Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda Millenia



  • As I said, in Hawaii HEAT is an issue and any turbo or super charger will obviously increase the engine's heat and therefore I feel that a regular 2.5 V-6 is better, not to mention the fact that we don't have long, empty roads (except on the Big Island---some REALLY NICE roads over there!!) and we pay more for gas ( 89 OCT E10 is around $2.60 gal) so I would not get the S model unless you got some great deal---I have a 98, after putting 150K mi on a 95, and I intend to get an '01 or '02 Millenia soon---great cars for Hawaii!!

    Still looking for any advice on CGR engine code and stereo replacement tips----aloha all, Mike
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,437
    Not to get into an argument here, but the S has the cooling capacity it needs for hot conditions. To your other point, the S actually gets better mileage than the M non-turbo model (which has less power and also uses premium fuel).
  • bmehrerbmehrer Posts: 3
    My daughter's 99 mazda millenia is experiencing surging problems upon take off. Once the car gets up to speed around 30 mph the problem is gone.
    But when she first starts off the car jerks almost like it is not getting gas. Any suggestions.
  • Been there, done that---first--2 questions--

    1) Is this the 2.5 or the "Miller Cycle" motor?

    2) is the "check engine" light on??

    Obviously, if the light is on, go get a code reader and see what results---the CGR (emissions related) system is a weak link with this model, and a new hose/sensor usually resolves it---if not, next most likely culprit is bad wires/distributor cap---engine needs good spark from a standstill even more than at 2,3,4,000rpm, and the factory wires are junk---easy check is to get car in very dark surroundings (so, night-time is best), and then throw blanket over whole front end and run car---you will SEE sparks jumping if this is the problem---new wires/cap/rotor usually does it---hopefully it's not a bad distributor as they run over $500 at best---ouch----always check air filter when ANYTHING goes wrong---make sure it's not clogged, etc.

    You're welcome to get me at : if you can't resolve---I'm on my 3rd Millenia and love these models----good cars!! Mike Reilly, Kaneohe, HI
  • bmehrerbmehrer Posts: 3
    Hi Mike

    thanks for the reply. It is the 2.5 model i believe but will check when my daughter brings the car home tonight. I will try your suggestions and get back to you. Thanks again, hoping to resolve the issue myself as two daughters in college have me financially tapped out if you know what i mean.


    PS. where can i get a code reader?
  • They cost a lot, for a good one, and you can usually buy one at an auto parts store, wal mart, or any big box retailer, but I'd just go to a reliable mechanic to get the code deciphered---it takes some time to learn how to use it and it shouldn't cost that much (under $50) to get the codes out, so, why buy one? You only need to do this if ther "check engine" light is on---

    Let me know how it goes- Aloha--Mike
  • bmehrerbmehrer Posts: 3
    Hey Buddy,

    opened up her hood and the air intake hose is totally broke in half between the air filter and the engine. Ordered one overnight from partswarehouse for. Not sure if that will make a difference. I tried to tape the other one for a quick fix until the new part came but it did not make a difference. Would this hose cause the engine surging.

    B. from the mainland "lake tahoe"
  • HELL YA!! That would screw with the O2 sensor and confuse the computer----I'll bet it runs great after replacing it----if you don't look under the hood for that long, you need a mechanic to look it over---I'll bet your wires are old and the battery is marginal----give your gal some help here and get it up to snuff!!

    Glad to hear it's not a big deal!! Aloha, Mike
  • maybugmaybug Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Millenia with about 90K miles. For the past few months, since a tune-up performed by a local shop, the car has been stalling at stoplights or while standing. It happens infrequently and unpredictably. The check engine light would come on and off. My mechanic diagnosed it as potentially a problem with the "idle air motor". I took it ot he dealer, and they said that its a problem with the torque relating to the transmission, and that I need a new transmission. He said that its unusual to need a new transmission with the mileage, but that it may have been allowed to run hot with a previous owner (I purchased the car used last year). He said that the new transmission job would cost $3,500 and that they don't recommend rebuilds on these because they don't last. Uggh. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks
  • In response to your post about intermittent stalling---are you telling me that the "check engine" light comes on but then goes off??!! There are only 2 ways to get a light to go off----one is to use a "code reader" which a mechanic could use to determine what code is being presented, and, using the hand-held device, turn the light off----I'm going to assume that this is not your situation-----the other way to get the light to go off is to disconnect the battery, which would clear any and all lights until the on-board computer generated another code report----if your car ACTUALLY has the light coming on and then going off w/o you doing anything, I'd bet dimes to dollars that you have a bad battery connection, probably the negative, or "ground" side of the battery------either clean both battery posts and try it again " and get a meter on that battery to see if it's still good------good=13+ volts======or replace the battery----if you are in a cold temperature environment (I am in Hawaii and so this doesn't happen here!!), chances are you have a bad battery, which would explain the symptoms you are describing---easy to get fixed---I go to Sears and pay just under $100 for a GOLD die hard battery as they last the longest and come w/3 years replacement (pro-rated mind you) warranty, so I would check this out before any tranny work, which, although it could possibly be true, is unlikely.

    FYI, I have a complete trans from my last Millenia (1995 2.5L V6) that I would sell you for $350, but you would have to pay for the shipping, and since I don't know where you are, it's hard to say if it would make sense----let me know what happens at: luck and aloha, Mike
  • tres1013tres1013 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Mazda Millenia with about 105,000 miles. Upon pressing the gas, it starts to sputt. If i press lightly to accelerate about 3-4 mph it cruises along fine, but as soon as i start pressing the pedal harder to accelerate, it starts to sputt as if it is not getting any gas. I've replaced my fuel filter, i've had a tune-up and even the catalytic converters checked. recently, i've had the computer changed (suppossedly the shop did it) and still the samething. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • i have a 1997 madza millenia 2.5 and i recently had new spark plugs installed because
    of a missing problem and was told that i had two burned plugs, now it is still missing,some times worse than others especially within the last few days and the check engine light is blinking,when it runs a little smoother the light will just stay on without blinking but, that only lasts for about two to three minutes,what is the problem?i'm beginning to think that the guy that put the plugs in simply just put one or two back in the wrong order,but then what do i know...can someone help me? : :sick: :
  • A) Is there a "check engine" light on?? If so, it's the #1 thing to go and do, get someone with a code-reader to pull a code out and follow that where it goes--

    B) If not, is it possible that you have water in the gas?? We have to think about that here in Hawaii as salt water intrusion happens now and then, especially with gas stations near the coast, older tanks, etc. Gotta either drain it out or fill it up and drive around 'till it's low and fill up again, and I always add a bottle of STP gas treatment even if I am using 92 octane gas to keep injectors clean--

    C) Next is the O2 sensor---with the sophisticated, computerized system on these cars, the sensors tell the computer how much gas to inject and it sounds like fuel deprivevation as your car starts, and runs at low rpm, so maybe the computer is getting bad info (and hopefully it;s not a bad computer as that will run you $1200 new or maybe $4-500 used for a new computer---ouch!!)

    D) Inspect air filter to intake, looking for blockage or LEAKS---leaks are common with 100,000+ mi systems--

    E) Drink beer---works for me---good luck!!

  • I have had a new computer put in my car about 1and 1/2 yrs. ago along with much more things as it reached the hundred thou.mark and really have not had any trouble to speak of except needing and replacing my battrey in the last four yrs. but it seems that lately when it rains it pours, i've heard that things happen in threes well, i've had my three,but all and all i really can't complain. thanks for the info. :)
  • dlang12dlang12 Posts: 1
    I have a customer that has stated that her 1999 millenia was operating "fine" and the she attempted to lower the sun visor and upon touching the metal she was "severly" shocked. the vehicle then stalled. Upon attempting to restart the vehicle it started fine. However, at this point the only way to turn the vehicle off is to disconnect the ignition system under the hood. I assume that a bad ground caused the initial issue and that the ECM is now shot. Does anyone have any other Ideas?

  • rgilleanrgillean Posts: 1
    Did they ever find the problem with your transmission? I am going through the same thing with my 2002 Millenia right now. Had it rebuilt, drove 400 miles, went out again. Has been back in shop for 2 weeks now, still can't find the problem.
  • steely72steely72 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Millenia with a Miller engine. The light has been on since 3 weeks after I bought the car. The dealer fixed it and it went on after about a month, and about every month after that until it was out of warrantee. I was told everything from using "plus" gas to changing the whatevers? The car runs fine (except that the tires flatten every few days from those super cool rims) after 9 years. I have spent thousands trying to get that light out. I have had the engine torn apart. I now have to get it inspected and the state will not pass it with the darn light on,
  • see last post---was intended for you--Mike In Kaneohe, HI
  • my brother gave it to me, he has had it since it was new and since the first oil change has used moble1 synthetic oil, and med grade gas. It haas 170,000 miles on it, everything works well. He works in sales and over 90 percent of the miles are highway, drive like a caddy. Only problem was the rear wheel well were rusted out, had both fixed. Cross my fingers and drive this one like a puppy, hope to make well over 200,000 miles, the trans also has sythetic in it, and shifts and idles very nice. Thank you Bro!!!!
  • rbarnettrbarnett Posts: 3
    i need to know how to get belts loose.i have a 1999 mazda mellenia,i found the adjustments that loosen belts,they will not turn,is there somethingelse to loosen?
  • hello i have a mazda millenia 01 and the engine makes an unoticeable noise like the one made by the fan of the ac. The person who sold it to me told me its the supercharger but when i went to check at a mechanic the day i bought it the they told me it s a bearing that needs to be changed. Then a week later i went to my mechanic to change that but he told me it s the supercharger. Now i wonder if anyone really has a clue bcs the car drive very well and still has a lot of power. Plus the check engine like is on just a week after my mechanic removed it saying it was a stupid code.
  • krumtxkrumtx Posts: 5
    you need to do at least 2 things. first, find out what codes are stored(this is why your ce lite is on), and second, NEVER go back to that "mechanic" who says it was a stupid code. what he was actually saying was that he was too stupid to decipher the code, which in most cases can be found on the web, unless he dont read english. if your supercharger was bad, it would have no power, and smoke like there is no tomorrow.
  • eejameseejames Posts: 2
    Bought the car in 2007 from my son-in-laws VW dealership where he works as a finance manager. It has been great. Had a problem with the shifting panel in the car, coke spilled in it. Whole thing was replaced including spark plugs, and a new replacement head light to a tune of $1,200 which my son-in-law paid for and gave us a loaner car.

    He called and said they couldn't fix it. That it was now overheating which was not a problem we had ever had, in fact, we had a new radiator put in about a year and a half ago. He wants us to have it towed to a Mazda dealership. He said he thinks it has something to do with the engine timing. He said diagnostics are different for each brand of car and Mazda would be able to fix it better.

    Does anyone have an idea as to what could be making it overheat? Money is tight now and I am wondering at what kind of costs I am looking at? The diagostic at Mazda is $100 but goes toward the repairs.

    Thanks for any light you can shed on this!

  • lboogielboogie Posts: 7
    hey, it could be the water pump going out or the thremostat. no matter mazda going to charge u more for any thing on the s model. i have the 01 and i have problems trying to get it looked at and fix, but i'm like u. u pay a 100 for diagostic and the labor is going to do the rest. and if it's under the timing cover, u would have to change the timing belt also since they got eveything out of the way. all of that i think will be about 2500 with parts and labor and the car we got, a lot of people don't like working on them or don't have anyone that can work on them. i hope that was helpful.
  • lboogielboogie Posts: 7
    also check and see if the fan is coming on. make sure it's plugged up and check to see if the relay is bad.
  • eejameseejames Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info! I forgot to mention though that they did replace the thermostat. I pray it doesn't cost 2,500 and that maybe it is something simple!

  • My 2001 Millenia just starting making an engine noise that when I heard it for the first time sounded like rod/valve train knock or maybe an exhaust leak. The noise only happens when you first start the engine after it has sit (the longer it sits the longer the noise lasts). The noise goes away as you rev the engine up much past 1800-2000 rpm and completely goes away after the first few minutes of driving. I am not sure if cars even have harmonic balancers anymore but sounds just like one of those I had go bad on a 70's Chevy many years ago.
  • Did you ever find out what was causing your noise? My post 3951 could be something similar, if not related to the supercharger, as mine is the 2.5. I will let you know if I learn anything as I may bring it in soon. Like this car way too much to let it go on much longer without knowing and risking damage.
  • hello thx very much for the answer.
    you were right about the mechanic. I went to the dealer and they told me it was my catalytic converter.
    About the noise they said it comes from the supercharger in deed but it is still good for now.
    Now i am wondering. Can i put a 97 supercharger on my 01 millenia S????

    Another thing, my air bag light started flashing and it won't stop. And when i went to the dealer it wasn t flashing anymore. So they did not see anything.
    ANy ideas???
  • to 5th mazda, it is the supercharger that makes noise. THey say it hasn't started to take oil yet so it is good until then.
    Now i am looking for a place where to buy a cheap supercharger that matches my 01 millenia s.
Sign In or Register to comment.