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Oldsmobile Silhouette



  • brumpfbrumpf Posts: 14
    101,000 and my fuel gage is bouncing all over the place. Has anyone serviced the fuel gage or knows what the problem is?
  • i have a 2000 Sil with 113k and just started haveing the same high pitch sound when accelerating. dies down when I let off the gas. Doesnt happen when the car first turns on, but shortly afterward. Did you find out what it was
  • i have a 2000 Sil with 113k and just started haveing the same high pitch sound when accelerating. dies down when I let off the gas. Doesnt happen when the car first turns on, but shortly afterward. Did you find out what it was?
  • hrjoehrjoe Posts: 2

    I'm interested in what you found out on your wiper motor. I have the same exact problem, as of this morning. Do I have to put a whole new motor in, or just some part? It's strange that it works at high speed only.

  • bob550kbob550k Posts: 148
    I had to argue with my tech to get him to just put in a new battery. It had a full charge, but strange things were happening.

    The new battery cured it.

    1999 Silo with 103,000 miles.

    For those who care, this car has good car with a few problems. It's held up very well, looks and runs excellent.
  • what does that mean on my wife's 1999 Oldsmobile Silhoutte?
  • I have a 2002 Olds Silhouette and the driver side power sliding door will not open with any of the three options to open it (remote, button on side, button on console). It sounds like it wants to open but it can't. When I disable the door, I can open and close it fine manually. If I open the door manually, then enable the door, I can close it fine with the button or remote. I have tried to reset it like it states in the manual with no luck. Any ideas why this is??
  • I had a similar problem with the same door. Using the power system, button, key fob, etc. the door would sometimes unlock and sometimes it would not. If it did not the door would not open even manually until you played with it for some time. The problem was the power lock actuator, cost about $150.00 for the part. The spring lost its spring and when you attempted to unlock the door the actuator would move the mechanism perhaps half way which blocked any manual attempt to unlock the door and until the spring finally pushed the mechanism all the way I was stuck with a locked door. If you are mechanically inclined you can replace the actuator yourself, I did. I believe the labor at the shop was going to be about $200.00. Solution was to repair it or never use the power assist for that door.
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    I just want to confirm that it is 5/8. I just got a 99 and went to change the oil but the plug is on so tight I can't get it off. It seems to be rounding out so it slips and I called it a day. I'll just take it somewhere to have the oil changed as well as a new plug.
  • Read my blog, there is too much going on to post it here, but I need to know if we should keep trying to fix this hunk of junk, or if I should get something different. :lemon:

    Highlights from my blog:
    We drove home, up the mountain again (45 minutes and 3'000 ft), with no problems. The next day it over heated faster than usual and there was liquid on the ground and all over the top of the engine. Looked like you poured milk on the engine and it boiled off. There was green coolant everywhere on the engine too.

    The main "tube" connecting the coolant tank to the engine had come loose and melted a hole in the side. The mechanic said he replaced all the tubes because they were leaking. Great job buddy! :mad:

    It took 3 days to get the $30 tube, but the day after we installed that, the van stalled on my on my way home, turning onto our street. I tried to start it and it wasn't turning. :confuse:

    My husband brought it home and looked at the oil ... THERE WAS WATER IN THE ENGINE!!! :sick:
    Dammit ... the oil looked like a cafe latte, a creamy coffee color, and it reached halfway up the oil dipstick. :lemon:

    What should I sell it for? There's a couple dents in the body, not bad, the brake light casing (the red plastic) is busted, the automatic side door won't open by itself, but it closes just fine, the passenger side window motor is out (may be just a fuse, I don't know), and the two auto unlock key chains need new batteries. NONE of these problems are our fault by the way!

    Lowest price quote I've found is $800, highest is $1000. Keep in mind, there are almost brand new snow tires on it now, and a set of almost new tires in the back, that counts for something, right?
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    Most likely fuel level sending unit. Very common problem on these vans.
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    Hopefully you have drained the oil to save the engine. If not the rear bearing are shot and you are looking at a new engine. Probably needs a lower intake gasket or a head gasket or two. How many miles? I would expect with normal mileage with no engine damage you could sell it for $700-$1000. If the engine is shot your looking at under $500.
  • bob550kbob550k Posts: 148
    So lets see if I've got this straight.

    You drove a 12 year old car that you got for free that is known to overheat up a mountain and it overheated. AND you're put out because it overheated when you drove it up a mountain knowing it has a problem with overheating and it overheated.

    That sure sounds like a lemon to me...


    It sounds like you cooked the motor so badly that the coolant just dumped into the crank case and it hydro locked. I'm sure it didn't have anything to do with driving it up a mountian with an overheating issue.

    I think I need to go outside and have a good scream about now.
  • luck2luck2 Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem. I took the motor off and pulled of the cover that the ciruit board is in. Seem the Diode came loose. I just went in and fixed that and it works on all speeds again. Just have some problems with the wiper adjustment
  • lalalandlalaland Posts: 9
    To answer you question, yes, dump it now while you can. I can promise you your repair will START at $1,000. I can also promise you that if you can get $800 on a 98 (I think thats what it is) you should run with it. I just finally (yay happy dance!) unloaded mine and the most anyone wanted to give me was $1200, and this was for a 2002 top of the line model in pristine condition. 2nd brand new intake manifold, alternator, battery, a/c compressor, brakes, etc.

    This car is a heating/cooling nightmare. Electrical too. Just take a look at all the service bulletins on it.
    Run run run! :lemon:
  • Hi, I'm having a problem with my liftgate-it should lock automatically when I close it but after this winter it's not working. What can I do to get it to lock? Thanks, Mark
  • We have a 2000 Silhouette with 100,100 miles. We took it to a dealer to have it checked out as we are going on vacation. We were told we need new head gaskets costing $2200. How can I verify that we need new gaskets? The person that called not the mechanic said we should think about a new vehicle. I just want to be sure about going ahead.

  • azuazu Posts: 84
    Did they tell you how they found this out? Did they do a pressure test, vacuum test? Is the van overheating or losing coolant? I think they want to sell you a car. I had a dealer do that to me once when I took my Grand Marquis in for a front end alignment. They told me front end was a wreck and would cost over 1K to fix. I told them they are full of it. Took it to Pep Boys and had alignment done with no other work done. I had no problems for 20K after that and I sold it.
  • Talked to the service tech. He said antifreeze was leaking at the rear head gasket. We had noticed a very slow loss of antifreeze. He said it was not serious yet but he could not say how long before it would be major. I decided to go ahead with the work. Thanks for your reply.

  • I had same problem. I also had too many others to list. GM, I believe is a great product. There are exceptions and this is theirs. My Silhouette, also 2000 has 140,000 miles. I have related to nearly every inquiry on this particular vehicle. Decline the work and sell it as is. Trust me.
  • jmeaselljmeasell Posts: 30
    My 2001 Silhouette has nearly 100K miles and recently the "service traction system" message appeared as did the ABS and "trac off" lights. My local mechanic cleared the ABS history code 1218 pump motor short but the problem reappeared. Anybody experience a similar issue? Also, the fuel gage is bouncing all over the place and I noted an earlier post suggesting a possible fuel level sending unit. Doesn't qualify for "cash for clunkers" but perhaps it's time... Thanks.
  • I have a DTC P0301 w/pending code P0405. Old. Silhouette. 2000
    model year. 3.4l E engine. Approx 140,000 mi. I have a series of
    questions related to this vehicle. With in previous 6 mos., 25 total
    miles added to distance traveled, and approx. 20 hrs. of engine time
    elapsed it has been through the ringer. Great looking inside and out.
    comfy and pleasant to operate. Just can't quite get it smoothed out.
    Several hours of actual troubleshooting invested. New lower intake
    man. gasket, new after market (not original equip.) fuel pump and fuel
    quantity sending unit, coolant flush, 2 oil changes, Lucas brand fuel
    system cleaner added to fuel, New OEM leads and plugs, New after
    market coil pack for 1 & 4 cylinder, air filter, thermostat, vacuum
    lines and fittings, used fuel pres. reg., used MAF sns., used TP sns.
    All installed used parts ops checked good. Pulse light check on
    injectors seemed good. What should be done from here?
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    Check wiring to the EGR value and if that is ok change the EGR value.
  • jmeaselljmeasell Posts: 30
    Have received an estimate to address the "service traction system" and ABS and "trac off" lights. Need to replace ABS modular assembly and traction control pump for approx. $4K. Don't think the car is worth that much. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks.
  • Thanks for the direction. Checked the wiring to EGR valve. ops checked good. Swapped EGR with operational valve and the problem duplicated. I no longer get DTC p0405. I do still have a p0301. Replaced power circuit ground cables and ohm checked the grounds to PCM. All checked good.I replaced the air filter again with different manufacturer. Cleaned the MAF sensor. Seemed to have accumulated more glaze than normal over short period of time. I replaced the fuel pressure sensor when the fuel pump was replaced. I used the original seal for the pump. I had difficulties installing the seal that was provided with new pump. Currently I have oil at the throttle body valve and noticed oil at the vent tube that crosses over the rear of engine that vents the valve covers. Although the exhaust is visibly normal in color and doesn't smell of burning oil. Also the pcv was installed when I did the intake manifold, and has a good "rattle" to it. The one thing I have not checked is converter failure. I also had a little bit more of a resistance on the EVAP purge valve control. I suppose I could also have a faulty fuel injector at the #1 location due to current misfire. Any additional feed back is well appreciated.
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    Swap the injector with another one. If the misfire moves then that injector is bad. The problem with the oil could be a back pressure problem and could be the cat converter.
  • Hi. So I replaced the #1 fuel injector. Did not solve the problem. Still getting DTC P0301. I did take a compression test and results were as follows: #1 cylinder 20lbs, #2 cylinder 135lbs, #3 cylinder 151lbs, #4 cylinder 150lbs, #5 cylinder 150lbs, #6 cylinder 145lbs.

    Knowing that the #1 cylinder was low when conventional compression test was administered I proceeded with a differential compression test. I set the piston to TDC on the compression stroke and regulated 90 psi into the cylinder. The cylinder held every bit of 90 psi. I rotated the crank to achieve TDC of the exhaust stroke and again regulated 90 psi into the cylinder. And again the cylinder held all of 90 psi.

    Back to the conventional method. The very first time I cranked the engine and started building pressure the gauge barely flickered. Then I ran through the procedures again. 20 psi. On the third consecutive test on the #1 cylinder it held pressure. All the way to 120 psi. So I tested it again. 20 psi. And again 20 psi. I did this 6 times consecutively and got the same, 20 psi. On the 9Th try the cylinder held 120 psi. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  • CapeCodCapeCod Posts: 117
    1998 OLds Silhouette 110,000 miles
    For the 2nd year in a row the A/C has failed.
    Last year a recharge lasted more than 2 months ....
    this year the recharge lasted about 5-6 weeks...
    Same shop decided this year the problem was a 'core' leak...
    cost to repair $1000 ????
    What are the most common A/C issues with Silhouette ???
    I figured a line leak going to the rear unit?
    Core leak seemed a stretch as it wasn't 'found' last year.
    Am I just being paranoid... :surprise:
  • A good friend has a '99 Olds Silhouette van. He has had it for about 5 years and it has been relatively trouble free, although he did replace the transmission about 2 years ago. He says it has been one of the best vehicles his family ever had, and he says he gets respectable gas mileage from it. He was here today and we changed the oil. He told me that the service engine light was on for the last few days but when he got here this morning, it had gone out. Nevertheless, I scanned the van with my OBD2 and got a code PO101. The book says this about it-"Mass or Volume Circuit Range Performance Problem". Could someone please translate the meaning of this code for me and perhaps suggest a course of repair action, if one is called for? Thanks a bunch.
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