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BMW 5-Series Sedans



  • I think that is the problem, the computer is generating two different messages. one to add oil (oil is at the appropriate level) and the other is low oil pressure. BMW service has replaced two sensors (sending and receiving), but the problem persists. Assuming that was done correctly, any other ideas that would create an error message of that nature?
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    Well, the oil pump could just be bad, and not the sensor. Or, if you are really driving hard, all the oil is pooling outside of the oil pickup and starving it on a really high-g turn. Or, the line to the sensor is plugged with crud (shouldn't happen, but you never know). The OBD connector probably can provide the oil pressure reading, which may be a good place to start, or for test purposes, install a calibrated meter to verify what the pressure really is.
  • Can someone offer advice? My car is at the dealer and was informed that I need to change my front brakes and front left caliper (causing vibration at any speed). Total cost is around $1500! I have an 2003 E39 with 102K miles. I know this is an expensive service, but is this usually this high? Can I only change the left caliper instead of both as dealer is recommending?
  • That's why they say BMW stands for "Bring my wallet"
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 18,647
    Can someone offer advice?

    Do not go to the dealer for service! There are good independent BMW repair shops all over America that will do good work on your car for a fraction of dealer rates.

    Go to to find one near you.
    There's no way I could afford to run an old E39 paying dealer repair costs. They're sturdy cars but repairs aren't cheap.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • Thanks andys120!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    A few points:

    - Why are they recommending the caliper? The only reason I can think of is if it is leaking or if you've failed to have the brake fluid flushed every 24 months and rust had formed on the inner side of the piston.

    - Servicing the brakes (i.e. new pads, rotors and sensors) on the E39 is one of the easiest brake jobs on the planet to perform.

    - New pads, rotors and sensors shouldn't run more than $150 per axle for premium quality parts, and depending upon where you buy them, I've seen that price down near $100.

    - As has already been mentioned, lose the dealer and find yourself a good independent, errr, that is if you aren't inclined to do the job yourself (see my second point).

    Keep us posted.

    Best regards,
  • the dealer says he will make it good, but still no answers as to what the real problem is... the car is not driven hard, but the indicator light tends to come on when the car is braked to a stop... I suppose the g-force of the stop could pull any 'pooled' oil away from the pump and or sensors. But I would think that would be a conditioni in all cars. I think all sensors are new at this point, but the condition persists. We'l see what the developments are with Wednesday's appt. Dealer has been great, but we are both losing our patience! Thanks of the ideas, I'll pass them on.
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    Unless your oil level is quite low, it takes a lot of high-G maneuvers to starve the engine of oil. Race cars often use a dry sump oil system to preclude that from happening, and it is a rare street car that uses that technology or needs it. The low oil pressure sensor could be blocked up with crud, but that rarely happens if you follow the manufacturer's change and quality guidelines. On many cars, you can get an actual real-time oil pressure reading with an OBD test tool. Good luck, hopefully, it is a simple fix, and is in the montoring circuit, and not an engine fault. A bad ground or electrical connection could cause this, either in the dash, or in the engine compartment. They can sometimes be a pain to isolate. Corrosion on a connector or a connector that is not fully seated could do it too.
  • Shipo - Thanks for the advice. Apparently the caliper was "wrapped"(?) and was causing my steering to vibrated a lot. I just moved here (MA) from the west coast and didn't really have time to search for a good shop... In any case, I got it fix now, but certainly will not go back specially to this dealer - Gallery BMW of Norwood MA. Not to mention poor service.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,273
    Apparently the caliper was "wrapped"(?) and was causing my steering to vibrated a lot.

    Do you mean warped? I've owned, wrenched on, and tracked Bimmers since 1983 and you almost never see a warped caliper on a track toy, never mind a 100% street driven car. I guess that anything is possible, but it sounds to me like the dealer's primary goal was to flush a large sum of money out of your wallet. A fair price for BMW rotors, pads, and one caliper shouldn't exceed $830- and that's for a 540i. OEM quality aftermarket equivalents would run around $355-$600, tops.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • I was just an an indy shop yesterday and they told me I will need front brakes soon- said it would be about $300. I had the front brakes replaced at the dealer in 2006 and it was $435. (I have a 2000 528i.)
  • can anyone tell me which are the best low profile tires to put on my 2002 525i ?
    Right now I have nexen 235/45ZR17 radial N3000 94W, it also has the steptronic,,which I use alot, and sport pkg,,My tires are ready to be changed a quick response would be much appreciated,,,thank you
  • 530ir1150r530ir1150r Posts: 263
    It has been a while since I have posted data; currently I have 154,900 miles on my 2002 530i Sport 5 speed, 26.6 MPG at an average speed of 50.5 mph. Total maintenance costs are $13,159.22, $0.105 per mile.
  • jb_shinjb_shin Posts: 357
    I just replaced front pads on my 2000 528iT with Stoptech pads, which was less than $100 shipped. It took about 1 hr taking my time. If you can do oil change on your car, then you can change pads. It was the first brake job on this car (~52,000 miles) so I left the rotors alone for now.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,273
    Even though Munich wouldn't approve, you can almost always go through two sets of pads before you need to change the rotors- on a 100% street driven car, anyway...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • loupaloupa Posts: 7
    Does anyone know the website where I might obtain 2011 BMW 535i prices and spec information addition to Edmunds?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    Well, you've basically done the equivalent of walking into McDonald's and asking where else you can buy a hamburger. :)

    Instead, you might try one of the popular search engines.


    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    I love that site. :)


    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • Firebird_EOUFirebird_EOU Posts: 250
    Let us know what mpg you get out of the transmission on highway, etc...
  • I recently purchased a 2010 535i. It has virtually every option, except the lane-departure system. Can that be added to the car, and what is it likely to cost? Will the BMW dealer do that, or is that purely an aftermarket addition?
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    My guess is that it would be quite expensive to add that feature. WOrth a try asking, though. The software in the car would need to be updated to accommodate it, along with adding the sensors and actuators to the brakes and steering. Lots of parts, that probably don't exist on your car. I'm not sure where the sensors are, but guess in the mirrors. That'd mean changing the mirrors, maybe the wiring harness, and lots of other bits.

    Good luck, I doubt it will happen, but I'd be curious the response you get from the dealer if you do ask.
  • Thanks. Maybe I'll ask but if you're right, it probably too expensive to undertake. I can live without it, I'm sure.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,273

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 18,647
    ...Lame Spam at that.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • loupaloupa Posts: 7
    have a 2011 535i with 1100 miles on it. No sports package. The car pulls to the right all the time in all driving conditions.
    I took it to the BMW dealer, they checked out the car. It meets all BMW specs. Tires are OK along with TP.
    The BMW service manager stated they do not have a fix, and they have elevated the problem to BMW engineering. Also I have heard many new 2011 535i have similar problems?????
    I am waiting for an answer at this time.
    Does anyone out there have a new 2011 535i and has similar problmes?
    Could the problem be with the new electric steering?
    Beside this problem the car is great, gas mileage is super.

  • bbrimmerbbrimmer Posts: 32
    I'm torn as I have found a 2008 535xi with 39K miles and it's a CPO. My question is that Consumer Reports has the 2008 535 on their "avoid list" No indication as to i or xi. opinions? Should I look for a 528xi instead? Thanks
  • pcmanpcman Posts: 8
    Im convinced Consumer Reports has some kind of agenda. Twice in the past we've bought cars they 'recommended' and seen the same car on the 'avoid' list a year or 2 later. Same thing went for a TV and a washer/ dryer. Not to mention that none of these products gave us any trouble. I long ago cancelled my subscription because of these boneheads.

    I bought a 2008 535 w/ 28k miles about a year ago (not a cpo). After driving the Infiniti, Acura, Audi, and Lexus there was really no comparison in how much better the BMW drives. Knock on wood, I absolutely love this car and have no trouble with it. I bought the 535 because i wanted something fast and i drive it pretty hard. If you drop back to the 528 you'll certainly get a decent car but its probably going to perform about like the other cars in it's class. Did they say why to avoid this car?
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