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Volvo S60



  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 24,356
    Unless you are taking it to the autobahn, h rated is more than enough. I assume you want all season. I had an older model of the Continental Extremes on my S70 T5 and thought they were great. I've never found Michelins to live up to their name. Always disappointed. I've had good and bad luck with Yokohamas. Running a set of Advan Neovas on my GTI for the summer. I like them quite a bit so far.

    Look on tire rack. I plugged in your size and limited the choices to any all season tire with V rating or higher. There are 25 to choose from. Cheapest being Sumitomo HTR A/S. I had a set of Sumitomo summer tires on my G35X for a while. They were quite good. Wore like iron. Very grippy. The Kumho Ecsta ASXs aren't bad, either. I used those as my 3-season tires. They weren't however, good in the snow. Quite lousy, in fact. But if, like you say, snow is not a major concern, the worth taking a look.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • montanakymontanaky Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 2.4T S60 that has an intermittently flickering instrument panel. All the dials go dead for a second, then come back on normal. Also, the turn signals seem to not click or show any arrows when I signal left or right. Again these are intermittent. I also see a SRS check airbag message.

    Any hints on what could be the cause? Any way to fix without going to a dealer?

  • scotts07scotts07 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response back. After days and days of research including TireRac as well as a couple Volvo Forums, local tire stores etc. The tire that kept coming up was the Continental Extreme Contact DWS. That's what I'm getting an anxious to try them. Thanks again.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hi poeti18: Thanks for the FYI...someday I hope I can do the Euro-thing!

    A couple of other thoughts... I can understand angryvolvoowner's rage over his tire issue, but I agree with gbrozen...not fair to condemn the entire vehicle or the manufacturer for one stupid design flaw. As I suggested in an earlier reply on the tire issue, what if your wife or girlfriend was the one driving the Volvo with no spare, late at night on a deserted road, and flatted? You would lose a lot of points on that one. I would NEVER drive a vehicle with just a can of fix-a-flat...completely stupid idea, and I trust that Volvo will get a lot of nasty feedback and take care of this problem immediately. Otherwise, get a real spare even if it takes half the trunk space!

    Finally, wondering if anyone can provide some suggestions for a CEL issue on my 2001 S60 non-turbo. The scan code is "ECM-4201: Three way catalytic converter efficiency, power deterioration". Can anybody decipher this one and let me know what the solution might be? Could the converter
    be bad? Thanks to anyone that might have some ideas here. vwdawg
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 24,356
    it certainly seems to be telling you it is the cat. However, I'm not so sure it can actually test it. I'd be more inclined to replace the O2 sensor first.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,437
    To each his or her own as to what is a stupid idea. Volvo made a call, and based on probabilities, they are likely right. Yes, who wants to be on a road late at night with a flat? However, flat tires are so improbable these days that, while possible, the chances of having one in your life now is almost non-existent.

    And what with cell phones and included auto assistance, the old time flat tire scenario is not the same. My mother tells about getting a flat way out in the middle of nowhere--miles to any town or even house. Some guys driving by stopped as she had gotten the car jacked up, but could not loosen the lug bolts. A big guy came over and said to her, "Mighty lonely out here." Then he changed her tire and wouldn't take a nickel for doing it.

    Most times, things work out one way or another. Maybe some day somebody somewhere will gather the data to show whether or not the lack of a spare in this otherwise wonderful car put more lives in jeopardy than justified by the savings of not carrying around an item that in most cases is destined never to be used and will some day be added to a landfill. But of course the spare is an option. For those who want or need one, order it. And bottom line, enjoy the car.
  • kbs60kbs60 Posts: 1
    Volvo S60- shifter trigger cracked. Fixed with bike tire inner tube.
    Good easy cheap fix. First duct tape broken plastic piece to keep spring from protruding. I used the inner tire tube from my abandoned mountain bicycle. Cut a section about 4 inches long. Turn it inside out, more uniform color, and pull over shifter. If you don’t have a bike you can buy an wide inner tube (not 10 speed tube, too narrow) for about $6.00.
  • rezrez Posts: 41
    Hello, I have a 2004 2.4 S60, and am in the need of replacing the catalytic converter. Right after starting the car, theres a rattling noise coming from the bottom of the engine. AA trip to my trusted mechanic revealed that the glass part of the catalytic converter is broken. Luckily there is no warning light coming on yet.

    A search on the OEM part returned a price of about $1100 for the part. I was wondering if anyone out there has found a suitable more economical replacement.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 24,356
    huh. I wonder why it is so much more expensive than any of the turbo models. Well, best I found in my 5-min search was about $600 from

    Another option you might want to consider is visiting an exhaust shop like meineke. They might be able to custom fit a generic cat for much less.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,437
    2012 S60 R appears to be getting excellent reviews.,
  • rezrez Posts: 41
    Thanks qbrozen. Any other websites you recommend for Volvo parts? I wonder how these 3rd party converters will hold up. There are many brands on ebay too! :confuse:
  • I have a 04 volvo S60r, when the car is stopped and then on accelaration there is a one time clunk from the front end. Ive had alot of older trucks in the past and this problem is similiar to a u joint going out. I didnt see a u joint on the car, Any ideas? I have checked the sway bar links, all cv axles are new and I just replaced the whole top of the coil springs on the front, barring, spring plate ect...... still pops.
  • We also had a flat tire at 70 mph at 9 PM in a remote area of Rt 66. Volvo was quick to respond with a tow, but they brought a flat bed tow truck, when I drove the car up the flat bed, it ruined the rim and cut the ABS Brake line, cost me $1050 to fix. Car had 6000 miles. Tow driver said that it was the third Volvo he has towed since the car has no spare.
  • same problem, 2012 s60 T5 with 6000 miles, flat tire for no apparent reason while travelling at 70 mph. light came on, "Tire pressure low" we pulled off on the shoulder, tire was low, but not flat, tried to get to the next exit, finally tire flat, pulled over. Called Volvo , they sent a tow truck in 55 minutes, remote part of VA Sunday night 9 pm. Flat bed tow truck arrived, had to drive the car on to the back, which ruined the rim and broke ABS line, cost me $1050 from dealer to fix. This is my first flat tire in over 30 years.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 24,356
    why in the world did YOU drive the car onto the truck?? That would be a serious violation of the tow truck's insurance policy, not to mention, as you found out, it put YOU at liability for the damage, when it should have been the towing company's responsibility.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,437
    Furthermore, why wouldn't you use the can of fix-a-flat in the trunk if the tire was low rather than flat? If you had, then driving on it may not have flattened it by the next exit. Just saying.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hi All: My understanding is that not only Volvo, but some of the other manufacturers are using this "no spare tire" crap on new vehicles. I think they are using a "more storage space" rationalization, but I would suspect that it's really a "let's generate a few additional profit dollars". Very disappointing, especiallly from Volvo with their time honored safety mentality. I don't believe that this 'fix a flat" BS represents safety in any sense of the word. I love my two S60s, and it will be some time before I look into buying a newer one, but if I EVER end up with a vehicle with no spare, the first thing I will do is purchase a spare rim and tire....not taking any chances with this miserable fix a flat baloney. vwdawg
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,437
    The spare tire is an option. So order it when you get your new S60. Eliminating the spare doesn't just reduce costs, it reduces weight. I have been driving for longer than most people have been alive, and I have had a flat or two. But with almost all of my 29 vehicles, I never had occasion to remove the spare from its storage. Those spare tires and wheels add up to a lot of weight carted around for 40 some years. I fully understand that a spare may be a bit of insurance that most people might want to have anyway. But given my experience, I am willing to go along with Volvo's plan. I love my T6 that much.
  • I Currently have over 4,000 miles on my 2012 s60 t5 with 5 year maint. free. I was a bit suprised that the Volvo dealer stated that volvo wouldn't pay for the first oil change until 7,500 miles. The volvo maint. supervisor stated that if your puchased the car (which I did), then you should pay for an oil change at 3 or 4000 miles. I'm wondering if waiting till 7,500 miles would be too long and may cause damage? I'm hoping someone has insight into this matter. Most of my mileage is city driving in NYC. Is volvo saving themselves money or is this normal oil change practice? :confuse:
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    7500 miles for first oil change is fine - and it is, after all, what Volvo say; never mind what someone else may say. Here in Europe we seem to be allowed much longer oil-change intervals with the same engines. My Volvo S60 D5 has an oil change every 18000 miles or annually whichever comes first - and that's an '06 model. It's first oil-change was at 18000 miles. Life expectancy for the engine is somewhere the far side of 250k miles. USA oil-change intervals seem to be locked into the era of non-synthetic oils and are a money maker for all concerned but bear little resemblance to reality or actual need.

    Could go on but need to go out.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 24,356
    7500 is completely normal these days as far as "manufacturer recommended schedule" and it is all the free maintenance will pay for, of course.

    If it was a car I purchased, I agree with the service advisor, and I would pay to get an interim oil change. However, that's just for this first time. I'd pay at 3500-4k, then get the freebie at 7500 and continue on a 7500-interval after that. But I'm a bit anal about my cars. Most people would say 7500 for the first is fine.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    First oil change at 3 - 4k achieves nothing other than increasing someone's profit. Modern engine design & build processes do not leave lots of particles in the engine and metallurgy and lubricants are light years better than they used to be. Biggest problem with new engines is getting rings/bores to "bed-in" properly due to manufacturers using full-synthetic lubes on the line and most owners not knowing how to run-in engines anymore. Europe uses the same engines, and lubricants, as you get in Volvo, VW, Audi, BMW etc etc but typically have oil-changes specified by the manufacturers at 18 - 20,000 miles - gasoline or diesel - and we are not destroying engines as a result. The only caveat is that you must use the correct viscosity and specs as defined by the vehicle manufacturer. "Cheap and near enough" probably isn't either in the long run. Why would you spend £40k on a lovely new whatever and then try to save a couple of Dollars on the hardest-working component...........engine oil.

    The whole short oil-change thing is a racket designed to separate consumers from their Dollars. One of the very few areas in which Europe is ahead of the USA.

    End of mini-rant.
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,437
    On some VW models here, they specify that you must wait until 10K or more for the first change, to let things seat properly. Oil changes at 3K are only advised if you drive like 3K miles a year in very short trips. Otherwise, you are wasting oil, which none of us ought to do anymore. Get it changed at 7,500, which these days is actually conservative, and ignore the dealer bleatings. If there was damage to be done by following manufacturers recommendations, they wouldn't be warrantying their cars for 5 years.
  • i have a 01 S60 T which has a rought idle, but now when the idle is rough the power breaks don't work. once the car engine smooths out the breaks work fine. any suggestions?
  • moretjmoretj Posts: 13
    i know this post is after the fact but recently replaced the Driver Information Module(DIM) on my S60 (225,000 kms) as the turn signals would either work fully, partially or not at all. In speaking with the dealership they advised there testing detected a found an interanl electrical fault with the DIM. I took there word for it and asked if anything else could be done to repair the problem. They said no as this functionality was controlled by the DIM and the entire system needed replacing. Total cost $1250. Just wanted to get feedback from the board if this course of action sounds reasonable from the dealership perspective or was another fix possible at a lower cost. Thanks.
  • will3357will3357 Posts: 1
    My wife drives a 2002 Volvo S60 with what I believe is an electrical short issue. When she stops at stop lights, sometimes the gauges jsut start going haywire, pinging up and down. I drove the car and noticed that if I unclick the drivers seatbelt and then reconnect it, the problem fixes itself. Summing it all up, I attribute the issue to a short in the seatbelt sensor wiring. Any idea where I should dig into the wiring or the seatbelt itself to try to fix the issue?
  • mikey38mikey38 Posts: 141
    Just test drove an S60 T5 yesterday. What a nice, nice ride! I was very impressed with the quality of the vehicle, acceleration and overall handling. I drove a 2012 328i a couple of weeks ago and I think the S60 was a bit better least for me.
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,437
    My 2011 S60 T6 has so far exceeded my expectations. No mechanical or electronic glitches in almost 24k miles. The T5 with 17 inch wheels should ride better and have less highway tire noise. But at lower speeds they are both very quiet.
  • mikey38mikey38 Posts: 141
    What kind of highway/overall mileage are you getting with the T6?
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