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Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier



  • rzep3rzep3 Posts: 7
    I have 2001 Avalon and I decline 30K mile service at every oil change. I am not close to 60K yet. Most of the X miles services are pure profits to dealership as all they do is "check this" and "check that". At least in my area.

    The trans fluid change at my dealer is $59 or $69. Whether you should change it or not depenends on the climate, driving conditions and finally and most important whether you tow.

    Not sure about spark plugs but I watch my mpg numbers and once they would drop substantially I would start worrying. Also, if you spark plug(s) start misfiring, likely you get "engine warning" light. I am not planning on touching wires/sparks until 100K otherwise.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591

    Please don't be confused. I suppose a mini/maxi service for the autotranny is analogous to just changing the fluid versus flushing/filter change the system. Toyota in my owners/ and service manual does NOT have any mention of tranny fluid changes. Imagine that. For kicks, I looked in my wife's 2003 Honda Civic manual, and it does. And this is a guide line that seems legitimate. First fluid changing at 60K, then every 30K thereafter for A/T, severe conditions.

    Spark plugs are iridium tip and need to be changed every 100K. I am pretty sure that is in the service manual, not the owners, at least the 2002.

    Brake pedal still was spongy after fluid change. Found out that rear pads had "frozen-rusted" and wear not moving to the inside of the disc surface from all the bad weather here. Bummer but glad I found out. Replaced everything front and rear since I will be going long distances and towing a utility trailer. Then will change tranny AND power steering fluid (Avy uses same fluid Dexron III) for BOTH!! This vehcile nears 50K now.

    Put strut supports reengineered on and no more squeaking. Energy suspension PU(Polurethane instead of rubber)Front Lower CAB on without problems and no squeaks. Vehicle more solid especially at highway speeds and less flex. More vibration/less shock attenuation on rough roads. Need to keep the tires strictly at prescribed PSI 31 for the XL or ride is too rigid for me. Better on highway, and a little rough on bad roads.. I mostly drive interstate and rural highway.

    Hope this helps you all.

    Gerry100: See if the strut number for your year is the same as for the model year 2000-2001. If it is, than the TokicoHP will fit your car since Toyota did not change but rather engineered the strut supports. If you are still uncomfortable, KYB makes a very good strut as well. Tokico should update their website more, and if not accurate, the business deserves to go to someone else. Both brands are worlds better than the OEM Toyota, which is really made by Monroe, from sources I tried to find out.

    Good luck to everyone.

    "Feed the forum"

  • hamcarmanhamcarman Posts: 6
    Am I the only one that gets far less MPG than what Toyota advertises for the AVY which is 21 city and 29 highway? I have a 2003xls with 6k miles. My in town average is 17.5 to 18.5 with 87 octane. On the road I get 26 to 28 MPG. I am not a speed demon and I am careful not to gun the car when I take off from a stop light. I asked the dealer to check for any problems that would cause this when I took it in for the 5k service and of course I was told everything was just perfect. I really enjoy this car in every other aspect but I would be over joyed it the mpg was a little closer to what is advertised. Any thoughts would be helpful.

  • footiefootie Posts: 636
    Sounds about right to us. We have 2000 XLS with 40K on it. Gets between 16 - 19 around town depending on trips taken. My wife drives the car and has short commute and lots of less than 5 mile around town trips.

    I take the Avalon on a road trips a couple of times per year to Delaware. 335 miles, one stop, door to door average speed around 65, best mileage 29.2.

    The EPA test numbers are pretty flakey as some Prius drivers have found out.
  • boordboord Posts: 27
    Quite a while back I asked this forum the same question about my 2000 XLS. My mpg was roughly the same as yours. However, I live in Southern Cal where (a) you have to travel at 75-80mph to survive on the freeways and (b) more importantly, Toyota had to tune the engine to meet California emission standards thereby lowering mpg performance. Does your state have tough emission standards?
  • fndlyfmrflyrfndlyfmrflyr Posts: 668
    Also in SoCal and agree 75-80 just keeps up with most traffic. My Avalon is the older version, a 96, and when we used it on trips it would better the EPA 29 mpg. Best was 31 or so and worst was 29 (usually got about 30 mpg). It didn't seem to matter if speeds were higher than usual, nor did it change much if speeds were closer to 70.

    Maybe the slightly lower mpg of the current body style is due to more car (a little more weight - 200 to 300 pounds). I know adding 300 pounds of people and luggage in my MDX reduces trip mpg by about 5%.
  • gerry100gerry100 Posts: 100
    Abfisch- thanks for the feedback on the Monroes.

    I've seen the KYBs on the net, but suspected that they were OEM parts. If the KYB are really an upgrade and hold up, they'd be a good replacement.
  • umpireumpire Posts: 12

    Do you know if the Certified Wrap you described is a Toyota nationwide promotion? If my dealer offered that, I would take it in a heartbeat!
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 591
    Several times I have mentioned that the '99XL we had could hit 30 mpg, maybe a little more, with 2 people and a full trunk traveling along the Florida interstates. Many others have posted similar numbers. My '03XL can do 28.2 mpg at best and it took 25k miles to break in and reach that.

    The '03 everyday average is about 21 mpg but without the big city traffic. Any comparison to a daily stop-n-go driving style is not meaningful. About 18 is easy to understand if you sit for long periods.

    The '03 is still a much better product than the '99, all things considered. Which brings us to the '05/06 rumors of 270 hp and a 5 speed. Still 28 mpg highway? Probably. But in the city...hmmmmm. It will be interesting to see.

    Enjoy your Avy, all.
  • mcclearyflmcclearyfl Posts: 149
    Sorry, Umpire, I haven't sat down with my Toyota dealer yet, so I don't know if this $730 deal is available nation-wide. I believe this Toyota-sponsored offer is good at least through the end of June. My car is exactly one year old -- the offer may not be as good for older cars?

    For personal budget reasons I may not have further info until right at the end of the month!
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    I have an 03 Avalon and had no ground clearance problem until I installed a Class II hitch that goes down and under the tail pipe. It drags. I think it is a Camry hitch though. The correct hitch goes over the pipe and should cause no problem. When the car is on a hoist for an oil change or at the dealer, it should be obvious what is bottoming.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    You write some good stuff, Nomad. I just signed up and was looking for wheel/tire/suspension information for my wifes 03 Avalon. I'll post history and upgrades later in a new post.

    I have a black Lexus LS400. The paint would not shine when I bought it used. I started to work on it with a high speed buffer wih polishing compound followed with a 10" orbital polisher - the $20 type. I first used Chamberlain polishing compound for my polisher and followed with different polishes. I like to experiment and I find that a good result is just as much technique as it is product. Yes, you can pay a fortune for some products, but I haven't felt the need. More satisfying to go he budget route I guess. Only small improvements a first, but each time I polished it, it got better and better. I can't tell you the brand, but my neighbor who owns a motorcycle shop gae me a pink semi-liquid polish that really finished it off. The key though, was to use just a bit of polish on a nylon cover, apply, and lightly buff a small area until it burnishes dry. This is what produces the really good shine. The end result is that the finish looks like glass. I can re-do the entire car in about 15 minutes. The key is to not let it deteriorate first.

    I just finished an older John Deere 111 lawn tractor that I painted with a spray can. I wasn't happy with the way the paint layered on, so I color sanded it with 1500 grit wet or dry paper, with water until the paint was dull and smooth, then polished it out the same way. The end result is absolutely stunning.

    I have never used a clay bar. Gotta try it. are there different types of clay? Which do you use? Any special technique?
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591

    I have an 02 Avalon, and also have a hitch, I installed myself made by "Draw Tite". It is specifically made for the Avalon and the install was straight forward. The hitch cross member, actually hides behind or in front of the bottom fascia so it only reveals the female receptacle out the back. I hit in or rather scrap it once in awhile when the car is very loaded and/or I trail my utility trailer. But...before installing the TokicoHP struts, it bottom out much worse. There is no other part of this Class II hitch that drags. For those who choose to put this on, if you buy it yourself, rough up the surface and then spray it with heavy duty UNDERCOATING. It will prevent it from rusting for years. Take that for what it is worth.

    I am not absolutely sure, but sometimes gas mileage depends on many factors, one of them not mentioned above is the gas, with some parts of the country or stations putting in additives that can affect the mileage up to 5MPG. So if any of you are getting terrible mileage and all other factors are excluded, you might want to entertain this and try switching brands of gas.


    My mechanic and friend both noticed my OEM Continentals finally starting to look shabby and they are starting to squeal excessively around corners over 45 MPH. So...I did a little research tonight and found good reviews for the following tires, specfically the Bridgestone Potenza 950 ($90), the NEW BF Goodrich Traction T/A which I got a price for the H rated of $62, and the Falken Ziex 512 for $52 including shipping. I ordered the Falken tonight, since all three above got excellent rating,and so it is now all about price. I will report on them after 5K or so, but it is hard not to beat the OEM tires that have over 25K on them now and have really started to deteriorate in performance.

    Enjoy everyones input.

    NOMAD56 are you alive??

    "Feed the forum"

  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    I think my hitch is a Drawtite too. I bought it used for $35 and as expected, it had some rust. I agree with you on protection. I usually repaint even new items before installing as I know the paint is thin and won't hold up. Too lazy to sand? Get some liquid sandpaper in a can. It will soften the paint for better adhesion. I had to sand and use a steel brush because someone didn't have the sense to do this when my hitch was new. Dealer installation, I suppose. Of course, that's why he had to sell it for $35. Original owner had no foresight. Ever notice that things are 'good enough' when elbow grease is involved? We are either too prosperous or too lazy these days.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    We bought 2 97 Camrys when they were about a year old. All was fine for a couple of years, then one winter they started this type of clunking. I thought it was snow/ice build up, as when we got to Phoenix it was fine. Came back to MN and it was back again. Our daughter took the other Camry. Guess what? Hers does it too. I never bothered to find the problem and just assumed it was struts. I sold the car after we bought our 03 Avalon. I will pull my daughters car over my pit and check it though. You sure can learn interesting things in these forums. Work together and we all benefit. My hat is off to those who run them.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    Are you talking about 00 Avalon, 02 Camry and newer? If so, it brings up an interesting question. If the part nunbers are the same for the struts, why couldn't we just upgrade to Camry SE components? I'm not sure if the price would have much advantage over the good stuff though. Does the SE have a heavier interchangeable sway bar and heavier springs? Are the bushings better and interchangeable? Wait a minute, if the struts are the same on these three, why is the Avalon so softly sprung? That would make it the springs, but they seem just fine. The struts usually control the movement. Over the years, I have improved many different vehicles with heavier shocks. Turns out the springs were just fine. Usta be that the tires needed to be oversized too. Our Avalon has the same size tires as my 90 LS400, and it is a larger, heavier car. Even so, it needs larger tires/wheels.

    I remember way back when my folks bought a Chev. Citation. Before delivery, I took the salesman for a ride down the street at less than 30 MPH and we came to a 90 degree corner. I didn't think we were going to make it. The salesman said, "Geez, we're goin in the river." I hated that car. I blamed the springs and those damn incompetent engineers. Turns out the springs were just fine. All it took was to increase the tire pressure from 28 PSI, to anything over 32.

    We had driven a few newer Avalons and I think they had the 16" alloy wheels. We liked the way they drove better than the ES300. When we bought ours, We were disappointed. Something was wrong. Over time, I figured it had to be the 15" wheels. So, my wife broke down and bought a set if 16 x 7 1/2" American Racing Chrome Snipers. I should have them on in a week or so after I decide on tires. 205x60's are a bit smaller in diameter, 215x55's are a bit larger. What speed rating. Probably H is a good compromise. Damn thing won't go that fast anyway. Then there is the brand factor. Decisions, decisions. I tell ya, being a perfectionist is a terrible disease. Drives ya nuts, it does. I'm leaning towards Goodyear Eagle LS as a compromise.

    We were waiting for the Avalon to be redesigned in 2000, but we drove an early production car and were NOT impressed with how it drove and hated the high slab side, grille and tail lights. (Ever notice how the Avalon hood is raised in the center and the Camry is the opposite?) Then we thought about an 02 Camry V6, but they were dogs compared to, say, the Altima. But the Altima's we drove rode harshly and the rear ends clunked. Early production again. Then, we thought the 04 Maximas would do it. Naw, huge torque steer and looked odd. I do like the moon roof though. Oh, what to do, what to do. Well, boys and girls, along came this diamond white - the color we wanted - 03 Avalon with updated grille and tail lights. That made just enough difference that we could own it. Slightly used, but many thousands less than new. Hot dawg, that one is for me! (My wife, actually) I will post what has been done to it since we bought it, later. Can't leave anything alone ya know. Like Honda motorcycles, a good product, but they are like a-holes, everyone has one. I like things a bit different. Guess that's why I ride a Ducati. A buddy once said when they first came out with the 750 and the 90 degree V-twin, "They are so damn ugly that when you stop, you have to dig a hole and bury it." But, they ARE unique. And so, the battle goes on. Tell ya more later.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    I paid under $20k for our Diamond White 03 XL last year with 18k Miles. Enterprise had a silver one for $18.9k back then too. Check or ebay, but I'm sure you have one by now.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    Lubricant discussions are always interesting. It does bother me a bit when an opinion is 150% absolute though. Usually, multiple positions can be taken and all can have some credibility, based on someones experience. I don't understand why one should stay away from blends. My LS 400 had Valvoline Durablend in it and I continue using it. I usually run Valvoline 5W-30 and have for over 20 years. My cars never visit a dealer unless for a recall. They never seem to break either. Of course, they are also Japanese. We usually sell them just before 100k, and they also run and drive like new when sold. I rarely replace brakes or exhaust systems either, as I live a couple of miles outside the city, so they usually have warmed the exhaust system and keep moisture out of the engine. If you look at what the dealer gives you for an inflated price, it will say 'Check this, Check that'. I can do most of that. Todays engines are designed to go 100k without a tune up. That's what I go for. If you have mechanical valve adjusters, for example, that's different, as things wear and change.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    I'm doing the tire/wheel upgrade also, going from 6"wide 205x65-15 steel wheels to 16x7.5" alloy wheels. I am torn between the 205x60-16 and 215x55-16. I have seen different brands mentioned in posts. After living with them, does anyone have any comments or updates?

    We installed Goodyear Allegra's (exclusive to SAMS Club, but similar to the Regatta 2's) on my daughters 97 Camry and we were very impressed overall. Quiet, good ride and handling, and very good snow traction too. I planned to buy these, but they are not avaiable in my size. What SAMS does have is the Goodyear Eagle LS in T and H speed ratings ($72 vs $104) No mileage rating. Goodyear says they are a quiet riding luxury sport tire. Has anyone had experience with these?

    Then at the Goodyear dealer, I found a nice looking new 80k mile tire called the Assurance ConforTred that shows a layer of foam between the cords and outer layer to reduce pavement slap. Sounds good, but I wonder how it will hold up long term and if there is a price to pay in handling. These were $101 for the 205x60-16's.

    Tires Plus mentioned The Bridgestone Turranza-LS-H $135 for the 205, and the Continental CH-95 ($74 for the 205 and $101 for the 215). They had some really sharp 17" wheels too, the Veloche Vergio's.
    More from Tires Plus:

    Description Price/Unit Quantity Total
    Yokohama AVID T4 (205/60R16) BW/ $77.00 4 $308.00
    Goodyear Eagle LS (205/60R16) BW/ $71.00 4 $284.00
    Yokohama AVID H4S (205/60R16) BW/91H $70.00 4 $280.00
    Goodyear Eagle LS (205/60R16) BW/ $69.00 4 $276.00
    Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus (205/60R16) BW/91H $122.00 4 $488.00
    Bridgestone Turanza LS-H (205/60R16) BW/91H $134.99 4 $539.96
    Bridgestone Turanza LS-V (205/60R16) BW/91V $152.99 4 $611.96
    And here is a reply from Tire Rack:

    The Avalon XLS has an optional 16" tire and wheel package and the tire size was 205/60-16. That is why it is recommended; you are correct the overall diameter and revolutions are closer in the 215/55-16. I have no wheel dimensions for this size. The 215/55-16 is only .4 wider and the tire is .2 of an inch shorter so the difference in the 2 tires would be minimal. You may see a slight degree of improved traction and slightly more road noise but not to a large degree. A higher speed rated tire has a stiffer sidewall so it would increase your feeling of the road and it's imperfections. It would however, also give you more handling and steering response and better cornering. There is a trade off and you need to decide what is most important: ride or performance? best compromise tire would be the Michelin Pilot Sport AS for performance lean and Continental Extreme Contact for ride comfort. Let me know if you need anything else.
    Thank you,
    One thing that I didn't understand. The Goodyear dealer said there was an Avalon Sport Package that used 215R60-16 tires. These have a .7" larger diameter and would give a plus 2.6% error. Is there such a package? If so, does it require different suspension geometry and a transmission chip change to correct the error?

    I would appreciate any and all comments and experiences. The fact that my new wheels are 1.5" wider makes me wonder if it would be too wide for the 205's.


  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,907
    55396, I agree with TireRack Emily's comments.

    A higher speed rated tire has a stiffer sidewall so it would increase your feeling of the road and it's imperfections. It would however, also give you more handling and steering response and better cornering.

    Last week I purchased a set of four Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus (205/60R16) V-rated tires for my 2000 XLS. I replaced the originals after 37,200 trouble-free miles. I was looking for the original smooth soft ride that I had become accustomed to. At first I did not like the ride because it felt like I was driving on an unpaved surface, but now I have adjusted and prefer the better handling to the soft cushy ride of yore. Damn, the highway drive is pretty satisfying now.

    I also replaced one of my alloy wheels that I purchased online from for $278, a price that is almost half the dealer price. I had it installed at Sears for free since I had purchased my tires from them. Abfisch, the new wheel did make a significant difference. The car now handles as good as when I got it four years ago. I must say I went to bed with a smile on face after a long drive yesterday.

    And by the way, I just wanted to say that my online buying experience with was great. I got my brand new wheel in 4 days delivered to my front door. The Internet has really made shopping fun, easy and most importantly cheaper.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Just in case folks haven't found it yet, let me tell you that the Town Hall is most fortunate to have a Tire Rack rep right here in the Ask Connor at the Tire Rack discussion. Check it out. :)
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    I agree about online purchases. I bought a color matched lighted spoiler, mats, woodgrain interior, cargo net, gold pkg, etc - all online, from 3 different Toyota dealers and aftermarket. Most found through ebat. Spoiler alone was $690 on a dealer car. I paid $135 with a Diamond White Pearl color match and in the $400 range for the items above, EZ install too. The worst being that I had to drill a couple of holes for the spoiler. The woodgrain had more pieces than factory too. I did cheat on the gold pkg. though. I made it an XLS. Who is gonna know?

    Also, I understand the trade-offs between the 60 vs 55 sidewalls and the H vs V speed ratings. But what I don't know and what is difficult to explain the degree that they occur. Can you take a stab at this? Any more, pavement slap/road noise is very irritating, as is feeling every road imperfection at slower speeds - even if it isn't spine jarring. Yet, we like a car that is fun to drive (and we bought an Avalon?). In view of this, I would probably go with the H instead of the V speed rating. The question is, what is the % of diffeferce between them in NVH.

    I've always had Vettes and muscle cars and have a 55 Chev with a 425HP big block in it. I guess I'm looking for the best compromise for the Avalon. If I lived in the south with smoother roads, my choices would be different, but in northern climates the roads can be rough.

    There are ads in Autoweek for alloy wheel straightening services too.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591

    I think there can be an argument to use Camry SE performance parts but I have no idea if they work or fit. If anyone else does, please comment.

    I find the above discussions, while full of info., a little like putting the cart before the horse. What is it you are trying to accomplish with different wheel and tire combinations??? What type of driving do you do??? What type of weather do you drive in mostly??? Do you realize that putting these differenct tire combinations on, is a recurring expense both in initial outlay for the bigger wheels and tires as well as a decrease in longevity with a larger tire???

    If you don't like the exact why the Avalon rides, than focus on what you don't like about it and start from there. The tires and wheels are probably the LAST thing to change initially, if you desire a most "sport" oriented ride. If you are satisfied with the ride, you might want to get change the tire to a high performance but same size tire. You will still get a relatively soft compliant ride with a bit more responsiveness.

    The objective data from CR, listed the CONS for the 03 model as "excessive diving while braking", "light and fuzzy steering" and secure but NOT NIMBLE handling. Tires will only compensate, but not correct 1 out of these three deficiencies!! There weren't many other CONS. The PROs for this vehicle were more numerous although I could think of a couple of more CONS with almost 50K on my 02 Avalon right now.

    Those interested, would probably get benefit from an old book titled 'How to make your car handle", circa 1970's. The information, as far as suspension systems while dated is timeless.

    It would best serve those interested, to get a basic knowledge of suspension systems and geometry before messing around with different wheel and tire combinations.

    "Feed the forum"

  • gerry100gerry100 Posts: 100
    To whom it may concern-

    KYB customer service has responded to me that they have GR-2 struts to fit 2003 Avalons
    (Right front - PN 334245, Left front - 334246,Right rear-334133,Left rear-334134).

    Tokico responed that they h nothing for an '03, just up to '02. Doesn't sound right but I'm not going to argue.

    The KYBs are a little cheaper I think and some think they are as good , so i'm going that way.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591

    You did the correct thing in calling the companies. That is what I would have done..KYB makes a quality strut, much better IMO than the "stuff" that Toyota calls OEM. I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the difference. If you live in an area exposed to salt, then you might want to recall KYB and ask them what they recommend to protect the strut further from corrosion. I did this when I installed the TokicoHP's without harming the stainless rod or covering the ID number stamped into the struts for warrranty reasons. Although you will not have that "white" color of the KYB under your car, spraying them with a heavy duty undercoating without harming the piston or seals, will further enhance thier longevity before they are installed. Remember, you will need to get a F and R alignment too, usually another $70 or so.

    Let us know how it all works out. I hope you get the same satisfaction as others, as I think this is one of the weakest links in an otherwise, fine but plain, 4 wheel independent suspension. Mine rides much more like a police interceptor these days, especially with all the highway driving I do.

    Let us know how it goes.

  • mcclearyflmcclearyfl Posts: 149
    Well, I tried to follow up with the Finance Department at my local Toyota dealer about the $730 6-yr, 100,000-mile bumper to bumper extended warranty.

    Turns out my salesman is no longer with the company, and no one knows of any such deal. Seems like he was mistaken, confused or trying to get me in the store. The Toyota Company website does provide a Platinum deal which is extensive, but we are talking over $1400.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    Thanks for the comments. In the past, I have found that the spring rates from the factory are not that far off. Example: My wife had a Ford Fairlane 500 V8 when we got married. When you turned a corner, it leaned and acted like the front tire wanted to eat the fender. I put the larger, wider wheels and tires from my Roadrunner on the Fairlane and it magically transformed into a different driving car. Next I installed Monroe super duty shocks, which were almost too firm, but after a trip to Arizona to break them in, the package was about ideal. My feeling is that the springs in the Avalon are OK and may only need a bit more control. I'm anxiously awaiting feedback on the KYB installation. We chose the 16" wheels for a couple of reasons. This is the optional size, cars we have driven with them on drove much better than ours w/15's - although tires may be a factor here too - I don't want to buy new 15" tires to find out. Appearance is another plus w/16's, and we wanted to keep the stock wheels and tires for winter. I do not want to drive my new chrome wheels in the salt. My next car will probably be an ES300 - or, if they do the job right, the redesigned Avalon and I would buy it with standard wheels, then put these on it. That would also be the case if I bought one with a few miles on it like this one. Rental units usually have the basic stuff. If I buy tires at SAMS, the switch back and forth is free. I feel that longer term, this reduces my outlay, rather than paying up for new wheels each time. I've always felt that if I made my cars what I want them to be, I keep them longer too.

    I guess I don't understand the last part of this: "Do you realize that putting these differenct tire combinations on, is a recurring expense both in initial outlay for the bigger wheels and tires as well as a decrease in longevity with a larger tire???"
    If the diameter and revs per mile are the same, and the tires are wider and have more rubber, why wouldn't they last longer? Yes, they may be a bit pricier and that make it a wash. This assumes the same wear/mileage rating of course.

    I hope that explains my thinking.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    I'm anxiously awaiting the results on the KYB installation. Please report bach soon when you get them on. I looked up the front strut. Does this sound about right on price?

    Code: 334245
    List Price: $137.21
    Your Price: $78.00 Save: 43%
    Shipping Weight: 13.00 pounds

    Anyone have the price for the Tokico's?
  • gerry100gerry100 Posts: 100
    It may be a while before I can report results, as I've got to sell the program to the lease company.

    To help my case, the Toyota dealer quoted me $1200plus to replace my struts with the original junk.

    Approx $80 sounds right, from the websites I've checked.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591

    I put my TokicoHPs on about 2.5 years now, so I cannot remember exactly. I think I got the set of four for about $400, and about 3 hours of labor, then $70 for the 4 wheel alignment. Labor is about $70/hr where I am, but it may vary depending on location. Sounds like alot of money, but I had to do it, as I tend to keep vehicles for a very long time and do extensive highway driving.

    I hope you get the same satisfaction as I with them. There are other smaller, less costly modifications but this is really the best and the biggest change you will find for this vehicle.

    It does not surprise me the price that Toyota charges for replacements on their OEM part. The $80/piece for the KYB struts seem about right, as they are a little lower priced than the TokicoHPs. They are struts and not shocks both in the front and the rear so these tend to be more money to begin with.

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