is.
  • Thanks for responding....According to the Haynes book & other owners the access panel is located in the trunk under the spare tire.... are you saying its in the trunk at the back seat and not under the spare tire?
  • Thats correct. The fuel tank sits behind the spare tire. Towards the rear of the trunk. If you pull back the carpeting from the rear of the trunk which goes up the back seat, you will see the ovalplate with 4 nuts. remove the nuts, lift the plate and there you have the pump. Its is held on the tank by a clamp. Once to remove the two fuel lines and the vent line and the wire connector, loosen the clamp. be carful when lifting it out of the tank it will be full of fuel.
    Hope this helps.
  • Thanks I appreciate the help! I took the carpet and rolled it back to so I could get to the area under the spare tire. Didn't know it would be that far back... I was told it was a fairly easy fix...will see tomorrow since I ran out of day light! Again, thanks a bunch! Happy Thanksgiving!
  • Glad I could be of some help. I am currently trying to find a solution to an electrical problem. Thats why Im on this site. When I start the engine non of the gages or light work on the cluster. And if I drive the trans will not shift out of 1st gear. Then all of a sudden everything starts to work. I took it to the dealer who suggested I replace the Trans module since this supports the display. BS. I say. I am a mechanic of some sorts I know electricity and how to troubleshoot. Keep in mind the dealers stink when it comes to troubleshooting. Their idea of troubleshooting to to remove and replace components at your expence.
    I had trouble with my fuel gage and pump because it sat for a long time. I had to take th pump out of the tank and apply 12V dc to the pins and it started to work. Then I had to remove the little sensor, the ones with the copper looking arms and bend them just enough to make better contact. That fixed it. So I know what your going through. I actually have the factory manual I purchased when I oredered my car. If you need any other help just drop me a line. @ Oh one tip to check that the fuel pump is working is , when to turn the key to start position, you should hear the pump come on then turn off. Its very fast and you may want to have some one near the tank to listen.
  • Have you figured out the problem?
  • Thanks Paul!

    Yeah, I tried to hear the pump kick in and didn't hear anything. Got the new fuel pump in the car Thursday... runs great! My son is so thrilled Mom don't have to take him to & from school and work...LOL I must say Mom is thrilled that I'll go back to 1 tank of fuel a week vs 2...YAY!!!!! Thanks again! Hope you had a nice Thanksgiving! I saved 140.00 buying the fuel pump on ebay & I saved the sellers store to my favorites for future parts..... Did you get your car fixed yet?
  • Have you taken the dash out to inspect all the wires to make sure none of them have burned or worse....a rodent get in through the vent system? There was a member in the rx 8 club that had a mouse crawl in through the vent and take up residence in the dash and did a good bit of damage to the wiring. Just a thought.... I now keep my vents on recirculate to make sure outside vents are closed & no rodents crawl in there!
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