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Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier



  • I searched E-bay for 2002 avalon remote transmitter, and 2002 avalon ignition key. I bought a key with chip for $8, and a new remote (with same numbers on back as my original unit) for $59, and a second used one for $14. When I saw the programming instructions, I thought I had been had! Really crazy - however programmed both the key and the car for the new transmitter without a hitch! I had the new blank key with chip cut at HOME DEPOT for nothing. The car allows up to 4 programmed transmitters. Not sure about your 95 avalon - probably similar. Dealer wanted almost $180 for this work!!!!!!
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Depends. Too many variables. If you like the car and it serves your needs, then I think it is worth it. Although wihtout changing your timing belt, doing the struts at 150K, never changing the power steering fluid, and probably not changing the tranny fluid alot, you do not sound like the kind of person that likes car maintenance. Nothing personnel but if you need the car and do not want it in the shop and it is your only car, that might be a consideration. Nevertheless, 4K for 50K miles equates to 16K for 2000K miles. Cannot get a that size car for 16K so still worth it.

  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    It seems like most people here are crying about shocks on their Avalon,so do I.It is approaching 1 year (April 11)since I bought my 98 XLS for 8200 with 87k on it and I love it very much(I think 98/99 is the best looking Avalon).Everytime I run over a bump there is a rattling sound comming from the left rear of the car.I checked it out myself and found that it the bushing that is bad.Seeing that It is a hassle to change,I want to make one thing and change the entire shocks.Does anyone have any suggestions on shocks?I work on my car myself,I only go to the mechanic when the job is too big for me or in the winter time.I changed my trannt oil myself on 3/10,it was a breeze. :) :) Oh,I want shocks that are not too hard and I plan on keeping the car for a very looooong time.
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 591
    Forum member *abfisch* has abundant knowledge on this model Avalon as to suspension repairs and replacement parts. His posts here discuss many modified and improved parts. Likely he will help you out when he reads your post. Keep checking....
  • founda98founda98 Posts: 11
    Programming instructions for 1998 Toyota Avalon Remote with the following ID.

    FCC ID: HYQ 1512 Y
    CAN: 1551 102 578
    RSS - 210

    1. Open driver's door.

    2. Insert and remove key from ignition.

    3. Cycle power door locks Lock - UnLock 5 times.

    4. Close the door and open it again.

    5. Cycle door locks 5 times again.

    6. Insert the key and turn it to ON - OFF - ON - OFF and remove.

    You will hear the locks cycle.

    7. After that, press BOTH Lock and Unlock buttons of the remote together
    at the same time, then push the one button with the bump on it. (Lock)

    If the door locks cycle ONCE, you're done.

    If they cycle twice, it didn't take..... Just push the buttons (Step 7) again.

    If you wait too long between steps you'll have to start over again.


    If you are ADDING a second remote you must repeat Step 7 on the other remote right after the first remote is done so they both obtain the same code.
  • founda98founda98 Posts: 11
    Just purchased a 2003 XL and the low and high beams don't illuminate far enough down the road. Does anyone have the procedure to aim them or know where the aiming adjustment is located?

    Also - does anyone have experience installing 9005 (65 watt highbeam bulb) in lowbeam socket (9006)?

    Many thanks in advance....
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Thanks for your input.
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    I do not have the code to reactivate my radio and I have to disconect my battery in the near future.I would like to know if another Avalon code can work on my car.If it can work,can someone please provide me with the code and instructions on how to reprogramme the radio? 98 XLS.Love my baby :D :) :D :) :D
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 591
    Bad news: The codes are unique to a car.. the code from my car or from some other Avalon will not help you. Go to a local dealer with the car and use the vehicle serial number to research the code. It's available that way. Others may have a different idea..... hope this helps.

    If you are just replacing the battery.. hook up another one before disconnect and keep the system powered as you put in the replacement. The dealers do this when they replace batteries. You need to be careful, but it works.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    I apologize for not proofreading my last post. I sounded stupid.

    Now, Oh...yes, your Avalon probably could use at 87K new bushings and shocks. What I would do, and what I did do was on a 02 Avalon XL, as I felt the suspension was inadequate for my needs, not anyone elses. I am not a bells and whistles person, and that is why I bought the XL.

    The struts/shocks/dampers need replacement for the front and rears. My experience is with the Tokico HP brand, which is a twin-tube design low pressure gas shock. KYB GR2 I have heard very good reports about too, but I have the former on my Avalon. It is not too harsh and improves the car, IMO, very much, but not to a point that it does not feel like a luxury crusier. You will have to get a 4 wheel alignment too, so figure that into the price. You should also replace the top shock mounts and bump stops, which you can get from Toyota as long as you are taking things apart.

    If you want to go further into things, then a company called Energy Suspension, has PU(polyurethane graphite impregnated bushings) for the front and rear control arms and for the front and rear sway bars. These coupled with the shocks will transform your car into something close to a car that handles much better than it looks. It will put a smile on your face at the same time as the car will not lean or bow on hard braking anymore.

    Caveat: Changing the bushings has a couple of small drawbacks you should know about. First, the shocks make more of a difference and they are more expensive to replace than the bushings. Second, replacing the bushings with PU type bushings, specially made for your year and model, will transmit more harshness, not so much vibration through the chassis. You will fill it to some extent. I don't mind it as it is worth the trade off however minor but so do. The car comes with rubber bushings and you could just replace those with new ones too. Although, you will get more flex, and thus will not get as good as handling effects as with PU bushings. Thirdly, PU bushings after awhile tend to squeak a little. Using generous amounts of marine grease tends to allay this but about every two years, I wind up taking the brackets off and regreasing the sway bars bushings. Not hard to do, like chassis greasing should be done, but nevertheless more maintenance than a rubber bushing.

    The sway bar bushing you can put on yourself but the control arm bushing you will need a press to get out the old ones. Better let someone who does it on a daily basis do that unless you have the correct tools.

    hop[e this helps.

  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    ohhh. I have almost the same car as you. I replaced my low and high beams bulbs with PIAA's Super White bulbs. The contrast is better but I cannot really tell you they throw out more light. It is good enough for daily night driving at regular speed limits. The procedure for aiming them is on the net. It involves having the car level 25 feet away froma vertical wall. You have to do some measurements with the height of the lights and mark the wall.

    Do NOT put a high beam headlamp in a low beam socket. It is dangerous period and unlawful. If you want increased illumination, this is what to do for your model.

    Make sure your low beams and high beams are adjusted correctly at 25 feet from a wall. Try a replacement high quality bulb to see if that make a difference to you (PIAA makes such a bulb although there are other good manufacturers). If that is still not enough, decide if you want more low beam illumination or high beam. Go to the PIAA website, and look at the PIAA model number 1500XT. They make a driving beam and a FOG beam. Both are very thin and wide. They fit perfectly under the 00-04 Avalon bumper recessed between the fascia. I attached mine under the bumper with machine metal screws. They are relayed to the low and high beams respectively, for FOG and Driving. You have two dummy switch plates in the interior under the steering wheeel, where you can attach two generic Toyota swithches. Wait, you may have one cause the 03 Avalon I believe came with VSC. Anyway, it can be done cause I have two sets attached to the underside of my bumper recessed just back of the fascia, so if something hits it, the lights don't bust. Depending on your driving, will depend on your needs. I think you would want the driving lights more than the FOGs if you cannot see clearly at night.

    Note: There are aiming adjustments for these as well, specfically on the PIAA website. Follow them to the word. FOG lights and Driving lights need differenct aiming adjustments. Easy to do if you have the time and will.

    Good luck

  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Thank you for the advise Fin.I suspected that they were unique to each car,I discussed the same thing with my brother.The thought came to me about hooking up another batter to the vehicle as if I am jump starting it.I want to put remote start on the car and I will have to disconnect the battery because I do not want work with the power on.Just a safety precaution incase something goes south.
  • founda98founda98 Posts: 11
    I will try aiming the existing lights, then move to the PIAA or other brand high quality lowbeams if needed, but...

    Can you describe where the aim adjusting screws are? I can't seem to locate them.

    Thank you
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Thanks for the info,I think I will go with Tociko HP brand.I changed the sway bar bushing last September.My mechanic will do the struts for me.
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Thanks for the info.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Make sure you get new mounts too. They have a limited life span. 4 wheel alignent. Please let the forum know your impressions once you get all that work done. It should cost about $800 or so. I don't want to look like I said something that was not accurate. I am sure you will enjoy the big difference.

  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591

    There should be two of them on each lens but to tell you the truth, mine seem accurate so I never adjusted the ones on the car, only PIAA's once I put them on. I will have to look at the service manual this weekend and get you an answer. I know it is tight around there but there has to be a manual adjustment.

    Let me find out.

  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Sure,I will let the forun know the results.That figure that you quote is within the ballpark.I told my brother that it is going to cost around 1,000,he nearly fell off the floor.The car was well kept by the original owner(female)and I am doing the same.The work would be done in late April.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    It does seem like and is alot of money, but so is the whole car game. If the Avalon is in good shape, you will be very surprised to see the dramatic difference. Again, let us know your impressions.

  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    1.Make sure all windows are rolled up and all doors are shut.
    2.From outside the car LOCK the car door with the key.
    3.From outside the car UNLOCK the car door with the key.
    4.Enter vehicle and close the door.
    5.Start the car`s engine.
    6.Turn engine off and remove key.
    7.Place master key in the ignition lock.(DO NOT TURN).
    8.Press and release the gas pedal 5 times.
    9.Forcefully press and release the brake pedal 6 times.
    10.Remove key.
    11.Place new key in the ignition lock.(DO NOT TURN).
    12.Press and release the gas pedal 1 time.
    13.Wait (about 1 minute)for security light to stop blinking.
    14.Remove new key from the ignition lock.
    15.Press brake pedal 1 time to close programming cycle.
    16.Wait 15 seconds for programming cycle to end.
    17.Insert new key into ignition lock and start the car.

    I did everthing there and was unable to programme the key.
    Questions:# 2, should I lock all the doors? I locked all.
    # 3, Should I UNLOCK all the doors? I unlocked the driver`s side.
    # 4, Should I have locked the door?
    I did everything else as stated in the above mentioned directions.Can someone please tell me what I am doing wrong? I do have one master key.

  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Posts: 24
    Something weird happened at 8 PM.I started my car and looked at the guages and noticed that the fuel guage was showing full, when it should be showing a little more than a quarter tank.As the engine warmed up the fuel needle was dropping to where it should be.After driving for about two minutes,I noticed that the needle is where it should be.Has anyone ever experienced that?.I normally travel to upstate NY (Rhinebeck)and would hate to have car problems in either direction.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Fuel Gauge Guy:

    Yes, this happened to me once. I think the float got stuck that lets the sending unit now how much is in the tank. It never did it again. I think I was filling the tank very fast. I would not worry too much about it unless it does this on a continual basis. See what happens if you fill it a little less fast on the next couple of tankfuls.

  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591

    It was bugging me to no end where the headlamp adjustment screws on, so this weekend in the garage I found them, at least on my 02 and thought I would give you the coustesy to tell you where they are. I am not a car expert but have a baseline knowledge more than most.

    The 98 might be a little different so take this with some latitude. On VOL#2, or the service manual(repair)(NOT OWNERS!!) Section BE-23(Body Electrical) it clearly outlines in a posterior and lateral view the headlights. There is one screw for vertical adjustment between the low and high beam and one screw for horizontal adjustment lower between the low beam and the incoorpated turn signal. I cross referenced the page to read see Haynes Manual p12-14, so it must be in there too. There is also a thorough explanation on the following page on how to. They aim from 9.84 ft away. Note you always aim the low beams, not the high beams in this case.

    If you are opening the hood of the car, it is almost impossible to see the two screws since the lip of the frame obscures the back of the light. I hand to bend all the way around and put a light there and feel it partly with my hand. If you go on the side of the fender, you line of sight is better so you can get a better ideal of where they are on the back plastic part of the headlight assembly.

    If you do not have any service manuals for the vehicle, go to the service department near you and ask them to print out on the computer an exploded view of the part to appreciate it better. They are there. They have to be. They do make mention ( to my surprise) that it has to be on a level surface, tire need to be inflated correctly, and the driver in the driver's seat with the TANK FULL. Get a good friend or son or daughter to help you out. No one will do it as good as you.

    Hope this helps.

  • founda98founda98 Posts: 11
    abfisch - thank you so much for providng this info. I was able to locate the one between the hi & low beams and since this is the one I need to adjust, I will now be able to do so. By the wayh, I used to have the 98 XLS, but traded recently for the 03 XL. Thank you, founda98 (03).
  • rob774rob774 Posts: 4
    Okay, i just recently purchased a 01 Avalon XLS and it didn't have a keyless entry remote or owners manual. How much am i going to have to pay for another remote and how do i set the memory seats. Thanks.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Not a problem. I was curious myself. The other screw on my 02 has a plastic cap, clear, on it, that you have to remove. Probably so the head of the screw does not get too rusty, but that one is nearer the fender. Hope it works out for you. Remember to fill the tank with gas before you aim the lights. If that does not suffice, then we can go from there. The auxillary lighting the PIAA 1500's provide and a good supplement to nasty weather or very dark conditions but take a little fussing.

  • day9day9 Posts: 57
    May I suggest ebay?
  • rob774rob774 Posts: 4
    Actually, i was able to find a remote on Ebay. thanks, now i gotta find a manual.
  • kpraveenkpraveen Posts: 22
    I love my 95 Avalon XL, it is a used car and has come with AM/FM Radio with Cassette Player.
    Guys can you kindly let me know where can i find used CD player if i want to upgrade my radio cassette player with CD player. I checked with Dealers they said it cost me 300 just for cd player and labor charges are extra.
    Please guide me where can i buy CD player and how can i install it on my own.

    Thank you very much in Advance.
  • day9day9 Posts: 57
    I recently bought a used 2000 xls. I like it alot but have some steering problem.
    1. At highway speed, it pulls slightly to the left.
    2. At lower speed, the steering wobbles at a direction close to straight ahead (or maybe the neutral position). It is not really violent, more like a low frequency wobble. It will disappear if i steer slightly to the left or right. Could this be the so-called torque steer or something else?
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