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Mazda Millenia



  • To be more specific, fuel economy has not improved after replacing the knock sensor. I noticed worse gas mileage about week before the CEL came on, and fuel economy came back to normal after replacing the knock sensor.
  • I have a '01 P and would like to upgrade to the CD changer. Has anyone done this? It looks like a pretty easy process once you get the dash off.

    Any experiences or suggestions are appreciated.

    PS - Do the 626 changers fit? there are some reasonable on e-bay?
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    If this is a double din unit, and I think it is, you need to get a tool that inserts into small holes on the front of the unit to release it for removal. If the wiring is all there for it, it should be an easy trade out. cat=4429&type=19&dept=3944&path=0%3A3944%3A3947%3A442- 9
  • excuse my ignorance, but are saying it can be released without removing the entire center console cover or were you assuming that?

    One thing that is nice about the Mill is the lack of visible fasteners, but that also makes it a bit more of a challenge to take apart without breaking a clip or something.

    btw-thanks for the link to the tool.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639

    Quote: "It looks like a pretty easy process once you get the dash off. "

    lead me to believe you had already figured out how to remove the escutcheon. I referred only to the sound unit itself as being a din unit and requiring the special tool. I have not attempted to remove the escutcheon and don't plan to. But I have removed din type sound units and you can easily cause damage if you try to remove one without that tool.

    Aftermarket woodgrain kits are sold for Millenias, so it must be relatively easy to remove the trim. It is most likely snapped into place. The underdash cover below the glovebox is held in place with snaps plus I think one wingnut, and simply pulls down to remove.
  • I have a 99 MM Base. Bought it new. Had a few trouble free years, but now that the mileage is getting up there "75K" Problems are arising.

    I've always had the thump sound when going over minor bumps or going into a driveway, Always struggeled with the Engine light, now its on full time. (I gave up on it). I spent $600 on the timing belt and brakes. Which is ok, because I did have 75K of trouble free miles on it.

    Now though, the heater won't heat up until I'm 10-15 minutes into my commute. Good thing I have the heated seats. At least my tush is warm. The defroster is useless during this time as well.

    Anybody else experiencing this?
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I have no experience with that with my MM. OTOH mine is almost new.

    But it sounds like a good possibility of a partially clogged heater core, or possibly the thermostat. If your temperature gauge is taking a long time to reach normal, the latter would be more likely.

    I would think you are due for a cooling system cleaning if you have not had it done in 75000 miles.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    Check your coolant level first. If it is just below minimum, it won't get to the heater core for a while. Top it off and see if the heat comes on sooner. Then, of course, watch the coolant level - if it drops you obviuosly have a problem with the cooling system. Hope this helps,
  • Hello every one I am a first timer and would like some secondary opinions here. I have an 02 Millenia S which I bought new for my wife 4 days after our best friends traded in there 96 "S" for a new 2002 "S". From the start we have had rattles and check engine light problems (3 sensors). Rattles that kept re-occuring or that the dealership "couldn't duplicate". They replaced speakers added foam replaced panels...but the rattles keep popping up. We also dealt with a "clunk" along with a shimmy or vibration at speeds over 60mph in the rear that has been looked at at least six times by two different dealerships...finaly after the car has 45,000 miles they tell me that the rear shock is bad. New still vibrates and shimmys...the dealership tells me that i have 3 bent rims? I'm asking why...I'm told that it's common...? I think that maybe the shock had something to do with it or maybe even defective wheels..I'm not going to accept that manufactures don't have to warrany an item that can't handle everyday driving. I could understand if it were just one rim but 3, lets get real. Hey here is an idea maybe the rims have been bent since day one and that is the reason for all of the rattle. Oh yeah and factory tires that are SHOT after 30,000 miles of interstate driving...that's not acceptable.

    My friends who have the same car wit about the same mileage (45,000-50,000) have said as well that their 1996 Millenia was twice the car. What gives...the few miles this car actually ran good WE LOVE IT! We honestly don't know what we are going to buy next, but after dealing with Mazda service you can be sure that it won't be a mazda.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I'd take it to an independent shop for the purpose of having it checked for collision damage. There is no logical way to have all that damage otherwise unless you run it hard over badly potholed roads, which you have not indicated.

    If you were sold a wreck as new, you can take legal action against the dealer who sold it to you.

    Wheels don't bend themselves, and MM's are usually extremely rattle free.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I have to agree with fwatson on this. I have an '02 S, grant it I do not have as many miles on mine, and I have not heard one rattle out of mine. If you want too you can go to and they will give you one free check, or so they say, and you can see if it has been in an accident.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    My 01'S with about 37K miles has no rattles at all. Highway ride is excellent & quiet (just came back from 180 mile trip today, the thing FLIES... and gets great mileage on the highway, too).
    I think you should try different dealer.
    Good luck.
  • I agree with the above opinions: it is possible that the car has been in an accident (especially rear end). I had a few cars with rebuilt titles in the past, and I know how annoying the rattling can be on wrecked cars. One of my cars with "rebuilt title" had weird rattling, and no auto mechanic or body shop specialist was able to determine the cause of the rattling. I believe that wrecked cars may have some body damages that are absolutely invisible to auto mechanics. I do not want to disappoint you, but sometimes some dealers go through all kinds of steps to clean an accident history. I recommend you to take the car to body shop and ask them to check for any suspicious looks of body parts. Also go through complete history of that particular car, and if you find any proof that the car has been in an accident - return it to the dealer for full refund, or he can be in a deep trouble. Unfortunately there are some cases when dealers buy wrecked (even new, damaged during transportation) cars, repair and resell them. Legally they should notify the buyer that the car has been wrecked and repaired, sometimes even provide a written disclosure.
  • Just turned over 60k today. Anyone know what maintenance NEEDS to be done at 60k by a mechanic? Anything else I will just do on my own. I know the timing belt is good to 105k, so that isn't a worry. Also, I know some of you have had the climate control blower fan bearing act up. Is this something I can do on my own or does it require too much "digging" thru the engine compartment?
  • I also had a problem with blower noise in my car (01P)and I was able to get rid of it by removing the cabin filters located under the dash passenger side. Remove the plastic kick panel cover, un screw a 13mm nut to remove the filters. Un plug motor connector next to the filters (it is the circular thing to the right). Then removing the fan motor and blower by unscrewing three phillips screws at the bottom of the motor . The motor just slides down and out. There was a built up collection of leaf particles and pine needles in the blower fan blades. After cleaning the fan and blowing out the filters with compressed air all was as quiet as new.
  • Went in over the weekend to have the oil changed and inspect for anything obvious that needed to be done at 60k. The serpentine belt was cracked and the transmission fluid was getting dirty. Had them replace the belt and flush the fluid. It was about 80 bucks for each. I replaced the air filter myself also. Alignment was also off, but that is expected driving in Cleveland in the winter. Potholes the size of Texas all over the place. Total bill for all was just over 200 bucks. Shocking when I went in hoping for a nice 12.99 oil change. All said, the car is running great and no real problems up until now except for a bad wheel bearing.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I would assume that you are going to have a mechanic change your spark plugs? Or do you feel brave enough to have a go at it yourself? I thought that you said you have an S. If I am mistaken and you have a P then the spark plugs are no big deal. By the way are you going to change your own fuel filter?
  • I have a P model. Work last week was done at a tire place, figured they couldnt mess up the serpentine and tranny flush. Still I dont think I am going to fool around with the spark plugs and fuel filter. I am going to take it to a reliable machanic for the tune up, spark plugs, etc. The stupid CEL came on again today. Really rough idle, rpm's drop to about 500. Feels like it isnt getting enough gas. Happened last week but cleared the same day. Going to go to AutoZone today to see if they can give me the code. Maybe this is related to a fuel filter, maybe not. Also, noticed today that when starting up in the morning in the cold, the fist maybe minute of driving I got a horrific high pitched squeal when I hit the gas. Not sure what this is. Could it be related to the tranny flush? Getting real fed up right now. Any ideas from you guys?
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Quote "Also, noticed today that when starting up in the morning in the cold, the fist maybe minute of driving I got a horrific high pitched squeal when I hit the gas.

    Hard to say without hearing it, but it sounds more like the belt.
  • Went to AutoZone. They found code P1409 on their machine. Anyone have a list of what this code means? Thanks.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    The reader Autozone used on my car spelled out what the problem was, but here is the result of a search for your code online.

    Quote "P1409 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit Malfunction (Ford, Mazda)"

    From this site:

    That seems to be confirmed by this one:

    Quote "P1409 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit"

  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    The squeal sound is most likely a loose belt.

    As far as the code goes fwatson may be right but I will have to get back to you later on what the manual says because I do not have it in front of me at the moment.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    The '02 service manaul does not list a 1409 code so Mazda must have changed numbers or the service manual does not list all the code numbers. Sorry.
  • The tip regarding the belt adjustment is most likely the cause. I had a squeal coming from a bad belt adjustment pulley. The part was $68 from the dealer. There are two of the pulleys - one for each accessory belt. It could also be a noisy timing belt pulley.
  • I am considering buying a pre-owned 2000 Millenia Premium. I found one with just under 24K miles. Looks clean inside and out. Has 4 Seasons Package, traction control, leather interior, etc.. Asking price is $12,995, which seems like a very fair price for this car. Vehicle was a trade-in at a local Toyota dealer 3-4 months ago, and the price has slowly dropped fom $15,990 to the current $12,995. I've always been a fan of Mazda, having owned '85 and '98 626's. I'm looking for info...both good and bad...on the 2000 MM. Anybody have an opinion they'd like to share on this car?
  • freebirdfreebird Posts: 77
    I owned a '95 "L" model. It was a good, dependable car for 105,000 miles. I will not own another because it was really high on insurance, parts are expensive, and it went through CV boots every 30,000 miles. It was also under-powered. Maintenance items, like the timing belt are really expensive, labor-wise - $450 as compared to $220 for my V6 Toyota.

    The car that you are looking at will have a lot of luxuries that you will not find in other $12,000 cars. I would also get a quote on insurance too.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Obviously there are different situations. But insurance on my 2001 P is less than the same insurance was on my 1995 Oldsmobile when I carried full coverage on it. I checked that out before buying. I also checked on Camry and Maxima. There was no insurance advantage for me for a Camry as compared to my MM.
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    Turns out the problem was very simple. The solution to the noise was to tighten the serpentine belt and the idle was rough due to a dirty throttle body. Total cost was $25 bucks. Runs as good as the day I bought it. Thanks for all your help on the codes.
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    Mike, I have a 99 P, which is the same exact car as the 2000. I bought mine last January with 34K for $13g. Since then I have it up to 61K miles and the only real repair was a bad front wheel bearing, which was $130 bucks. Other than that I changed the tires, replaced the serpentine belt, and had it aligned a couple of times. The car is definitely no speed-racer off the line, but the only good that does is get you tickets. The car rides exceptionally smooth and is very stable at high speeds (80+). Ask anyone on here how much fun it is when you get up around 90-100. Feels just like you are only going 50 mph. The timing belt does not have to be replaced until 105K, despite what you may hear. I am a 23 year old single male and I pay about $1100 a year in insurance, which is no more than most other cars (Alero, Grand Am, etc). The 95 Millenia Freebird is talking about had a bunch of problems, but were all resolved by 96 or 97. Search thru past posts on this board and you will see many others who love their Millenia. Hope this helps. Let us know what you end up doing.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    The '98 626 you owned had the same engine that the 2000 P has, provided you had the 6 cylinder in it. So if you liked that engine you should be happy with it in the MM. The only difference between the two cars is that your 626 had more room in it. The MM will by far give you a better ride with more luxary. As a side note I still have my '85 626 and plan on keeping it because at 30 mpg in town it is tough to give up at these gas prices. Plus just like fwatson has said in the past you do not want to take your MM to the shopping mall to let some yahoo with an suv beat the heck out of it with their door.
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