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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006



  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,389
    You'll get a recall letter in the mail from Hyundai. From there, call any Hyundai dealer and set up an appointment for the recall work. They should know what you're talking about. The entire repair cost is paid for by Hyundai; your only cost is the time & inconvenience. If they need your car overnight or for an extended period you can usually get a free rental or loaner; this should be arranged by the dealer so all you do is sign & drive.

    If you don't get the recall letter from Hyundai it's possible your car isn't affected. That said, you can also call your dealer's service department, give them the VIN of your car, and they'll look it up (no charge) to see if there are any outstanding recalls.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,389
    Must have come in as her Elantra is now ready. We can't pick it up 'til Friday, though, as my wife took the loaner out of town to see her family.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • nipunsharpnipunsharp Posts: 1
    I have the same problem, 2003 elantra, Its not the brake, i had rusted brake drum and they were rubbing against the brakes and made a faint sound, thought this was the reason of slowing down. I fixed it , changed the brakes, but it is still slowing, the reason is the transmission, when at the dealer, i tried to spin the front tire it was really hard because it is connected to the tranny. The rear tire were smooth. It is because of the transmission. i have to try change the tran fluid, and see if it works. I dont know why there is so much resistance in the tranny.
  • 2003 GLS 5M. 83K miles. It has been a good year - no problems. Only downside is appearance of 1/2" x 3" area of rusty blisters over the left rear wheel well. Also have an appointment scheduled for the subframe changeout. Come on Hyundai - you have a good product. Make it better by improving your corrosion protection. Still have original:

    Rear Brakes

    Granted the kids are all grown but the upholstery is as good as the day it left the showroom. Everyone seemed to hate the "airplane pattern" but I like it. At least on these little econoboxes the door panel had the fabric on it unlike the newer model. I'm hoping to keep the car for at lest another 2 years.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    edited June 2010
    My 2004 GT still has the original exhaust, but I replaced the rear brakes at about 45k and just replaced the battery. The car was starting OK, but at the last oil change the dealer said the battery tested weak, and with my son taking it to college in August, in MN, and parking it outside all the time and not driving it much, I figured $85 for a new battery was a good idea--six winters on the old one wasn't too bad. Had a hard time finding a replacement though--AutoZone had them in stock however.

    Re rust--no signs of rust on my '04 despite living in the Rust Belt, lots of road salt used here. The secret I think is frequent washing in the winter, plus touching up any nicks as soon as possible, and waxing of course. I am lucky that a local gas station has an all-cloth automatic wash that is only $5 for a basic wash with fillup. That is a godsend in the winter.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    Hey folks, I have an interesting dilemma. My airbag light came on recently, and after being checked out by my trusted mechanic, it has been determined that the passenger side seat-mounted airbag needs to be replaced. Why the airbag? Why not a connection or something else? Why would a never-deployed airbag go "bad" and need replacing? Dealer says the seatback needs replacing, and my mechanic said he'd look for a seatback in a salvage yard and use the airbag. Any thoughts on this? Has anyone else here had the light come on?

    Friday will mark 9 years with this sweet car, at nearly 105,000 miles (2001 GLS, 5 speed). Rust is making its way around the inner edges of the wheel wells and bubbling up a bit on the surface, and also at the rearmost edge of the rocker panel on the driver's side. Will have to decide on some bodywork soon, but otherwise this car has been soooooo very good. I'm quite pleased, and hope to have the same good service from the 2012 model I hope to buy. :)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    A friend had to replace an airbag in a Mitsubishi under the same conditions. He was told that the bag isn't the issue, but that the computer monitors the igniter resistance and if it falls outside of a pre-determined range, the light comes on and the bag (with the igniter) must be replaced. The thought behind this is that the igniter may not fire the bag explosive. A wreck would be a terrible time to determine you had a dud! :surprise:

    Durndest thing I had ever heard of!

    BTW, I assume the wiring under the seat was checked to make sure the harness hadn't been damaged or unplugged?
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    Thanks, jlflemmons ... I am not sure that the under-seat wiring was checked, but I can look for myself with a mirror and flashlight. I do know that nothing has been shoved under the seat to dislodge the wiring, but maybe it happened long ago and is just now loose enough to make a difference.

    Any ideas about how they know which airbag, or is it part of the OBD system?

    I can always put my passengers in the back seat. Or the trunk. ;-)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Had a back seat passenger lately? One who may have put their feet under the seat and dislodged the harness? A stretch, I know, but stranger things ...

    The airbag is a different system and cannot be read by a conventional OBDII scanner. A special scan tool is used for the airbag system, or at least it was on my buddies car.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    After last week's wash and vacuum, I noticed that the airbag light had gone out again. The seats get moved back and forth so that I can vacuum as much of the carpeting as possible, so I tried an experiment when I got home. With the engine running, I moved the passenger seat back and forth slowly, and sure enough, the light goes on and off accordingly. Now I need to get under there and find out which wire is the problem and WHAT the issue is -- corrosion, loose connection, etc.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Those seats are held in by four easy to access bolts. Slide the seat back, and you can easily reach the fronts, slide it forward, and the back bolts are in plain sight. Just be careful you don't stress the harness when you tilt the seat. I seem to recall that tilting them backwards into the rear gives the easiest harness access.
  • micky5micky5 Posts: 1
    I appear to have a problem with my turn signal switch and dashboard lights. When using the turn signals my dashboard lights will go out, and I have to tap the turn signal arm to get them back on. I am considering replacing the turn signal switch but wonder if it could be a wiring problem not directly related to the switch. Also my tach functions intermittently but I do not know if this is related. Any ideas?
  • srs7srs7 Posts: 1
    Can someone please help with my 02 sensor frustration? I feel really dumb. Check engine light was coming on forever on my 2005 Elantra... so I checked the code and got P2626. Looked it up and it says it should be the oxygen sensor. Thinking I'm smart, I went and bought the upstream sensor from Autozone. When I opened the hood, I immediately saw what I thought to be the oxygen sensor that needed to be replaced right next to the oil dipstick. But, when I removed the connector, I found that it was much larger than the connector on the sensor I bought from the store. So (sure that what I was looking at on the engine was the oxygen sensor) I went back to the store and returned the oxygen sensor that I had just bought for the other one that is meant for this car. Brought that one home, and it didn't fit either... So, what am I messing up? Below is a (low quality, sorry) picture of what I have been thinking is the sensor that needs to be replaced. Is that where I'm wrong? Where the heck is this thing then? Thanks for your help... try not to make fun of me too much... well, ok... guess I deserve it.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Well, that is the O2 sensor. But when checking other auto parts sites, there are several different sensors shown. You might want to try O'Reilly's or Advance. Not trying to start a flame-war here, but Autozone is at the bottom of my list for parts, especially sensors. I even had an Autozone employee tell me to go to the dealer for a crankshaft position sensor because, in his words, "ours sensors are not very good". He probably could have gotten fired for that, but I later had a tricky problem that was root-caused to be a defective cam sensor that was out of spec, right out of the box.

    Some things you just have to go to the manufacturer to be sure you are getting the right part.

    Good luck.
  • therivertheriver Posts: 70
    Please excuse the post - I am new to Elantras (have posted on honda forums).

    I am in need of a third car (4 drivers - two teens - only two current cars. I have an opportunity to purchase an 02 Elantra Gt with just over 100 k. Price was under 3500. No known issues - buying from a friend of friend, who is basically getting rid of an excess car.

    The mileage doesn't bother me - likely only put 10-15K per year if that.

    Anyway - I have never owned a Hyundai. Is this a worthwhile car at this mileage. I don't mind repairs as I keep my cars until they fall apart. Just need reliable without excess repairs. Anything I should ask the person


  • MY 2003 Elantra GLS 5M has 93K miles on it and has been quite reliable. I would ask your friend if the timing belt has been changed. Hyundai recommends changing it at 60K and 120K miles. The engine design is such that a broken belt will cause serious problems. Mine has been changed once and cost around $300.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    That generation of Elantra (the XD series) are very solid little cars. Expect about 30MPG highway, and around 22-25 in town. I owned a '02 GLS and an '05 GT, and both were rock solid. Currently driving a '10 Elantra Touring, also trouble free.

    As mentioned above, find out about the timing belt, and if an automatic tranny, how often it has been serviced. The 4spd auto in these does not use a filter, and the fluid should be changed every 30K.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    Have a mechanic you can trust go over the car. They can give you an estimate of what work it might need. One thing about the GTs is they have 4 wheel discs standard, so they should be checked to ensure you don't need a brake job right away--that would cost a few bucks. They should also check the underbody for rust, if the car has been owned where road salt is used or near the ocean.

    I have a 2004 GT with nearly 60k miles and it's needed only minor things like light bulbs, and new struts for the hatch (that was a warranty item). Also needed to replace the rear pads and rotors at 45k. Other than that, it's been a great car, still drives and looks (except for a few dings) like new. But the expensive 60k service is looming... you would face that in 20k miles. Cost at a dealer can be around $1000, including timing belt. Plus the car will need new tires before next winter. But I'm going to keep it, for my son to finish college in 3 years--and maybe more. Gotta use up that powertrain warranty!
  • I have an 02 Elantra GT with just over 90K miles which I bought new. My wife drove it mainly. Very reliable and have had no problems other than the a front strut locked up when it was put on the lift for recent service. Due to the age that could be expected since they were original struts. I still get about 34 miles to gallon (it has manual trans.) I would suggest you have a mechanic look at it and ask if seller has service records which indicate it has been maintained regularly.

    Good luck.
  • 2003 Elantra GLS Manual 93K miles. Car always cranks and starts when cold. After it gets up to temp if the car is turned off - then attempt to start it won't crank. If I then cycle the clutch a couple of times or just let it cool down for a couple of minutes it will crank and start. Dash lights dim when it won't crank. Recently replaced the battery - did the same thing with the old battery also before it (the battery)died. Almost seems that something is binding which the starter can't overcome.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Or the starter itself is bad...
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    edited March 2011
    My 2004 Elantra GT hatch turns 7 next week. Has almost 60k miles, so I'll have to fork over for that big service. But it's the first big money I've had to spend on the car. Mechanically it's been nearly flawless. Did have to replace the rear pads and rotors at 45k, but that seems common in this car. Other than a few light bulbs, no parts have failed that I had to pay for. I replaced the OEM Kenwood stereo a year ago because it always had terrible AM reception and the flip-down control panel was a pain. Bought a new Kenwood system for $100 (installed) and it slipped right in. Hatch struts were replaced just before the 5-year warranty expired as they were losing their bounce. I've also notice the wipers have slowed down just a bit, so maybe I'm looking at a new wiper motor sometime soon. Also will need to replace the tires before next winter. This set is the 2nd set; I replace the original Michelins at 18k when my wife blew a tire and rim in a blizzard, and four new tires cost as much as two replacement Michelins.

    The car still drives and rides like new. No rattles or squeaks. Suspension seems a little firmer than when new, but it could be because of the worn tires. Interior has held up well, and the leather is in great shape except for a buff mark on the driver's left bolster. That appeared a few years ago, I think because the car was used in several auto shows before I bought it. Paint is still glossy (wax it 2-3 times a year), but has several little dings. Alloys have a few digs from curbs. Driver's side headlamp housing fogs up sometimes after a big rain or car wash, but that goes away pretty fast.

    Fuel economy is about the same as new. I still get mid-30s on the highway and mid-to-upper 20s in town, but I don't get to drive it much anymore as my son has the car at college. The hatch comes in real handy for carting his stuff to and from school. There's a lot of room in back, especially with the fold-up rear seat bottoms that provides a flat load floor. Few cars have that feature today.

    It's been a great car and I hope it holds up as well for the next three years to get my son through college. Then it will be his graduation present. I checked KBB today and found the car is still worth around $6500-7000 in a private party sale--about where it's been for the past 2-3 years. Since the car cost only $13k ($17.4k list), it's only lost half its value in 7 years. Not bad at all.
  • This will be the last report as I have purchased a new 2011 Elantra GLS auto with PEP. 2003 Elantra GLS 5M with 93K miles. Subframe was replaced free under a recall. The original battery finally died and was replaced. Also had an intermittant no crank condition which was fixed by replacing the clutch interlock switch. This was the only unusual failure other than the emergency brake cable having to be replaced the other year. Rust over the rear wheel wells has gotten worse and is the only disappointing thing I have had with this car. Original exhaust still in place. Air conditioning was still working fine last summer when I used it last - never required any service. Interior fabrics still look as good as the day I drove out of the showroom (no kids at home). The old girl is not as refined as the new one but it always got me where I was going. It will be going to a grandchild for hopefully many more good miles.
  • cs86cs86 Posts: 3
    edited May 2011

    2004 Elantra GLS with just under 74k; 2nd owner. Oil changes every 3k. Tires rotated/re-balanced every 6 months & replaced as needed, as well as alignments when needed... I have always used Chevron gas since I bought it at 33k along with fuel injection cleaners (Gumout) every so often. Drive belts, brake pads replaced & rotors turned at 50k (gouge in left-front rotor, told may have been a rock). New battery & transmission fluid replaced at 63k. Spark plugs & wires replaced 3 weeks ago (I used NGK platinums & an NGK wire set). Timing belt/water pump replaced & fuel system cleaned 2 weeks ago. Obviously I was late on TB/WP, although for some reason I managed to skip that page in my owner's manual until I discovered it at 70k.
    More work than that has been done overall, but just touching base with what -might- help narrowing down what's going on...

    Noticed symptoms before having the timing belt/water pump replaced... but at the time I needed my tires balanced/rotated; was overdue on an oil change (by ~500 miles); the power steering belt had a lot of slack in it and was causing a very loud squeal when cold, when turning as well as a squeal when accelerating from a stop; and the water pump bearing was making a lovely noise. Until that was all done in the last 2 weeks, I wasn't sure what noises/etc. were caused by what. I usually don't neglect my car that poorly, but my mom was in ICU for a few months; driving of the car nearly tripled suddenly and it all seemed to start during that time... but right then, my mind was not focused on my car. After the recent work, everything else is running great, only thing left is this...

    When above 50mph, I was hearing what I thought was a rock in my tire that just never went away. Inspected myself and saw nothing, but took it in to have the tires inspected at Les Schwab anyway in case I missed something lodged in the tread or something, but told yet again that all of that checks out. I was also told by the shop that did the TB/WP that they inspected everything, including the wheels/brakes/suspension-related stuff & it is all in good shape. The sound was hard to narrow down with wind noise above 50-60mph, but now I believe it could instead be popping...after I read around trying to find similar questions, and including a few other symptoms...

    The idle is quite rough (compared to the barely noticable idle that made me check whether it was even running the first few weeks after I bought it, anyway), and there is hesitation/sluggishness on acceleration, especially the faster I am driving. The hesitation & rough idle was much worse before the TB/WP replacement. I had discussed all symptoms at the time, including the fuel filter recommended replacement at 60k (apparently also skipped that page until now). I was worried the fuel pump might be going bad from a clogged or partly clogged filter, so they recommended a fuel pressure test first to try to narrow down the problem. They told me after that, "the fuel pressure is 'perfect' to OEM specs for my car, which tells them my fuel filter is fine".

    Sometimes at idle after highway driving, I will hear a sort of "purr" sound, quite low and throaty, reminds me of a muffler issue kind of noise I've heard on other people's cars. Not always, though. When pulling it into the driveway for the night, the "purr" will stop in Park, but it will then switch to or cause a high-pitched and relatively quiet hiss/whine noise (Park only). Doesn't last very long, if I'm not quick about getting out and lifting the hood it goes away, but I think it might be coming from somewhere around one of the radiator hoses?? The shop's overall inspection did note that the "exhaust system shows usual wear for a car around 75k". But didn't note any actual problems, like a big gaping hole in my muffler, or something. Just "usual wear" (I'm going to talk with them tomorrow to find out what their definition of "usual wear" is, in case my problem might be related to the exhaust somehow).

    Prior to TB/WP replacement, when stopped, the idle was "chugging", the car kept vibrating/shaking or feeling like it would die, but it never did. It just felt almost like it was coughing... giving it gas seemed to help, but accelerating was difficult, about half the power as it normally had. Now it is probably 2/3 power of what I consider normal when accelerating. Not as bad/rough, but it's not great.

    Also: no CEL, no overheating, no stalling/dying, no hard starts, no stored codes, no smoke from exhaust, no trouble switching gears...

    Anyway - could it still be a fuel filter issue, if the fuel pressure is "perfect"? I do plan to replace the filter regardless of what they told me after the fuel pressure test, just because it is overdue according to the owner's manual. But, if there might be more that needs attention, I would like to get it all done in one trip.

    I love my car. Even with Hyundai skeptics/anti-Hyundai advocates that I know (my brother is a hardcore Toyota fan), my car still keeps going! Now I want to give her the attention she deserves so she'll keep on going. Sorry this is so long, just wanted to include anything I thought might help... any input is much appreciated. Thank you.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    A vacuum test can isolate a partially blocked exhaust. Most anything in the ignition going wrong will trip a CEL.

    Might try some Techron fuel system cleaner. Costs a bit more, but I have had good luck with it, and /or Seafoam. I have seen coils go weak on these, but always trips CEL. Be sure the NGK plugs are correct for the engine. Too "cold"of a plug can cause issues with drivability without setting the CEL.

    Good luck!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Bought daughter a one owner, non-smoker 2006 Elantra hatchback with 79K. Looks like new inside and out, and runs like a top. That brings the fleet to:

    2010 Tucson Ltd
    2010 Touring SE
    2006 Elantra Hatchback GLS
    1999 Chevrolet Blazer (hey, when you can buy your own, you can get what you want, son.)
  • cs86cs86 Posts: 3
    Well the shop that did my timing belt/water pump replacement also tested and cleaned or flushed the fuel system. I'm honestly not sure how they do it or if it's any different than a cleaner you can buy at any auto parts store but it seemed to help, somewhat. I changed the fuel filter and that helped the chugging, most of the hesitation, and the severe lag when accelerating at a stop.

    Still some hesitation, but now that the fuel filter's changed I can pinpoint it to when accelerating/switching into gear... I've kept up on the transmission fluid changes, but at the time I didn't know to make sure the repair shop used the Hyundai-specific fluid, so they used stuff that's compatible or comparable to OEM specs or something. I didn't know the apparent importance of Hyundai-specific/OEM fluids, I'm going to take it in to the local transmission shop & have them look at it... and at least replace the fluid.

    Still no CEL, it's really fun trying to figure out my car and it's noises when it wont throw a CEL and I don't know a lot about cars, lol. Learning, though!

    Thanks for your reply, jlflemmons
  • Better late than never. My wife has a 2001 Elantra. I've fought this noise problem for 10 years. In 2011 I finally found the thumping (sometimes clicking, sometimes no sound for a year or more, then always comes back) problem. The wheel bolts are too long and the "closed" wheel nuts bottom out on the end of the nut. Thus the hub is not being held tightly against the wheel and can "wiggle" a little bit as the wheel rotates. When the brakes are being applied, this causes the hub to actually wobble enough to cause the noise. (not all of the nuts bottom out, so the wheel is only loose on one side, thus the wobble.)
  • I just replace the OEM radio with an aftermarket radio. When I turned on the lights I heard a pop and the dashboard lights do not work. I have checked the fuses but a little difficult without the owners manual. I checked the all of the wires and could not find anything wires that may have been pinched. Any ideas?

  • I have an 2006 Elantra GLS with the ABS, TCS, Moon Roof package that I bought new back in September of 2006. My wife drives the car, and believe it or not, as of right now it only has 9958 miles on it. I had it to the dealer today for a six month oil change (I have lifetime free oil changes, so why not?). The service rep was telling me that I needed to have the timing belt changed soon. He said that even though the car has less than 10,000 miles on it, he said it is past the 48 month recommended change time. I would like the thoughts and recommendations of the group on this. Should/does it need changing now or not? Also, what is to be expected cost wise to have the dealer do the change, and what extras are needed? Belts? Water pump?
    Thanks; Gregg
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