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Mazda Millenia



  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I hadn't noticed the wheels being similar (or identical) on all the new model. The MPV for my wife, and RX-8 to ease me into old age ;-) are the only two I have paid attention. But I am really not in the market for any of them while my MM is still like a new one.

    But if I was interested in chrome wheels as you seem to be, I'd check out custom wheels from various sources. You can get any size and style you might want, and they would not look like the ones on the other Mazdas. Probably a lot cheaper than from the friendly authorized dealer.
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    I have a 2001 MMS with 7k miles. I run my climate control on auto. I live in NJ. When it is cold out, even though the from defroster is on, the "picture" on the climate control area shows air coming out at the feet. Yet there is not very much air coming out, but there is plenty of air coming out of each dash-level vent located closet to the doors. There is no air coming out of the center dash vents. Is it normal for air to come out the dash level vents when the climate control system indicates "heat" from down by the floorboard? Or is something wrong with the direction of the airflow?
  • juliziojulizio Posts: 18
    I took my 2000 MME to Carmax a few months ago. We're growing out of the MME and need a van, we're looking at the 04 Quest.

    That said, I was offered $8,200 for mine. At the time, it had 57,000 miles on it. The big problem was that the passenger rear door was repainted due to a small dent. The appraiser said that they wouldn't sell it on their lot and would wholesale it at auction.

    KBB trade-in at the time was between fair and good, $10,500 - $11,800. That's close but not the exact figures.

    I still have the car and plan on trying to sell it privately for $12,500.

    I hate to see it go, but two car seats in the back seat are tight!!
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    I know that the 16" mpv wheels have the same offset as the 16" protege/5 wheels (which come in chrome), not sure what else they fit.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    OK, I had to run to town this morning, so I checked this out. Mine is an "01 P.

    With the system on "Auto", I pressed the Front Defrost button and here is the result. The "picture" immediately changed from the arrow blowing at the driver/passenger to an icon of the windshield with air blowing up onto it (the person icon was still there). At the same time, the air began blowing from the vents on top of the dash onto the windshield, the floor vents and middle dash vents shut off, and the dash vents next to both doors continued to operate.

    I pressed the switch that controls outside/recirculate and that made no difference. Looks like yours is not operating properly.
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    Actually fwatson, mine is operating just as you described. When operating in "defrost" mode only, your dash vents near the door were blowing, just like mine. When I am in "auto" this time of year, both the defrost icon and the "arrows to the feet" icon, heat setting, are running. I just felt as if not enough air was blowing on the floor to warm my feet, and too much air was blowing out of the dash vents near the doors. But it does sound like mine is operating as yours.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    One more thing. When I pressed the defrost button, the light went out on the "Auto" knob. Also I had no arrow pointing at the feet at that point. That might vary depending on conditions though. I am in Florida where the temperature was about 60 when I did the test.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    The vents next too the doors should blow when the defroster is on so that it can clear your side windows also. Mazda probable thinks that it is more important for you to be able to see out your windows as opposed to keeping your feet warm. I don't see why, but they do (joking). It sounds like the defroster overides the other mode settings. I have not tested this but what is being said sounds correct to me.
  • I have seen many postings about the ease of bending the mazda S rims. I have to inflate my tire once a week to keep pressure in it. I have taken my S to several tire places including a dealership and they tell me there's not a leak and nothing seems to be wrong. Could my rim be bent and me not know it?? Just wondering. Thanks!
  • I am considering a 2001 Millenia Sedan (not S version) w/20k miles and in excellent condition being offered retail via GM dealership. Have spoken w/prev. owner and obtained maint. history and background, and all checks out. Dealer is including a GM 3yr/36k mi. bumper to bumper warranty starting w/purchase date. Am pleased with the performance and cond. of vehicle but have never previously owned Mazda and am unfamiliar with. Consumer Reports lists it as recommended and the tenative agreed upon price of $14k (incl. warranty) is well within Kelly Blue Book posting. Primary concern is that this model, orig. the 929, was discontinued in 2002. Any suggestions or offerings regarding this vehicle would be appreciated. Thanking all in advance.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I have the exact model you are looking at, a 2001 P. Mine now has 14000 troublefree miles on it except for the knock sensor which was replaced under warranty.

    My experience causes me to feel that with it being in "excellent" condition you are getting an fine car. They are also offering a very good warranty, because the factory warranty expires at 3 years or 39000 miles. If you like it as well as I do mine, you can't go wrong. Be sure you do a good test drive though, because there are some here that complain the P is low on power. Personally I consider that rubbish, but you should decide for yourself.
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    Take it man. That is a good deal, especially with the GM warranty included. Any issues that might come up (o2, knock sensor) will be replaced under warranty. The car has great reliability, as I think anyone in this forum would attest to. Mazdas in general are well-built cars. The car is not quick off the line, but it gets the job done. Take it for a 30 or 45 minute test drive on both highway and city. You will notice it is very quiet and stable at high speeds. You may notice a rough transmission shift from a rolling stop. This is normal on all MM's and you will get the right "pedal-touch" after a little bit of driving. Keep us updated.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    I'd definitely recommend it.
    Factory warranty is 3 years / 50K miles.
    Make sure tires are in good condition and not underinflated (common mistake in this fairly heavy - solid! - vehicle) which can cause premature tire wear.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I just checked my warranty booklet, and the basic warranty IS 36 month 50000 miles.
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Posts: 36
    Alright, what I am doing wrong?? I have a 2001 MMS with 7500 miles. This morning I pull away from a stop sign, proceed up an overpass, and decide to pass a tractor-trailer to get up and over the overpass quicker before the road becomes a single lane. So at about 20 mph I mash the accelerator to the floor. I might as well have put the car in park. I feel nothing. No rapid acceleration, no pulling g's and being driven into the rear of my seat, nothing. The rpm needle reflects high revs, but the car is not moving. Finally the car begins to accelerate, and I barely pass this lumbering truck. What is going on here? Is this the "s" in supercharged? My 1983 280z takes off faster than this. I am beside myself. Absolutely zero low-end. My experience alone? Is something wrong with my car? I do accelerate quickly onto on-ramps and such, but when I need to go from 20 mph to 60 or 70 quickly, nothing.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    I think that most people here have complained about the low end acceleration of the MM. As a little bit of an experiment you might want to try and turn off your Traction Control System the next time you try to pass someone and see if that makes a difference.
  • Quick note to update my prev. posting regarding the 2001 Millenia P w/20k mi.I have been considering. Was able to keep car for 2 days to try out and was reasonably impressed. Completed deal w/dealership at 13k purchase price with 3yr/36k mi GM warranty incl. Factory warranty due to expire soon so timing was good. Knock sensor already replaced under warranty and had tires & pressure checked out (thanks tomekk). Appreciate input from all who participated to my inquiry. Was informnative and helpful. Thanks Much
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    You definitely need to have it checked out - is this something you can reproduce at will?

    You did not have the Hold (gear) button depressed, did you?

    I can't say that my '01 MM S is a Porsche, but acceleration is not lacking and more than decent. It'll downshitf and GO when you mash the pedal on the right ... that's the one you pushed on, correct? :-) just kidding

    Last weekend I had it up to 110 on Mass Pike (love those new tires - sooooo smooth).

  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    Congrats and enjoy your new toy!
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Quote tomekk "Last weekend I had it up to 110 on Mass Pike (love those new tires - sooooo smooth)."

    I have given a lot of thought to replacemant tires, although that is a long way into the future from the look of my OEM's.

    What tire did you end up with that you seem so enthusiastic about? What speed rating on them?
  • heybradyheybrady Posts: 75
    Fwatson, you have the P model right? When I replaced mine I got some Continental Contitrac (or whatever they are called) in the same size as OEM. H rated to 121mph I think. I like them alot. Very quiet and smooth.

    Tomekk, do you have radar detector or something? or just some balls to be going 110. seems like you post 100+ speeds frequently. haha.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Continental has a (I think) CH95 that looks good in tests, and they run well under $100 each as compared to the Michelin OEM's at $130 or more.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    I did stick to OEM Dunlops - SP5000 215/50-17 VR if I remember correctly. Reasons for this:
     - VERY durable sidewalls comapred with Michelins, those Dunlps take the pothole licking and keep on ticking
     - pretty good in snow
     - quiet
     - $109 @ tirerack, dealer quoted $267 per (!!!)

    I used to have Nissan Stanza that came with Bridgestones, replaced them due to wear with Contitouring CH95. Theye were OK, but I liked the Bridgestones better. The Contis were good in the wet/snow, but had kind of strange, heavy feel and - despite being fairly quiet (on par with the Bridgestones) they made rather loud thumping noise over bumps.

    The worst tires in the wet - by far - were Goodyear Eagle GAs on Passat GLX. Awful in the snow, in rain they felt "greasy". Not recommended.

    And Michelines... well, one word: overpriced!

    Hope this helps,
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    Oh, one more thing: why was I enthusiastic about those new tires? My old ones were pretty worn and noisy - left rear was making noise due to uneven wear (no alignment since new...), so 4 wheel alignment + 4 new tires + 4 wheel high-speed balancing = really smooth, quiet ride.
  • steevo2steevo2 Posts: 33
    Just wanted to post some info that might help someone. On my 97 Mil-S, at about 82,500 miles, I got a check engine light. AutoZone read the code as P0420 Catalytic Effenciency Below Threshold. So, I take it to the Mazda dealer for a more complete ($70) diagnosis using the diagnostic plug under the hood instead of under the dash (better?). They get the same code and say it is set by the rear bank 1 O2 sensor. They recommend replacing that ($275) and if it still sets the code, replace the catalytic converter. ($$-I don't want to know) My converter is just out of warranty (8/80,000 on Millenia cat).

    Stay with me ... I'm almost to my point. As an afterthought, the Mazda tech says, oh by the way, your battery is weak at only 375 amps and Mazda recommends 575.

    I did a little research and found that the Millenia can set an O2 code (or others) when there is low battery output. I hope this is true. I replaced the battery today. The check engine light is out. Mazda tech said if O2 sensor is bad it should reset the code in 'a few' starts.

    Better to replace a battery than an O2 sensor and the catalytic converter. I'm betting that the O2 sensor is OK since I've seen quotes from some Mazda techs that a high percentage of the O2 sensors that they replace are actually good. Watch this space for results of my theory.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    Wow. That's a good one if it checks out...
  • steevo2steevo2 Posts: 33
    Well, so far so good. After 10 or so starts/trips, still no Check Engine Light. I'll report back tomorrow night. Car is running great.
  • erinsquarederinsquared Posts: 178
    I like it! After having both my O2 sensors replaced (out of my pocket) because of the Check Engine light and the catalytic converter (dealer replaced), I soon had a battery failure which I replaced. Perhaps there is merit to the theory - anyone else have this experience? If this is the case, perhaps the alternator is underrated and unable to maintain proper voltage levels when facing charging a bad battery. Prolonged drops in system voltages could definitely cause false sensor readings. Did not help me, but hopefully this will help the next guy because those parts are not cheap; I spent over $500 just for R&R of the O2 sensors.
  • Is there a general pattern of mileage or years of service? erinsquared, when did yours fail?
  • steevo2steevo2 Posts: 33
    Everything is still OK. CEL is out and my 97 Mil-S is running great. Looks like a low battery may indeed trigger check engine light codes to be set. I sold my Millenia today to a fine gentleman and I will refer him to this board for great information. Thank you all for your input.
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