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Mazda Millenia



  • I have a a '98 Mazda Millenia S. The starter was replaced yesterday. When I picked up the car the mechanic told me I might need a new flywheel. The car did start a few time today. Now it will not start. Is it true that the only way to get to flywheel is to drop the transmission. I am being quoted $1,000 for the repair job.
  • tarasbtarasb Posts: 4
    edited February 2010
    First of all: When you try to start the car, can you hear the engine turn over? If your engine turns over but it won't start then your flywheel is good. If the engine does not turn over then lister for the noise your starter is making, if you just hear ONE CLICK OR CLUNK and nothing else then its your starter. But if it sounds like electric motor is spinning (whining sound) then read this post to the end.
    Yes you have to take the transmission out to get to flywheel, but I never herd of a case where flywheel teeth were damaged by the starter. You see, flywheel is made of regular steel and it looks like a rarge flat and really havy disk on manual transmissions, and on automatics, which yours is, its called a flex plate, its thin and light but it has a heavy and bulky torqe converter bolted to it. Anyways in both cases there is a high carbor ring gear attached on the outside of the disk, it is very hard metal. Usually the gear on the started is much softer and it wears out much faster. Now if your flywheel ring gear has chipped or broken teeth on it in one spot, then it will have good teth on the other side. so picture this: starter gear is about one to two inches in deameter and has about 10 teeth or so, and ring gear is about 15 to 18 inches in diameter and has over 100 teeth. Its impossible to damage all teeth on the flywheel ring gear. So try this: if the starter does not turn the engine over then follow theese steps:
    1) apply e-brake put a brick or something on both sides of the tire so the car won't roll.
    2) Open the hood and as you are facing the engine on your left side find the belt and underdrive pulley: its the largest pulley on the engine, it would be on the bottow, and right above oil pan in the center of the engine. It will have a big bolt righ in the senter, most likely 21mm socket.
    3) turn ignition on, stap on brakes and shift into neutral gear without trying to start it. Make sure you turn ignition off and leave it in neutral every time you repeat step 4.
    4) take a big wrench and turn the engine over by hand about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn, then take the wrench and socket out and try to start the car.
    5) if the starter doesn't turn engine over then keep repeating step 4 untill you would be able to start the car. If you tried step 4 more then four to six times and starter did not engage and did not turn the engine over on its own then its not your flywheel, and its probably your starter. In this case I would go to a different mechanic.
    Ok if the starter does enagage and the engine turns over after you tried step 4 then its still 50/50 chance that your car did not get new starter or your flywheel is bad. I would take it to a different mechanic and do not tell them that you just got new starter and see what they say.
    Please let me know if I this was helpful to you?
  • Thanks for sharing your knowledge and replying to my post. The noise is, actually, a swishing sound. Most likely, it was not the starter that created the damage. I assumed it was the starter and instructed the shop to replace the starter. The car is now at the shop. They called me and said that there were at least five teeth on the flywheel that were broken (that they could visibly see). Would that explain why the engine occaisonally the starter keeps landing right on the bad area of the fly wheel. This has been an on going problem for about six months. When it first started it was a whining sound. Now it has become a much quite like a swish. I am sort of at the mercy of the shop mechanic now.
  • Yeah it sounds about right. If broken teeth on flywheel will end up right where the starter engages then it will just make loud electric motor noise, and will not turn the engine over. Its just hard to believe that your flywheel teeth broke. I gues it can happen. If you trust your mechanic then go ahead and get that flywheel changed. Yeah its a lot of work to get the flywheel out. If they say that they can see broken teeth, can they show it to you so you could see it for yourself?
    Just a litle advice: iIf you will need any mazda parts, don't buy them from mazda dealer, but instead go to or then click on parts catalog and order it directly from the same place your mazda dealer is geting same parts from, but ist gonna be cheaper this way. And if you can't find something then there is a phone number on their site and you can call them, ask them for part number for what you are looking for and then go back to parts catalog and search for that part number.
  • Thanks for the info. Got my car in the shop - especially after reading your last post. Expensive quote by the Mazda folks - hopes it takes care of everything. Thanks for taking the time to respond.
  • Just bought a Millenia 96' with trans problem. The shifter is not in the correct position. Park is reverse but the car will not go in reverse, R in Nutreal and so on. Will not move to the 1 position. The car is the S type and I want to know two things.
    1: Is this just an adjustment problem and what needs to be adjusted.
    2: If I have to replace the trans is there a big difference between the S and L model trans. How much difference does the VIN make in the trans.
    Basically what trans options I have to install in the car. Thanks in advance for any help given.
  • I've owned my Millenia S for approximately 7 years. It seems since 2005 I have problem after problem with my Mazda. It only has 125k miles on it and I am ready to blow it up !! :mad: I've had the radiator replaced, spark plug wires, tension pulley replaced, sensor after sensor; I've had issues with the TCS light, check engine light, fuses on the dash going out, the sunroof is off track; the BOSE radio went out, and now, it smokes in the morning when I start it up. I drive about a mile, and it will be smoking from under the hood. It doesn't do this in the afternoon. Also, if I drive too long, the TCS light will come on and the car will start jerking. I want to pass this vehicle on to my daughter to drive back and forth to school, which is about 2 miles but I don't trust the car. HELP !!!
  • meleniamelenia Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    I got 1999 Mellinia. I got shifting cable broken while I put new starter in. Cable joint linkage broke off. I spent 2 hours to pull a whole cable assembly out from Junkyard. Is any body have a better way to put this cable in? Or ? please help :confuse:
  • well these cars are well put together I think. I have a 2000 mazda 626 which is way sportier than the millenia anyway but it ran hot for the longest time and it would go well up in the Hot zone and any other car would have blown head gaskets etc so I can only say good things when it comes to these cars even though we spend money and complain they are still great cars and were built to last but with ANY car you have to do things here and there to keep them in order.. But I love mine and would have it fixed if anything because we dont want those payments huh lol
  • take it to an autozone or advanced auto they do diag for free if check engine is on
  • please email me how to do this procedure lol [email protected]

  • bbarons1bbarons1 Posts: 1
    Just wondering about this one, I know the code is for EGR valve, my friend took this off and soaked it in cleaner but the check engine light came back on shortly after being reset. The exhaust smells a little worse than other vehicles, does that mean it's most likely a catalytic converter? How many are even on this vehicle? The vehicle seems to run fine but would like to correct the problem if it's not too expensive.
  • I just purchased a 2001 Mazda Millenium V6. with 100,000 miles. It ran good when purchased. Last week I began hearing heavy tapping noise coming from motor when I started the car. When I excellerate the tapping noice would go away or quiet at times. Other times the tapping would get worse. It has got to a point I cannot drive the car because of fear I will do permanent damage to the motor. Has anyone experienced this problem or have an idea of the what the issue could be?
  • krumtxkrumtx Posts: 5
    the 0170/73 are common. you have a couple of vacuum leaks. there are 3 actual "tees" and a bunch of "Y"s that connect about 21 feet of vacuum line. one or more of the tees are broke, and air is coming in. easy fix, but you gotta take off the whole intake to get to them rascals. lotsa labor, lotsa stuff has to come off. btdt. we have 2 99s'. if you cannot do the work yourself, the car will eat your lunch. get rid of it.

    p0303 is misfire on #3 cyl. most likely the coil is bad. the rt bank(rear) coils get way more heat than the fronts. and #3 is the middle one back there. also, because of the intense labor to get to the plugs, lotsa places you take the car to will charge you for the plug change, but never do it, because it takes a couple hours to get to them suckers. when i do it, i make sure i got new plugs, and i take a known good set of coils and replace them. you can switch the coils from the back to the front, because the front ones will outlast the rears. and if someone says to switch #3 coil with another and see if the miss follows, has NEVER done this job on a 2.3.

    p0431 is your post cat 02 sensor telling you the cat is dying. that, along with 1173(heated o2 sensor, same bank) tells me somehow you fubar'd the cat. you need to take care of the fuel problem, because if fuel fubar'd the sensor and the cat, if you just put another one on, it will kill them, too
  • krumtxkrumtx Posts: 5
    what motor do you have? the 2.5 has hydraulic lifters, and if they are stuck, they will make a racket. also, if the timing belt tensioner is bad, it will make a sound very much like a bad lifter, and the sound goes away when the motor is revved. the 2.3 has solid lash adjusters, so if they were bad, you would have noise all the time. however, the tensioner can make a lifter noise on the 2.3, too. if the knock is coming from deep inside the motor, you got BIIIIG problems
  • krumtxkrumtx Posts: 5
    most common is the motor is gummed up. you can take it out and clean it. next is the relay, it can go bad. to remove the motor, you pull the lower panel under the turn signal switch. you can then see the motor. it is held in by 4 screws, but 2 of them are covered by the panel right next to the one removed. i make 2 holes in the panel to access the screws, pull the motor, take it apart, clean, regrease, reinstall, and hope
  • Almost a year ago I posted about a grinding noise when I started my Millenia S.
    Had starter, flywheel, another starter, installed by my local mechanics. Finally,
    I talked with a Mazda mechanic and he said that he would recommend an OE Mazda starter. I did, and the problem seems to be fixed.
    I also get only OE Mazda brake pads since they do not shed an excessive amount of brake dust.
  • See my recent post about my starter problem being solved. About the flywheel,
    I had mine replaced (there were several teeth broken off) at a local, reputable,
    transmission shop.(Not AAMCO) Cost: $600. A dealer will charge in the range of $1700.
  • 2002 mazda millenia 2.5L base model got loud engine noise after start up or idling. the noise seems to almost dissappear or much less noticable when rpm above 2000rpm. Check engine light on with code 0300, 0350 and 0421. Changed all spark plugs recently. The local mechanics told me the noise seems from inside timing belt cover, front of oil pan, rear upper valve train and water pump. I read one post said bad timing belt tensioner could cause engine noise/knocking. Timing belt never replaced on this car. Can anyone kindly provide the advice or similar experience? Many thanks.
  • It seems I get the similar problems (post 4007). I just wonder if you have found the causes. Thanks.
  • Hello all.

    I have a 2002 P and the dealer and oil change shop have both told me that I have a leaking valve cover gasket. I guess this is the reason that I smell a burning smell after I drive for awhile. Is this a serious problem that needs immediate attention? Also, is this a difficult and expensive repair? Please note that I also need to replace my EGR valve(??) and would like to know if this is costly.

  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,437
    You have the 2.5, so neither repair should be too pricey. Shop around if you don't already have a regular mechanic.
  • I just got a 165000 Miles Millenia 2001.I took it to Auto for diagnose and the engine reads the below codes. Can a knowledgeable one give me some advices.

    The Engine runs fine expect the
  • I had this same noise and eventually timing belt sliped and engine died after replacing tensioner and new belt ran great.
  • Did you ever figure out what caused the tcs lights to come on and the car jerking? I am having the same problem. Brought it to a mechanic (not dealer) after $1500. He gave up and told me to go to the dealer. This is driving me crazy. I have to put the car in neutral and restart while driving. :cry: any help is greatly appreciated.
  • ristyristy Posts: 2
    I have the s type millenia 2002 model with 138000 miles on it, my problem is that the hand brake indicator and abs lights are on (got it this way!) and the TCS and TCS OFF lights are also on permanently, my cel is also on, any ideas?
    Pls any do-it-yourself approach will be appreciated....Thanks!
  • ristyristy Posts: 2
    I have the S type millenia 2002 model with 138k plus miles on it, could someone kindly tell me where the fuel filter and fuel pump is located. Thanks!
    Prompt responses will be highly appreciated as i need to check its present state ASAP.
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